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Sanjin cuisine: noodles on the tip of the tongue

author:Globe.com

Source: Global Network - Cultural Tourism Channel

【Global Network Cultural Tourism Special Author Mi Guanghong】Huang noodles are a kind of flour processed from quinoa, which likes cold, drought-resistant, salt-resistant, and is mostly planted in northwest China and north China. In the past, people could rarely eat fine wheat noodles, and could only replace them with noodles, which echoed the folk song: "There is no good tea in the mountains, only the noodles and the yam eggs." Nowadays, it seems that a single product did not cause trouble to the people of that era, on the contrary, in the long years, they ate the noodles in a different way, and the coarse grain of the noodles was eaten out of the sense of abundance of "full han".

Sanjin cuisine: noodles on the tip of the tongue

Photo: Hirohiro Mi

If there is anything delicious that can make Mr. Wang Zengqi, who is known as "gourmet", remember it and write it into the novel, it may only be noodles. He wrote in "Seven Mile Tea House": After a while, the noodles were steamed, and the house was filled with white steam, which was very warm and lazy. But the hot nest has been brought to the kang. The noodles that just came out of the drawer are so fragrant! With the water of the steamed noodles, wash our faces, and we eat with a sauce made of wheat bran, no oil, no vinegar, and especially no chili! But you have to believe that I am telling the truth: I have rarely eaten such a delicious thing in my life.

Three raw and three cooked, "thirty mile noodles". The noodles are delicious, but not easy to make. After thousands of years of accumulation of experience, people who are good at eating the noodles have summed up the method of "three births and three ripenesses": after harvesting the wheat, the grains that come out of the wheat are raw and "a lifetime"; the shelled wheat grains need to be fried in the pot to grind the noodles, which is "one ripe"; the fried wheat grains are ground into powder, and then return to life, which is "two-life"; the boiling noodles are boiled again with boiling boiling water and noodles, which is "two-cooked"; the good wheat noodles are kneaded into various forms while hot, or raw, it is "three-life"; after the steaming of the kneaded wheat noodles, it can be eaten, which is "three-cooked". If it is not cooked properly, the taste is not right. The noodles are coarse grains, because of the high amount of dietary fiber they contain, extremely "anti-hunger", so there is a saying in Shanxi that "thirty miles of noodles and forty miles of cake". Locals say that the noodles are "heavy", and it will be uncomfortable to eat too much, which is actually the meaning. In the past, people who went out to eat more noodles would fill their stomachs with nostalgia before they set off.

Sanjin cuisine: noodles on the tip of the tongue

Rub it together and rub out various shapes. The most classic noodle delicacies are inseparable from rubbing. It is a famous traditional noodle snack in the alpine region of Shanxi, which belongs to Jin cuisine. Its exquisite craftsmanship, beautiful shape, strong taste, coupled with "lamb mushroom soup", it can really be described as "a family eating ten incense", no wonder even the Kangxi Emperor worshiped Wutai Mountain, but also taste this as a happy thing in life. In addition to the nest, Shanxi people's favorite food is the noodle fish. Pull a ball down from the reconciled noodles and rub them into the shape of a round fish with two pointed ends, the length is up to you. If the dough is not long, push it forward with your thumb and it will become "cat ears" again.

Make strips, hot and cold. Because the noodles are "resistant to hunger" and are not easy to digest at night, most people eat at noon, which is also more formal. In the past, people rarely had a bird bed in their homes, and the housewife who was good at making wonton noodles could rub out a long and thin, similar "wonton rope" with her bare hands, and now every household has a bed to suppress the wontons, and the wonton noodles have become the simplest and most common noodle delicacies. There are many ways to eat noodles, which are roughly divided into two types - hot and cold. Hot meal means topped with hot soup in steamed dumplings or fried in oil. And cold eating is cold mixing to eat, the reconciled noodles rolled into thin slices, smeared with cooking oil on both sides, put into the cage drawer steamed and then taken out to cool, cut into strips, add green pepper shreds, cucumber shreds, and then put salt and a little chili oil cold mix, and finally a little soul condiment old vinegar, eat it is called a fragrant.

Sanjin cuisine: noodles on the tip of the tongue

Dumplings, memories of the older generation. Dumplings sound very similar to the dumplings you usually eat, but they are completely different. Most of the fillings in the dumplings are shredded potatoes, sauerkraut, bitter vegetables, etc., which are wrapped and steamed in a steamer basket to eat. The older generation of Shanxi people eat dumplings and like to pour twist flowers, so that they can eat authentically. Twist flowers are all over Shanxi, but the name is different, it is actually a wild spice, plucked and dried when flowering, when eating into the heated sesame oil a boil, instantly overflowing with aroma, mixed into the dumplings, but also let people appetite.

The best combination of noodles and potatoes. In Shanxi, noodles and potatoes are a great match, and these two ingredients alone can make a lot of noodle dishes. The steamed potatoes are mashed and steamed together with the noodles to make a potato cake. Rub the yam into the end, mix the appropriate amount of noodles after the water is washed, dilute the noodles, and use the pot under the bed to make a friction rubbing noodles; if you don't use the bed, directly take some good noodles and put them on the shovel, and use chopsticks to pull down the pot one by one, which is often called "eight shares". Of course, the most classic way to eat the combination of noodles and potatoes is to make a cave. Crush the steamed potatoes, add the noodles and salt, knead them into small knots by hand and steam them in a steamer basket, then pour them into a pan of oil and stir-fry until the knots turn brown.

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