Chengdu Plain, also known as The Dam of Western Sichuan, is blessed by the Dujiangyan and the water is beautiful and fertile, and the four seasons are fruitful. People live a rich and leisurely life, even pigs, cattle, sheep, ducks, geese and chickens are also walking idly in the fields, ditches and ponds, enjoying a leisurely life without hunger and carefree.
Most of the mallards in the Chengdu Plain are stocked in river dams, ponds, ditches and rice fields, feeding on insects, fish and shrimp, and cereals, and mature and marketed in autumn. Due to its natural habits, the duck has a delicate and beautiful meat, and it has always been a delicacy and table delicacy among the Sichuan people. More than a hundred years ago, there were dozens of varieties of duck dishes that were popular in The Wells of Chengdu City: plate duck, roast duck, roast duck, brine duck, oil-boiled duck, sauce duck, bucket duck, bad duck, brine duck, sweet-skinned duck and dozens of other species. Among the recipes of restaurants and restaurants, there are more than 100 kinds of duck dishes.
In Chengdu's West Royal Street, Wang Fat Duck, which moved to at least half of the city in the mid-1970s, has a history of more than 100 years and was the only halal duck shop in Chengdu at that time. Founder Wang Fuxing people fat, shrewd and capable, its soft roast duck selection of materials, a variety of ingredients, fine production, with red and bright color, duck skin crisp, tender meat, fresh and moist flavor characteristics, deeply loved by the food, people give "Wang Fat Duck" interesting name. Interestingly, Chengdu people collectively refer to ducks processed by smoked fire as "roast duck", the most famous of which are hanging oven roast duck, camphor tea duck, Qingshiqiao Zhang roast duck, Qinglongchang wen duck smoked duck and so on.
Traditional smoked duck
Wen duck after more than 100 years, three generations of inheritance, the process of excellence, unique flavor of the exquisite, its selection of six or seven months of growth of hemp duck, after treatment, pickling, air drying, smoking, fragrant brine a total of 12 processes on the table. The finished product is golden and red and shiny, the form is perfect and plump, the taste is salty and fresh, the marinated incense is thick, the entrance is delicate and tender, and it is most suitable for eating with wine, so it has become a delicious duck dish loved by Chengdu people for a hundred years. Then there is the roast duck of the Bluestone Bridge Zhang Roast Duck, and the thought will be dripping with saliva. Qingshiqiao also has Wen ducks famous for "filling ducks", Wen ducks in Qinglongchang, Zhuang ducks in Ronghua Temple, Tangchang plate ducks in Pixian County, Nine Foot Plate Ducks in Pengzhou, and Qionglai Oil Hot Ducks. However, the most prestigious is the chengdu rat dong camphor tea duck, which has a long reputation at home and abroad.
In towns across Sichuan, especially in the streets and alleys of Chengdu, the scent of duck dishes wafts in the air from morning to night. Carts for sale, temporary stalls, specialty stores and other comprehensive pickling shops can be bought and raised everywhere in the streets and alleys. All kinds of duck dishes and duck parts, such as duck wings, duck feet, duck neck, duck tongue, duck jungan, duck brain shell, etc., have always been Chengdu men's wine and good dishes, and beautiful women are delicious snacks in their mouths. In recent years, Chengdu's duck brain shells that are first brine and then fried are flying all over the ground, and the air is filled with the spicy flavor of choking people's throats. However, the most insulting are camphor duck, smoked duck, crispy duck and roast duck.
Kawanishi Mao
In the past hundred years, Camphor Tea Duck has been famous in China and overseas, not only flowing incense to the homes of ordinary people, but also becoming a leisure food for Sichuan people to accompany wine, eating and drinking spicy, and also an atmospheric and elegant taste of drunken guests and fragrant friends and friends. Camphor tea duck has a perfect shape and bright red color, supplemented by lotus leaf cakes and shallot sauce dishes, which become the feast after the first dish. Its duck skin is crisp, the meat is fragrant, fat but not stuffy, cotton without teeth, delicate slag; the flavor is seven tastes, delicious and luscious, mellow and long; the lotus leaf cake is white and elegant, soft and soft, which makes people feel and taste particularly comfortable. Tasting camphor tea duck pays attention to freshly fried and hot tasting, in order to fully feel its elegant and mellow taste. If a glass of fine wine is slowly sucked and slowly eaten, it is the aroma of duck wine, the taste of strong wine, the aroma of tongue, and the stomach. In the 1930s, Huang Shaoqing, a famous Sichuan chef, became famous on the beach for his camphor tea and duck incense drunk ten miles of ocean field.
In the 1950s and early 1960s, Sichuan cuisine masters Kong Daosheng and Chen Zhigang were sent to the "Chinese Hotel" in Prague, the capital of Czech Slok, to teach Czech chefs the cooking techniques of Sichuan cuisine, of which camphor tea duck was highly appreciated by Czech politicians and celebrities. In 1979, Sichuan cuisine masters performed in Hong Kong, and Camphor Tea Duck became a gold medal dish that sensationalized Xiangjiang. In November 1983, the first national famous chef cooking technology performance, Sichuan cuisine master Zeng Qichang won the title of national excellent chef with Famous Sichuan dishes such as camphor tea duck.
Traditional camphor tea duck
The sichuan duck dish also has a crispy duck that is similar to the camphor tea duck. This duck is first smeared with five-spice powder, rice wine, Sichuan salt to the duck body inside and out, put into a clay bowl and marinated for 40 minutes; take out the ginger pieces placed in a large steaming bowl, beat the broken, put the knotted green onions and peppercorns on the duck, put them into the cage and steam them on high heat to soften; take out the dry water, let it cool and fry it in an 80% hot oil pot until the skin is golden brown; then cut into strips, plate it in the shape of the duck, brush the sesame oil dishes, and serve it on a plate with the flavor of the shallot sauce. There is no smoking process for the production of crispy duck, that is, the three procedures of pickling into the flavor, steaming and rake, and frying the crispy. The specialty of this duck dish is that it is fragrant and crispy, its aroma is rich, the aroma is fragrant, crisp but not chai, crisp and not oily. In 1954, Fan Junkang, a former sichuan chef at the Beijing Hotel, accompanied Premier Zhou Enlai to Switzerland to participate in the World Peace Congress within a day. After the meeting, Zhou Enlai feasted on celebrities from all walks of life in Switzerland, and the famous film performance artist and humor master Chaplin pin ate the crispy duck, praised it, lamented that it was "a delicious taste that will last a lifetime", and asked Zhou Enlai to send him one back to share with his family. During the banquet, Chaplin also met with Fan Junkang and said humorously: "I will go to Beijing in the future to learn from you to make crispy duck." The guests laughed, which showed chaplin's deep love for crispy duck.
Plate duck in marinate
However, nowadays, many diners, especially Sichuan cuisine fans, are still loyal to some long-established Sichuan cuisine famous stores, and they do not know that these well-known "old brands" are indeed old,000 dragon bells, and the flavor characteristics have long since become yesterday's yellow flowers. In fact, some traditional Sichuan restaurants in Chengdu like the camphor tea duck in the Kuanxiangzi Xuanxuan Courtyard, the Zhang roast duck in Qingshiqiao, the Wen duck in Qinglongchang, the duck in Ronghua Temple, and the leaf duck on Jianghan Road are very authentic. It is worth mentioning that the Zhang duck of Qingshiqiao, from the 80s to the present stable fragrance for almost 30 years, has always adhered to the traditional local method of roasting, not only can be regarded as the old predecessor of the local roast duck, its huge earth oven Qinggang charcoal roasting method, is the only roast duck in Chengdu at present.
There are also self-employed ducks, scalded ducks, roast ducks, brine ducks, smoked ducks, sauce ducks, bad ducks, roast ducks, roast ducks, etc. scattered in the small streets and vegetable markets. The delicious ducks in the surrounding townships of Chengdu are naturally visible to the eye, and they can be tasted with their mouths open. And the use of real materials, exquisite production, traditional techniques, authentic flavor. Like Pixian Tangchang plate duck, Pengzhou nine-foot plate duck, Dayi Xinchang ancient town sesame oil soil duck, Chongzhou soil plate duck, Liujiang oil hot duck, Leshan sweet skin duck and so on.
Crispy duck
Sichuan people have always been fond of local specialties hemp duck, in addition to duck feathers do not eat to make down jackets, pillows, a duck that is eaten from head to toe, from the inside to the outside, even duck blood is not spared, in the eyes of Sichuan people, duck blood is higher than pig blood a grade, if the store tells you that his hair blood is duck blood instead of pig blood, you are not surprised to sell expensive. Speaking of the present, duck brain shell, duck neck, duck foot board, duck wings, is definitely spicy dry pot, spicy pot, cold cup, night beer indispensable delicious. In particular, the spicy duck head, duck neck, duck wings and duck feet are the favorites of Sichuan girls, and the wine of Sichuan Hanzi is a good dish.
Chengdu people also have a big hobby of eating duck, and they like to eat roast duck, duck intestines and duck blood. The word "mao" is original to the Sichuan dialect, that is, a variety of meat dishes are put into a bamboo basket, then put in a spicy and fragrant brine soup pot for two or three minutes, then blanched or cooked, and then poured into a bowl with a few simple seasonings to eat. Among them, roast duck, duck intestines, and duck blood are unique. Fake dishes such as roast duck can be said to be one of the highlights of Chengdu's unique civilian food culture, and even become a special flavor dish in restaurants and restaurants. Roast duck, duck intestines and duck blood of Qingshiqiao Zhang Roast Duck and Jianghan Road Leaf Duck are already household brands.
Roast duck
Not only that, but there are dozens of duck dishes in the traditional famous dishes of Sichuan cuisine, and old diners are familiar with cordyceps duck, cordyceps duck tongue, fairy duck, taibai duck, gourd duck, white juice duck roll, crystal duck square, bean paste duck breast, etc. The general foodie knows that there are whole duck with silk, sour radish duck soup, green pepper sauce fried duck tongue, konjac roast duck, green bean roast duck, ginger stir-fried duck, konjac fat sausage roast duck, etc. Among the many classic Sichuan dishes that have never been heard of or seen before, the 'fairy duck' is a 'fairy duck' that becomes a 'god' if you eat it carelessly. Sichuan cuisine fairy duck, also known as the south duck, is a traditional classic dish, the dish atmosphere is awe-inspiring, the form is elegant, the color is bright, the flesh is soft, the tender slag, the taste is delicious and fragrant, the taste is rich, the juice is thick, the young and old are happy, because of the long life, the 'living immortal' who has lost his teeth can also chew and swallow, so it is called 'immortal duck'.
Dear guests, you see this little hemp duck, inconspicuous, insignificant, but through the Sichuan people's delicious mouth, a pair of clever hands and cooking skills, it has become a unique human cuisine, whether it is color, aroma, or eating love food is not by people to shoot the case, applause and applause, endless aftertaste. The interesting experience of this famous duck born in rat caves and the customs and customs of Chuanxi Damzi make the taste of the eaters have a long aftertaste and linger. It can also be concluded that even in the country of Tianfu, which is sought after on earth, Donald Duck and Rhubarb Ducks do not dare to rush to it.
Cinderella and the Ugly Duckling
Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Board of "Sichuan Province Chronicle • Sichuan Cuisine Chronicle" Sichuan Cuisine Culture Person Sichuan Cuisine Contributor
Author of "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "The History of Sichuan Cuisine on the Roadside", and "Three Hundred Years of Spicy Hemp Temptation"
Original Graphics • Jianghu Gluttony East 2019.08.31 Chengdu