From Vivienne Westwoood, Hermes, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, to Giambattista Valli, Loewe, NinaRicci and Coperni... With more and more autumn/winter fashion shows during Paris Fashion Week, fashion aesthetics are becoming more and more diverse between classical and contemporary, fashion or technology.
Behind it is not only the evolution and iteration of culture, but also the dissolution and reshaping of meaning.
Designer Jonathan Anderson was once again a surprise.
A white satin dress printed with the style of the ancient clothing of the forties and fifties, a casual sports suit with light and dreamy feathers, a stiff and square leather shirt, and a wide coat, casual bag and folding boots. And the deliberately blurred images on the clothing make people speculate whether this is a printing problem, or is the picture out of focus?
In fact, it is a tribute to the style of the past and innovation.
Anderson told WWD that all the bags on display on the runway were inspired by the 1970s style in Loewe's archives. "When I first joined Loewe, I rejected these old archival designs, and it was the first time I embraced the traditional idea of this leather goods brand," he admits. "It's the beauty of fashion that you can revisit, reinterpret, redesign." ”
Vivienne Westwood's Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, the first Look opens with a memory of the Empress Dowager Xi, but the portrait of the Empress Dowager is happy, ghostly, and enthusiastic, as if this is a party to see her off.
The masterpieces of this amazing woman's life have been recreated on the runway in different ways: the handiwork she was proud of since her debut, curtain dresses, rock jewelry, rough but thick coats, kilts... One by one, accompanied by the sometimes soothing and sometimes surging music on the show, exuding the cool energy of the Empress Dowager Xi's unruly and powerful life. On this show, gender and age are meaningless, male models wear skirts and high heels, senior supermodels and young faces walk the catwalk, interacting with a strong Westwood style. The final look is Andreas Kronthaler's handwriting, white lace outlines the close-fitting dress is the most beautiful wedding dress, a bouquet of flowers full of all love and memories. Andreas Kronthaler himself also made a final curtain call, and many people burst into tears.
Without fancy decorations, Hermès women's clothing is still the kind of high-class tone advocated by French women - leather can be presented in a straight riding suit, or it can be a soft fit like a second skin, and the combination of leather and sports stretch fabrics, the material appears in a blended rather than spliced way, and the visual experience is extremely delicate; The color belongs to winter, the warmth of the earth, the warmth of the red, the calm of the black; The style is more diverse, suitable for dinner dresses, sassy pants, and the chic of young girls...
Today, when minimalism and high coldness have become the mainstream aesthetics of the runway, a lively and relaxed fashion show is really rare.
With retro brims, oversized silhouettes, swaying skirts, mopping bows, bold color schemes, and dramatic tensions, the models sway like celebrities in retro theaters.
It is worth noting that colorful platform heels ran through almost the entire show. Since the resurgence of platform heels last year, block heels and platform shoes still have a trend of continued influence.
It was the first show by designer Harris Reed to join Nina Ricci, and as he said: Parisneeds a little bit of fun!
When it comes to the darlings of social networks, Coperni deserves it.
Who wouldn't remember that in the last season's new product launch, Coperni used the body of model Bella Hadid as a canvas, sprayed the upper body with white fiber pigment that can quickly solidify, and tailored a slit textile fiber skirt on the spot. Within minutes of creation, the audience was silent; And in the months that followed, social media was everywhere discussing Coperni's creativity and boldness.
With a minimalist aesthetic and modern technology as core elements of the brand, Coperni is considered one of the most popular French brands among blogger celebrities and Gen Z today.
Before the season opens, the model walks up to the Spot robot (electronic dog) developed by Boston Dynamic. The robotic arm raised to greet her, and the two approached as if sensing each other and whispering. Then the robotic arm ripped off the model's coat, dangled in a circle, handed the coat back, and the big show began. The brief performance is evocative, and the machine and humans seem to have an emotional exchange, quite a bit of the obscure romance of French literary films.
This season, Coperni reinterprets the balance of rights in human society, inspired by the fable of The Wolf and the Goat: without rulers and the ruled, humans and machines can coexist peacefully in the future world.
Interestingly, the chatbot Chat GPT, which recently caught fire, tells us what it thinks about showing models and robots on the runway, which coincides with Coperni's expectations. Overall, combining robots and models in fashion shows is a way to showcase the latest trends and designs, it said. It's exciting, innovative, and helps push the boundaries of what's possible in the fashion world.
This is a good expectation, and it may be a harbinger of the fashion industry's rewriting of the new order. WWD
Written by Mr. Liu Ziyi and Mr. Kira
Editor-in-charge Yalta
Video credit: Shi Biqiong and the Internet
Image source: Brand official and online