I like this bowl of shallot oil noodles in Shanghai, although it is a bowl of vegetarian noodles, it has the feeling of eating big meat.
The first time I ate scallion oil mixed noodles, it was in Shanghai, a long time ago, led the team to Shanghai to shoot the food documentary "Search fresh record", got up early to eat at a small noodle restaurant on the side of the vegetable market, looked at the sign on the wall and did not know what to eat, an old aunt saw that I was a foreigner, and introduced me to me, "Oh yo, Nong knows how to cut, the bowl of green onions, the taste is old, fragrant..."
So, i asked for a bowl. Watching a handful of thin noodles fished from the steaming pot of boiling water into the bowl, I saw the onion oil soy sauce poured on the table, the oily thin noodles stained with sauce red, and the lazy plate of the smooth and smooth silk lay in the bowl, like a beautiful woman's hair bun, but the top was dotted with a clump of burnt yellow onion neck, yellow-brown green onion leaves, a few red open ocean sea rice, like a pearl-like look.
Stirred, this full head of pearls will sway and scatter in this green silky noodles, before the entrance, the aroma will come to the nose, pick a strand, suck a sip, it will slide into the mouth, the wheat aroma of the noodles, the sauce of soy sauce, the onion aroma of onion oil, the fresh aroma of sea rice, the aftertaste and a slight sweet fragrance, these five flavors, jumping in the oily noodles, like plum blossoms in the tip of the tongue teasing.
With two slices of vegetarian chicken, a bowl of seaweed soup to eat, a bowl of scallion oil noodles that look like a small family of jasper, suddenly, it becomes a variety of styles, feminine, taunting.
It's still unforgettable.
These days, once I went to the vegetable market in the early morning, I happened to see the emerald green chives with water spirits, the soil of the shallot whiskers seemed to still carry the moisture of the morning dew, and I remembered that there was also sea rice and dried scallops brought back from Weihai Rongcheng at home, and I thought of a bowl of scallion oil mixed noodles. So, it was hungry. So, buy a handful of thin noodles, a handful of chives, go home, cook, and make a bowl to eat.
The soul of the shallot oil noodles is a jar of shallot oil with a rich flavor of green onion.
Onion, is to use small chives, Zhangqiu has a kind of Zhangqiu scallion called "big sycamore", thick as a child's arm, long nearly a zhang, sweet and crispy, fragrant onion, do onion roasted sea cucumber, roll roast duck single cake, all good, but do shallot oil mixed noodles, Shanghai's "food meal" teacher said, "It is best to use chives, long and not inching, the white part of the onion is vaguely a bit of chicken leg shape, the root is fat and bulging, along the green onion all the way to the tip, called chicken leg onion, the taste is spicy, spicy but not spicy", such a small chives fried out of the onion oil is fragrant enough.
She also said that the oil, can not use the taste is too strong, afraid of covering the small chives clear like a small family jasper-like onion fragrance, sesame oil peanut oil ah best not to use, with a little light vegetarian oil is good, but I feel that not enough oil aroma, just add a little lard into, lard, and afraid of cold after condensation into a white lump of scenery, it is not good to add more, winter, lard vegetable oil 1 and a half 8 10%, summer, can be a little more, three seven ratio is good. This is what a chef friend told me, and the same is true when I cook at home, fragrant and healthy.
Peel off the old leaves of the shallots, wash and dry them, cut off the whiskers of the shallots, cut the tender white shallots into long sections, and cut the slender emerald green shallots into long sections, first put down the shallot whiskers, boil out the shallots, and discard them. When the onion is white, fried yellowish, the green onion leaves, continue to boil, and to be precise, it can not be called fried onion oil, it must be said to be boiled onion oil, because the flame should be small, the oil temperature should be low, and the onion aroma of the small chives should be slowly poured into the oil, slowly and slowly, the green onion fragrance will spread wantonly, and the shallots will change from emerald green to yellow-green, and in the end, it will become yellow-brown, just like from the green onion years to the elderly, from qingxiu feminine to the old pearl yellow, but at this time the onion oil is fragrant. Suddenly remembered that the roasted tea is also, from the green leaves, into the dark tea strips, but the tea is fragrant, suddenly, I remembered a song of the old wolf "Beauty" to come...
Add a handful of sea rice, a handful of Yaozhu, sauté to make it dry and delicious, and add some umami flavor to this green onion. This sea rice and dried scallops are not used directly, it is good to soak in warm water through the umami, if you are more exquisite, you must soak the dried sea rice in aged shao wine, and then steam through the basket, it is really good enough.
Soy sauce is not directly with what taste is very fresh and raw smoke perfunctory, Shanghai's old bo head brother said is very reasonable: "Raw soy sauce is somewhat beany, so it should be rolled to remove, so most of the soy sauce will be sour, so rely on sugar to remedy." "I, while rolling the soy sauce, added some of the remaining dried scallops and sea rice, or for a "fresh" word.
Start another pot, add a pinch of salt, the water is boiling, cook the noodles, add salt, just make the noodles more smooth. The noodles, round thin noodles are the best, and they are more compatible with shallot oil.
When the noodles are cooked, find a fine porcelain bowl with a lotus pattern, put it in the bowl, two spoonfuls of shallot oil, a spoonful of soy sauce, pour on the noodles, sandwich a chopstick boiled scorched yellow brown shallots, stirred, each noodle is dyed with golden light oily sauce brown, mixed with dried scallop powder, sea rice ruddy, look at it and want to eat. Already pressed can not hold back, a big bite to eat, noodles are soaked in onion oil to make the green onion fragrant, straight to the heart, eat their own eyebrows and smile, the mood is as bright as spring, a bowl is not enough, and go out to buy noodles, below, pouring onion oil soy sauce, three bowls of contentment, "Oh yo, fragrant to come..."
This small jar of shallot oil, the next few days, whether it is eating noodles, bibimbap, are indispensable to it, is to make a soup, pour a spoonful when out of the pot, but also fragrant through the nose, remembering when I was a child with a sugar jar to save a few sugar cubes, at night in the bed secretly a piece, that sweet. That kind of happiness, like this bowl of shallot oil mixed noodles and this jar of shallot oil brought to me, is very similar... It's a lot like the taste of stealing...
Suddenly I remembered a word, spring light.
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