Pale white pear blossom noodles
When Tang poems and Song ci describe women, they often mention pink sweat, that is, when beautiful people sweat, powder and sweat. For example, Tang Shiquan's "Twelve Songs of Jade Body": "Pink khan should be oblique to the sun, and the fragrance of clothes is catching up." Yuan Shu "Send Wu Shi Zhi Duan Gong Fifty Rhymes": "The kite's jade finger tune, pink sweat and red silk swab." Yuan Shu's "Twenty Songs of Shengchun": "Willow mistakenly cries pearls, and Plum frightens powder and sweat melts." Bai Juyi's "A Hundred Rhymes of Spring Poems and Sleepwalking": "Zhu Li is evenly fingered, and pink sweat is red and puffy." Mengjiao has a saying: "Fighting grass is a straw, and the powder sweat is wide." Another example is the Song Ci you he zhu "Magnolia Flower": "Luo Xiang powder sweat and incense, the fingers left red a twist." Zhou Zizhi's "Bodhisattva Man": "The green moth lazy painting makeup is shallow, and the fragrant muscle is soft with hops." Pink sweat wet Wu Aya, jade hammer knock pillow edge. Wu Wenying's "Drunken Penglai Qixi and Fang Nanshan": "Ice sells powder sweat, and the southern flowers are smoked." ”
[Ming] Du Yan's "Picture Scrolls in the Palace" (partial), shanghai museum collection
Powder is an indispensable variety in ancient women's cosmetics, powder is also called "Hu powder", according to the Jin Dynasty Ge Hong's "Baopuzi Inner Chapter" "On Immortals" record: "Fools do not believe that Huang Dan and Hu Powder are made of lead. "Hu powder is actually lead powder. The Taiping Imperial Records quote Zhang Hua's Naturalist Chronicle: "Burn lead and tin to make powder." The Song Dynasty Gao Cheng's "Chronicle of Things" says that when King Wen of Zhou added lead powder to her face, women already used powder during the Warring States period, and "Han Feizi Xianxue" has: "Therefore, the beauty of good mao and Xi Shi is not beneficial to my face, and it is doubly original with fat powder." "Inside the makeup unearthed in Tomb No. 1 in Mawangdui is a small lacquerware powder box, as well as residual lead powder. Han Dynasty Liu Xi's "Interpretation of Names and Jewelry": "Hu Fan. Hu, Yu also. Lipiding to coat the surface also. Zhang Heng of the Han Dynasty", "Promise of Affection": "Thinking in the face is lead, suffering from god and having no light." Cao Zhi's "Luoshen Endowment": "Fangze Wujia, Lead Hua Fu Yu." During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Liu Xun's "Wenxin Carved Dragon Love Cai" says: "Fu Lead Hua is so decorated, and Pan Qian was born in Shuzi." ”
Many of the ladies in ancient paintings have increased the pink of the face and slightly added a faint red halo to the cheeks, such as the Tang Dynasty's "Lady Of hairpin flowers", the Song Dynasty's "Banana Shade Batting Chart", and the Yuan Dynasty's "Du Qiu Niang Picture Scroll" in the woman's face. There is also a painting method called "three white faces", which is to add powder to the forehead, nose and chin, so that the face can appear more three-dimensional. It is likely that women from the Northern Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty used this method of applying powder in makeup.
[Tang] Zhou Fang's "Picture of a Lady with a Hairpin Flower" (partial), liaoning provincial museum collection
[Northern Qi] Yang Zihua's "School Book Map", collected by the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, USA
Rouge and powder are the must-have items in the retail burden of the seller, such as the twenty-second time in "Golden Bottle Plum": "Since Huilian and Ximen Qing had an affair, the back is not counted with his clothes, sweat towels, jewelry, fragrant tea and the like." Only silver into two families to take with them, buy flower rouge powder at the head of the door, gradually revealed, dressed differently than before. ”
[Ming] "Xia Jing Cargo Lang Tu" (partial), beijing palace museum collection
Fu Fan is one of the skills of being an artist, such as the first time in "Jin Ping Mei": "(Pan Jinlian) sold in Wang Zhaoxuan's mansion at the age of nine, learned to play and sing, and would draw eyebrows and draw eyes, Fu Fan Shi Zhu." ”
The description of beauty in the "West Chamber" also has pink characters, such as the fourth fold of the first book: "Just like the sandalwood mouth point cherry, the pink nose leans on Qiong Yao, the pale white pear blossom face, and the light willow waist." Charming, full of faces, full of pretty; slim, a mess is really delicate. The third wedge: "My sister needle and thread are not willing to be picked, and the fat powder fragrance is lazy to add." The third fold: "He is a delicate and beautiful jade flawless, with a pink face and a cloudy sideburns." ”
The human face is red with peach blossoms
In the Tang Dynasty, Meng Di left a volume of "Benshi Poems", which recorded such a story. Cui Hu is a handsome man, who is proud of his integrity and pride, and has entered the Beijing Examination and fell into the list. On the day of the Qingming Dynasty, a person ran to the south of the capital city to play, and saw a manor the size of an acre of land, with flowers and trees, and the silence seemed to be unmanned. He knocked on the door to ask for water, and it took a long time for a girl to open the door. The woman let Cui Hu sit on the edge of the bed, and Cui Hu himself reclined on the peach tree, watching her "charming posture, enough yu Yan", Cui Hu said, the woman just stared at him but did not answer. When Cui Hu left, the woman was delivered to the door. Cui Hu looked forward to returning. In the qingming of the next year, Cui Hu suddenly remembered this woman in the south of the city, and he could not be suppressed and ran to find her. The door wall is the same, but the door is closed and locked, and there is no one in the house. Cui Hu inscribed a poem on the left door: "Last year and today in this door, people's faces were red with peach blossoms. The human face is only where it goes, and the peach blossoms are still smiling in the spring breeze. ”
[Tang] "Chess Lady Figure"
A few days later, Cui Hu accidentally went to the south of the city, went to look for the woman again, heard a cry in zhuang, and knocked on the door to ask what was going on. The woman's father came out and said, "You're Cui Huo, right?" Cui Hu replied, "Yes." The old man cried and said, "You killed my daughter." Cui Hu was very surprised and did not know what to say. The old man said: "My daughter and Zhen zhi nian read a lot of books, have not yet found an in-laws, since you came last year has been lost, the other day I went out with her back, she saw the poem on the door, she fell ill, for several days without eating before she died." I am old, the reason why my daughter did not marry, is to find a good family can also be for me to provide for the elderly, who knows that the daughter unfortunately died, is not you harmed? Cui Hu also cried with him, begged to enter, held the woman's head on his lap, and cried, "I am here!" I'm here! After a while, the woman's eyes opened and came alive. The woman's father was overjoyed and gave the woman Xu to Cui Huo.
This story is the source of the "human face peach blossom". The "peach blossoms on the face of the person" mentioned in the poem means that the pink face is as beautiful as the peach blossom, and the "peach blossom" can also refer to the makeup. The "Makeup Table" has: "Sui Wen Palace combs nine real buns, and red makeup is called peach blossom noodles." "Red makeup is called peach blossom face, also known as peach blossom makeup. Peach blossom faces can be seen in many paintings from the Tang Dynasty to the Fifth Dynasty.
[Tang] "Hu Costume Beauty"
The song dynasty Gao Cheng's "Chronicle of Things" Volume III also records: "When King Wen of Zhou was king, women began to fu lead powder. In the palace of Qin Shi Huang, The red makeup is green eyebrows, and the beginning of this makeup is also. Song Wu Palace Lady, serving the difference of Shouyang falling plums, made plum blossom makeup. In the Sui Wen Palace, red makeup is called peach blossom noodles. Liang Jianghong's "Yong Ge Ji" of the Southern Dynasty has a wonderful description of red makeup: "Thin sideburns are about yellowish, light red and light lead face." Xin Renjie's "Manjiang Hong, Late Spring" wrote that "red pink goes with the flowing water", and uses red pink as a metaphor for beauty. Written between the Song and Yuan dynasties, the "Shi Lin Guang Ji" records the "Jade Girl Peach Blossom Powder", the use of jade girl, peach blossom name makeup powder is a flexible application of allusions, the preparation of this powder is quite complex, composed of motherwort ash, plaster, talc, mussel powder, rouge, etc., it is said to be able to "slip muscles, eliminate spots, stand posture".
Appliquéd yellow to the mirror
In addition to the red makeup mentioned above, women's face makeup also has white makeup, ink makeup, purple makeup, forehead yellow makeup, cry makeup, etc., which have become popular before the Six Dynasties. White makeup is to apply white powder to the face, and the cheeks are not covered with rouge. Ink makeup is popular in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, which refers to the non-application of powder and the use of Dai to decorate the face. Purple makeup is finished with purple. The "Notes on Ancient and Modern Times" records: "The absolute favorites of the people in emperor Wei Wen's palace were Mo Qiongshu, Xue Yelai, Chen Shangyi, and Duan Qiaoxiao, all of whom were on the emperor's side day and night. ...... Qiao Xiao began with brocade silk shoes and purple powder. Volume 5 of the Northern Wei Jia Sixun's Qi Min Zhi Shu records the production method of purple powder: "Use three points of white rice and english powder, one point of Hu powder (no hu powder, no human face), and harmony and harmony." Take the sunflower seeds cooked and steamed, raw cloth stranded juice, and powder, daily exposure to dry. If the color is light, the juice is steamed and re-dyed as before. The "Compendium of Materia Medica" volume 27 "Falling Sunflower" entry is: "Its son is purple, the woman is stained with powder, and the face of Fu is a false color." ...... Fallen sunflowers are planted in March, and young seedlings are edible. Spreading in May, its leaves are like apricot leaves and thick and soft, suitable for vegetables and meat. In August and September, fine purple flowers bloom, fruitful, as large as schisandra, and when ripe, they are purple-black. Kneading juice, red as rouge, women's finishes, lips and dyeing cloth, called hu rouge, also known as dyeing, but long time the color is easy to change ears. ”
[Jin] Gu Kaizhi (biography) "Female History Zhentu" (partial), British Museum collection
Women's face makeup has been varied over the generations, and many materials have been used, and some of the makeup has romantic and legendary provenance. For example, the "plum blossom makeup" that has been popular for several dynasties is very legendary. Five generations ago, the poet Niu Yu's "Red Rose" poem had: "If you embellish the princess of Shouyang, the six palaces are willing to learn plum makeup." "The plum blossom makeup allusion in the poem is recorded in the "Taiping Royal Collection", saying that Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Liu Yu, the Emperor wu of the Southern Dynasty Song Dynasty, lay on her back on the seventh day of the first month of the first month of the first month, and a plum blossom fell from the plum tree in front of the palace, just glued to the princess's forehead, and the plum blossom was washed and left a five-petal plum blossom mark on the princess's forehead. The women in the palace followed suit, cutting a plum blossom shape and attaching it to their foreheads, calling it "plum blossom makeup". This kind of makeup spread to the folk and became fashionable, until the Tang Dynasty was very popular, and it was still used in the Song Dynasty. The Song Dynasty Ouyang Xiu's words "Appeal to Heartfelt Feelings" also mentions "plum blossom makeup": "In the early morning, the curtain rolls light frost, and the hand tries plum makeup." The capital has its own hatred, so the painting is far away from the mountains. Thinking about the past, cherishing the flow. Easy to injure. The song is first, the desire to laugh is also broken, and the most severed intestines. The words of the Southern Song Dynasty WangZao's "Drunken And Fallen" are: "The boat curtain gap, the beautiful person half exposed plum makeup, the green cloud low reflection flowers like a carving." Just like the autumn supper, half of the silver toad is white. ”
Another story is recorded in the "Makeup Lou" is also recorded: Wu Guosun and pleasing Mrs. Deng, let the lady sit on her lap, fiddle with the water essence, and accidentally injure the lady's cheek, and the blood drips all the way to the trouser belt. The doctor said that using white otter pulp, jade and amber powder to apply, can not leave scars. But in the end, it still leaves red spots on the face, which looks more feminine. Sun He's other concubines dot their cheeks with dan fat, hoping to gain favor.
The above two legends are believed to be related to the appearance of yellow makeup, because they are all dyed on the face. Forehead yellow makeup is applied yellow between the foreheads, originating from the Southern and Northern Dynasties or earlier. The yellow powder used to decorate the face is called forehead yellow, also known as "goose yellow", "crow yellow", "about yellow", "sticker yellow", "flower yellow" and so on. During the Southern Dynasty Liang Jianwen Emperor, the concubines in the palace were dyed yellow. There are also yellow cardboard or gold leaf cut into stars, moons, flowers, birds and other shapes pasted on the forehead, called flower yellow. For example, "Mulan Words" has: "When the window is cloudy, the mirror appliqué is yellow." Liang JianwenDi's poem "Drama gifts to beautiful people": "With An Qi Li Dial, Different Works Between the Foreheads." "Forehead yellow veneers were extremely popular in the Tang Dynasty, such as Li Shangyin's "Butterfly" poem: "Princess Shouyang made up when she was married, and the eyebrows of the Eight-Character Palace held forehead yellow." "Another Imitation of Jiangnan Song": "Sweep Dai open the palace forehead, cut the skirt about Chu waist." Wen Tingjun's poem "Zhaoying Song": "The Yellow Seal Forehead Mountain is light to dust, and the green scales are red and childish." ”
[Qing] Chen Chongguang's "Liu Xia Xiao Makeup Drawing" (partial), nanjing museum collection
Song Dynasty forehead yellow makeup continued to be popular. Song Dynasty Zhou Bangyan's "Ruilong Yin" words: "Because of the obsession of a person, at first glance at the portal." Invasion of the morning light about the palace yellow, obstacle wind reflecting sleeves, Yingying laughing. Liu Kezhuang's "He Groom And Then Use the Covenant Character" words: "Shallow Gong Huang Covenant." Fine end phase, Putuo smoke, golden body beads. Jiang Fu's "Horn Stroke" words: "Cui Qiao wants to slip away, loves Gong Huang, and now." Xin Abandoned Disease's "Partridge Heaven Fumei" Words: "Ice is bone, jade is rong, and the perennial palace forehead is cloud pine." Han Yu's "Xi Jiang Yue": "The sound of the harping is green, and the rose face is lined with palace yellow." ”
In the Qing Dynasty, Chu Ren was awarded the "Supplementary Collection of Jianhuan" volume III to record the face makeup of each dynasty: "The Saying of the Western Gods: The woman is evenly floured, and the ancient Only Shi Zhu Fu powder is only. To the Sixth Dynasty is also Still Yellow. "Ghost Record": 'Goddess Zhi qiong forehead yellow'. Liang Jianwen Emperor's poem: 'Tong'an Qi Li Dial, Different Works Forehead Yellow.' Wen Tingjun poem: "Forehead yellow infinite sunset mountain." And: "The Yellow Seal Mountain is light to dust." Another word: "Rui Huang is infinitely mountain forehead." 'Niu Yue's words: 'Forehead yellow invades greasy hair.' 'This forehead makeup also. Emperor Jing of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, linggong people 'yellow eyebrow ink makeup'. Ting Yun poem: "The willow wind blows away the yellow between the eyebrows." Zhang Yuzi: "According to the covenant, the old yellow eyebrows are rationalized." 'This eyebrow makeup also. "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" has 'Huang Xingjing'. In the Liao Dynasty, the women with color were fine women, and their faces were yellow, which was called Buddha makeup. Ting Yun words: 'The face is golden and thin. Li Heshi: "The palace people are yellow." Song PengRu's poem: "There are female maidens called delicate maidens, and the true pearls are yellowed." The southern people see the strange suspicion as a miasma, and the ink official boasts that it is Buddha makeup. 'This is face makeup also. ”
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