The fashion world in the first half of 2022 will see five high-profile series launches, both the return debuts of talented designers and the debuts of designers who have taken over the creative power of the brand for the first time.
Among these are Nigo, who is regarded as the originator of Japanese street fashion, Phoebe Philo, who once set off a trend of minimalism and is still being imitated today, Matthieu Blazy, who "suddenly" became the creative director of Bottega Veneta, from an obscure design second in command, and Camille Miceli, Serhat I k and Benjamin A. Huseby, who were entrusted with the task of reviving the brand.
Phoebe Philo and Bernard Arnault, Chairman of the Board and CEO of the LVMH Group
In a sense, these halo-clad designers, who are now once again in the industry's attention, also show the general trend of the fashion industry moving towards more radical change.
Nigo takes the helm of Kenzo, the second echelon of the LVMH Group, which is seen as a sign of the latter's complete embrace of street trends; LVMH Group helped Phoebe Philo build a personal brand, which is seen as a paving for the launch of a new brand and the expansion of the brand camp; after announcing the departure of Daniel Lee from Bottega Veneta, Kering quickly announced that Matthieu Blazy will succeed Daniel Lee as the new creative director. The move shows Kering's ambition to take a more aggressive approach to getting brands to buy faster stages of development, while Camille Miceli, the new artistic director of Emilio Pucci, and Serhat I k, Benjamin A. Huseby, who became trussardi's new creative director, reveal the brand's strategic logic of eagerness to achieve a new life through star designers.
In May 2021, LVMH announced the acquisition of the remaining 33% stake in the founder family of its Italian luxury brand Emilio Pucci, thereby achieving 100% control of the brand. Then, in September, LVMH announced Camille Miceli as emilio Pucci's new artistic director.
Sidney Toledano, CEO of LVMH, said: "Camille Miceli's extensive experience and expertise in product development will help inject fresh ideas into Emilio Pucci." Prior to joining Emilio Pucci, Camille Miceli was Creative Director of Accessories at Louis Vuitton and worked for Dior and Chanel. She also began her career as a PR internship at Chanel, followed by collaboration with renowned designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Azzedine Ala a, Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière.
Camille Miceli 和 Nicolas Ghesquière
In an interview with WWD last year, Camille Miceli said: "I've been lucky enough to work with these great designers and I've learned a lot from them. "For joining Emilio Pucci, Camille Miceli wanted to show the positive and optimistic side of this Florentine fashion house, so she decided to go back to its roots and make Emilio Pucci a holiday-focused brand." It's more about lifestyle, the way of life that inspires me the most," says Camille Miceli, who is half Italian.
Emilio Pucci Spring 2022 Collection
Since being controlled by the LVMH Group since 2000, Emilio Pucci has gone downhill. Especially after julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and Massimo Giorgetti, Emilio Pucci's brand image in the minds of consumers has become increasingly blurred. Emilio Pucci has also made many attempts, including inviting French designer Christelle Kocher and Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi as guest creative directors, as well as cross-border cooperation with street fashion brand Supreme.
Emilio Pucci and Supreme co-branded series
After working with Louis Vuitton, Nigo's relationship with the LVMH Group has clearly taken a step further. In September last year, LVMH announced that Nigo, regarded as one of the originators of Japanese street trends, would succeed Felipe Oliveira Baptista as Kenzo's new creative director.
Nigo
Nigo's addition is also the third Asian-American creative director appointed by the brand, after designer groups Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, whose brand debut will be showcased at Paris Fashion Week at the end of this month. Interestingly, Nigo was born in 1970, while Kenzo Takada opened the brand's first store in Paris in the same year, and both graduated from the Nippon Institute of Culture and Fashion. The year he graduated, Nigo founded A Bathing Ape, while Kenzo Takada sold Kenzo to the LVMH Group.
Kenzo's Fall/Winter 2021 collection
In 2011, Nigo sold A Bathing Ape to Hong Kong's I.T Group for $2.8 million, then left A Bathing Ape in 2013 to create a new brand, Human Made. In 2014, Nigo became creative director of UNIQLO's UT series; in 2020, Nigo's Human Made and Louis Vuitton menswear under the leadership of Virgil Abloh launched a joint collaboration, and the series received a positive response from the market as soon as it was launched, and many products were sold out.
Nigo's joint collaboration with Louis Vuitton
The addition of Nigo also reflects LVMH's determination to accelerate the development of the second tier brand. From Givenchy's Matthew Williams to Louis Vuitton's Virgil Abloh, to Kim Jones' frequent cross-border collaborations with Dior menswear and Nigo's helm of Kenzo, LVMH's full embrace of street trends shows lvmh's embrace of street trends. For Nigo, industry insiders also pointed out that Nigo's street culture background and market appeal will inject new pop culture value into Kenzo.
In November 2021, without any warning, Daniel Lee announced that he would leave Bottega Veneta, leaving the market with a state of surprise and surprise. Just five days after the news, Kering announced that it would promote Matthieu Blazy, the brand's ready-to-wear design director, to succeed Daniel Lee as the new creative director of the brand, and his brand debut will be showcased at Milan Fashion Week.
Matthieu Blazy
Born in Paris in 1984, Matthieu Blazy joined Bottega Veneta in June 2020 after co-working with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein 205W39NYC as Director of Ready-to-Wear Design. Prior to that, he worked at Celine under Phoebe Philo and spent four years at Maison Margiela, where he was responsible for the design of Artisanal's haute couture collections.
Matthieu Blazy 和 Raf Simons
Kering's promotion of the obscure Matthieu Blazy is obviously eyeing his rich field of ready-to-wear design, and promoting a designer whose design style is similar to Daniel Lee can also reduce the risk of style continuation. Daniel Lee's explosive strategy at Bottega Veneta has ushered in a period of rapid development for the brand, but the brand has never been able to open the market in the field of ready-to-wear, so it has limited the development of the brand to a certain extent, so the addition of Matthieu Blazy is also regarded as the key to leveraging the brand ready-to-wear market.
On July 12, Phoebe Philo, who had been dormant for four years, announced his return. She will launch her personal brand with the support of the LVMH Group as a "minority investor" and become the sole shareholder outside of LVMH.
Phoebe Philo told WWD: "Over the years, I have developed a very constructive and creative partnership with the LVMH Group. Therefore, reconnecting this new project is a natural process for us. I am very grateful to have discussed new ideas with Bernard Arnault and Delphine Arnault and am excited to start this adventure with their support. ”
Phoebe Philo
Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, called Phoebe Philo "one of the most talented designers of our time". Commenting on the collaboration, he said: "We have known her and appreciated her for a long time. Over the years, Phoebe Philo has contributed to the success of the Group through her outstanding creations. With that in mind, I'm excited to partner with Phoebe Philo on her entrepreneurial adventure and wish her great success." ”
According to Phoebe Philo, people will see more details about the new brand in January 2022, and the brand will not follow the traditional fashion week schedule, but choose to launch new products in a way that suits their own rhythm. After fading out of fashion for many years, Phoebe Philo still has a large number of loyal consumers who share Phoebe Philo's design, values and feminism.
Celine's Fall/Winter 17 collection
At the same time, Phoebe Philo's former assistants have also come out to take the lead and become the successors of the Phoebe Philo mantle, such as Daniel Lee. Therefore, LVMH Group's investment to help Phoebe Philo create a personal brand is intended to once again test the market acceptance of new brands through Phoebe Philo's market appeal, so as to expand the brand camp later, inject fresh blood into it, and at the same time snatch back the former consumers from the hands of "Phoebe Philo imitators".
Last May, Italian fashion house Trussardi, founded in 1911, announced the appointment of creative duo Benjamin Huseby and Serhat I k as the brand's new creative directors. Benjamin Huseby and Serhat I k are also co-founders and designers of GmbH, a cutting-edge Brand in Berlin. This year, they will be showcasing their brand debut at Trussardi.
Benjamin Huseby 与 Serhat I k
How avant-garde ideas transform the "dying" Italian veteran is naturally the focus of attention. In response, the two designers said in an interview that they will inject GmbH design concepts into Trussardi and enhance the brand's tolerance and participation in social issues.
GmbH Spring/Summer 2022 collection
Trussardi's appointment also filled the three-year vacancy of the brand's creative director. At the same time, it can also be seen that the brand wants to renew its brand image through Benjamin Huseby and Serhat I k, attracting the urgent desire of the new generation of consumers. Leveraging the creative power of young pioneers to renew the brand image is a tried-and-true strategy of fashion veterans in recent years. Handing over creative power to designers who understand the younger generation of consumers can undoubtedly help brands achieve a more rapid transformation of youth, and can also help brands establish more effective communication channels with young consumers.
Trussardi's Spring/Summer 2022 collection
Therefore, Benjamin Huseby and Serhat I k joined Trussardi, which surprised the industry and made people have high expectations, and how Trussardi achieved a new life will soon be answered. WWD
Written by Karlie
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