He Jin
"Jia San" soup bun this old shop, located on the main street of Muslim Street, along the bluestone road that has been stepped on by the gluttons, to the most central position. Above the red and blue sign hangs a brick carved door head of "JinQinhe", which has a history of more than 120 years, which is the beginning of the life of "Jia San BaoziGuan".
Steamed buns - soup buns The fusion of north and south brings delicious taste on the tip of the tongue
According to the genealogy of the Jia family, the old Jia family settled in Xi'an dating back to the fifth year of the Ming Dynasty (1625), and the ancestor of the Jia family, Jia Mingxin, moved from The Water West Gate in Nanjing to Xi'an. At first, the Jia family took "do not seek people in everything, self-help, their home has no source, self-reliance and self-improvement" as their family motto.
Later, the Jia family began to deal in food, after five generations, in order to meet the basic needs of the Qing Dynasty people for life, opened the "Steamed Bun Zhuang" and "Noodle Shop", because the Qing Dynasty had a law that "private bureaus are not allowed", the Jia family hung up the "Water West Gate Food Bureau" signboard, in times of crisis to help the disaster, save the people from water and fire, so the Chang'an Fu Ya specially approved this extraordinary behavior in this extraordinary period, and personally inscribed a plaque of "Jixintang", which is intended to "store faith and store goodness, and seek elegance". In the 10th year of Qing Guangxu (1884), it developed into a bun shop, and the first generation of jia Yulin and Jia Yubao brothers founded the steamed bun village in Xi'an Huifang, which was mainly engaged in steamed noodles at that time.
In the 29th year of Qing Guangxu (1903), the brothers Jia Chengqi and Jia Chengkui of the Chengzi generation opened a steamed bun village, a grain bank, a vinegar shop, and a bath industry in Xi'an Huifang Majiashizi, forming a thriving trend of "four reds" with three corners and four shops, when the bun zhuang began to deal in pasta with filling. During the Republic of China, it was passed down to the pure character generation and the Yong character generation, and the variety of Jia family bun noodles continued to increase. Subsequently, the Jia family created the Halal characters of the Jia family such as Jixintang, Jinqinhe and so on, which led to the brick carved door of the "Jinqinhe" originally hung in the old Majia Cross shop mentioned in the text. According to the inheritors, the soup bun is the hostess of the family to bring the southern method to huifang, coupled with the "halal" ingredients and recipes, in the bun filling injected with beef bone marrow "broth", the bun stuffing contains soup delicious, Xi'an has a "soup bun".
Spread the branches and leaves to carry forward the pasta culture
The Jia family's estate began to blossom in the third generation, and the third generation made choices with ancestral craftsmanship. After liberation, the third generation of Jia Chunji, Jia Chunzhi, Jia Yongkuan and Jia Yongxin entered the state-run catering enterprises as the backbone of the industry because of the public-private partnership. Jia Chunji worked as a pastry chef in "Lao Sun Family", "Tong Sheng Xiang" and "One Building", and was also awarded a senior technician in the cooking skill competition in the 60s, and performed and produced unique skills for Liu Shaoqi, Zhu De, Xi Zhongxun and other revolutionary elders who came to Xi'an. Jia Chunxiao, Jia Chunying and Jia Chunshan led the family members to operate the noodle and soup bun industry and other Jia family industries, and the bun noodle and bath industry has been passed down to this day.
Xi'an people love to eat pasta, more love to eat buns, the third generation of people who operate soup buns will concentrate on this skill, Jia Chunxiao's wife Liu Min is also Jia San's stepmother, Jiangsu Qidong people, in the 1940s fell in Xi'an, married into the Jia family in the 1950s, in the Jia family's decades of catering development, a Kind of Jiangsu and Zhejiang flavor "soup" characteristics dissolved into the Jia family buns, adding new content and characteristics to the Jia family buns. If the "skin of the Jia family bun is as thin as paper, the tendons are tough and soft" is the experience of the ancestors in operating the "noodle village", and the "fragrant juice" is the private work of operating the "vinegar factory", then Liu Min's efforts have enriched the "Jiangsu and Zhejiang characteristics" of the Jia family bun "filling tender and soup". Therefore, the "Jia San Guan Soup Bun", which is "thin as paper, tough and flexible, fragrant with juice, tender and soupy", has become one of the four famous features of "halal magic products".
In the 1980s, Jia Zhiliang (Jia San), the son of Jia Chunxiao, made further improvements to form today's standardized Jia San Halal Soup Bun, which is shaped like a pomegranate, resembles a yuanbao, has a thin skin like paper, is tough and flexible, is tender and soupy, and is accompanied by a fragrant juice, which is deeply loved by consumers. In terms of utensils, Jia San also successfully developed the "Chinese Jia SanGuo Wooden Cage" that has obtained a national patent, which can withstand strong fire and make the bun steam out quickly, on the one hand, retaining the fragrance, on the other hand, the nutrients are also maintained better. Cage drawer out of the pot is on the table, diners can also smell the steamer's wood aroma, which was the country's unique cage presentation of healthy food, steaming, full of aroma, both the northern free generosity, but also the south of the exquisite carving, Jia San soup bun This unique food makes diners linger.
(Variation of cage drawers by age)
(Patented "fruit cage")
Steaming fast in a fierce fire, striving for stability, creating just the right soup bun
Speaking of Jia San, although it is a family business, Jia San did not engage in this line of work at the beginning. At the age of 18, he served as the production director of Xi'an Environmental Protection Equipment Factory, and in his 20s, he assumed the heavy responsibility of the director of Xi'an Industrial Dust Removal Equipment Factory, and worked for more than ten years. Jia San, who has trained superb pastry skills since childhood, because of this experience, broadened his horizons, he knows that he cannot be satisfied by the reputation around the square circle, and cannot be in the development mode of the family workshop for a long time, so he goes south to visit the north and the north, learns from all the strengths, improves the cooking process of the bun, uses modern scientific and technological means to improve the preparation of the soup soup and the production and processing process of the filling, and transforms and innovates the steamed bun processing equipment and facilities. Jia San took the lead in using a gas stove that increased the heating area, which ensured the requirements of the "soup buns" for the heat, and formed a new concept of "strong fire moment, drunken meat with soup, and gasification juice" to make soup buns.
In order to find an ideal steamer mat, Jia San went deep into the hometown where the mat was made to investigate and understand, and went to the village to find the best processor. After ten years of development of walnut wood, apple wood, pear wood processing of "Jia San fruit wood steamer", with these blessings, "Jia San Guan Soup Bun" was praised as "halal first cage" at that time, and quickly won the recognition of the majority of consumers. In Jia San's career, His wife He Yuanxian played a pivotal role. He Yuanxian is a descendant of the famous brand food "He Jia Twist Flower", and his grandfather He Wenshou once made "He Jia Twist Flower" famous in Xi'an for operating He Jia Twist Flower and other noodle oil products. He Yuanxian selflessly "grafted" the stunts from the He family's "oil" and "noodles" to the "Jia family buns", and she was the most selfless, wisest and most effective assistant in Jia San's career.
(1985 old store)
(North Courtyard store 19 years ago)
(North Courtyard Store, 1991)
(North Courtyard Store, 1993)
(2006 North Courtyard Store)
When the influence of "Jia San Guan Tang Bao" became more and more influential, Jia San resolutely built a six-story ancient building on the square, which is known as the "Xi'an Jia San Halal Soup Bun Restaurant" located in the golden location of Muslim Street, and then opened a branch in Tumen, and now there is a branch in Beijing. In the face of the impact of the market, Jia San closely follows the innovation of the times, but has always advocated the concept of "classic" and "passable", guiding the changes in the skin and filling of the bun to the path of health, health and green, not only developing colorful buns, but also beef, lamb, oxtail, three fresh, seafood, soft and other varieties.
(Scene of bun processing 20 years ago)
(Current bun processing scene)
The flow of customers is too large, the branch has been opened, and the manpower is insufficient, how to ensure word of mouth is a big problem. Jia San, who was not too troublesome, decided to distribute semi-finished products to the branch store for processing, and the processing department next to the Beiyuan store played a great role, on the one hand, it could give a lot of physical work to the machine, such as boiling soup, noodles, kneading noodles, etc., on the other hand, the processing department distributed the good dough ingredients every day (the number of grams and size of the dough of each bun are strict standards) and the good stuffing was distributed to two other stores in Xi'an. Jia San, who is seeking perfection and stability, finally made this small soup bun into a representative food of Xi'an, and the good honor of the product naturally came, and won many honors and qualifications such as "century-old brand", "Chinese time-honored brand", "Chinese famous restaurant", "Chinese famous snack", "Shaanxi province intangible cultural heritage" and so on.
(Processing Department)
Nowadays, there are hundreds of employees in the four stores of "Jia San Guan Soup Bun", and there are more than 100 people in the North Courtyard store, and every holiday, the diners who come to visit are endless, not only will the four floors be filled, but even queued up at the door. This thriving scene does not just confirm Jia Pingwa's description of "Jia San Guan Soup Bun" in the article "Friends": "A snack can make you remember Xi'an, and a thousand wonderful tastes make people nostalgic for fangshang." ”
(Profile photo courtesy of "Jia San Guan Soup Bun")