Reporter: Du Wei, Ding Zhouyang, Editor: Wen Duo
The sound of firecrackers during the Spring Festival of the Lunar Year of the Snake still seems to be echoing in the ears, and a group of special "grandma models" have received new invitations to walk the runway.
As a result, they are "busier" than the office workers who return to work: they go out early in the morning, train intensively, carefully prepare dresses, and discuss with teachers what kind of makeup to prepare.
"Every year, we have at least three events in Chengdu (big silver age model shows), and now there are more and more events like this all over the country. Even for going to overseas countries such as Paris to walk the catwalk, the enthusiasm of the silver-aged sisters is also very high. Zhang Xiya, the chief show director of the Sichuan Division of the World Supermodel Competition, the president of the Sichuan Federation of China Model Industry Federation, and the founder of the IP of "Fanghua's peerless sister", said in an interview with a reporter from the "Daily Economic News" (later, we will call her Asya in the way Zhang Xiya likes).
Silver-aged model walks on the catwalk Image source: Courtesy of the interviewee
In the public's perception, being a model, walking the runway, and showing fashion seem to be the exclusive territory of young people; Now, however, more and more silver-haired people are learning to catwalk, standing in the spotlight, and breaking this stereotype with their charm and confidence. "After retirement, we are not just the elders of the family who have grandchildren. Beauty, regardless of age, and the excitement of life is by no means limited to youth. Pan Yang (pseudonym), a 64-year-old silver-aged sister, smiled at reporters.
In-depth into this active "modern silver age" group, the "Daily Economic News" reporter learned that their average age is more than 60 years old, and even more than 80 years old, 90 years old, many people have vision loss, and some people wear hearing aids, but these physical limitations did not prevent them from going on the catwalk and showing their style. The persistence and efforts of the silver-aged models have brought to the society not only a simple fashion show, but a bold attempt to redefine the new concept of cultural pension, and an exploration of the economic potential of silver-haired.
It is worth noting that the reporter learned in an interview that now, on the training track of silver-aged models, there are not only internationally renowned designers Hu Sheguang, professional models and other professionals, but also people engaged in makeup training, child model training, dance training, and even tourism companies are also pouring in. "I think it's a good sign that the needs of the silver-haired people are being seen." Hu Sheguang told the reporter of "Daily Economic News".
Hu Sheguang (middle) will create 30 or 40 catwalk activities for the silver-aged sisters every year Image source: provided by the interviewee
Joy yourself: 8,000 yuan to buy costumes, 90 years old on the runway
"Who says we can't be fashionable when we're retired and have gray hair? I like to walk the runway, stand on it, be very confident, and I feel like I'm not losing to the youngsters. Pan Yang told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that she has been studying modeling for 6 years and has appeared on many catwalks in large and small activities.
In 2019, on the recommendation of a friend, Pan Yang began to study modeling locally. "To join the team, you must first purchase equipment, attend classes twice a week, and spend thousands of yuan per month on training." Pan Yang introduced.
In 2021, Pan Yang will officially retire and have more time to go to the catwalks in major cities, and the outfits she has purchased for the catwalk have already exceeded 10,000 yuan. Pan Yang showed reporters a set of exquisite dresses, cheongsams, etc. in the wardrobe, as well as dozens of pairs of "hating the sky" that are only suitable for the catwalk.
"My most expensive dress is more than 8,000 yuan, and I go to other places to walk the catwalk at my own expense." However, when it comes to these expenses, Pan Yang said with a smile that compared with her teammates, she is still very economical and restrained. Some of the catwalks that these teammates go to, "(charged) 50,000 yuan to start", there will be well-known teams such as "Mao Geping" to do makeup.
Like Pan Yang, in recent years, more and more silver-haired people have begun to walk on the runway, and they are not stingy with "pleasing themselves".
Althea (award presenter) created the "Fanghua Peerless Sister Season 1" model contest for the silver-haired person Image source: provided by the interviewee
"In the past, we had the impression of the elderly, who worked hard to support their families in the first half of their lives, and finally had some time and retirement funds in the second half of their lives, and they were all subsidized for their children. This habit of thinking has indeed changed a lot now, starting from the 'post-60s', the elderly are willing to spend their money and time on themselves after retirement. Althea has been a judge in many professional supermodel competitions in China, and she told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that according to her observation, many silver-aged models who come to learn the shape of models are mostly because they did not have such opportunities and stages when they were young, so they regained their dreams after retirement.
"They come to the model training class, they are on stage, they are happy, and we will also take them to other cities across the country to participate in catwalk performances," said Athea. (This) will incur a certain amount of expenses in accommodation, food and transportation, which is a kind of tourism and a new consumer experience. I think this kind of consumption is gratifying. ”
"Behind the retirement of wearing beautiful clothes and walking on the runway is a core appeal of 'being yourself'." Hu Sheguang, an internationally renowned fashion designer, said in an interview with a reporter from the "Daily Economic News".
"In the past 7 years, we have served tens of thousands of seniors. Every year, I will design costumes at different prices for my sisters, hold different activities, and hold 30~40 theme conferences, so that each sister can choose according to their actual situation. Some sisters participate in the event once a year, and some sisters come every year. Hu Sheguang introduced.
"Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army" Image source: provided by the interviewee
In Hu Sheguang's view, haute couture is a service in itself. He further introduced: "I not only design costumes for them, but also how to wear costumes and how to perform them through training to these sisters who trust me. ”
At present, the "Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army" has become the most active group of "silver-age models" in China, "roughly calculated, (the country) is about thousands (model teams)". Hu Sheguang told reporters: "The oldest of them is 90 years old. I hope that the 'Silver Age Sister' can bloom her fashion dreams on this runway. ”
The silver-aged model on the Asya team is active on the catwalks at multiple events Image source: provided by the interviewee
"I think spending power is not the only criterion for judging [the silver-haired people], but the interest consumption is what the silver-haired people really focus on." Talking about the consumption characteristics and changes of the "silver-aged sisters", Hu Sheguang told reporters that the silver-haired group is a very special consumer group, and the consumption power is based on long-term trust.
Hu Sheguang also said: "Maybe it is inevitable to grow old, but no matter what age you are, you should be respected, respect your dreams, and deserve to be respected by everyone and society." ”
Expansion: The world's top designers and professional models have left the stage
Ten years ago, Hu Sheguang designed the "Northeast Cotton Jacket" dress for star Zhang Xinyu on the red carpet of the opening ceremony of the 68th Cannes Film Festival, which not only made him famous in the design circle and fashion industry, but also made his name into the public eye. Now, Hu Sheguang has shifted his focus to the "silver-aged sisters" and regards it as his career in the second half of his life.
Zhang Xinyu (left) on the red carpet catwalk in Cannes, Hu Sheguang's manuscript of "Northeast Cotton Jacket" (right) Image source: provided by the interviewee
"When it comes to the establishment of 'Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army', it is accidental and inevitable." Hu Sheguang told the "Daily Economic News" reporter. In 2018, he opened his own fashion art studio in Wuhan. In a chance visit, several middle-aged and elderly women who love fashion gave Hu Sheguang a new idea, so there was the first training and stage of the "Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army". "In retrospect, it should be said that it is an extension of oriental beauty, and to carry fashionable oriental aesthetics through clothing, it also needs to have an oriental face to wear, it has nothing to do with age, it is a kind of temperament, and it is a kind of backbone flowing in the blood."
In the same year, the "post-90s" professional model Althea also paid attention to the market demand of the "middle-aged and elderly model team". "We held a middle-aged and elderly model competition of "Silk Road: Golden Years", and since then, many middle-aged and elderly sisters are willing to follow me to learn professional model catwalk performance." Althea introduced.
However, in the eyes of industry insiders such as Hu Sheguang and Althea, training older models is very different from young models.
"For young models, the catwalk is a career, it is the basis for making a living, fashion is constantly changing, young models have to adapt to the current trend, constantly improve their catwalk skills, to meet the needs of different designers and different shows. For the silver-haired people, fashion is an experience, a manifestation of self-worth, and on top of basic catwalk skills, everyone can have their own style. Hu Sheguang told the "Daily Economic News" reporter.
"Fashion is played, there is no right or wrong in itself." This is a sentence that Hu Sheguang often hangs on his lips. In this regard, he further elaborated: "Beneath the trend is the change of skills of young models. For the silver-haired people, it is more like a display of style, and they can choose what kind of clothes to wear and what kind of show to participate in according to their preferences. I hope that my sisters can meet a different self in fashion, be more energetic in fashion, be healthier through training, and gain happiness and happiness. ”
"Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army" Image source: provided by the interviewee
According to the Blue Book of the Silver Economy: Report on the Development of China's Silver Economy (2024), the current scale of the mainland's silver economy is about 7 trillion yuan, and by 2035, the scale of the silver economy is expected to reach 30 trillion yuan. In front of the huge cake, professionals like Hu Sheguang and Althea have already begun to play the "elderly model team". Will more companies be eyeing the elderly model market next?
"There are a lot of them now! Speaking of the fashion field alone, there have been many industries that have begun to cross the border into the field of silver hair, some do makeup training, some do child model training, some do dance training, and more tourism companies have begun to do cross-border silver fashion travel photography. There are also various beauty pageants that have opened cross-border competitions, and many clothing brands have also begun to broaden their audience groups, and now middle-aged and elderly models are really blooming everywhere. Hu Sheguang said.
The industry has also begun to roll: the price of customized clothing has dropped from 4,000 yuan to 1,000 yuan
"At present, the industry has also begun to roll." Althea lamented to the reporter of "Daily Economic News" that the price of the "volume" in the industry is now one thing, and there are all kinds of events that are only profitable. Althea hopes that silver-aged model lovers can love it, but don't blindly follow it.
At the 2024 Autumn and Winter Shanghai Fashion Week, Hu Sheguang invited 79-year-old Wang Deshun (2nd from left) to reinterpret the "Northeast Cotton Jacket" Image source: provided by the interviewee
Regarding the fierce market competition, Hu Sheguang also said: "It is false to say that there is no pressure. I also started a two-legged approach, upgrading my core products and improving my service. Silver-haired people are more rational and cautious in consumption, must have a long-term trust as the foundation, adhere to not deceive, do not exaggerate, and really move forward with heart. ”
There are more practitioners and cheaper prices, which is also the market competition pressure that entrepreneurs of elderly model training courses are currently facing. A "silver-haired sister" who participated in the model class told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that according to her observation, this year's training fee for both the model class and the price of model clothing are much lower than in previous years. For example, she said: "In the high-end training courses I participated in before, the customized clothing was as high as 4000~5000 yuan, and now it is about 1000 yuan. ”
Silver age model Image source: provided by the interviewee
According to the report "Research on the Consumption Demand Trend of Energetic Silver-haired People in the Blue Ocean of Consumption Power in the New Era in 2024" released by Black Ant Capital, the new silver-haired people generally make rational consumption decisions and pay attention to the quality-price ratio. Despite the current affluence, the new silver-haired people are stepping on the trend of the times and striving to improve their lives, knowing that it is not easy to make money, with rich life experience, they generally follow the rational consumption concept of "living within their means", the upper limit of monthly spending is their own pension, and at the same time, they just need to spend daily habits to shop around or listen to the recommendations of acquaintances around them to buy, and get the highest quality-price ratio of consumption experience.
"The silver-aged sisters want to please themselves, which is not in conflict with spending money in a planned way, but we need to be wary of the temptation of 'fake commercialization'." Althea told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that driven by more and more middle-aged and elderly model enthusiasts, more middle-aged and elderly people are on the runway.
At present, the silver-aged model industry is still in the stage of self-experience and consumption, and practitioners have not formed a real understanding and pursuit of the profession. But Althea found: "There are some companies or institutions in the market, under the guise of helping silver-haired people incubate IP and help them 'commercialize'. ”
Althea told reporters: "Some of my students have also been to Beijing, Hangzhou and other places for personal IP incubation before, and some have tried live broadcast anchors, with a success rate of only 1%. ”
According to the latest China Statistical Yearbook 2024, in 2023, the number of people aged 65 and above in mainland China will reach 216.76 million, the proportion of the population aged 65 and above in mainland China will reach 15.4% of the total population, and the old-age dependency ratio will be 22.5%. In the face of the strong demand of the silver-haired group and the broad silver-haired economic market, as a silver-aged model on the segmented track, how to further release the consumption power?
Sister Yinling is wearing a costume designed by Hu Sheguang Image source: provided by the interviewee
"Fashion is an attitude to life and a way of life. I hope to maintain the original intention of making the silver-aged sisters 'healthy and happy', and use the 'Hu Sheguang Fashion Women's Army' as the IP, try different cross-borders, create different fashion scenes for the sisters, bring them high-quality experience, and let the sisters gain a better self in fashion." Hu Sheguang told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that fashion is all-encompassing, and there are many contents that can be carried, such as clothing, shows, tourism, food and other different fields, which can stimulate new consumption scenarios for silver-haired people.
Althea told the "Daily Economic News" reporter that she wants to tap the potential of elderly consumer demand and upgrade and expand the capacity of the silver economy by constantly enriching the way of learning products. "No matter in any industry, only through learning and growth, can there be more quality consumption."
National Business Daily