First of all, the guests invited Hunter Schafer, Evan Mock and NCT's Lee Jeno. These are all names that will make the blood of cool kids on TikTok boil. Jeno, in particular, flooded social networks with his video of the show within hours of the show, along with Ferragamo's new collection.
Hunter Schafer
Lee Jeno
Evan Mock
In fact, since Davis' first collection, Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2023, the long-standing Italian luxury brand has been associated with many new generation icons. Zendaya, Dua Lipa and "Black Panther 2" star Letitia Wright all wore Ferragamo's modern fashion.
Zendaya
Photographer: Tomas Herold
Dua Lipa attends Vogue Forces of Fashion
The show also featured Uma Thurman in response to the eternal inspiration of the brand's "Hollywood Star." But in my opinion, Thurman's appearance is still an Easter egg carefully arranged by Davis for the theme of this season.
Located at the Allianz Mico Congress Centre in Milan, the new season presents a very open space: consisting of winding black walls, soft off-white carpets and square seating arranged in a circular shape. The soft and pure runway space focuses attention on the design of the new season.
As the lights come on, a "good show" is about to begin.
Maximilian Davis refocused his attention on Salvatore Ferragamo's second home, Hollywood. "In the thirties, the Ferragamo brand grew by making shoes for films, and by the fifties it had established close relationships with famous movie stars such as Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe," he said before the show. "This group of elegant and glamorous women and their stylish wardrobes are the inspiration for this season's show.
Davis took Monroe's beloved wide V-neck and reinvented it with a contemporary perspective. The precise pinching of the neckline to the rotator cuffs gives them a feminine and sexy look when they slide down to the shoulders; It can also be pulled back into the regular V-neck to suit everyday wear.
Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe, 1950
The tight waist and umbrella skirt, which were popular at the time, were broken down into a new design, with a sheer top or a halter neck, embellished with Ferragamo's signature Pantone red accessory.
Monroe's fluffy fur in Passion is recreated on the runway in eco-friendly faux fur, paired with bodysuits and stiletto heels.
Monroe's story with Ferragamo also stems from those glamorous high heels: in the 1950s and 1960s, she ordered numerous pairs of 4-inch heels from Mr. Ferragamo.
Among them, model Zhang Lina's interpretation of the animal-patterned fur coat, its unique pattern is taken from the exotic print in the collection's design. Now printed with silkscreen on fur or foal accessories, subtle changes bring the heritage back to life while being more environmentally friendly.
As Davis says, "I was inspired by their dressing style while looking at a new aesthetic of modern fashion." ”
Originating from Hollywood movie stars' wardrobes, Davis explores classic styles and iconic silhouettes from the fifties.
The opening silhouette coat, cropped bomber jacket and shirt are borrowed from the cocoon cut of the time. The precise and fluid double-sided silhouette is sleek and nipped-in waist, while the comfortable stretch wool gabardine brings a modern touch to traditional styles.
The glossy white nylon material has been on the runway since last season, and this season also features a new dress skirt - the nipped-in waist and round skirt, also from the fifties. Wear it with shorts and hooded cardigans, which is more in line with the trend of young people.
Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2023 collection
The wide-hemmed coat with a wide hem was based on the "Swing Coat" that was born in the early 50s. Davis takes a contemporary look at it, with a contrasting dark brown and cream white design that makes this leather coat refreshing.
But beyond the "wardrobe of inspiration," Maximilian Davis also looks to something much deeper: art.
Inspired by artist Lucio Fontana's "Knife Cutting Elements" in the Concept of Space series, Davis brings a series of wonderful creations:
The sharply cut suit and the dress, which fit the figure, use a "knife cut" technique similar to the work of art, showing the "inside" of colorful tones; Or "cut" the back and skirt to create a feminine frilled trim.
Lucio Fontana's Concept of Space
The gabardine trench coat and motorcycle leather jacket hide a deep red behind the zipper, which precisely fits Davis's aesthetic and highlights the pioneering spirit of the rebellious youth of the fifties.
As Fontana puts it, "I'm not trying to create a painting; I want to open up space, create a new dimension, connect with the universe, and expand endlessly beyond the closed plane. ”
With similar ideas, Davis disassembles and reconstructs traditional fashion, and gives clothing more decorative and discussion meaning.
Lucio Fontana
He also applies the "space concept" to more diverse pieces: thin lines at the pockets and cuffs of his coats, or cutting and embedding contrasting lines on bags.
This coincides with the openwork handbag in the brand's collection – the element of oval cutouts has been extended to newly designed shoes this season. At the same time, it is reminiscent of the work of Dadamaino, another artist active in the second half of the fifties.
The futuristic fashion of the 1950s was also the focus of Maximilian Davis' discussion.
Embodied in those glossy patent leather pieces, they perfectly envelop women's bodies and give the wearer endless glamour.
The skinny metallic miniskirt with a pleated design gives a dreamy sparkle like candy paper, adding the finishing touch to the collection.
Davis said after the show: "This is what I understood people in the fifties to envision the future style: weird metallic texture and shiny sheen. ”
But his exploration of futurism goes beyond that.
The smartly tailored miniskirt and ultra-shorts are reminiscent of the Space Center uniform worn by Uma Thurman in the sci-fi movie "A Thousand Shots". Perhaps one of the reasons Thurman appeared in the front row of the show?
A still from "A Thousand Shots"
The details of black uniforms and white shirts that constantly appear in the film are introduced into men's styling, becoming an expression of the collision of contemporary and retro-futurism.
In fact, for flat, rather than three-dimensional pictures, it is difficult to perceive the exquisite craftsmanship and high-grade texture contained in the fabrics and details, so where does Ferragamo's "sense of premium" come from?
Davis' answer: minimalism.
Looking back at his designs, the cut is precise and clean, the strict and restrained proportional structure, coupled with the perfect details, makes every coat and every skirt flawless.
But he would pair rigorous and formal styles with delicate and elegant silk scarves, or with Renaissance-style draped details to create a casual elegance.
According to Davis: "I wanted to show the more romantic side of the fifties, where the contrast between light and dignified was so stark, a collision and an encounter." ”
The occasional outrageous decorative details and the three primary color embellishments such as the artistic palette just meet the appeal of contemporary urban women for sophisticated play, making Ferragamo stand out in the dazzling fashion season.
As we said at the beginning of the article, this is a surprising series!
In 1956, Mr. Salvatore Ferragamo created a beautiful high heel from 18K gold. Today, Davis has created a completely new design based on this classic shoe.
This pair of heels, which inherit the brand's rich history, appeared on the show invitation as the most eye-catching item of the season.
The angular style inspired the stiletto heel design of the new series of high heels; The twisted rope element is used in the strap design of the handbag, giving the commuter bag a luxurious and sophisticated look.
A tote from the Spring/Summer 1998 collection, rejuvenated with new proportions and new metal trims, and given a variety of embossed patterns, vintage and modern.
The new Wanda handbag is still fashionable, and the clutch style is exquisite and eye-catching; The newly launched large handbag, the same details of both hands "wrap" around the body, classic and fresh.
Mr. Ferragamo was known for designing countless avant-garde heels for Hollywood stars. Maximilian Davis, who has now taken over as the new helm, also creates a new season of fashion with a pioneering perspective.
At the end of the show, Davis took the stage to thank him. The camera swept across the front row of the runway, and celebrity guests such as Uma Thurman and Hunter Schafer all gave enthusiastic applause and congratulated him on a great new collection.
How do young brand creative directors respond to history and create the present? Davis gives the perfect answer.
He also made Ferragamo timeless and more and more fashionable!
Edited by Tristan
Design: Lele