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Cover news trainee reporter Wu Yong photographic report
On June 10, the fifth batch of national intangible cultural heritage representative projects was officially announced, among which the traditional cooking skills of Sichuan cuisine, which are loved by "dry rice people", were successfully ranked among them. Thinking of Sichuan cuisine, boiled meat slices, mapo tofu, Lizhuang white meat, etc., makes people salivate.
On June 11, the cover news reporter visited Lizhuang Ancient Town, Cuiping District, Yibin City, Sichuan Province, to gain an in-depth understanding of why Lizhuang white meat, as a representative of new-style Sichuan cuisine and also a famous dish of Tianfu tourism, is as thin as a cicada wing, fat and not greasy?
Where did it come from
From "garlic leg wrap" to "Lizhuang white meat"
At 9 o'clock in the morning, He Weidong, the inheritor of Lizhuang's white meat making skills and known as the "world's first knife", has gone to the store to change clothes and start sharpening knives, the kitchen emits a strong smell of meat, and at 10:30 in the morning, they will usher in the first wave of tourists who order food.
"Lizhuang white meat was originally called 'garlic mud legging', and the legend originated in the era when King Wu of Zhou rebelled and cut down, when people cut the corpse of the demon fox Su Daji into pieces and dipped it into garlic paste to eat, and later gradually evolved into a dish." He Weidong said while sharpening the knife that because the meat slices are thin and long, they should be wrapped when eating, a bit like the old society's foot binding, so this dish is called "garlic mud leg wrap meat".
During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, many schools and institutions such as Tongji University and Academia Sinica moved to Lizhuang, and Tao Menghe, director of the Institute of Social Sciences of the National Academy of Sciences, was full of praise when he ate Lizhuang's white meat. When he learned that the name of the dish was "garlic leg wrap", he felt that the name of such a delicious dish was indecent, and he thought that the biggest feature of this dish was in the knife work of the whole handmade slice of meat, each piece of white meat was wide and long when it became a dish, and each piece of meat could see through the light, which was a must. The coordination of the five flavors on the condiment is also just right, there is a sense of "adding a point is thick, minus one point is light", and garlic paste is an indispensable material, it was renamed "Li Zhuang knife work garlic paste white meat", and then gradually simplified to "Li Zhuang white meat".
What a special
The method should be said: precision and profit
How to eat: clip and throw dips
"To do a good job in the dish of Li zhuang white meat, we must pay attention to the four words of fine, accurate, profitable, and absolute." He Weidong said.
"Fine" means that pork should be carefully selected. He Weidong introduced that pork usually has to choose pigs weighing more than 280 kilograms to meet the "two-knife meat" standard of three-fifths of lean meat and two-fifths of fatty meat. "Quasi" is the control of the soaking time and the cooking temperature, through the accurate control of the time of the two, the white meat produced by the slice is crystal clear, bright and dazzling, and the color is like jade.
"Li" refers to the fact that the knife of the slice of meat needs to be sharp and the knife edge is flat, so as to ensure that lizhuang white meat is large and continuous, and the thin can see the light. Finally, the knife is "absolute", and the white meat that comes out of the slice should reach 26 cm long, 10 cm wide, and 1 mm to 2 mm thin. Two pounds of cooked meat can slice about 42 pieces of Lizhuang white meat to such an extreme degree.
Li Zhuang white meat eating method is also quite exquisite, a plate of Li Zhuang white meat on the table, in accordance with the order of "one clip, two throwing three dips and four products", forcefully clamp one end of the meat, clip up and throw it along the chopsticks a few times, so that the white meat is tightly wrapped on the chopsticks into a ball. Then repeatedly dip the seasoning into the flavor, and the last bite is sent to the mouth to enjoy the delicious taste.
How to develop
In the eyes of foreign friends, "strange dishes" are applying for intangible cultural heritage step by step
Lizhuang white meat also has an interesting little story, in the past when the National Tongji University was in Lizhuang, many foreign professors liked to eat this dish, but they did not know how to describe the name of this "strange dish". Because the "two knives of meat" is about two kilograms of pork legs after the "second knife" is cut, next to the buttocks, so every time the foreign professor makes a "pat on the ass" action to order, one after another, the habit becomes natural, and then every time the store knows that it is Li Zhuang white meat.
Walking on the street of Lizhuang Ancient Town, you can see many restaurants operating Lizhuang white meat, but you can hardly see any signboards specifically featuring "authentic". Pan Chengjun, director of the Lizhuang Ancient Town Service Center, told reporters: "Because Lizhuang white meat is the common brand of Lizhuang Ancient Town, every one here is authentic and does not need to be stated." ”
Pan Chengjun said that Lizhuang white meat has experienced the practice of excellence of generations of chefs, and the technology has reached the realm of pure fire, and in recent years, the inheritors have taken the initiative to go out to publicize the production technology of Lizhuang white meat, and many media have reported it, and the popularity is getting higher and higher. Lizhuang white meat has been gradually applying for intangible cultural heritage, and this dish from Yibin is gradually entering the eyes of food lovers around the world.
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