Guangzhou, the international capital of gastronomy, gathers the delicacies of the north and south of the world, and countless diners eat here, but under the influence of the new crown epidemic, dishes such as white cut chicken and fish raw are listed as foods that are not recommended for purchase, and the best-selling field chicken at night is also facing a slow selling situation.
With the gradual improvement of the domestic epidemic situation, have these mouth-watering delicacies been lifted from the "cold palace"? Do operators have any new countermeasures against this? What is the attitude of diners?
Photo by China News Service reporter Sultan
Salt-baked chicken becomes a substitute for blood-stained white-cut chicken
The number of overseas Chinese in Guangdong is huge, and the most unforgettable Cantonese flavor of overseas Chinese who go out from Guangdong is white cut chicken. There is a saying in the Cantonese banquet that "no chicken is no banquet", and the chicken dish listed first in the "Suiyuan Food List" written by Yuan Ming in the Qing Dynasty is the white cut chicken, which is enough to show that the white cut chicken has had a high status among many diners since ancient times.
Photo by Li Xiaochun
However, under the influence of the new coronavirus, the Guangdong Provincial Market Supervision and Administration Bureau issued a notice on the prevention and control of the epidemic, clearly classifying white cut chicken as a "cold food that is not recommended to be ordered".
Cold? cooked food? There has been much controversy over whether white cut chicken is cooked or cold. The traditional method of white cut chicken needs to go through the production process of "three dips, one soak and one cold", and the cooked chicken achieves the effect of undercooked meat bones, and today, with a stricter degree of hygiene, the cooking process of white cut chicken in many areas has been upgraded to the extent that the meat bones are cooked thoroughly before tasting.
Photo by Zhang Haichuan
Boss Cai from Guangzhou, Guangdong Province, is the owner of a roasted wax shop, the epidemic is coming to an end, the business in the store is gradually recovering, the old Cai frowned for three months before he stretched a little, "During the epidemic, white cut chicken can not sell six a day. ", the white cut chicken in the old Cai shop is a roasted pork sign in the vicinity, and on weekdays, there is always a long queue at the door of his roasted meat shop, "The white cut chicken is generally cooked nine times to maturity, the bones are a little bloody, and the taste is the best." However, some time ago, because of the epidemic, some people looked at the bones with blood and did not dare to eat, based on this, our store recently made more salt baked chicken for sale. ”
The change of white cut chicken to salt baked chicken not only conveys the helplessness of the shopkeeper, but also shows the entanglement of diners. Wang Jing, a Xi'an native who has lived in Guangzhou for nearly two decades, said that every time she wore a mask to enter the store and saw bloody chicken bones, she hesitated for a while, "To be honest, I prefer to eat white cut chicken, but the epidemic has not completely dissipated, and I still choose to replace it with salt-baked chicken for the time being." ”
The market is tight and the fish is looking for good opportunities
The white cut chicken with bloody bones found a substitute for the salt-baked chicken, but the raw fish did not seem so lucky. During the epidemic, the market share of fish raw, which is popular with diners around the world, has shrunk, "Recently, the epidemic situation has improved, and the takeaway orders for fish raw have only recovered 30%. ”
Infographic Seafood store operators wear masks to pick up goods. Photo by Zhu Junxiu
Shunde fish raw is shunde people New Year feast indispensable dish, fish raw is a cold dish, its production method is extremely exquisite, the first step is to release fish blood, fish blood after the clean and then thoroughly clean the fish meat, do not leave a wisp of blood. During the epidemic period, this step is related to the hygienic quality of the dishes, and many diners are also discouraged from fish.
Ouyang Taigen, a fisherman who has been raising fish for more than 30 years, said that after the fish meat is cut into crystal clear flakes, it needs to be put into the refrigerator and frozen for 20 minutes, so that the raw taste of the fish is the best. Raw and cold fish are often eaten with no less than twenty condiments, which are also raw. Therefore, raw fish is temporarily classified as a dish that is not recommended.
Today, when the epidemic is gradually dissipating, the fish are looking for a good opportunity to return to the market, and the fishermen are finally showing their eyebrows. The person in charge of a supermarket in Guangzhou said that the price of fish fresh has fluctuated normally recently, and customers who buy fish and fresh food are still in an endless stream, "The catering industry has been greatly affected by fluctuations, and supermarkets and markets have been affected by relatively small fluctuations, after all, customers can buy seafood home and cook themselves." ”
The person in charge of a restaurant in Guangzhou said, "At the beginning of the epidemic, the restaurant had sold a large number of original seafood on its own. Because the restaurant adjusted its business strategy to launch the takeaway pick-up service, many diners ordered fish dishes, so the restaurant will still purchase some fresh fish every day, but the number is only one-third of the original. The person in charge of the restaurant said that at present, the restaurant is resuming the market in accordance with the relevant regulations, and the number of seafood products ordered is gradually recovering according to demand, "The restaurant now needs to book a meal, and the order hotline is very hot these days." We are still very confident about the future traffic. ”
In the new Plum Garden Catering Company, general manager Guo Jiachuang said that the original operation of the restaurant, divided into a chao cuisine restaurant and a vegetarian restaurant, the current restaurant is ready to use the popularity of the vegetarian restaurant for the tide dish drainage, and launch a series of new tidal dishes to attract diners, According to the custom, there will be a wave of small peaks in catering consumption in May every year, and the workload of employees in the current business volume is not much, so try to work the quality of service, improve the service level and catering quality. ”
Unattended field chickens forced farmers to retreat
In the contemporary city where nightlife is becoming more and more abundant, supper is the favorite of every urban night, and the teppanyaki chicken is the best-selling item of supper. Recently, Guangdong's field chicken farmers have been in a struggle, "field chickens are slow to sell, can not be sold and can not afford to raise, I have begun to withdraw from the market." ”
In March, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs issued the latest notice that species in the National Key Protection Economic Hydroacoustic Animal and Plant Resources List are not included in the scope of prohibition, and bullfrogs, American frogs, etc. can resume sales. However, the large-scale Thai tiger striped frog, commonly known as the "field chicken", in the Pearl River Delta region, has not been allowed to resume sales.
Guangdong currently has about 40 million pounds of product frogs that can be listed in the pond, and many farmers are complaining bitterly, "Now it is a bit helpless, the daily mortality rate of field chickens is about 20%, and the daily loss is thousands of yuan." The main income of the family comes from this, hoping to solve the problem of slow sales quickly", feed manufacturers are also distressed, "field chickens can not be sold, farmers have no income, feed demand has also decreased." The person in charge of a feed factory in Foshan, who did not want to be named, said that in response to the crisis, the factory has reduced production time, etc., and feed production has dropped by 60% for two consecutive months.
The unsalable field chicken needs to be solved urgently, and the taste buds of diners are anxiously waiting. Near South China University of Technology, Hunan native Wang Jie is busy in her own barbecue shop, and Zhang Meilin, a student who lives nearby, is hungry waiting for food, "Aunt Wang's teppanyaki chicken is my favorite delicacy after studying late in the past, because of the epidemic, I have not eaten it for two months." Zhang Meilin skimmed her lips and said that tonight she still did not eat the Ueda chicken, "Auntie did not buy, I can only come to a roast eggplant to relieve the hunger." ”
"The big hot iron plate, put in the field chicken, the end sprinkled a handful of pepper salt", Wang Jie said with great interest about her own specialty dishes, talking about the current situation of the field chicken and her own business, her eyes flashed a hint of helplessness, "The start time of the university has not yet been determined, only sporadic off-duty people will buy a few strings of grilled vegetarian dishes, the traffic is very small, so the field chicken I did not buy." ”
In the barbecue shop with a few wisps of cooking smoke, Wang Jiebai was bored to brush her mobile phone, and the news about the slow sale of field chickens and the delay in the opening of the university came into her eyes, looking at the pedestrians on the street, she sighed, "Guangzhou is a very inclusive city, there are diners in the north and south of the world, and I can support my family here by selling barbecues." Stepping on the lights in the alley, she embarked on her way home, "The days should always get better and better, I have warmed up the iron plate, waiting to see the children at the dinner table again." ”