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Guobo Guanzhan | Traces the Origin of "China on the Tip of the Tongue"

"Hanshu Li Shi Qi Biography" has clouds: "The king takes the people as the sky, and the people take food as the sky", the Chinese under the agricultural civilization have the ultimate pursuit of "food", regarded as an important pleasure in life, between the soup and the meal, but also reflect the chinese people's life wisdom and life dignity.

The "Exhibition of Ancient Chinese Food Culture", which is being exhibited at the National Museum, uses more than 240 pieces (sets) of cultural relics to reproduce what the ancient Chinese ate, how to eat, what are the traditional etiquette of eating, and thus bred and derived a series of concepts and wisdom that affected the development process of Chinese civilization.

A bowl of rice, a dish, a pot of wine, and a cup of tea on the people's table are all exquisite.

In the display case, the glassware is wrapped with black lacquered rice grains, which are carbonized rice from the Shangshan ruins in Zhejiang Province, which have lasted for 10,000 years. In 2006, archaeologists discovered carbonized rice at the Shangshan site in Zhejiang Province, starting a journey to find the source of the Chinese nation's agricultural civilization. There are also knowledge points on the display board: millet and millet, that is, millet and rhubarb rice. Millet is very important for early Chinese, legend has it that Shennong's pioneering farming and Cangjie characters are related to millet, the pottery granary excavated from the Luoyang Yaogou Han Tomb has the word "Su Wanshi" on it, and the Shaanxi Mizhi Eastern Han Portrait Stone Cow Cultivation Chart depicts mature millet ears. In the Book of Poetry, it is often referred to as Huang Ji, which extends the feelings of home and country of "the sorrow of separation".

Guobo Guanzhan | Traces the Origin of "China on the Tip of the Tongue"

(Shang) bronze axe

Chinese table is indispensable to delicious dishes, and the chefs in the north and south have thousands of means to make the dishes have different advantages and flavors, so that the meal is full of life wisdom. Combined with pottery pigs, pottery sheep, pottery fish, pottery melons, pottery peppers and other cultural relics, a series of "delicacies on the tip of the tongue" are presented in front of the viewers, fireworks rise, and historical passages are told - a bowl of mutton soup triggered the battle of the Destruction of the Zhongshan Kingdom, a "Dragon Yellow Fish" interpreted Liu Beisun Shangxiang's love tidbits, and a plate of "braised meat" pulled out the story of the great writer Su Dongpo flood relief.

Why does a bowl of mutton soup connect with the fate of a country? It turned out that during the Warring States period, the monarch of the Zhongshan Kingdom set up a banquet to entertain the celebrities, but unfortunately the mutton soup was not enough, and the famous scholar Sima Zi did not drink it, so he ran to persuade the King of Chu to attack the Zhongshan Kingdom. On the way to escape, The Zhongshan Monarch found that there were two escorts along the way, and learned that their father had been spared by receiving a pot of food given by the Zhongshan Monarch, so he came to repay the favor. Because of a bowl of mutton soup, the country was destroyed, and because of a pot of food, two loyal men were strange.

Guobo Guanzhan | Traces the Origin of "China on the Tip of the Tongue"

(Western Zhou) Cicada pattern stealing curved bronze za

Ending the primitive lifestyle of Ru Mao drinking blood, Chinese pioneered the art of cooking and cooking, and also created many recipes. The emergence of the "Eight Treasures" of the Zhou Dynasty marked that cooking became a unique food art, showing the wisdom and science of the ancient people's eating skills. Take the cannon dolphin as an example, take the piglet as the ingredient, wrap the date in the belly, cover it with wet mud, peel the mud after baking dry, take out the piglet, then paste the whole body with rice flour, fry it through and slice it in oil, and then put it in the small ding, and then put the small pig into the big wok ding (the wok is one of the large cooking copper utensils for cooking meat in ancient times, in ancient times it refers to the footless ding, and the ears are lifted with xuan and the whip), simmer continuously for three days and three nights with a low flame before taking it out and eating. One dish uses three methods of roasting, frying and stewing, and there are more than ten processes. In later generations, a variety of dazzling dishes were born on the basis of the "Eight Treasures" cooking method.

When it comes to recipes, there have been models in all dynasties and dynasties, and the most classic is the Food Classic. It is recorded in the Book of Sui, the Old Book of Tang, and the New Book of Tang, and is said to have been written by Cui Hao (Bo Yuan), the doctor of Emperor Taiwu of northern Wei. According to the "Biography of Wei Shu Cui Hao", this book is Cui Hao's mother Lu Shi and other female elders who pass on to their descendants various diet preparation methods such as eating at home, honoring the elderly, entertaining guests, and sacrificing ancestors. However, after Cui Hao was killed, the entire book was lost.

The daily life of the ancients is inseparable from tea and wine. Burning incense and tasting tea and interlacing are the favorites of thousands of years of literati and inkers. For tea, the ancient celebrities and gentlemen used "waitresses burning incense to talk about sencha", Lu Yu in the Tang Dynasty founded the sencha method, and the literati Lu Tong became addicted to tea, and used "seven bowls of tea" to flow to future generations. For wine, the ancients adhered to the concept of "non-wine vessels can not drink alcohol, and the size of the drinking vessel is moderate". In the exhibition hall, a piece of cultural relics related to tea and wine, such as black pottery cups, bronze jue, feathers, blue and white cups and other utensils, respectively tell the historical heritage of tea culture and wine culture, so that the public can vaguely explore the ancient people's living customs and aesthetic values.

Guobo Guanzhan | Traces the Origin of "China on the Tip of the Tongue"

(Song) Kitchen Lady Fish Diagram

Tea and wine also have countless historical stories, such as Sun Hao, the king of the State of Wu during the Three Kingdoms period, who was fond of drinking, and every time he set up a banquet, the visitors drank at least seven liters, but he was extremely important to the erudite and small-scale courtier Wei Yao, and often made exceptions to him. Whenever Wei Yao had difficulty stepping down, he "secretly gave tea to replace wine." In ancient times, although the number of drinking glasses at banquets was fixed, the degree was adjusted by guests with "cups", which were operated according to their own alcohol intake.

What are the etiquette of eating and drinking? In fact, in ancient times, feasting and eating paid attention to etiquette. Feasting and drinking pay attention to the relationship between guests and hosts, such as using music to entertain when drinking, and there are many rounds of toast and reciprocation; when the monarch and courtiers feast, when the courtiers return to their seats, they must retire down the steps to worship, and when the musician rings the bell for him, he also gives the meat he brings to the bell ringer to show that he is drinking in moderation. The cultivation of Chinese is reflected in eating attitudes and eating habits. It is said that once Tang Xuanzong and the prince had dinner, there was a cooked leg of lamb on the table. After the prince cut the leg of lamb, he wiped off the mutton fat on his hand with the cake, and Tang Xuanzong just wanted to reprimand him after seeing it, but found that the prince had eaten the cake, which turned from anger to joy. From this point of view, traditional Chinese food etiquette reflects the concept of "moderation" and "economy" of Chinese.

END

This article was published on january 26 in the Beijing Daily Connoisseur Edition

New Media Editor Chen Tao

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