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The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

author:Qin Right History

Food, clothing, shelter and transportation are the most basic elements of everyone's life. And the people take food as the sky, and eating is the top priority. The once popular program "China on the Tip of the Tongue" has aroused the appetite of many people, and the food in the north and south of the world is mouth-watering. In the traditional Chinese medicine system, the taste is consistent with the five elements, that is, sour, bitter, sweet, spicy, and salty, corresponding to gold, wood, water, fire, and earth, respectively.

According to the theory of traditional Chinese medicine, the spicy taste can be scattered, the sour taste can be astringent, the sweet taste can be replenished and slowed, the bitter taste can be diarrhea and dry, and the salty taste can be soft and firm. Lao Tzu, the founder of Taoism, said: The five tastes are refreshing. According to the customs of the old Beijing, there are gods enshrined in various industries, and the food industry is no exception.

The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

Five bits and five lines

In the Jingshan area of Beijing, the god of five tastes is a very important god of food and is highly respected. The beautiful Jingshan Mountain is undulating by the mountains, and five pavilions have been built: Wanchun Pavilion, Zhou Xiang Pavilion, Fu Lan Pavilion, Guan Miao Pavilion and Ji Fang Pavilion. It enshrines a bronze Buddha representing the five flavors, and the incense is at its peak. In many folklore, tea shops, liquor shops, sesame oil mills, Chinese medicine shops and incense wax shops are five kinds of industries, and the taste is aromatic walking, which is called the downtown five taste gods. The so-called harmony of the five tastes is conducive to physical and mental health, which is what it means.

The so-called five-flavor god is all in Dumen, and old Beijing is the city of food. In the small hutongs of Beijing at that time, the silk bamboo lingered in the ears, and there were a variety of shouting and selling sounds, which constituted a chorus of hutongs with a strong Beijing flavor. At that time, various shops such as small oil and salt shops, dried fruit shops, grocery stores, small rice shops, mutton beds, steamed bun noodle shops, and tea shops also constituted the "five-flavor god" of the downtown area with a Beijing flavor. The flavor of food color makes the hutongs of old Beijing sound, colored, sentient and more flavorful.

The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

Wan Chun Ting

At the end of the book "Ji Sheng in the Age of Emperor Jing" by Pan Rongsheng, a scholar of the Qing Dynasty, there is a section on "Imperial Capital Pinhui", which introduces the goods of the city of Jingcheng with the text of the neat and tidy battle, many of which are already well-known long-established brands in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China:

Good food, the five tastes of the gods are all in the capital; what is rare, the three immortals bring the western region.

Jing cuisine north stir-fried, Xianluju Hundred Flavors controversy; Su Ling Nan Soup, Yushan Pavilion Three Fresh Zhanmei.

Qingping is centered on cold noodles, and the seats are crowned; Taihe upstairs is a nest of silk, and the door is filled with cars and horses.

The sugar point of Julan Zhai, the cake steamed guirui, divided from Songjiang, the fragrant crisp of the temple, the bread is full of goose oil, and the water is transmitted.

Jia Dai Mei Mei, Zhongshan Juxue boiled winter lai; excellent sprouts, Zhengyuan no.

By Sun Park, kaoru tofu is used as dried tea; in Tao Zhu Guan, steamed soup and sheep are used as meat noodles.

Sun beard, flat food wrapped in fine filling; Ma Siyuan, glutinous rice rolling Lantern.

Jade leaf mixed wontons, the name of Renhe and the wanton; silver silk bean noodles, the street of the scribes.

Manchurian tabletop, gaomingyuan pavilion front door; inside the hawthorn cake, Jia Jizhen bed Zhang Xi straight.

Candied candy perch peach apricot, Jingjiang and Yu Xingjia; citron bergamot orange orange, Wuxia Jingyang character number.

The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

Chinese medicine said

According to the research of Liu Jianbin and others, in the long-renowned "Five Taste Gods", the tea shop was first promoted. For example, the famous tea shops in Nancheng are the "Red Hat" of Luomashi Street, the "No Hengrun" and "Yuan Changhou" of Xuannei Street, the "Sentai" of Qianmen Street, and the "Zhang Yiyuan" in Dashilar, these tea shops are generally front shops and factories, long-distance transportation, harvested from Fujian, Zhejiang high-quality tea, extremely high quality.

The second taste is a large wine tank or a tavern. The aroma of wine wafting out of the tavern is also very attractive, and the two pots and Yanjing beer in Beijing are mellow and fragrant, and are still loved by Beijingers.

The third flavor is the oil and salt shop. The seductive smell of Wang Zhihe stinky tofu, the sesame aroma of tahini, the sauce aroma of Liubiju pickles, the hemp of peppercorns, the spiciness of chili paste, and the raw aroma of peanut oil constitute the unique mixed smell of oil and salt shops.

The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

Five-flavor grilled fish

The fourth taste is the Chinese medicine shop. As soon as you enter the Chinese medicine shop, you will be greeted by a grassy fragrance, fine taste, in this smell, it contains sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and other flavors.

The fifth flavor is lamb bed. The place where lamb is sold between the streets and alleys, and the lamb broth and haggis with sauce are also sold, which taste wonderful, and the same is true for the wax shop.

The five tastes represent the basic aspects of life in the city.

The Tip of the Tongue: The Five Tastes God and the Eating Life of the Old Beijingers

When Yan Jing was young, Ji Sheng Shuying

Five colors make people blind, five people make people refreshing. In addition, there are many well-known businesses. Such as Yu Heng Dang (pawn shop), "Fu Shi Xuan" (hotel or restaurant), "He Shun Dang" (pawn shop), "Shed Gao" (shed shop), "Chang Shun Dang", "Xing Shun Knife Shop", "Yuansheng Hotel", "Xinglong Hotel", Henian Tang (pharmacy), Xing Shun (oil coat shop), Tonghe (dowry shop), Tiancheng (silk ribbon shop), Tianxing (ice sugar gourd), Heshun (white meat restaurant) and other business names.

Therefore, the god of five tastes, as a symbol of food in old Beijing, has been passed down to this day.