There is tradition in the middle of the miscellaneous
Rough in the middle of the exquisite
Retain the taste of Beijing
Passing on the culture of gastronomy
Food culture in Beijing
Same as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace
All are indispensable to the city
Important signs and cultural symbols
And rooted in this land
"Beijing Snack"
It is the food culture of Beijing
An integral part
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
Beijing snacks
"Bean Juice" and "Scorch Circle"
Bean juice
Bean juice, all over the world, only Beijing has.
Many people have eaten it, and it is eaten with spicy pickle shreds and charred rings. Loved ones regard them as treasures, and if they don't drink them for a few days, they will be hungry, and those who are tired of them will avoid them.
(Image source: Beijing Fangzhiguan.) Infringement is deleted)
Strange to say, many tourists obviously have a look of disgust, but they have to taste it before they stop. Pinching his nose, taking a sip, his whole face immediately wrinkled, and said, "What is this?!" Swill water flavor! ”
In fact, no one forced them to drink, it was completely their own curiosity. It's like, when you come to Beijing, without drinking a mouthful of bean juice, you can't count as having tasted this water and soil.
Ma Haifang, a famous modern calligrapher and painter, "Selling Bean Juice" (Source: Beijing Fangzhiguan. Infringement is deleted)
Objectively speaking, bean juice is actually the scrap for the production of mung bean starch. Boiling bean juice, there are also tricks. Can't boil up the pot. After the pot is opened, it is easy to layer, and the bottom becomes hemp tofu.
Now some restaurants sell bean juice, thick and mushy, that is, to the stick noodles. In the past, it was all up to the master of boiling bean juice to master the heat, the bean juice was not thick and not thick, and he drank a bowl while it was hot, and when he boarded, he sweated thoroughly, and his appetizer was defeated.
In the shop that sold bean juice in the past, you can still hear a shout from old Beijing: "Bean juice is boiling." ”
Old Beijing street vendors walking the streets (Source: Beijing Fangzhiguan.) Infringement is deleted)
The history of Beijingers drinking bean juice is not short. Far from it, the Qing Dynasty definitely had it. In the 1980s, a book was published called "Beijing Past Talks", which mentioned that the Qianlong Emperor once sent people to learn bean juice. This shows that there is bean juice in the Qing Palace. Why send someone to learn? Description likes.
Ordinary people are more sought after for bean juice, it is cheap, unique taste, as long as the first time to drink, basically have this "addiction".
In our food, sweet, spicy, salty, smelly, but everything that can cause sensory stimulation to people, most of them will form a certain "addiction", which explains why people who drink bean juice say that it is sour and smelly, and people who love it will go all the way to drink and enjoy it.
Boiled bean juice (Image source: Beijing Fangzhiguan.) Infringement is deleted)
The magic of bean juice, a sour, sour with a strange smell of rot. The second is hot, can only suck and drink, can not be poured. Three in the spicy of the pickles, the tip of the tongue is numb. The hotter the drink, the hotter the drink, and finally the sweat.
This is the "Bean Juice Sutra" of the fans of bean juice. Mr. Wang Zengqi said in "Bean Juice" that he took the bean juice and drank it all, and he wanted to have another bowl.
People who love bean juice are rich or poor, sitting down for this mouthful, which also makes those small stalls selling bean juice slowly call out their names.
"Bean Juice Erding" is one of them. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, The Ding clan opened a bean juice stall in front of the North Fire Temple on Xihuashi Road, and gradually, let the surrounding old Beijingers "recognize" it. With the change of the times, the catering industry has become more and more standardized, and "Bean Juice Erding" has become the "Jinxin Bean Juice Shop" that has become famous.
(Image source: Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center.) Infringement is deleted)
Those old neighbors who moved everywhere from young to old, followed the stalls into the store, everyone sat down, picked up the bowl, and the noisy and familiar Beijing dialect and old words in their ears were like returning to the past and returning home.
The passage of time, what remains unchanged is human feelings, is this taste.
Focal circle
Jiaoquan'er is an authentic Beijing snack. From the pronunciation, there is a requirement, you have to bring a child's pronunciation.
Jiao'er's status in the city is equivalent to recognizing the relics of his hometown. Of course, it has to play with bean juice.
In fact, the practice of the circle is the same as that of the steamed bun, that is, the shape is different.
Moreover, it is very likely that the jiaoquan is actually the appearance of the steamed bun in the Song Dynasty.
The same was true of the Ming Dynasty. Mr. Li Shizhen wrote in the book: "Into the salt, the rope twisted into the shape of a ring, fried in oil." ”
I don't quite understand why there is a record of the focal circle in a medical classic. It seems that gluttony is a "disease".
(Image source: Grand Canal Culture Online.) Infringement is deleted)
In fact, the scorched circle does not have to be paired with bean juice, with horseshoe baked cake sandwich, crushed to eat, no problem.
Eating scorched circles is to enjoy a crisp and raw energy. Therefore, the name is jiaoquan, but it can't really be fried. After the explosion, the scorched circle is blackened, and it is bitter to eat.
An excellent burnt circle with golden color, evenly lathered and crispy and oily. If you want to say a bite and cut your mouth, you are not qualified.
It is said that the Qianlong Emperor specially sent people to go deep into the people, go to the grass-roots level, and learn the practice of bean juice. This bean juice has entered the palace, and 80% of the jiaohuan children have also followed them to the emperor's table.
The emperor must eat the newly fried scorched circle, but the scorched circle must stand the test and remain soft for several days. In the forty-nine cities of Beijing at that time, the most famous person in the fried scorch circle was Master Wu, and now it is not clear who is the first.
Generally, where bean juice is sold, there are scorched circles. Come on a plate of spicy pickle shreds, two scorched circles are a bowl of bean juice. Sour, sweet, spicy and salty, this is the taste of life.
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
That's it
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
Beijing FangzhiGuan
Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center
Grand Canal Culture Online
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