laitimes

The Song people's tea ceremony shown in the "Wenhui Tu"

The Song people's tea ceremony shown in the "Wenhui Tu"

Part of Emperor Huizong's "Wenhui Tu" of Song Huizong

"Wenhui Tu" is an important Song painting handed down from generation to generation, with many historical and cultural values. The topic of this picture has gradually become a hot topic, and we will make some interesting additions to the tea ceremony below.

This image depicts a group of scribes having a party in the garden. Eight scribes sat around a huge black-lacquered square table, one of whom was dozing off, and in connection with the inscription of Emperor Huizong of Song on the upper right of the picture, "Ru Lin Hua Guo Ancient and Modern, Chanting and Waking Up Drunk", it can be seen that his person is drunk. On the generous table, there are food utensils, which are orderly and orderly, and there are ten sets of personal tableware on the four sides. Behind the scribes sitting on the table, there was also a large stone table with a piano on it, a brocade piano set one, a book three, and a guding one. At the oblique position of the large square table, between Ziwei and Cuizhu, there was another member of the family and a scribe talking, and it was obvious that they were temporarily leaving the seat.

Around the large square table and the scribes, there were five waiters, among whom the bearded, green-robed man was a musician. He clapped the board in his hand, as if he were watching the situation at the banquet. The interpretation of this figure that the author has seen so far is to use this person as a scribe, which is a misreading.

In the foreground of the picture, there are five waiters half-surrounded by two small square tables, and on the tables next to the table are charcoal stoves, kettles, cups, baskets, wooden barrels, plum bottles, baskets, sticks, bowls and other things, which closely echo with the Zhongjing scribes, waiters and things.

Because there is a scribe in the picture who is drunk, and the generous table is full of fresh peaches, lotuses and the like, it is obvious that this article meeting is already in the post-drink stage, and the drink used by the guest of honor is suitable for liquor. The drink in front of the guest at the large square table is a light-colored cupto, and the drink that the waiters in the foreground are preparing is a black cup, which is obviously a different drink. But what exactly are these two drinks?

The second waiter on the left of the foreground can help us. Only to see him holding a dagger in one hand, flicking into the bowl and holding the cup in the other, which is the most characteristic tea ordering action. For example, the Northern Song Dynasty Cai Xiang's "Tea Record and Tea Order": "If there is less tea and more soup, the cloud feet are scattered; if there is less soup and more tea, the porridge noodles are gathered." Jianren called cloud foot porridge noodles. Banknote tea a coin dagger, first pour soup, adjust the order extremely evenly, and then add it, ring back blow blow. "In August 1999, the Song Dynasty mural "Prepared Banquet Map" excavated from the Black Mountain Ditch in Dengfeng, Henan Province, can also be visited. Therefore, it can be assumed that the waiters are preparing tea.

Since ancient times, tea has been a good thing for quenching thirst, dispelling heat and relieving wine, as recorded in "Tang Materia Medica": "Tea: sweet and bitter taste, slightly cold, non-toxic." The main fistula, the benefit of urinating, the phlegm hot thirst, the people sleep less, the spring harvest. Another example is Tang Luyu's "Tea Classic, the Source of One": "Tea is used, the taste is cold, for the most suitable drinker to practice frugality, if hot and thirsty, condensed, brainache, astringent eyes, four branches of annoyance, a hundred knots are not comfortable, talk about four or five sips, and fight with Daigo and manna." The poems of the Song people record more about the efficacy of tea to dissolve wine, such as the Northern Song Dynasty Song Kuo's "Guan Wen Ding Right Cheng Asking for Tea because of the Short Poem Chapter II", one of which is: "Hui Lu really dissipates heat in the plexus, and can annoy Xia's feet with a bottle of spring." Huang Tingjian's "Pin Ling Tea Words": "Tang Xiang Song Feng, early reduction, two points of alcohol disease." Kong Pingzhong's "Jiancha A Song": "Jiancha a cup of nap, to get rid of thirst and annoyance is incomparable." "All reflect the situation in this picture.

The Song people's tea ceremony shown in the "Wenhui Tu"

Since it is known that the waiters are preparing tea, the drink that the guest of honor is using, if you understand the feasting habits of the Song people, you can also infer that it is a kind of soup that can also be decanted. For example, Huang Tingjian's "Partridge Heaven": "Tang Fan Bing Zhen sat in spring." The long pine forest is under the linggen. The auspicious Lao Tzu personally threw it out and taught hundreds of years old people one by one. Lamp flame. Drunk. The source of the valley had not awakened the soul. With Jun more put the bowl of eternal life, chat for the Qing song stationed in Baiyun. "It is written that the long pine soup is better than the precious yuanyuan tea." The Southern Song Dynasty scholar Cheng Jue's "Partridge Heavenly Soup Words" writes about the miraculous antidote of Fusang yu soup: "Drink the jade jade of the heavenly kitchen." Xian Yun Nine Plays Less Stop Chapter. Whoever picks the mulberry and pounds the blue bridge with cyanosis cream. Where the bones change, suddenly cool. Why fairy dew and jelly. ”

The person who best corresponded to the movement of the tea orderer was the waiter on his right hand. The waiter stood in front of the charcoal stove, which had two white kettles on it, and it was obvious that his duty was to wait for the soup. What is a waiting soup? The Northern Song Dynasty scholar Cai Xiang's "Tea Record and Waiting For Soup" said: "Waiting for soup is the most difficult, unripe is foaming, overcooked is tea sinking." In the past life, it was called 'crab eyes', and the soup was also cooked. It is not recognizable when it is boiled in a bottle, so it is the most difficult to wait for soup. The two white kettles, when silver, are also in line with Lu Yu's "Tea Classic, Four Instruments": "Hongzhou is made of porcelain, Laizhou is made of stone, porcelain and stone are elegant, and the sex is not solid, it is difficult to last." Made of silver, pure, but extravagant. Yaze Ya, pure and pure, if used constantly, and the pawn returns to silver. (The Sayings: "The One who has a big mouth." ”)

The most incomprehensible thing in the picture is the waiter holding a large pot of blue flowers on the left hand side of the tea orderer. What is he doing? The author believes that his function is 熁盏, which is related to the dynamics of the two waiters around him: one is ordering tea, and the other is wiping the table, which can be inferred. The cup, now generally known as the warm cup or warm cup, is to heat the tea cup with hot water in advance. Cai Xiang's "Tea Record And Waiting Soup" said: "Whoever wants to order tea must first make the cup hot, and if it is cold, the tea will not float." Wang Qianqiu's "Wind Flow" at the time of the Southern and Northern Song Dynasties: "The scroll stops dancing, and the side fire divides the tea." Smiling, splashing soup warm green cup, folding the yarn. "It also means that before ordering tea, you must first warm the cup." At this moment, the waiter should have just finished the work of the cup, and the large pot of blue flowers he was holding was the container used to burn the cup, which was equivalent to the tea washing used for kung fu tea today.

In this way, the atmosphere, program and specific waiting for soup, cups, and tea order links of the Song people's tea ceremony are really vivid, and the tea party in this gorgeous garden not only has the help of the seven strings of the sandalwood, but also the poetry and elegance of the literati, and the commission is also too fascinating.

Some scenes in the "Spring Feast Map" in the Collection of the National Palace Museum and the Two Kinds of "Tang Eighteen Scholars' Diagrams" in the Collection of the National Palace Museum in Taipei are very similar to this "Wenhui Map". The situation of these figures is also consistent with Ming Zhanggui's "Records of Authentic Handwriting", Qing Bian Yongyu's "Examination of Calligraphy and Painting in Shigutang" and other works. However, the "divine product" commented by Zhang and Bian now seems to be only the indescribable subtlety and purity of the "Wenhui Tu", and the tea ceremony plot it represents is also the most accurate and vivid, which can not only be corroborated with the relevant documents of the generations, but also supplemented in some aspects, which can be called the precious image record of the Song people's tea ceremony, which is particularly rare.

Author: Huang Jie, Associate Professor, School of Art and Archaeology, Zhejiang University

Editor: Xu Luming

Planner: Xu Luming

Editor-in-Charge: Huang Qizhe

*Wenhui exclusive manuscript, please indicate the source when reprinting.

Read on