Fashion Monday in New York ended, and london began again. Although London Fashion Week has long since declined, the highlight is in Milan and Paris. However, in this environment, the big names can't do anything amazing, and some small cards are not so deeply affected by capital but can make some good things. After all, the resources of small cards are far less than those of big cards, and everyone's expectations for small cards are not so high, and there will be many unexpected gains when looking down.
Before writing the show, first of all, I will talk about the problem of the national model in the previous part, and the look they interpreted when choosing the picture may not be so representative and not selected, not that there is no national model on the show. Besides, the highlight hasn't started yet, no hurry. And the results of the recent advertising season national models are very good, the national models that have gone out have basically gained, and the national models are certainly indispensable on the show.
Bora Aksu
New York is written in the style of mature women, London will change the style, starting with the sweet and girly style Bora Aksu.
Tulle, lace, flowers, bows, ruffles, puff sleeves, doll skirts, you can think of the elements of a girl in this show.
The gradual transition from black and white to dark blue to light and sweet ice cream is very much in line with the time when the chill is gradually fading and everything is in a new state to welcome the arrival of spring.
Although the overall image of a very messy girl is presented, it still integrates the intricate and exquisite court elements that modern girls have never had. This season is inspired by Christine de Pizan, an aristocratic woman of the early 14th-century Renaissance, so you'll see plenty of delicate embroidery and handmade lace, lustrous satin fabrics, graceful frills and crystal accessories.
This season isn't entirely confined to the Renaissance either, and Bora Aksu is also looking at women in the '90s. At that time, women were full of power and freedom, so this season you can also see retro checks (checked coats are good Dior, and there are small bees on one of the people's logos, but Dior in the aunt period is also quite a "popular face") and prints, double-breasted suits, tweed coats, knitted cardigans.
The luxurious palace costumes of the fourteenth century have been modernized, removing the overly grand and ornate decorations, incorporating renaissance romance into the modern silhouette, and the tones have been changed to more bright and rich 90s style colors.
The fashion circle of the 90s is full of flowers, and women's dressing styles are becoming more and more diverse, this season mainly takes the retro and exquisite girl route, but the details are still added to many other styles of accessories to enrich the overall level.
Literary berets, cold drama diamond plaid stockings, crisp leather shorts and retro handsome Martin boots, small details add a lot of interesting personality, not just delicate and fragile "fragile girl".
Harris Reed
Next up is Harris Reed, a brand you may not have heard of, but the sisters who followed last year's Met Gala should all remember that gleaming brush look (not), right?
Under the interpretation of supermodel Iman, she is simply the sun goddess of african tribes, and her look can be compared with Celine Dion's 2019 CP. This famous look is from Harris Reed, a brand that has only released two seasons of the current brand with the Met Gala, and the same design has appeared this season, but the presentation method personally feels that the Met Gala is better.
Although only ten sets of look appeared this season, these ten sets were completely done with a high-end attitude (we don't consider the actual wear), and each set has a full look.
This season is still the main sexless, non-sexism is also a big trend that has lasted for a long time, women's wear Needless to say, men's wear is now popular. Looking at the current men's clothing show, exquisite and gorgeous, enchanting and sexy, gentle and delicate... Everything.
Back to this season's look, the first set presents the beauty of ancient Greek sculpture, the top of the body sculpture silhouette also has a carved pattern, the black and white color scheme plus the arrow "pierced into the body", and the overall sense of ancient Greek fatalistic tragedy and solemnity. The huge hat ornament on the top of the head is a good balance of color and visual center of gravity, and the whole is as solemn as ancient Greek sculpture, simple in tone and delicate in detail.
The sleeves and neckline bow of the yellow suit are exaggerated, paired with a giant gold hat ornament, and the lace suit also uses a huge bow and hat ornament to add drama, which is retro enough and camp enough.
The black velvet look top stacked with a beautiful silhouette at the neckline, plus a rose red glitter inside, the whole face shines like the stars and the moon.
The same design of the Met Gala also appeared this season, and the black one resembled a plucked crow due to color processing.
Just that white one I'd jump to Tom
Lace shirts and trousers, with a top hat, are also very beautiful. The gray-black diamond-trimmed waist with wavy folds and the mask on my face reminded me of a fish that had jumped out of the oil-contaminated sea with a string of black waves.
The last set of fishtail skirts is the season's favorite look, the chest is the two hands that pull the ring, the lower body is spliced to design the velvet part of the fishtail skirt is cut out of the shape of the fishtail by cutting, and the taffeta at the hem emits a faint glow, like the sea surface under the moonlight. The head is still a hat with a huge brim, and the models of this set of looks are also very well chosen, the lean muscle lines and posture also perfectly reflect the essence of this set of looks, and I am looking forward to the way Zendaya wears it. Overall, it was a season I liked very much.
Eftychia
After watching the couture Harris Reed to see the practical, Eftychia is a brand that focuses on making business women's clothing, formal and practical, but not too old-fashioned and boring. The demand for business women's clothing has dropped significantly due to the impact of the epidemic, and Eftychia has also enriched the types of design, making many soft skirts, and this season is no exception.
Eftychia made this series into a "casual evening wear", from the name can see the characteristics of this series, blazers, Nehru collar jackets, shirts and trousers are cut smoothly and naturally, simple and textured style is very suitable for daily wear.
The addition of velvet, silk satin fabrics and improved suit evening dresses adds to the gorgeousness of evening wear, and the cut is more relaxed, adding a sense of casualness to evening wear.
The details are also very beautiful, the velvet stitching lapels and pockets on the blazer, and the satin stitching lapels on the gown coat, simple and very attractive.
The tapered side panels are moved to the front, creating a longitudinal line extension on the front to make the legs longer.
The dress is clean and gentle, and the cut fabric reveals small pieces of skin, which are secured with mother-of-pearl buttons to add a delicate and laid-back sensuality.
All looks are paired with vintage boots or Oxford shoes, and the formal sharps are not too grand.
Nancy Dojaka
Having just won the LVMH Award, nensi Dojaka, the recently popular rising star, still has a season with a strong brand style.
The iconic deconstructed bra, stocking design and intricate straps, glamorous body lines, sexy yet not kitsch.
The contours of the tight body and the thin fabric are not erotic and vulgar because of their strongly cut design, but are full of body-confidence and strong personality that dare to show the body.
This season, there are plus-size models, as well as pregnant models, who are not blindly bound, the figure determines the silhouette of the clothing, and the imperfect body can also show unique beautiful lines. Kitsch comes mostly from the sense of flattery, dressing only to please yourself, self-confidence and boldness and a sense of strength are the most important factors in supporting clothes.
In addition to using the brand's best elements more flexibly, this season also incorporates velvet, leather, knit, sequins and other fabrics, adding a sharp atmosphere that no one can enter through sharp cuts, adding to the richness of the entire collection.
In addition to the iconic look, the rest of the details are also infused with the brand's DNA, the thin belt at the waist of the trousers, the tulle fan decoration, the leather skirt with the crotch hollowed out and decorated with thin bands, the thin belt drawstring on the down jacket... All echo the theme of this season.
Because it is autumn and winter, I also symbolically made two sets of winter clothes, but it is always wrong, and sure enough, there is no hot girl in winter.
Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn, one of the most anticipated runways at London Fashion Week, has also brought a particularly colourful collection this season.
This season still shows Richard Quinn's fascination with the golden age of Parisian haute couture and British floral motifs, cropped loose coats, tight underwear, chidori plaid, long and short gloves, wide-brimmed hats... Elegant or sexy, the large pieces of beaded embroidery on the technique are not inferior to the couture.
Flowers are spread throughout the show, all kinds of colors, different sizes, using prints and beads to present, bright and lively without being too noisy.
Because of the fascination with the golden age of haute couture, you can also see a large number of brand classic elements this season, the opening black and white polka dot coat feather fabric treatment is very similar to Alexander McQueen; the corset is one of dolce & Gabbana's classic designs; the black latex jacket and Thierry Mugler must be at least 90%;
The all-in-one design will be reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent's 1965 cocoon-shaped matryoshka wedding dress, and it will also be associated with Alexander McQueen, like McQueen's crotch silhouette;
The three sets of pink looks like Balenciaga, the founder and the current designer, and one has the style of Dior in the Gianfranco Ferre period;
The closed bride look is like a replica of The Circle's Givenchy... It's also rare to see so many classic designs of the big names of yesteryear on the same runway.
Fashion East
London Fashion Week is known for its avant-garde avant-garde, and it is estimated that things that are too avant-garde are not well understood, and now it is not very exciting, and this season has chosen a relatively mild Fashion East. The whole series is designed by different designers, the demeanor spans a lot, and the sense of separation in one series is very strong, unlike a complete series, and each style is also doing well separately.
Designer Jawara Alleyne grew up in the Caribbean, and the abundant sunshine that accompanies Jawara Alleyne's growth all year round also incorporates his design philosophy, "I am obsessed with presenting something that makes people feel alive, gravity, the way the fabric is hung, the old way of the cloth..." The pin-fixed cloth pieces, twisting and knotting, revealing shiny skin... In addition to the cool style design, it also captures the state of the fabric under the sun exposure, which is old and white due to excess sun exposure.
Chet Lo's part is inspired by memories of going skiing in Canada as a child, but instead of being overwhelmingly white, it's filled with candy. Earmuffs, large scarves, sweaters, faux fur, down vest skirts, it's really winter, and the sweet colors also reduce the chill.
But with that, it can only be said that bloggers who go to Changbai Mountain to take photos should buy quickly (no, this wave of enthusiasm seems to have passed). The biggest attraction of this part is that there are many "small tugging" knitwear items like puffer fish or coral, the fabric outline is somewhat peculiar but not exaggerated, the color is very light, the cut silhouette is also traditional, and the overall is still gentle, not too incomprehensible.
The part of Maximilian Davis, who has just been nominated for the LVMH Award, has a religious connotation, with white dresses printed with jesus' thorns and improved priestly uniforms, which are derived from Maximilian Davis's childhood experiences in Catholic schools.
In addition to Catholic miniatures, this season is also full of rebellious spirits, ultra-short tight skirts, ruffled outer underwear, tulle deep V dresses...
But there's no shortage of well-cut looks, with pleated riding jackets lined in quilted cotton and elegant solid color suits, and the texture of the cut and fabric creases is very attractive.
Simone Rocha
Inspired by the Irish fairy tale "Children of Lir", simone Rocha this season is set up in a medieval style.
Court style, swan embroidery, feathers and balaclava hat designs run through the show. Pair these designs with motorcycle jackets, cargo pants, loose coats, gauze skirts and more, embellished with the label's signature pearl diamonds and British embroidery for a season of intense brand style.
Jackets are piled with a large number of folds; court-style tops with cargo pants, tulle and suit sleeves at the waist; high-waisted jackets with pleats on the chest; checkered shirts with tulle skirts; embroidered dresses with streamers;
The waist of the velvet dress was hollowed out in place of tulle, revealing a hazy waist; the petals were cut at the edges, and the skirt was decorated with tulle feathers...
From silhouette to detail, each set of looks is full of details, stacked on top of Simone Rocha's unique maximalism.
The makeup also matches the theme of "Children of Lir", similar to the black swan pearl diamond eye makeup, and the eyebrows are also designed in the shape of feathers.
The bag is still the signature pearl bag of Simone Rocha, and the two metal buckles are also very good-looking.
The shoes are still full of decorations, and the neutral Oxford shoes are decorated with warm pearls and the familiar muffin shoes.
Virtue
London Fashion Week ends with Erdem, a collection that imagines the nightlife of an extraordinary group of women, painters Jeanne Mammen and Elfrie de Lohse-W chtler; dancers Anita Berber and Valeska Gert; and photographer's wife, Madami d'ora, who represent the progressive cultural spirit of Berlin in the 1930s.
The British supermodel Karen Elson opened and closed, and this season did not deliberately emphasize their characteristics, but quietly integrated into each set of looks, showing their style with a complete and mature series.
The whole series is gloomy and delicate and romantic, gray, black, dark blue, dark red set the base color of the season, even the light brightness is relatively low or mixed with dark patterns.
The fabrics take a lot of thought, jacquard fabrics, floral prints, tulle strip decorations...
The design is also unambiguous, with the brand's consistent British classical style, but also incorporated neutral elements, wavy curls, floral embroidery, beaded corsets, fringed coat long skirts, suit suits...
Since the nightlife is portrayed, how can there be less glittering beads, most of the beads this season are dark, made of scarves, hat ornaments, skirts, decorated on the skirt, adding a low-key brilliance to the deep look.
London Fashion Week is over, and there are still more wonderful shows on a closer look, and the choice of styles is more diverse. Compared with the New York Fashion Week fabric, there is a more wonderful treatment, and the overall design is more innovative. There are also some brands that are also doing well, but due to limited space, they have not written for the time being, and interested sisters can find it themselves. The overall design quality in the current environment is declining, so it is still necessary to reduce expectations, and do not have to cling to big brands, look at small cards that like style, and from time to time will receive surprises. Look, london fashion week is not a lot of small brands doing well.