Jiaoquan - Beijingers love to eat "little oil ghost"
What is the focal coil? What the hell is it like? What tastes? People who haven't eaten it naturally don't know.
Scorch circle, there is also a nickname one by one "little oil ghost". It is an authentic and ancient Beijing-style snack, and it is not small in name. It also occupies a place in the list of "Thirteen Best Beijing Flavor Snacks". The color is dark yellow, the oil is bright and smooth, and the volume is small and delicate.
It looks like a bracelet, similar to a western donut, and also a bit like the "Qu Yuan Bun" of the Northern Dragon Boat Festival, but in small proportions. It tastes caramelized and crispy and has a unique flavor.
According to legend, the jiaoquan was originally a thing in the imperial dining room of the Qing Dynasty Palace. It was the Emperor's food. Later, it was somehow passed down and became a very popular food.
Since the popularity of the focal circle in the folk, regardless of age and gender, men and women, young and old, all love to eat, few people say that they hate to eat, unless they are picky and picky. The coke ring can not only be used as a separate snack, but the old Beijing also uses the coke circle as a side dish. They will put some burnt rings in it while eating the burnt cake. Even when the big guys drink bean juice in the morning, they can't forget the scorch circle and often eat it.
It can be seen how popular the focal coil is, and there is its shadow everywhere.
Speaking of which, the focus ring is a fried food, but it is very distinctive. One of the advantages of this snack is that after it is done, it can be stored for up to ten days and a half months, no problem at all, not only does not deteriorate, but also crispy and crusty. So, it can be used as dry food for going out into the wild.
However, the production of the focal coil is quite troublesome, because the labor efficiency is too low, and the sale is not expensive, so many food restaurants are reluctant to spend this work to make. So, in some busy seasons, there will be a period of disconnection. Beijingers can't eat this thing, and their hearts are anxious.
For those old Beijingers who are old, they probably know that there was a famous "Jiaoquan Junwang" in the past, who is a first-class master of the jiaoquan and has been remembered by people.
He was originally a worker of "Nan Lai Shun", and later made this focus circle, but unfortunately he has passed away. The focal rings he made, the general master can not be compared, people fried out of the scorching rings, each one is brownish yellow, the size is appropriate, special crisp, delicious. How crispy is it? It is said that the focal circle he made rested on the table and shattered as soon as it was touched, without any hardness. It may be a bit exaggerated, but it shows that people's focal coils are unique and really cattle.
Later, Beijing's Jiaoquan was mainly popular with the snack bars of HuguoSi Temple and the Qunfang snack bar, and at the end of the 20th century, it was rated as "Chinese Famous Snack".
So, how did this focal coil come about? What is its origin? It has a long history. It is said that as early as the Song Dynasty, there was such a thing, and the great Song Dynasty writer Su Dongpo once wrote a snack poem:
Knead your hands into a jade number, and fry them in green oil to make them tender and yellow.
Night spring sleep is not heavy, press the beauty wrapped around the arm gold
No one can guess that this poem is about the focal circle! It is said that this is the first product of China's "advertising poetry". During the Ming Dynasty, the focal circle was favored by medical experts. Li Shizhen specifically recorded in the "Compendium of Materia Medica" that "when there is less salt, twist the rope into the shape of a circle of thin tendons, and fry it again." ”
This is how to do Beijing focal circle. A medical book documenting herbal medicine actually includes folk snacks. It can be seen that this focal coil has another therapeutic effect, at least a unique food.
So, how is this focal coil made? The process is actually quite complicated.
When making, the first step is to put the refined salt and alkali noodles in a basin, gently crush, add warm water, and grind them with a mallet. During the mixing process, the basin emits a "buzzing" sound, and bubbles half a meter large can be evenly raised to meet the requirements.
In the second step, remove 1/10 of the solution from the basin and leave for later. Pour the flour into a bowl and mix with the solution to form a dough. Take 1/2 of the remaining solution, sprinkle on the dough, knead well, fold in half, cover with a damp cloth and apply for about a quarter of an hour.
Remove the coverscloth, dip your hands in the remaining solution, press the dough for a few minutes, turn over for a few more minutes, still fold the dough in half, cover it with a damp cloth, and apply it for another quarter of an hour. Apply a layer of peanut oil to the surface of the dough, knead again, and fold in half for a quarter of an hour.
Then, place the dough on the oiled plate, flatten it, and draw some crosshairs on the dough with a small frying knife so that the dough can move faster. After folding it in half, apply a thin layer of oil to the surface of the dough and then take a full hour to complete.
In the third step, the dough must be cut into strips 3 cm wide and 20 cm long with a small frying knife, the oil face up, placed horizontally on the edge of the cutting plate, and flattened by hand. Then, press one end of the paper tape on the table with your left hand and stretch the other end outward with your right hand to form a thin strip.
Then, with a knife, split the long strips every two centimeters wide into a small blank. Then take two small doses and stack them horizontally, with the oil facing the oil surface. Press a groove in the middle of the small potion with the fingers of both hands, and then use a small frying knife to cut a slit along the groove, which is the blank.
The fourth step, first, is to pour peanut oil into a pot, heat it to 60 degrees on high heat, stretch the dough one by one, and fry it in a frying pan. The dough will soon float in the hot oil, immediately use the long chopsticks to turn over, insert the chopsticks into the seam, gently hit the ends of the seam back and forth, widen the seam, and then use the chopsticks to wrap the seam, draw a few circles on the chopsticks, and the dough will become a circle. At this time, we have to quickly turn it over, at least four times each, and blow up the sides of the circle into a dark yellow, and this is successful.
However, although it is delicious, it cannot be eaten too much, because Beijingers use scorch rings to make breakfast, but the calories and fat are high. It is best to eat twice a week. In addition, after eating a scorched breakfast, the lunch and dinner of the day should be as light as possible, and do not eat fried, fried or fried food. In addition, it is best to pair with soy milk to supplement enough protein.
In addition, although this focal circle can be eaten by the general population, it is best not to eat diabetes, high blood lipids, and pregnant women; some people with weak digestion, the elderly, and children cannot eat more. This thing is too greasy, too long, can make people's memory decline, and even accelerate the aging of the human body. Therefore, eat this stuff with caution.
Drinking bean juice and eating charred rings, usually with a pickle, must be cut very thinly. Pickles are generally used in the summer is amaranth blue, and the production of this pickle, quite exquisite, must be marinated with old salty water, and then cut into thin wires, poured with chili oil and mixed well, so that it is swallowed with the scorched circle, and has a different taste.
Those who have a good taste do not feel that a bowl of bean juice, a few charred rings, plus a dish of spicy pickle shreds, eat sour, spicy, sweet, salty, the five tastes account for four tastes, only no bitter taste, is the ideal taste of people's life
In the shops in old Beijing that make focal coils, the most famous one should be Wu Dianyuan of the "XingshengGuan". It is said that in the 1930s, Master Wu initially made a living from an ordinary porridge shop, making porridge bean juice at the same time, he also made this coke ring, because they were the old Beijinger's set menu, so the coke circle also became his main snack.
After that, there was a "jiaoquan king" in the southern city of Beijing. His name was Wang Wenqi. The focal coils he made have become a highlight of Beijing snacks. In addition, in the past, the focus circle was more famous, and there was also the Snack Bar of Longfu Temple in Dongcheng, and the master Ma Qingcai in the shop was even more skilled, which was a must.
However, after the masters of the past passed away one by one, there were almost no heirs in Beijing who made focal coils. It is difficult to find a first-class master to make the same focal circle as before. It seems that with the development of social science and technology civilization, not everything is developing, but some things and technologies are retreating.
The key is to do the focal coil, and the producer should pay attention to it and be careful. Today it is all machine-made, and it is not easy to see pure handmade, let alone elaborate handmade
Therefore, on the street today, if you want to eat the authentic scorch circle, it is difficult. You can taste it casually, and those "diligent" in beijing can hardly blow up the focal circle that makes people give a thumbs up. Most of the focal rings they make are really the so-called "scorched" circles, scorched black, chewed up, hard and skinny, and the taste is strange, let alone what is delicious.
It seems that many old Beijing still miss the authentic Beijing focal circle on the streets in the past. This rare "Beijing Thirteen Bests", if more chefs work hard to carry forward this traditional snack, everyone will be blessed.
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