If clothes are the progress of human civilization, then the changes in clothing styles in different periods reflect the characteristics of historical development in different periods.
China has gone through forty-two dynasties before and after, and the representative clothing of almost every dynasty has differences, and some differences are even differences between the pre- and late dynasties of the same dynasty. So in the change of these forty-two dynasties, how amazing should these traditional Hanfu be? Today, let's take stock of the regular clothes and wedding dresses of different dynasties in china's ancient history, and see whose DNA has moved again?
Ancient often served
According to the criteria of whether there is a historical record in our country, we will start from the Xia Shang Zhou period onwards.
Xia, Shang, Zhou
During the "Xia" period of China's first feudal dynasty and the subsequent Shang and Zhou Dynasties, its clothing has not yet been found in kind.
However, in archaeological activities, some small amounts of jade and portraits, as well as the typical figures displayed in the tombs of women, we can roughly see that in the Shang Dynasty, the dress of the nobles was basically a collar, the waist merchant had a gentleman's belt, the lower body was dressed, and the knees were tied in front of the abdomen (also called "city", a bit like a short skirt to the knee).
In the Shang Dynasty, there was no particularly obvious distinction between men and women and inferiority, and the two-stage system of tops and bottoms was generally adopted, and the waist and cuffs were tight and narrow, and the length was knee-length, which was convenient for labor.
However, cloth, color and details (neckline cuffs, etc.) are still used to highlight the distinction between classes, and there are also strict divisions for the jade pendants worn and the patterns on the clothes, all in order to highlight their rank.
Until now, the clothing is roughly the same style, but this time will pay attention to the color distinction between "clothes (positive color)" and "clothes (inter-color)", and special attention will be paid to covering the knees, tying jade pendants and other decorations, mainly to support the color and show the identity.
For example, in the Western Zhou inscription "Mao Gongding", there is a saying that "Zhu Shi and Onion Huang ('Huang' refers to all accessories such as jade)".
At this time, the cuffs of the clothes slowly became larger, and the overall clothes were gradually widened, adding a large belt in front of the clothes, and the hair tie became a national standard. At the same time, there began to be a phenomenon of choosing different clothes and dresses according to different occasions, such as wedding dress, mourning dress, sacrifice, court dress, military dress, etc.
Spring and Autumn Warring States
During this period, "deep clothes" appeared in Hanfu, that is, clothes and clothes were linked together, not open, hidden backwards, bearded clothes and trousers. Convenient for horse riding.
Qin Han
In the qin dynasty of the first emperor of the ancient world, in addition to the unified weights and measures that we are familiar with, there are also special respects on clothing, such as "black" as the most honorable color in this period. From the excavated terracotta warriors, we can also see some of the characteristics of clothing.
In the Han Dynasty, there were more dressing rules, such as a white background, a sleeve width of one foot and two feet, fur fur of fur clothes facing outwards, a belt workmanship that was exquisite, and a man's sabre (bladeless).
Wei and Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties
This was a period of great upheaval in the ancient history of our country. Because of the continuous wars and disputes and the instability of social life, people's concept of etiquette and law gradually faded, and "personality liberation" began to be "liberated", and "praise and clothing" became a popular trend. In general, men in this period have wide necklines and pay attention to ease; women are long skirts with large sleeves and fluttering floors, and various decorations are used very complexly to show their elegance.
At the same time, the imperial dress at this time was red and purple, white was the dress of civilians, and women began to wear gold and silver rings and wrists. "Qiu" began to become a kind of precious aristocratic attire.
Sui and Tang Dynasties
At this time, there is a distinction between "legal service" and "regular service". "Legal clothing" is a more formal dress, crown, crown, clothing, clothing have corresponding regulations, virtual strict dress.
"Regular clothes" are the daily attire of all people (from the emperor to the small house), the round neck cardigan robe, leather belt (belt), head (turban) and boots are standard, the official's clothing has a grade, and yellow has become the main clothing color of the common people.
At this time, women's clothing was also bold, the overall clothing became wider and wider, the clothing was soft and flowing, the belt was no longer a necessity, the style was relatively open, and there began to have a long drapery (related to the introduction of Buddhism).
The overall style is grand and varied, which also influenced the development of Japanese clothing (kimono).
surname
At this time, the style still generally followed the Tang Dynasty system, but the turban was added with wooden bones, the outside was also covered with lacquered yarn, which could be worn at will, and there were two feet on the hats of high-ranking officials, which could be up to several feet long, and low-level officials did not.
It is more noteworthy that at this time, the official regular clothes also have color regulations, and there are also "time clothes" issued according to the seasons. The common people still wear white robes, and there are also systems such as plackets, jackets, and short browns. Women's attire is relatively convergent, with a narrow skirt and pants under the skirt. In the late Northern Song Dynasty, foot binding gradually became popular.
Yuan
This period is also a period of great national integration in the ancient history of our country, including clothing. The earlier costumes basically followed the Song system, and in the later period, "quality Sun clothes" gradually appeared, that is, the top and the bottom were connected, the upper and lower were short, and the back was hung with large beads. What is more exaggerated is that the clothes at this time have the grade of the season, pay attention to the wholeness, and the color of the clothes and hats should be consistent and quite standardized.
Women's costumes are mostly wide dragging robes, with narrow cuffs and fat sleeves, and shoulders and shoulders, which are quite gorgeous. Han costumes basically appear on the dancers in the palace, emphasizing elegance and femininity.
bright
This was the last feudal unified dynasty established by the Han Chinese in Chinese history, and the dynasty regained the main dominance of Hanfu, drawing on the etiquette style of the Zhou and Han dynasties to the Tang and Song dynasties in many ways, and formulated a new clothing system, which was dignified and magnificent as a whole, and the artistic value was quite high.
Ming mainly refers to the Tang system, the costume jade Tang Dynasty is quite close, the emperor's regular dress is a bright yellow dragon robe with a golden crown, and the dress is an ancient system of tops and bottoms, and the embroidery is quite exquisite. The "black gauze hat" became the standard for officials, and civilians were not allowed to wear it. There are also flying fish suits, python robes, etc., especially symbolizing power and status.
At this time, most of the women were mainly dressed in pleated skirts, horse-faced skirts and robes, and the overall style was dignified and dignified, and it was also much more conservative than that of the Tang Dynasty. The style of dress in this period influenced many regions, and countries such as Korea, Japan, and Ryukyu had relevant references.
clear
In our more common Qing Palace dramas, we have basically reflected the characteristics of the costumes of this period, which are Manchu flag costumes. However, it is not as unified as in film and television dramas, and there are also cases of Manchu and Han costumes coexisting, and the costumes of the Han people have always been retained.
Traditional clothing
Delete and delete, unconsciously or write so much, in order to facilitate reading, we will discuss the traditional wedding dress in the next issue! Here is a small point, that is, the white wedding dress of the West, in fact, in ancient China has long appeared Oh! Only later was slowly eliminated, it can be said that we played the rest.
In recent years, the cultural development of our country seems to have once again reached a period of great prosperity. Some traditional, excellent, and amazing cultures have been re-displayed in front of the public, and the traditional costumes with distinctive characteristics of each dynasty have entered the public vision in a modern way, showing their historical stories and cultural connotations.
I don't know if you readers, which dynasty's traditional costumes are your favorite?