In 2021, Xu Jinhui, executive chef of Chinese cuisine in China, after the development of a "long" "replica" and "disappeared famous dish", was impressed and memorable for each famous dish in the whole process of talking about the restoration of "disappeared famous dishes".
When talking about his own "Chinese New Year's Eve rice", Xu Jinhui said, "It must have chicken and shrimp", and the most desired dish: "I hope to make a glutinous rice with my son". The reason is simple, "because my son loves sticky rice".
The reporter noticed that there is also a restoration of "sticky rice" in the "disappearing famous dishes" series 2, will Xu Jinhui use the "disappearing method" to make Chinese New Year's Eve rice for family banquets?
Xu Jinhui told Nandu reporter, "There is a part of sticky rice in the disappeared famous dish 2, but that dish is more complicated and not suitable for the family banquet of Chinese New Year's Eve rice, and I will take my children to complete the sticky rice suitable for the family."
"To make sticky rice, I steam it, put it in the refrigerator for a night, and then stir-fry it the next day with mushrooms, sausages, shrimp and other condiments."
"To make sticky rice, most chefs don't have the steps to stay overnight in the refrigerator."
"Put it in the refrigerator, mainly to make the glutinous rice dry."
This sticky rice recipe of chef's secret can be the "protagonist" of Chinese New Year's Eve rice.
"Embroidery" kung fu to make Cantonese cuisine
Ancient crispy glutinous rice chicken
Speaking of the second season of "Disappearing Famous Dishes", it is simply using "embroidery" kung fu to make Cantonese cuisine. For example, this famous dish containing "sticky rice" - Caiyi Red Robe (ancient method of roasting money chicken), in fact, "sticky rice" is only a "supporting role", the biggest skill of this dish is to start the whole chicken skin.
According to reports, this dish originated from the cantonese cuisine master's craftsmanship a hundred years ago, and the "peeling" link in the production should ensure that the chicken skin is as complete as ever, as thin as a cicada wing, and the "embroidery" kung fu of the chef is the most tested. The taste is described as "inside with dry", which is more appropriate. Through the "chicken wrapped rice", it is fried in a pan of boneless whole chicken wrapped in glutinous rice, and then cut like a barbecue suckling pig. "Qiankun" refers to raw stir-fried glutinous rice stir-fried with 12 ingredients such as wax flavor, shiitake mushrooms, and dried shrimp, which is clear and not paste, and the ingredients are abundant. Chicken juice and wax flavor essence are fully absorbed by glutinous rice, and the glutinous rice is fragrant and softened, which is particularly flavorful. The cut sticky rice chicken is pieced into a phoenix body, and the part of the tail is another traditional roasted flavor - roasted money chicken. Chicken liver, iced meat and meat eyes are marinated for a long time, and then skewered with thin slices of ginger interspersed between each ingredient. Cut into round blocks to form a phoenix tail, the phoenix colored clothes come to life.
Cantonese chef who knows "embroidery" kung fu
Chinese Columbia Executive Chef Xu Jinhui
The protagonist of this article is Chef "Lao Guang", Xu Jinhui, Executive Chef of Chinese Cuisine, known as "Hui Ge" by jianghu people.
Xu Jinhui, who is good at Cantonese cuisine, was awarded the honorary title of "World Cantonese Cuisine Michelin Star Chef" and "World Cantonese Cuisine Beacon Knight Gold Award" by the World Cantonese Chefs Association in 2017; in 2018, he was awarded the title of "International Five-Star Chef" by the China Hotel Association, serving as the referee of each cooking competition for many years; in 2017, he was awarded the honorary title of "National Technical Expert" by the Ministry of Human Resources and Social Security of the People's Republic of China; in 2019, he was rated as "National Technical Expert" by the Hong Kong Academic Accreditation Bureau. Asia-Pacific Chef Emperor Art Meritorious Figure", in 2021, he was awarded the five-star celebrity chef of "Cantonese Cuisine Master" in Guangdong Province. Since 1991, Chef Xu jinhui has been serving China Hotels for more than 30 years. According to industry evaluation, Xu Jinhui has developed from an ordinary chef to a major chef in the creation and cooking of chinese restaurant dishes, which is inseparable from his rich experience and solid foundation in Cantonese cooking creation, as well as his bold attempt and hard work spirit.
In the past 2 years, Xu Jinhui has participated in the restoration of "disappeared famous dishes", and Xu Jinhui has a lot of feelings, "The reason for the disappearance is naturally that it has been eliminated by the market, and it may be the disappearance of ingredients and species, but the skills of Cantonese cuisine cannot disappear." Therefore, he said, "what I want to inherit most is the craftsmanship of Cantonese cuisine." He revealed that in the process of "restoration", in addition to reading the ancient books of Cantonese cuisine, he consulted many Cantonese cuisine masters, and was often "scolded". The restoration process of each dish is difficult, because the ingredients are changing, the taste is changing, the equipment is changing, and the needs of diners are changing, but the "embroidery kung fu" technique taught by the teacher Fu cannot be forgotten, and the "kung fu" cannot be "sneaked", such as a grapefruit peel dish that takes 3 days to make.
Green willow weeping slag
Partridge porridge
In the impression of Hui Ge's "restored famous dishes", although each dish is as precious as his own "child", he still focuses on recalling 2 of them: the poetic green willow weeping silk was once flourishing a hundred years ago, it is the skirt of the outermost circle of adult large turtles, and the boneless beetle meat is silked together, which also reflects the exquisite skill of knife skills, and the side dish Ge Slag pays attention to the cooking skills of seafood soup and the heat of frying, and it is difficult to find traces on the market at present. Although partridge porridge is called porridge, in fact, there is no grain of rice in it, and it is all made of partridge bone and meat, which is cooked with Huaishan rong and bird's nest, which is one of the representatives of Cantonese "kung fu dishes". Partridge porridge is used as a soup, together with clear soup and Mandarin duck, one thick and one light, which constitutes the basic regulation of traditional Cantonese cuisine feasts.
Xu Jinhui said that "the inheritance is not conservative, innovation does not forget the original, and the original intention of recovering the lost skills is not only reproduced, but also in response to the times, adapting to the market demand to improve the skills, and continuously injecting and continuing its vitality." ”
The cultural value of "Cantonese cuisine"
Cantonese cuisine, with its delicious taste, fine selection of ingredients, clear but not light, fresh and not vulgar, tender but not raw, oily but not greasy is widely known, its exquisite skills have not only been passed down for thousands of years, but also become a cultural symbol passed down from generation to generation.
The "Disappearing Famous Dishes" series of cultural and creative gastronomic masterpieces jointly launched by the Guangzhou Museum and the China Grand Hotel have attracted the attention of the industry.
The reporter learned that in 2020, the Guangzhou Museum and the China Hotel planned the "Disappearing Famous Dishes" cultural and creative project, so that the old objects hidden in the museum and the traditional Cantonese feast system living in the old menu returned to the public's table.
Once the project was launched, it attracted much market attention and enthusiasm, and many diners came to book to taste the "disappearing taste", so that the cultural relics collected in the museum really came alive, so that the traditional Cantonese feast regulations and cultural meanings could be inherited.
On this basis, in 2021, the Guangzhou Museum and the China Hotel once again joined hands to launch the second season of "Disappearing Famous Dishes": Cantonese Banquet China, showing the charm of Cantonese cuisine from three aspects: restoring traditional dishes, recreating the increasingly fading cooking "embroidery" kung fu, and modern chef inheritance and innovation.
From 6 January 2022, the Four Seasons Hall of The China Hotel has launched the "Cantonese Banquet China" ("Disappearing Famous Dishes"2) full table and casual la carte dishes, because the dishes take time and effort, the whole table needs to be booked 3 days in advance, some casual dishes also need to be booked one day in advance, and the Lunar New Year holiday (except for the Chinese New Year's Eve meal) can also be booked (disappeared famous dishes 2, applicable to lunch 11:30-14:30, dinner time 18:00-21:30).
Zhiduo D: Cantonese cuisine traceable
Lingnan has been rich in products since ancient times, and after Qin Shi Huang pacified Baiyue, he opened the prelude to exchanges between the Central Plains and the Lingnan region. During the reign of Emperor Wen of Han, Zhao Tuo, the king of Nanyue, was subordinated to the central government, and exchanges between the Central Plains and Lingnan became increasingly frequent. The food preparation methods and food types in the Central Plains were introduced to Lingnan and integrated with the local food customs of Lingnan, and the Cantonese diet originated from this. In the ruins of the Han tomb excavated in Guangzhou, a variety of fruit seeds and pigs, cattle, sheep, chickens, ducks, geese and other livestock were unearthed; there were also mud cockles, green cockles and grass flower finches.
During the two major periods of the late Han Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty, a large number of Zhongyuan Shi clans went south, and the cooking technology of the Central Plains flowed into Lingnan, and during the Tang and Song Dynasties, Cantonese cuisine as an independent cuisine has begun to take shape, and the name of "Southern Cuisine" can be seen in the classics. In the Qing Dynasty, Guangzhou gradually became the largest economic center in southern China, which accelerated the convergence and fusion of northern and southern flavors here. Guangzhou has always been a diverse and inclusive city, in terms of food is more inclusive, Cantonese chefs continue to absorb the essence of other cuisines, especially the "Manchu Han Full Table" and "Chen Tang flavor" two major genres, according to the local environment, folklore, taste, hobbies to improve and innovate, so that Cantonese cuisine developed rapidly, becoming one of the four major cuisines in China, and ascended to the status of "holding the cow's ear".
After the Xinhai Revolution, Guangzhou, as the source of the revolution and the derivation of economic culture, Cantonese cuisine has also matured day by day. Lingnan cuisine is deeply rooted in the hearts of the people through Beijing's Tanjia cuisine and local Taishi cuisine, and in Shanghai, it has won the honor of "National Cuisine" with Haipai Cantonese cuisine. By the 1920s and 1930s, the "Food in Guangzhou" sign was well-known at home and abroad.
Written by: Nandu reporter Xiao Yang
Images courtesy of respondents
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