In the TV drama "The Age of Awakening", Wang Mengzou, a Jixi man, took over the wind for Chen Duxiu and fired an authentic hui cuisine feast, of which the hard dish lotus leaf yellow trotter and the big dish Yipin pot are the classics of Hui cuisine. Wang Mengzou's hometown, Jixi, is the hometown of Chinese Hui cuisine, the hometown of Chinese chefs, and the birthplace of Hui cuisine.
As we all know, Lu cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Su cuisine, Fujian cuisine, Zhejiang cuisine, Hunan cuisine and Hui cuisine are the eight major cuisines in China. But what everyone doesn't know is that —
Shandong's east, west, south, and north tables have nine turns of fat intestines, scallion roasted sea cucumber...
Sichuan's east, west, south and north tables have mapo tofu, Mao Blood Wang...
There are soups and roasted pork on the tables in guangdong, east, west, south and north...
Jiangsu's east, west, south, and north tables have boiled dried silk, lion heads...
Zhejiang's east, west, south and north tables have Dongpo meat, Longjing shrimp...
There are chopped pepper fish heads and small stir-fried meat on the tables in the east, west, south and north of Hunan...
As the eighth oldest emblem dish is really very different. Its representative dishes are a pot, knife plate incense, stinky mandarin fish, tiger skin hair tofu, Qingzheng bamboo shoots, ham stewed turtle, steamed stone chicken (i.e. stone frog)... And these dishes will not appear in Hefei, Wuhu, Bengbu, Fuyang... wait for any table in the city, because Hui cuisine is not Anhui cuisine, but the local cuisine of Huizhou (the main body is now Huangshan City, Anhui Province). Huizhou cuisine can only be found on the tables of Huangshan City (except for the former Taiping County in Huangshan District), Jixi County and Wuyuan County (formerly huizhou).
First, the shoulder handle of Hui cuisine - Hu Shi Yipin pot
In the passage in "The Age of Awakening" in which Wang Mengzou picks up the wind for Chen Duxiu, the most attractive thing for these "foreign" aspiring young people is a super large iron pot called a pin pot. A pot of farmhouse pork, native chicken as the main ingredient, dried bamboo shoots, radish, dried beans as the base dish, adding tofu buns, egg dumplings and slow simmering, soup thick ingredients, each with fresh flavor, harmonious resonance. Mr. Hu Shi, a Jixi man, often used a pot to entertain distinguished guests, which made the dish famous, so it was later called Hu Shi a pin pot.
Today in any part of the motherland, if you want to verify that this Hui restaurant is not authentic, please ask the store first whether there is a Hu Shi Yi pin pot? Because Huicai's other brother, stinky mandarin fish, has achieved vacuum packaging, a treasure can be bought, and Hu Shi Yipin pot has nearly 20 kinds of ingredients, if it is not a professional Huizhou chef, can not achieve "scientific layering".
It is true that Hu Shi Yipin pot is the master of hui cuisine, and the essence of hui cuisine is not only what this pot can accommodate.
Second, the small grace of Hui cuisine - Jixi fried vermicelli
When I sat at the Jixi Restaurant in Jixi County and ate jixi fried fans, I sighed that I was happy to eat "fake and shoddy" Jixi fried fans for more than 20 years.
The Jixi fried fan in front of you does not look amazing "sitting upright" on the bamboo woven fire unique to Huizhou. Restaurants in Huizhou Dadi will use bamboo woven fire, because a small candle is placed inside, which can make the dishes not cold and maintain a better taste.
A Cargo Creek stir-fried vermicelli is characterized by heavy color, a lot of use of dark soy sauce and dark dried tea, so that the whole dish is dark brown.
In the face of this original Qingyuan Jixi fried fan in front of me, before I moved the chopsticks, I thought to myself, how can there be green vegetables in it? This fan color is so light? How to use the white dried tofu? When a chopstick falls into my mouth, my only thought is: Jixi is really worthy of being the hometown of Chinese hui cuisine and the hometown of Chinese chefs. That's wonderful! The light taste contains a hundred flavors, and the original taste of the light food, rather than the material, is really not easy to describe this taste.
Thinking of Gao Yuanyuan, who shot a clear mouth advertisement twenty years ago, is that feeling!
Third, the emblem dish is too extravagant - stinky mandarin fish
One man's meat is another's poison, a classic phrase from new English concept 3, is perfect for describing one's feelings about skunk mandarin fish. I think that although the stinky mandarin fish and The Liuzhou snail powder are thousands of miles apart, they must have the same soul and feel sorry for each other.
As a teenager, I was in contact with stinky mandarin fish for the first time in Huizhou, and I covered my nose hard and did not dare to relax. Dad told me that this was a fishmonger who was afraid that the fish would break in the summer, so he coated it with a layer of salt and sold it. But helpless high temperature mandarin fish or fermentation deterioration, fishmongers are reluctant to discard, this stinky mandarin fish washed, used to make dishes, but found that there is no smell at all, the meat is more fresh and tender than fresh mandarin fish. Under his spread, stinky mandarin fish slowly became a local specialty and has been passed down to this day.
The first foodie in China, the Chinese director on the tip of the tongue, Chen Xiaoqing, an Anhui native, described the stinky mandarin fish as such - thinking of the most memorable pickled mandarin fish he ate in his life, which was cooked in southern Anhui by the head chef himself. It was the season when the peach blossoms had just finished, and after the fresh mandarin fish was marinated, it was cut into pieces and roasted, and the aroma was fragrant, and the meat was extremely tender. The fish is sandwiched in front of the eyes, and the fish is scattered like a fresh lily. At this time, the cross-section of the fish meat that can be seen, the center is snow white, gradually colored to the side, to the edge, it is actually as bright as a peach blossom.
The author believes that the stinky mandarin fish is like this, after eating a bite, either hate and never see again; or love, long-term keeping.
Fourth, the emblem dish is very grotesque - edamame tofu
At the end of the ordinary streets and alleys, pieces of tofu in a large pan next to each other tightly, they all have long "white hair", a spoonful of rapeseed oil bathes them, after the fire of the stove is fully opened, the "white hair" is gone, the white tofu becomes golden, and a strange fragrance drifts away. Diners sat around, waiting for the hostess to deliver their food. The hostess skillfully shoveled a few pieces of golden tofu, drizzled with a little emerald green onion and red pepper paste, and handed it to a diner. By analogy, a pot of tofu is quickly divided.
The diners sitting around together pick up a piece of tofu with chopsticks, keep blowing, cooling it, and then gently taking a sip... If it were in the middle of winter, all the cold would seem to be gone.
This is the grotesque big coffee of Hui cuisine - edamame tofu. The surface of this tofu is covered with dense fluff, which looks like it has grown moldy due to too long being left. In fact, this is not the case, these villi are not only rich in nutrients, but also extremely beneficial to the body, which is to artificial fermentation method to make tofu produce some villi on the surface, so that in the process of fermentation, the plant protein of the beans can be converted into amino acids, which is more conducive to the absorption of the human body.
Edamame tofu is sold all year round, and fresh edamame tofu can be bought at tofu stalls and shops in the county and market towns. Of course, the most classic way to eat is that I met the tofu picks on the street above, one is dry wood and flat pot, and the other is edamame tofu, sesame oil and pepper paste, which are supported in the streets and alleys. Huizhou people outside the brigade, when it comes to edamame tofu, they will think of the tofu stall in front of their homes, which arouses a strong sense of homesickness.
Fifth, the thick of Huizhou cuisine - Huizhou fried noodles
Huizhou fried noodles are the only ones in Huizhou Fangzhengzong. The fried noodles are cut with a traditional seat bar knife in the hui style, which is very thin and tough, and has a taste that is 18,000 miles better than that of machine-pressed noodles.
Spring shoots are the best companion for fried noodles. In the spring, Huizhou people buy spring shoots from Wenzhenshan and cut them into strips; Huizhou small tofu fruits, shredded; and accompanied by semi-lean meat, small shrimp, shiitake mushrooms, fine salt, and other condiments. The side dishes are first put into the pot, the main character noodles appear after the stir-frying water, the raw noodles are spread loosely on the dishes, cover the pot lid, and burn with the most vigorous fire until the steam overflows, and the basic volatilization of the soup in the pot will not be exhausted. Open the lid and drizzle some oil around. Stir-fry the dish along with the noodles. Eat accurately salty and light, and then put down the shredded meat at the right time. Ready-to-do. The noodles are purely cooked for the hot heat of the vegetable soup.
Unlike the bean carob stewed noodles, the toughness of this Huizhou noodles ensures that it will never collapse after being plated, and the fresh spring shoot silk and noodles are a natural match, pick up a small spoonful of chili oil to mix, smell deeply, and get drunk. If it is a farmhouse stove, there will be a layer of crisp golden noodle pot underneath, which is better than the pot of rice pot. First, it is not so hard and has a crisp taste; second, it never sticks a drop of oil and does not get greasy. A bowl of wok noodles is on the table, you grab a large piece, this is the highlight of your meal, and this taste, you can't know without coming to Huizhou.
Hui cuisine is not as strong as Sichuan cuisine, not as indifferent as Cantonese cuisine, not as watery as Huaiyang cuisine... If I had to use one word to describe hui cuisine, I think it should be "deep", a taste of years of precipitation.
Come to Huizhou, don't forget Hui cuisine, three pounds in three days, five pounds in five days, it is not a dream!