At 8 p.m. last night, Valentino held a press conference for the Spring/Summer 2022 couture collection.
Guests sat on both sides of the showroom, models descended from the spiraling staircase, and 63 sets of haute couture models entered the field of vision.
This season's haute couture collection is named "Anatomy Of Couture", and creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli brings us a visual feast of re-understanding beauty from the creative perspective of haute couture.
This Valentino couture show is a bold new attempt and a reflection on the beauty of contour form. The show returns to Valentino's fashion house in place of Place Vendôme in Paris, like a cycle after a qualitative change, where the core of the brand's haute couture is reborn.
The human body is not only an objective existence in reality, but also a part of the cultural composition, and the aesthetics of the body are constantly changing in the fashion trend.
In this season, Valentino no longer restricts haute couture with a specific standard, returns customization to the wearer itself, and takes wearers of different ages and postures as the longitude and latitude, giving birth to this season's mild and highly inclusive haute couture, completing a reverse break on haute couture.
Pierpaolo Piccioli creates a set of laws that reflect the pluralistic face of the contemporary world from a humanistic poetic perspective, promotes the concept of "beauty is not absolute", and shapes this season's couture into a new platform for diversified beauty, encouraging people to express themselves more actively while expressing beauty and exquisite craftsmanship.
Pierpaolo Piccioli's Valentino can be said to be "outrageous", in the design of the previous seasons, he either brought haute couture back to life, or let it and the style of different artists are deeply integrated.
This time, he chose to return haute couture to a piece of clothing itself, to truly serve the human body in another sense, to make it grow from another perspective. Therefore, this show goes against the tradition, using models of different genders, different skin tones, and different age levels.
With the aura of Italy's "queen" Mariacarla Boscono, and our familiar interdental supermodel Lara Stone, the menswear section can also see Jon Kortajarena surprise appearance.
There are also familiar faces like Anna Ewers, Julia Bergshoeff.
Even invited marie Sophie, Violetta Sanchez and other women from different industries to show people the charm of women of different ages in haute couture.
Returning to the origin of the human body, this time also used a plus-size model to show the beauty of different bodies and couture.
This choice stemmed from Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli's reflection on the creative process and birth ceremony of couture fashion.
In the past, high-end customization was based on design, and according to the design, the appropriate "hanger" was selected to perfect it into a work, and the multiple choices of this model will start from the human body and build a new possibility of different forms.
This season's haute couture returns to the people themselves more deeply on the core of previous seasons.
Pierpaolo Piccioli's ultimate color aesthetic cultivation is also one of Valentino's signature styles, extending from artistic color matching to fabric and design, which is a collision between the sense of luxury.
In March, Valentino Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli held a conversation with future Chinese haute couture designer Caroline Hu. VOGUE also documents the moment when Caroline Hu used the remaining fabrics of previous seasons to create a couture dress with Valentino, presenting a visual enjoyment of color.
In this Valentino couture show, the high-saturation color has become more visible in the design of returning to the body this season.
When these eye-catching colors become easy to navigate, it's hard to imagine anything more outstanding than them. These bright colors are only used so brilliantly by Valentino.
The easiest way to use bold colours is to use them only on one piece, such as dresses and suits. Under the blessing of light fabrics, even fluorescent colors appear tame.
Or you can also match the Klein blue top with a shoulder tail and khaki straight pants, which are only entry-level colors.
The all-over purple piece transforms the texture of different fabrics into a high-level layer, so that this unfriendly color in turn becomes a blessing of personal temperament.
The top spot must be Valentino's iconic rose and green hedge, the rose red bow at the waist is already eye-catching enough, and bold, as a shirt, under the green pants and cape, the adventurous spirit of Valentino's couture emerges.
In fact, not long ago, when the Valentino "Re-Interpretation" exhibition was held in Beijing, VOGUE went to the scene to shoot, and from these selected exhibits, it can be seen that Valention is already comfortable with bold colors.
The beauty of taffeta in the light is the general presence of Valentino's design DNA, a high-grade material that knows how to maximize the light as part of the design, allowing the wearer to walk in a posture and shine.
Feathers are also a common element in Valentino haute couture, these flowing feathers are like a flash of inspiration, behind the modern unique skirt, is thousands of man-hours of artificial craftsmanship.
Valentino used the feather element in his previous Of Grace and Light collection to create a great visual impact with fantastic craftsmanship and exaggerated size.
This season's suits, shirts or long skirts, which are embellished with fine shiny flakes, interpret sequins in different styles, making this originally high-profile element more suitable for life. These sequins are sewn by hand, and behind the brilliance is Valentino's ultimate pursuit of high-grade texture.
Valentino has introduced sequin skirts in both the Daydream and Code Temporal couture collections, and they are the perfect combination of ultimate craftsmanship and romance that is unforgettable.
The combination of weaving and beading embodies Pierpaolo Piccioli's hymn of the figure itself.
For example, in the previous Code Temporal haute couture series of dresses, this virtual and real change and the perfect interaction of body curves have also been shown.
The design of several gauze skirts this season is also unforgettable, and the combination with the lace-up design allows this otherwise lightweight material to interact with the wearer loosely and tightly.
The body is in fashion, which is the starting point and the end of the whole process.
The control of the silhouette is the iconic aesthetic embodiment of Valentino haute couture.
Or close to the curve of the body, or stretch out, the smooth lines grow out from the body, under the blessing of Valentino's top fabrics and exquisite craftsmanship, a more diversified and beautiful growth platform.
You can see Valentino's new interpretation of various classic silhouettes on this show, and get more possibilities under the display of different models.
The curves of the body and the skin are outlined just right between the skirt and cuffs, the lines and tones are integrated, and the tailored skirt fits every curve just right, which is derived from the Valentino heritage process to give haute couture and agility.
The neatly lined dress creates the beauty of the interaction between the body and the fabric, highlighting the simple beauty of Valentino's development so far.
The trapezoidal cloak structure is interpreted by different fabrics, which can be as wide as a sculpture or as flowing as the wind.
Combine pleats with premium textured fabrics to create a shirt, cocoon-shaped skirt or coat that's laid-back and relaxed.
The large number of pleated processes and cascading designs are also one of the highlights of recent seasons, and the satin creases further amplify this beauty, whether it is the skirt or the shawl, it is a gorgeous presence that cannot be ignored.
The short-version jacket is very individual in shape and has a very large texture, combined with prints or soft high-grade fabrics, showing a completely different sense of atmosphere.
Valentino's dress can't be ignored, and the slim Seconde Peau Dress with sequins is perfect.
The extremely exaggerated hem is still blooming on the runway, the hourglass velvet bandeau skirt will be playful and dignified subtly balanced, and the sexy high slit one-shoulder black dress can be imagined to become a weapon for the future red carpet seconds to beat the film.
Through this season's haute couture, Valentino has returned the focus of design and haute couture to the wearer itself, and haute couture is no longer a product of a distant and empty form.
Pierpaolo Picciol's thinking on body aesthetics and the support of the brand's high-level craftsmanship have made this experimental attempt not fall apart because of different objects, but have a stronger aesthetic power in the interpretation of different groups, which is a dialogue between designers, dressmakers and wearers about the origin.
Valentino has always pursued beauty and elegance, and the Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection is a sublime and poetic change, breaking the shackles of traditional concepts on haute couture, allowing each individual to see the infinite possibilities between haute couture and themselves.
Haute Couture design itself, like the source of other clothes, is equal, and the body is its ultimate owner.
EDIT: Silver
Fine Arts: Roland