At that time, it was Milan time
The schedule is more dense
The show is also more "fascinating"
It's not just the "myths" of fabrics, craftsmanship and colours nourished in Milan
It is also because many of the "enigmas" of ideas need to be pondered repeatedly to understand the secret
After watching this season of Milan Fashion Week, we can be sure
Behind this "mystery" is the "rice (beauty)" that is not bound by the stereotype
is coming into our field of vision and becoming part of the wardrobe of the future
Gucci's Fall/Winter 2023 womenswear collection is still being co-created by the brand's in-house design team to fill the gap ahead of the debut of new creative director Sabato De Sarno. Many members of this large and well-defined team have been with Gucci for a decade or even two, and they are familiar with the creative styles of the past, from Tom Ford to Alessandro Michele. Therefore, in this series that inherits the past and the future, the echo and series of Gucci's creative culture at different stages unfold, juxtaposing brand archives from different eras, like a free shuttle that breaks the boundaries of time and space. The opening rhinestone-embellished double G logo corset clearly combines the bold sensuality of the Tom Ford period with the opulent vintage of the Alessandro Michele period, and the extended fur coat, unisex suit, sheer layering, all fine-tuned in silhouette and proportions to suit the current fashion trend. At the end of the show, the closing of supermodel Guinevere van Seenus announced the end of this time and space journey, and made people look forward to where the next stop of the Gucci spacecraft will go.
Gucci Fall/Winter 2023 collection
After a critically acclaimed debut, Etro Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo decided to challenge himself to create a new collection from the brand's bohemian style of the '70s, digging into the brand's timeless printing and textile know-how, a first for De Vincenzo, but he was acutely aware that these traditions had to serve reality. Wrapped in a secure coloured striped shawl in a pleated printed chiffon dress and a vintage floral pattern stretching from a knit to a patent-leather jacket, De Vincenzo cuts off the continuity of the label's classic paisley print, rearranged on the textile with a subtle texture but no vertigo. "I feel like an archaeologist who has to face the past while bringing his discoveries to the present day," he admits. ”
Etro Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Chinese designer Rico returns to Milan with a new collection "Rebuilding the Ancient Road" from his personal brand Ricostru. From the name of the series, it can be seen that a journey to the East that transcends time and space is about to begin. Designer Rico's inspiration comes from the ancient tea horse road that travels through thousands of years, and tells the story of the entire series about "preservation", "dialogue", "transformation" and "reconstruction" through the thinking process of architectural restoration. Yunnan traditional handmade silverware, Mabang traditional handmade leather goods, and ancient Dongba characters and other ethnic non-genetic inheritance elements are extracted and preserved in the design, and the dialogue with industrial craftsmanship, futuristic metallic fabrics and environmentally friendly leather, through the brand's iconic "suspended hourglass" silhouette in recent seasons, bringing traditional culture into the context of modern fashion, leather goods, fashion jewelry and lifestyle products launched simultaneously under this concept also indicate more imagination for future life.
Ricostru Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Since the appointment of Fendi Womenswear Art Director Kim Jones, his collaboration with the Maison's family has continued to unfold, forming an increasingly powerful creative golden triangle with Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi. This season, however, his eyes are focused on Delfina, the youngest of the three, as the best portrayal of Fendi women in the present, "I still remember Delfina wearing a blue and brown suit on my first day on the job, and I was very impressed. "It all started with Delfina, and I was fascinated by the way she interpreted Fendi in an elegant and chic way." "Since she was a child, Delfina has fallen in love with mature and stable dark clothes under the eyes of the elders of the family, and she has a calm temperament that surpasses her peers, which can be seen from every big show call in the past. Based on this, Jones evokes a sense of luxury in women's everyday wear with Fendi's craftsmanship, while drawing inspiration from the geometric prints from Karl Lagerfeld's Fall/Winter 1996 collection for Fendi to add a different sparkle to the new season knitwear and evening dresses.
Fendi Fall/Winter 2023 collection
When we think of Max Mara, nothing comes to mind more than winter hot teddy coats and classic 101801 coats. For the latest collection, creative director Ian Griffiths wants to shatter our imagination about the brand. He drew feminine wisdom from the 18th-century Marquise de Châtelet, the great French mathematician, and incorporated elegant romantic styles into modern women's wardrobes, "at a time when fashion was completely unenlightened." So I'm imagining how she would have dressed if she had freedom, and how she would wear it today. "The metallic camel brocade is shaped into a suit suitable for everyday wear, and the clean lines of black brocade exude a delicate look and feel like a bronze sculpture, and there is no doubt that these runway shapes achieve a delicate balance of sensibility and rationality.
Max Mara Fall/Winter 2023 collection
This season's inspiration for Blumarine's creative director Nicola Brognano came as a "surprise", and while he was still obsessed with getting new ideas from the millennial, model and actress Milla Jovovich's stills in the 1999 film The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc ignited his creative passion, and with it the brand identity in the center of the runway. Fortunately, Brognano did not repeat the cold armor in the film, but instead replaced it with a glittering pleated wrap skirt, a leather tunic, and the butterfly corset and low-rise pants that were popular in the first two seasons also evolved into a thick knitted version, allowing the brand to release more vigorous vitality, "I just focus on what I have done at Blumarine so far, trying to push it forward and make it evolve into something new." ”
Blumarine Fall/Winter 2023 collection
In both a traditional and modern sense, Italy symbolizes the supremacy of craftsmanship and texture in clothing and footwear. Behind those seemingly uneventful models, the complex processes and craftsmanship behind them are often unimaginable. At Tod's Fall/Winter 2023, the theme is "Italian Feeling", which takes us to immerse ourselves in the essence of Italian craftsmanship. In classic grey, camel and cream tones, the delicate leather is carefully tuned to transform into the model's extra-long leather coat, tunic trousers and soft shirt, while the combination of wool, leather and cotton also gives the sportswear a luxurious texture. Walter Chiapponi explains, and the series of rhinestone-embellished dresses that appear on the runway offer a rare alternative to Tod's – a new option for elegant evenings.
Tod's Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Designer Glenn Martens not only breathed new life into Diesel, but also completely took denim's status in haute couture to a new level. Don't just be seduced by the mountain of condom boxes in the middle of the runway, the new collection worn by the models is the heart of the real wow. Remember the trompe l'oeil trick he tried in his personal brand? This time, Diesel is no longer content to be just a trompe l'oeil, but to see is to believe: using Diesel's own denim devoré firing process, Martens was able to show the effect of fabric wear and tear in the design, embellished with a touch of crystal, and immediately transformed the street-inspired denim dress into a red carpet evening dress. Laser-cut tannins also have a torn or frame-like structure, which evolves into a richer texture over time, which is eye-opening.
Diesel Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Roberto Cavalli's wild beauty may not apply to everyone, but Fausto Puglisi's creative heritage deserves everyone's applause. In the current situation where street style and haute couture are pulling each other and becoming more and more chaotic, Puglisi shows his absolute sincerity and defends the seductive aesthetic of his identity. The first to appear in the various rhinestones and artificial fur stitches, created by the brand in cooperation with a Japanese factory, simulate the form of animal fur spilled with dew, which is a rare protective color for modern strong women. Also a denim reinvention, Puglisi's ingredients are collected from all over Italy, spliced and polished, and these denim dresses still exude a bohemian laid-back sensuality. The finale is a black lace and beaded embellished gown, inspired by an old photograph by Kate Moss and now enchanting and dangerous under the interpretation of supermodel Mariacarla Boscono, which is undoubtedly the best illustration of Roberto Cavalli's spirit.
Roberto Cavali Fall/Winter 2023 collection
When it comes to Emporio Armani's themes each season, Mr. Armani has always been eclectic. At the same time as the new collection is being released this season, a new exhibition at the Armani/Silos gallery in Milan, Guy Bourdin: Storyteller, is about to open. Therefore, this Emporio Armani show echoes the creative style of photographer Guy Bourdin, in terms of color. Bordin excels at using intense colour tones to express individuality and desire, and in Mr. Armani's rich and saturated palette this season, the annual pop colours magenta is combined with blue, purple and turquoise to create a vibrant poetry, allowing elegance and vibrancy to go hand in hand.
Emporio Armani Fall/Winter 2023 collection
More than five years into their tenure, Jil Sander creative duo Luke and Lucie Meier clearly didn't want to stick the brand into the trap of "minimalism", but instead led the brand with a unique perspective on fabric and texture into a new phase. This can be seen from the first motorcycle jacket shape in the opening. At the same time, the song All Neon Like, which reverberates in the background of the show, also literally reveals the core focus of the Meiers this season: color. Unlike the soft cream tones of the previous season, the colors chosen for this season's Fall/Winter collection are more vivid and eye-catching, with grass green, electric blue, and rose pink all appearing on the runway in full-body shapes, and some styles are embellished with oversized painterly prints, to which Luke explains very bluntly, "We wanted to make something uplifting, express simple and positive feelings." ”
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Don't overlook the energy of crossover creations, design inspiration brought in from outside the fashion system can often unlock unexpected potential. As the fourth season of Ferrari's collection, the racing aesthetic of the brand's high-performance sports cars is increasingly evident in their design. "Beauty is the pleasure of speed, hidden in the initial explosion of racing, in its full symbolism and design potential. It originates from the wonderful flow of ideas, a unique aesthetic that captures the beauty of whiskers, a harbinger and sign of what is to come. Creative Director Rocco Iannone combines the bold and unrestrained colours commonly used in sports car aesthetics, from striking phosphors to deep burgundy reds, in a harmonious contrast of shades and shades, visually reminiscent of the roar of the engine and the speed of passion.
Ferrari Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Written by: Shanlai
Edited by Yang Yi
Backstage photo by Acielle Style DuMonde
Design: Xiaoni