It is undeniable that in Milan, which has just ended, you can especially feel that the haze of the past has dissipated.
On the one hand, the emergence of national models such as Liu Wen, Sun Feifei, Du Juan, He Cong, and other luxury brand spokespersons such as Li Yuchun, Xiao Zhan, Liu Shishi, Cai Xukun, etc., the situation of China's scarcity of faces and Hallyu idols occupying the topic has been broken, and the re-emergence of Chinese pop culture indicates that the Chinese market's position in the luxury field will be more valued.
On the other hand, from Fendi, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, to Bottega Veneta and Bally, the brand's new collections undoubtedly build a rich narrative context for the return of the physical show, reinvigorating the city of Milan.
At Milan Fashion Week this season, designers' exploration of the meaning of fashion is clearer and deeper. On February 23, Prada released the Fall/Winter 2023 Women's Show, re-establishing the concept of care and protection through pragmatism and the essence of clothing.
Back to square one, clothing is a "guardian" that provides warmth and shelter to people. Down, as an important material language, white cocoon-shaped coat and skirt soft as light cushions give the wearer a sense of security; Raf Simons' focus on functional clothing was also given a more caring color this season, with the suede of protective clothing used on formal wear, and the detachable collar of working-class suits mixed and matched with various high-end garments throughout the scene; The romantic wedding dress, which symbolizes love, is transformed into a daily outfit and paired with a comfortable basic sweater to complement the new daily outfit; The common all-white nurse's uniform is cut and reshaped into a dress that wraps around the body.
These are intellectual fashions co-created by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, with reflections on the current world, returning the breakthrough of the fashion industry to the emotional essence of safety and simplicity. Uniforms are meant by care and responsibility, with no boundaries between everyday and formal, ordinary and special, and this innocent care not only awakens our love for ourselves, for others, and for the world, but also for the strength to move forward in a reality without utopia.
As Miuccia Prada explains the core of the work: "My main concern now is to value humble work, simple work, not just extreme beauty or glamour. ”
If Prada's care is from the inside out, then Kim Jones' revival of the classic from the brand's archive this season is more about protecting the self.
"The collection is architecturally disruptive, yet luxurious, with a nod to punk culture and my own appreciation of artisanal creations, with a focus on chic elegance. I still remember Delfina wearing a blue and brown suit on my first day on the job, and I was very impressed. ”
Kim Jones uses Delfina Delettrez Fendi as the muse, accurately insight into Fendi's group portraits, and conveys to the public the new urban women's style that returns to their true self through the rich language of haute couture.
On February 22, Diesel, as the opening brand of Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2023, interpreted denim's trick with a strong sense of destruction, and a unique and stylized interpretation shaped the new sexy style of Italian women.
Since taking the helm of Diesel, Creative Director Glenn Martens has been committed to building a context of freedom that empathizes with the public in a disruptive and innovative way. This time, he teamed up with Durex to create a popular home stadium, combining street style with innovative fabrics, boldness and high-level craftsmanship to innovate the image of classic denim elements, and give fashion a new interpretation of the sexy language.
Unlike Diesel's unrestrained interpretation of Italian sexiness, this season Dolce & Gabbana digs deep into the sexiness of Sicilian women with the ultimate seductive black.
Fabric is the soul of Italian fashion, and this season's designer traces the origins to exquisite tailoring and fine fabric combinations that can show a woman's sensuality. Tulle, leather, silk, velvet, their black background accentuates the texture, as the designer himself said: "We use only the best silk, the best wool, no strange fabrics, because this is the pursuit of classical meaning and eternity." ”
Unlike Glenn Martens' revolutionary breakthrough, Giorgio Armani's creation of Italian elegance is a commitment to time. The flowing textures of ethereal elegance outline the natural and soft contours, and the rich silk and velvet are combined with the ingenious embroidery process, as if engraved in time and nature. And the model who touched up her makeup while walking the catwalk at the end of the big show changed the public's fantasy of the runway in a sense.
Just like Giorgio Armani's show, the Borgonuovo 21 Theater, with its soft sofa cushions and warm marble walls, brings together old friends who have not seen each other for a long time. Breaking the solidification of class and power, the charm exuded by haute couture can be warm or casual everyday.
Tod's interpretation of Italian fashion aesthetics is more straightforward, with "Italian Feeling" as the theme of this season, creative director Walter Chiapponi has completed the extension of basic pieces through exquisite traditional craftsmanship, while the changing layers of color layers have rejuvenated the style of contemporary urban women's high-end wardrobes, and the comfortable Italian style is infused with vibrant contemporary elegance.
Bottega Veneta and Gucci are also two of the most anticipated fashion brands at Milan Fashion Week this season. The former's third series with new creative director Matthieu Blazy and the final chapter of the "Italy" trilogy is quite a tribute and inspiration.
After a short running-in period, 81 sets of looks showed surprises both in terms of volume and fashion itself. From the street, all kinds of pedestrians are also the designer's muse, some strolling in pajamas made of leather, some dressing themselves up as earth goddesses and flower goddesses from Botticelli's "Spring", and office ladies hurrying out of the office with trench coats, unique individuals meet in the same time and space, and the romantic mood is like the line that sounds in the show music: "OK, just keep walking down the street." ......”
Needless to say, Bottega Veneta's vision of choosing a "partner" is quite unique. Matthie Blazy, who resisted the pressure, not only helped Bottega Veneta erase Daniel Lee's personal identity, but also successfully enhanced and deepened the brand's public image through the extreme use of fabrics and tailoring.
Liu Wen, who chose to return to fashion week, Sun Feifei, who came back after giving birth, walked the catwalk, and opened a social media account on Weibo before the show, these operations also put an "information bomb" on the market, and the relationship between the Chinese market and Bottega Veneta will be closer, and this is also the beginning of the new Bottega Veneta chapter.
Meanwhile, Gucci, whose new creative director has yet to arrive, has chosen the same "creative collaboration" approach as Louis Vuitton to get through a short gap.
53 looks, connecting the brand's creative culture at different stages with a playful contemporary perspective. Exaggerated shoulder pads and silhouettes are a recreation of the sexy and glamorous Gucci look of the 1990s and early 2000s, while sheer tulle and noble velvet fabricated ready-to-wear that conforms to the curves of the body, while crystal-encrusted GG underwear and feathered bearskin hats reveal the brand's rich and diverse creativity.
This season's autumn/winter Milan Fashion Week has seen the long-sluggish traditional haute couture return to its former charm through its volume, diversity and innovative and rich fashion language. At the same time, it is also a good start for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2023.
What kind of fashion feast it will be, what kind of opportunities and thoughts it will bring to the entire industry, it is inevitable to think about it. WWD
Written by Mango
Edited by yalta, Russell
Image source: Brand official and online