Yesterday, CHANEL's Spring/Summer 2022 haute couture collection was released at the Temporary Pavilion at the Grand Palais in Paris. Through this runway of landscapes, gardens and open stages, dreamlike dream scenes and exquisite haute couture dresses are combined to create an unforgettable aesthetic experience.
From Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld to today's Creative Director Virginia Viard, artistic origins are an integral element of CHANEL, no matter which legend is in charge. This time, for the first time, the brand entrusted the design of the live launch to a contemporary artist.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection Invitation
This time, artist Xavier Veilhan took on the heavy lifting. Born in 1963 in Lyon, southeastern France, the artist has been one of the younger generations since the 1990s. His works include painting, photography, sculpture, installation, etc., the most famous of which is the public sculpture made of 3D scanning.
He chose geometric rings and circular patterns as the main elements in the show installation, which echoed the modern exploration of avant-garde artists in the 1920s across time and space; at the same time, the design of the horse farm and theater not only presented the layout and functionality of the show, but also improved the sense of atmosphere of the space through the on-site design of the trail where the horse could walk the dog and the miniature golf course. Coupled with the use of inflatable devices and simple materials, the whole space is beautiful, full of light and elegant artistic visual charm.
Before the show, brand ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi once again appeared as a rider. Dressed in a black twill tunic with jeweled buttons, she rides her horse through the world of beloved equestrianism, showcasing her virtuosity and feminine splendor.
The editor, writer and musician Sébastien Tellier, originally known as Grace Kelly's granddaughter and monaco's eleventh-in-line heir to the throne, appeared in the trailer visual blockbuster, which was documented by Norwegian photographer Ola Rindal. The pieces resemble the texture of oil paintings, with a little classical charm.
Charlotte Casiraghi rode a horse to kick off THE CHANEL Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture Launch. Her sequin-embroidered black twill tweed coat paired with skinny breeches and leather riding boots is a perfect example of CHANEL's riding outfit.
Needless to say, the bridal show closure is another unforgettable and moving clip released by this haute couture collection. I saw the "bride" walking slowly with a simple suspender white dress and a small bouquet of dark blue flowers in her hand. There is no excessive decoration, only the garland style ribbon hair ornaments and the diamonds and embroidery connected to the dress, giving people a sense of innocence and holiness.
The press conference listed "Tribute to the Aesthetic Style of the World's Fair" as the design framework, and the hourglass-type collarless coats on the runway outlined a light, fresh and modern design. At the same time, a number of models use classic four-bag detailing to pay tribute to the brand's classic women's coats and sets.
We also found that the collection includes a number of ankle-length suits and over-the-knee skirts, and the skirts are lightly raised to exude feminine charm.
Reddish and pinkish hues still appear in the spring and summer haute couture collections. When the smoky rebellious girls wear warm colors, with brilliant tweeds, exquisite buttons and embroidery details, the contrast and conflict make these vivid female figures even more charming.
The black and white that Ms. Chanel is best at is still on the runway this time. Simple black and white new clothes, with the same color mary jane trip shoes, whether you say this is a 20s style, 80s features, or the current fashion, can not hide the classic design of the timeless and profound.
This time, all the embroidery workshops working with the CHANEL brand were involved in the creation of the collection. The runway is decorated with dazzling sequins and layers of embroidered patterns, and it can be said that the dresses sewn by experienced craftsmen are a dazzling picture.
Those few long skirts made of tulle exposed stomach are particularly beautiful, using a low waistline design, quite the rebellious and gorgeous temperament of the Jazz Age.
Ruffled, tasseled, hand-knotted, delicate lace, colored gemstones... All kinds of details are decorated in harmony. Among them, the camellia dress embroidered with black, white and coral beads, created by Lesage Embroidery Workshop, is one of the core pieces in the collection, and is paired with a small black coat to show the constructivist style to the fullest.
The beauty of couture masterpieces is evident in every stitch of embroidery, every button, every curve, every pattern through the details... Looking closely at these delicate clothes is like looking at the delicate and moving paintings of the classical period.
Virginie Viard said: "The on-site design of the launch event fulfilled my long-cherished desire to work with Xavier Veilhan. "When we see the geometric shapes in the runway installations contrasting with the prints, embroidery patterns and neck rings on the latest haute couture, we finally realize that the reproduction of these common elements in the avant-garde art of the 1920s and 1930s is not an empty space, but a tacit understanding between the artist and the creative director.
After watching this exquisite haute couture show, we will find that the "horse" element runs through the beginning and end of the conference.
Ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi is not only an equestrian herself, but also the honorary president of the Monte Carlo International Equestrian Steeplechase, and it is not uncommon for her to appear on the field wearing CHANEL. At the same time, the image of the horse is a key word in the aesthetic language of the artist Xavier Veilhan, and we can often find the figure of this active animal in his exhibitions. The two key figures on the runway and the "horse" have an indissoluble relationship with the brand's founder, Ms. Chanel.
Charlotte Casiraghi attends the 2021 Monte Carlo International Equestrian Steeplechase
Many years ago, when a reporter asked the designer who changed modern womenswear: "What was the hardest part of your career?" Madame Chanel replied, "Let the woman move freely and easily." ”
The fashion pioneer did not want women to feel disguised by being wrapped in a dress, and therefore changed their attitudes and behaviors, she wanted them to feel comfortable in any scene, in any activity. And the idea was inspired in part by her early experiences on horseback with two equestrian lovers, Etienne Balsan and Authur "Boy" Capel.
Chanel's first trip to New York
Chanel playing golf
Chanel is outdoors with the Duke of Westminster
At the beginning of the 20th century, the young Coco Chanel came to etienne Balsan's estate and horse farm, and the tressel pattern of the saddle pads and the interlaced stitches of the jockey jacket caught her attention, and since then this element has been closely associated with "equestrianism" in her heart. By the 1920s, when Chanel decided to reform women's wear, she incorporated design elements of menswear into women's clothing and sportswear for outdoor activities into ready-to-wear collections, and diamond checks entered the fashion world of CHANEL.
Since then, more and more women, like Coco Chanel, have been running freely on horseback with hats stripped of their feathers, wearing light riding suits, spreading their legs apart, and running freely on horseback. "Horse" has also become an important totem in CHANEL's brand culture.
Now, another "rebellious woman", Virginie Viard, has taken over the mantle and started her own galloping journey. On the runway of the Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture Collection, Viard designed a white horse debut for the closing "Bride", interpreting the classical rhythm of equestrian culture and the exquisite beauty of haute couture in her way. The opening clip of the horse Mercedes-Benz at the 2022 spring and summer haute couture clothing conference is a continuation of the closing of the white horse a year ago.
CHANEL Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture Collection
As we can see, Virginie Viard's modern design is clearly bolder. The combination of cleaner lines, colours and more exquisite craftsmanship allows the women who wear them to walk more elegantly.
Yes, for today's modern women, even if riding a horse is not necessarily a daily life, the spirit of pursuing independence, freedom and love possessed by "equestrianism" has never been outdated. We thank CHANEL for bringing one aesthetic feast after another, so that women continue to enrich their hearts and harvest strength in the world of beautiful fashion.
Edit: Sugar
Fine Arts: Roland