General Feng Yuxiang's secretary, Xue Dubi, was a native of Shanxi. One of his daughters, Ms. Xue Shujian, is my friend's mother. Although I came to Shanghai as a teenager and graduated from The Chinese and Western Girls' High School, I am still an authentic Beijing film, and I am often warm and warm to people, and I like to treat guests with fried sauce noodles, so I am no stranger to fried sauce noodles. She confessed that Shanxi is materially poor, and all year round, a rich family like her can eat a meal of fried sauce noodles, and it must be a major festival or entertain special and distinguished guests. Therefore, in her mind, the supreme way of hospitality is to eat fried sauce noodles.
According to her, fried sauce noodles are not Shanxi dishes, but were brought back from Kyoto (Beijing) after retiring from Shanxi who had gone to Kyoto to become officials. Tracing back to the source, fried sauce was first created by Nurhaci, and it is necessary to replace the dish with sauce to strengthen the supply of the army and enhance the physique of the soldiers. After the Qing army entered the customs, this food culture was also brought into the palace. There was raw rice dip on every meal in the court, which was rolled up and eaten. The method of making the fried sauce seems simple, but it is very considerable: use yellow sauce and fat lean pork in half, add chopped onion and ginger and minced garlic, and simmer in hot oil for more than half an hour over low heat to form a thick and bright fried sauce. After the sauce entered the palace, the sauce making process became more and more exquisite. Spring, summer, autumn and winter eat different sauces in the four seasons: spring is fried cucumber sauce, summer is fried pea sauce, autumn is fried carrot sauce, winter is fried hazelnut sauce, known as the "four major sauces of the court". As the common people under the roots of the imperial city, they naturally also made their own sauces, each with their own strange tricks, but also a bit of a sea pie trend.
The fried sauce is fried in hot oil with sauce, the sauce has yellow sauce and sweet sauce, and the two sauces can also be mixed together according to different proportions, each of which is good, and mixed with other ingredients. Old Beijing fried sauce is very exquisite, such as scrambled eggs instead of diced meat, it is called muxi sauce; if you add lean pork diced carrots, dried white tofu and dried shrimp together, it is carrot sauce; there is also a kind of three fresh fried sauce, which is made of good pork tenderloin, shrimp and magnolia slices. The fried sauce must be oily and hot, and the ingredients are finely knifed.
Whenever you want to make fried sauce noodles, Ms. Xue must cook herself, and the nanny retreats to cook, making this four big sauces of the palace, which are served in four bowls, and there are no other dishes. The noodles are wide noodles, soft and hard, there is no noodle soup, directly scooped fried sauce poured on and mixed, a bit like hot day to eat mixed noodles, accompanied by thick rice porridge. Ms. Xue said that the authentic should be accompanied by millet porridge, afraid that we will not be accustomed to eating talented people in the countryside to change rice porridge. In the winter, eat such a bowl of fried sauce noodles, accompanied by hot rice porridge, full of heat. However, Aunt Xue said that her fried sauce noodles have been Shanghainized, sweet and less garlic, the real old Beijing fried sauce noodles, I am afraid that we can't eat it!
Writing this, I remembered that I visited South Korea twice in 2008 and 2010, and I saw Korean sauce. Almost every meal has a variety of flavored sauces for you to dip in. In South Korea, it seems that every housewife will make big sauce, whether it is related to Nurhaci's "substitution of sauce for vegetables" in that year? However, the Korean sauce is a little lighter, not as fat and sweet as the sauce I ate in Shanghai.
The stir-fried sauce in Shanghai cuisine is also somewhat similar to the fried sauce, which is to fry the sweet noodle sauce with dried tofu, diced tenderloin, diced shiitake mushrooms, and diced winter shoots, heavy sugar and heavy oil, slightly add some spicy goods, or fry some red peppers, which is beautiful and delicious. This sauce has a rich and sweet taste and is very delicious, also known as spicy sauce in Shanghainese. If you don't put spicy goods on hold, you will be fried with sauce to show the distinction. It seems that the old Beijing sauce, Korean sauce, Shanghai stir-fried sauce, out of the same sect and each have their own advantages, which shows the richness of food culture and the deep origin of each other.
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![The fried sauce noodles do this, and the relief is comparable to braised pork[fig]](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACwAAAAAAQABAAACAkQBADs=)