Some people say that the most healing thing in the world is nothing more than fireworks in the world. When we rejoice, we look for happiness in food, and when we are sad, we find solace in food. And when the ancient Xiapu poets encountered food, they hid the aroma of a meal and a vegetable into the poems, even if they were separated by thousands of years, they also infinitely teased our taste buds.
"Served with lettuce and salted salin
Morning meal was full of drunkenness"
――[Qing] Zhang Guangxiao "Song of the Totoaba Fish"
Guanjingyang has always been one of the famous spawning grounds of large yellow croaker in mainland China. The famous good port of Sanduao, Sun Yat-sen and Guo Moruo both inscribed poems for it, and Guanjingyang is located in the center of Qiao, with high mountains in all directions, and the sea is as deep as a well. Cucumber fish is large yellow croaker, scientific name totoaba fish. There are two small stones in its brain, which are as white as jade. In the fourth month of the lunar calendar, when it rains, the neem flowers bloom, and the cucumber fish swim into the Guanjing Ocean from the foreign phase to hatch their eggs. The neem flower is yellow, and the fishermen call this fish yellow croaker, and it is called cucumber fish because of the call. At that time, the three counties of Ningde, Fu'an and Xiapu in eastern Fujian were gathered, and hundreds of boats competed for the stream, which was magnificent. Xiapu Zhujiang Zhang Qulou wrote "Guanjing Fishing Theory": "When the melon fish is in the water, thousands of turbulent oars, the waves are flying, the sound of melons, the sound of oars, and the voices of people are misty, galloping, surging and surging, thousands of ships are weaving, and the sea is shaking...... The fisherman inserts the water with the tail rudder to check the sound of the net, and the fish blows the snail to attract the buyer. When the fish is in full bloom, the local people each stab the boat to the Guanjing Ocean, saying that they see the yellow flowers, and they must buy the fish and return. [Qing] Zhang Guangxiao's "Song of the Totoaba Fish" said: "The water of the official well is surging with waves, and the yellow flowers are flying one after another. The netsmith has to blow the snail, and the bow market rubs shoulder-to-shoulder. The flowers are blooming and the locust beans are in the mountains, and there are more fish this year than last year. Laughing at Yu Yu and accumulating Yicheng Liquor, cooking Huo Huo knife is sharpened. Served with lettuce and salted salvi, the morning meal is full of drunkenness. I want to ask Dongpo, how does the sea bass taste like this?"
In the 50s of the last century, the operation method of knocking the totoaba resonated with the two otoliths in the totoaba skull, and the big fish and small fish fainted together, and they were all caught in one net, resulting in extinction fishing. In recent years, we have developed deep-sea cage culture of large yellow croaker, and we are fortunate to be able to taste the delicious taste of Guanjing melon fish...... In 2016, the deep-water large yellow croaker was awarded the honorary title of "Top Ten Famous Dishes of Fuzhou", and the ecological breeding of wild large yellow croaker was selected, and the large yellow croaker was deboned and taken from the meat with exquisite skills, and carefully cut into peony blades. The tender fish smells of the sea. The fillet is wrapped in wheat syrup carefully prepared with egg white, and the heat of the oil pan is fried to a golden brown coat, and the tender fish is wrapped in a crispy skin, which can be described as crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The ancient acetic sauce made of maltose, jujube paste and old vinegar is poured on the fried fish, presenting a crystal and moist appearance, and the entrance is sweet and sour and appetizing, suitable for all ages. The most famous is the golden-threaded yellow croaker roll. Ingredients: 1 cucumber fish (about 800 grams), auxiliary ingredients: pork belly, fresh shrimp meat, shiitake mushrooms, water chestnuts, ginger, green onions, carrots, starch. Seasoning: refined salt, sugar, monosodium glutamate, pepper, cooking wine. Production method: cucumber fish disemboweling belly washed, slice the bilateral fish, cut the fish meat into 12 pieces of uniform size with the knife method of butterfly slices; peel the pork belly, chop it into a filling together with fresh shrimp meat, shuifa shiitake mushroom, water chestnut, add seasoning and mix well for later use; put the fish slices flat on the operating table, with a small amount of refined salt, monosodium glutamate, The sauce of cooking wine is beaten into the flavor, sprinkle a little starch on the side and tail of the fish, smear the mixed filling, roll it into the shape of a fish roll, put it in an oiled plate, put the fish head and tail, steam it for about seven minutes, take it out, drain out the fish soup, add the stock to adjust the flavor and thicken it and pour it on the fish roll. Flavor characteristics: good shape, delicious taste, fresh and tender. This dish is a traditional dish that has been passed down in Kasumigaura for a long time.
"Angry eyes like frogs, wings like flags"
- Qing Nie Huang "Song of the Fish"
Along the coastline of Changsha, you can see a strange animal alive everywhere: some are bouncing around the mud, some are shuttling through the mangroves, and some are burrowing in the mud, hiding themselves in the most ingenious way, waiting for the next chance to rise at high tide. This agile, lightbulb-like animal is called mudskipper, an amphibian fish that lives on flat seaside muddy grounds. Changsha mudskipper meat is delicious and delicate, smooth and delicious, rich in protein and fat, so the Japanese call it "sea ginseng", especially in the winter season, mudskipper meat fat and fishy light, so there is also the saying of "winter jumping fish race river eel". According to the recorded dietary therapy methods: for those who have recovered from long-term illness, kidney deficiency and sperm deficiency, weak physique, waist and knee pain, and limb weakness, they can use a few taels of fish and angelica, cooked ground or wolfberry, astragalus and other stews; If you take it once a day and several times in a row, it will have a significant effect. In addition, it also has the effect of tonifying the body and accelerating wound healing, and also has a good tonic effect on post-operative patients and postpartum women. Common mudskipper cooking method: wash with water first, put about two bowls of water in the pot, put the fish in, and then quickly cover the pot. The water slowly boils, and you can hear the fish bouncing around in it until it fades silent, which is the first step. The second step is to scoop up the fish and put it in a bowl for later use. Over medium heat, add two spoonfuls of oil, sauté the ginger slightly, then pour the fish in and fry it together, adding the appropriate salt and chicken essence. Add two small bowls of water, cover the pot, and when the water boils, you can pour it into a slightly larger bowl, it is best to add a little angelica to the bowl, which can remove the fishy smell of the fish. Third, put some water in the pot, put the bowl in it, and steam it for about 25 to 30 minutes before serving. In addition, mudskipper is used to make a soup with tofu and bamboo shoots, and if ham or shiitake mushrooms are added, the flavor is even more delicious. "Oolong (mudskipper) Ming white jade (tofu)" is a well-known delicacy, the preparation method is similar to loach drill tofu, due to the heating on the fire, mudskipper because of the torment and into the tofu, after ripening and solidifying, with chopsticks to open the tofu, you can see that some of them are sprinting violently, some are shaking their heads and swinging their tails, some are bowed and want to be elastic, some are made to straighten the waist, the forms are different, black and white, plus there are carrot shreds, green cabbage leaves are contrasting, so that this special dish is fragrant and refreshing, and the aftertaste is endless.
"The long sword leans against the sky, the sun and the moon compete for the light"
- Qing Nie Huang "Sword Clam Praise"
Nie Huang, known as Cun'an, a native of Qiantang, Zhejiang, spanned three generations of Qingkang, Yong, and Qian. Later, he lived in Hangzhou, Taizhou, Wenzhou and other southeast coasts, traveled to Yunnan, Guizhou, Jing and Henan, visited marine life in Hebei and Tianjin, and then lived in Xiapu for six years. From 1698 (the 37th year of the reign of Kangxi), Nie Huang "collected manuscripts and transcribed them, all into one map", called "Sea Mistake Map", and attached detailed observations, research postscripts and praises, which preserved a large number of marine fish, fishery and cultural materials in Xiapu. Write sword clams: sword clams, but the production of Fujian's Funing, Ningde. It is like a clam and small, the shell is thin and area, and the taste is clear, and there is a summer month. Its shell is white and sharp, hence the name of the sword. "Praise of Sword Clams": "The long sword leans against the sky, and the sun and the moon compete for light." Meaning: razor clams are only produced in Funing and Ningde, Fujian. It is slightly smaller than ordinary razor clams, has a thin and small shell, and is very light to eat. Sword clams only appear in summer, and their white shells are very sharp, hence the name.
Sword clams, it is a treasure in the eyes of Xiapu people, and it is particularly famous for growing on the beach of Shatang Sword Clam Village, Shajiang Town, Xiapu County. Sword clams, also known as razor clams, grow in fertile sea fields. The two white shells appear light and agile. You can't imagine that the oily black tidal flats can give birth to such smooth creatures. The sword clams are like swords, and compared with ordinary sea clams, they look petite and exquisite. Wild razor clams, about 0.5 cm wide and 1.5-2.5 cm long, are called "small razor clams" by the locals. After large-scale breeding, the size of the razor clams has also doubled, and the large ones can reach 1-1.5 cm wide and 4-5 cm long, which is the "big sword clam". The selection of sword clams is better to be small, and it is a blessing to be able to eat "small sword clams", the taste is "fresh, tender, crisp and refreshing", when you eat the first bite, you can no longer stop, until the whole plate is wiped out. Sword clams are a natural tonic given to the people of Kasumigura, and it is rich in protein, calcium, iron, vitamin A and other nutrients. The ingredients determine the cuisine. This is especially true for seafood cooking, and the Kasumigaura razor clams are a great talent. Blanched razor clams retain the original flavor of razor clams. Don't look at the blanched razor clams, it is not technical to let the razor clams "walk" in the soup, but they are actually very knowledgeable. The heat needs to be accurate and in place, one less point is too raw, and one more point is too old. Pour an appropriate amount of water into the pot first, observe carefully, wait for bubbles to germinate in the water, pour the razor clams into the pot, after a minute or two, blanch them with a spoon in the same direction, the action should be gentle and gentle, so as not to break the clams, and it is also conducive to the full contact between the razor clams and the hot water, and cook evenly. Keep an eye on the pot, and if a razor clams open a small bite, immediately start the pot and strain the soup. This kind of clam meat is full of sweetness, without the saltiness of other seafood, and the whole body exudes deliciousness. In addition to blanching, razor clams can also be made into "onion fragrant razor clams" and "garlic clams", which are good accompaniments to wine. The sword clams with green onion flavor have a salty, fragrant and crispy taste. Garlic razor clams have a strong flavor, garlic has the effect of sterilizing and improving flavor and helping digestion, and foreign tourists or people who do not often eat seafood can choose this dish. If it is said that the taste of blanched razor clams is better than "fresh and sweet", and the taste of "sword clams with wine" is better than "salty, crispy and refreshing". The home-made "wine stewed razor clams" and "wolfberry razor clams" focus on replenishing deficiency and nourishment. In fact, compared with sea clams, sword clams are not suitable for this cooking method, and the requirements for heat are quite high.
"There is nothing else on the plate, and the oysters are delicious"
――[Qing] Zhang Guangbi "Zhujiang Documentary"
The oyster is also known as oyster yellow or oyster, oyster, is a shellfish, pure male and female, so it gets the name (the meaning of the oyster). Fresh oysters are the fattest after the winter solstice and before Qingming in the following year, and Lao Xing is the best time to eat fresh oysters. The Western proverb says, "A month without the letter R does not eat oysters." That is, in English, in May, June, July, and August, you do not eat oysters. During this period, the oysters enter the maturity period, during which the nutrients in the oysters are almost exhausted, so the taste is not good, and the mature oysters are easy to accumulate many toxins in the reproductive nest, and people are easy to be poisoned when they eat them. After September, the oysters have completed their spawning tasks, and in order to restore their weakened bodies, they concentrate on eating, and their physique is becoming more and more fat, especially storing a large amount of nutrients called "glycogen". From October to March of the following year, the glycogen reaches its peak, and it is during this fattening period that the composition of betaine, another substance in the oyster's body, also increases, so the umami taste is improved. Oysters are not only tender and delicious, but also nutritious, with the reputation of "milk in the sea", containing a variety of vitamins, taurine, liver sugar and other minerals and other nutrients, its iodine content is 200 times higher than milk and egg yolk, and its zinc content is high, which can be the top of other foods. The "Compendium of Materia Medica" says that oyster meat "eats more, can clean the skin, nourish the kidneys and strengthen yang, and can cure deficiency and detoxify erysipelas". "Decoction Materia Medica" says: oysters "are soft and firm." Introduce it with Bupleurum to remove the hardness of the flank, to introduce it with glory, to eliminate tuberculosis on the neck, to introduce it with rhubarb, to eliminate interfemoral swelling, and to use Rehmannia as the tool, it can benefit the essence and stop urinating. The medicine of the blood of the kidney menstrual is also". "Materia Medica" says: "The cook is weak, and the woman's blood is in the middle...... Eat it raw in ginger vinegar to treat erysipelas, irritate after drinking, and quench thirst. The "Compendium of Medical Forestry" says: "Sweet and salty, Hui cold." Clear the lungs and nourish the heart, nourish the yin and nourish the blood. "Food Secretary" said: "Clear heat, adjust the tone, make people fine skin, beautiful color." The "Pharmacopoeia of the People's Republic of China" records that oysters "soothe the nerves, latent yin and replenish yang, soft and hard to disperse knots, astringent and astringent, used for palpitations and insomnia, dizziness and tinnitus, sputum and cough, sputum and cough, scabs, spontaneous sweats, semen collapse, gastric acid and pantothenic acid". Oyster diet therapy is suitable for long-term illness and blood deficiency or fever after yin and jin depletion, restlessness, self-sweating and night sweats, sperm loss and other symptoms.
Zhujiang Village in Zhang Guangbi's "Zhujiang Documentary" is actually an island, which floats on the Guanjing Ocean at the northern end of Sanduao in eastern Fujian, with a land area of only 0.2 square kilometers, and there is no land to cultivate or mountains to reclaim on the island. During the Ming Dynasty, the fishermen on the island abandoned the fishing foil to try to raise oysters, and the oysters on the bamboo poles were stacked on top of each other, and they benefited a lot, so they named the bamboo oysters. Zheng Hongtu, the ninth member of the Zheng family on the island, wrote the "Oyster Examination", which recorded in detail the climatic conditions and growth rules of bamboo planting oysters, summarized the breeding techniques, and became the first monograph on the mainland to systematically introduce oyster farming. Zhujiang's oysters have been cultivated for more than 500 years, and the oyster feast made with oysters is loved by everyone, and it is a must-eat dish in Xiapu. The Zhujiang oyster feast is famous. After the chef's arrangement, there are many patterns, such as oyster seaweed pot, oyster hot and sour soup, oyster cake, fried oysters, cheese oysters, etc., which make people have a great appetite. Of course, the most recommended dish of Kasumigaura oysters is the white bamboo oysters. Ingredients: 400 grams of bamboo oysters. Excipients: white distiller's grains, ginger shreds, garlic sprouts, green onions. Seasoning: edible oil, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, sugar, cooking wine. Production method: Wash the bamboo oysters with water to remove excess shell impurities for later use; after the pot is heated with oil over medium heat, add green onions, ginger shreds, and garlic white and stir-fry until fragrant, add bamboo oysters and stir-fry, add white wine grains, garlic leaves and water, add seasonings and simmer for three minutes. 【Flavor characteristics】Fresh and smooth, with a strong fragrance.
"Splash the sweetfish and shine the scales
Originally an aquatic tribe sakuzan chin"
- Qing Cai Qi "Feeding Sweet Fish Liang Zhongcheng"
Liang Zhongcheng in Cai Qi's Seven Laws "Liang Zhongcheng of Feeding Fragrant Fish" in the Daoguang period refers to Liang Zhangju, a famous scholar who served as the governor of Liangjiang, and Cai Qi's poem writes about the living environment, living habits, growth cycle, catching season, processing methods and so on. The Qing Dynasty poet Duanmu Guohu also had a poem: "The tendon bamboo stream is cold and the rice is born, and the Furong Creek is warm and sweetfish." Yangjiaxi is located in the southwest side of Taimu Mountain, northwest of Xiapuya Town, formerly known as Nanyangping, since the Northern Song Dynasty famous general Yang Wenguang "Pingnanman Eighteen Caves", named Yangjiaxi. Yangjiaxi sweetfish, also known as anchovy, is known as the king of freshwater fish in Japan and Taiwan, and people like to bake it into dry food. Ayu is also known as the year turtle, southern Fujian is called Xifeng, eastern Fujian is called Shiyu, catfish, Taiwan is called the scale fish, national surname fish, etc. Ayu belongs to the order Herringiformes, Ayu family, which is a valuable small and medium-sized fish in warm water estuaries and inland waters. Its meat is delicate, fragrant and beautiful, and the flavor is special, and it is a high-quality edible fish. It can nourish and fitness, especially for postpartum women and patients. The body of the sweetfish is slender and flattened, generally 15-20 cm long, and the maximum is 32 cm. The mouth is large, obliquely lobed, the head is small, and the snout is bent downward, forming a snout hook. There is a protrusion at the front of the mandib, and there is a distinct depression between the two protrusions. The upper and lower jaws have a row of wide, flattened teeth, which are mobile and epiphytic on the skin. The vomer is edentulous and the jaw and tongue are toothed. The whole body is covered with small round scales except for the head. The dorsal body is green, and the sides and abdomen are silvery-white. Behind the operculum there is a large orange spot distinct. The fins are pale yellow with a red spot above the pectoral fins. Miraculously, the sweetfish is an annual fish, the Yangjiaxi River section is the natural spawning ground of the sweetfish, every year at the beginning of winter, the female fish spawns here, and then returns to the sea to die. At the beginning of the following year, the young sweetfish swim up the river and mature in summer and autumn. Ayu is no more than four taels in size, likes clear rapids, swims in clusters, does not eat vulgar bait, and survives in the streams where fresh water and sea water meet in Japan, the Philippines, Korea and Taiwan, China. In the history of food, only Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Fujian can be found in Chinese mainland, and now the wild sweetfish in Qingxi is only Xiapu Yangjiaxi. Ayu fish meat is rich in trace elements such as protein and minerals, and regular consumption can play a role in replenishing qi and invigorating qi, diuresis and swelling. The body of the sweetfish is narrow and flattened, the head is small and the snout is pointed, the mouth is large and the eyes are small, the body is blue-yellow, the dorsal edge is black, the sides and abdomen are white, there are fine scales, the tail is forked, each fin has no hard spines, there is a small fat fin behind the dorsal fin, each fin is pale yellow when it is alive, and there is a yellow spot above the pelvic fin. There is a balsam-filled cavity on the back of the ayu, which gives off a rich aroma. Ayu has become a delicacy as early as the Han Dynasty, and the Eastern Han Dynasty celebrity Yan Guang (Ziling) rejected the call of Emperor Guangwu Liu Xiu on the grounds that it was difficult to give up the deliciousness, which made the ayu famous all over the world. Su Shi, a great writer in the Song Dynasty, praised it and called it "cherishing the scale fish" and "the best in the south", and praised it in a poem: "There is still peach blossom spring, and the flavor is better than sea bass." ”
Cooking method of sweetfish: salt grilling is the most common and simplest method, sprinkle a thin layer of salt on the washed fish body, and the fins and tails of the fish are recommended to be smeared with a thicker layer of salt; put it in the oven preheated at 200 °C for 10 minutes, bake at 200 °C for about 15 minutes, and bake it on one side until it is 7 minutes cooked, so that the heating is more even, and the color and crispiness will be better. Drizzle lemon juice before serving to enhance the flavor, and the simple method is very delicious. The biggest purpose of applying salt is not to season, but to cool down, prevent high temperature from damaging the skin of the fish, and also avoid the loss of internal juice. The salt-fried cooking process is as follows: rinse the sweetfish with water to remove the mucous membrane on the surface. Then use a kitchen towel to dry the water on the ayu. It is necessary to do a good job of drying the water, so that the sweetfish is not easy to explode and stick to the pan after being put into the pot. Sprinkle the sweetfish with a little salt and pepper on both sides. Pepper and salt are "wiped" on the fish body, and the fried fish will be too salty, and the salt flavor will be evenly distributed by sprinkling. Dip in some flour to avoid sticking to the bottom of the pan. After heating the pan, pour in the salad oil, add the sweetfish, fry the fish over low heat until the fish is golden brown, then turn over and fry to finish, and then squeeze in lemon juice to taste.
Xiapu cuisine is not only a taste enjoyment, but also the inheritance and continuation of Funing's culture and history. We should respect and cherish every cuisine, explore and discover more delicious food, and also understand and experience more culture and history through food.
Author
Chen Jian, whose pen name is Xiao Ran, was born in January 1965 and is a native of Xiapu. In August 1986, he graduated from the Department of Chinese of Fujian Normal University with a bachelor of arts. He used to be a university teacher, newspaper editor (reporter), and secretary, and now works for the Standing Committee of the Xiapu County People's Congress. He is the author of a collection of prose criticisms, "Nostalgia is a River", "White Bird in the Air", "Twilight Goes to the Dawn", "Deep Water and Shallow Water: A Review of the Works of Eastern Mindong Writers", etc. His works have won the Gold Award of Selected Essays and the Fujian Newspaper Supplement Review Award. He is a member of the National Committee of the Fujian Writers Association and a visiting professor of Ningde Normal College.
Source: Xiapu County Rong Media Center
Editor-in-charge: Lin Weijie
Editor: Cao Shiyun (intern)
Reviewer: Yan Chenxi
Producer: Lin Xi
Director: Chen Xiujing
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Source: Xiapu News Network