Qianjiang Evening News Hourly News Reporter Sun Wen
Watching the tide in August, the poet Xu Zhimo also caught up with this fashion.
Invite a group of friends, from Hangzhou and Shanghai, two ways to Haining Xieqiao, and then take a pre-booked boat, all the way to talk and laugh, eat and drink, swing to the Yanguan.
That was nearly 100 years ago—September 28, 1923, the eighteenth day of the eighth lunar month.
Qiantang River tide in Haining (circa 1906-1909) [de] Ernst Bergerman Photo from the modern Chinese video database
How big was the tide that day?
Xu Zhimo wrote down the powdered bun head fish and tofu cabbage he had eaten, but did not write down the tide that day.
At that time, Xu Zhimo had returned to China for a year, and his marriage to Zhang Youyi was deadlocked, and he could not ask for Lin Hui, while Hu Shi, in the Yanxia Cave on the shore of Xizi Lake, quietly opened a love affair with his cousin Cao Peisheng.
Also, the tide in everyone's heart is already surging enough. Then, during the Mid-Autumn Festival, it is not surprising that the tides of the Qiantang River crash on the shore day and night.
The autographed photo given by Xu Zhimo to Hu Shi Is from Xu Zhimo's former residence
Originally, Xu Zhimo also wanted to invite everyone to watch the night tide, "After seeing it, he drove the boat to Jiaoshi, ate the lamb noodles of Jinxiaguan in the morning, then went to Yuqiao to see the maple leaves, and then took the morning train to leave for each north and south." ”
However, some friends insisted on returning to Shanghai, so they separated in the afternoon red light, half to the south and half to the north. Xu Zhimo followed Hu Shi and his party to Hangzhou to "find happiness" ("West Lake") and live in the Xinxin Hotel, swimming in the lake, eating crabs, and looking for gui.
【1】
For people who have lived in Hangzhou for a long time, watching the tide is not uncommon, but Xu Zhimo's unfinished "watching the night tide" this time has always attracted me to want to find out.
On the Saturday night when the "candu" hit, I said I would leave, and I went straight to Haining with my family. Thinking that the salt officials Xu Zhimo had been to might be crowded, we stayed overnight in Liangjiadun, a small village by the Qiantang River. However, after a night of heavy rain, not only could the tide not be seen, but even the river could not be seen clearly.
Early the next morning, this tide-watching trip turned into Xu Zhimo's visit.
Former residence of Xu Zhimo
The former residence of Xu Zhimo, built in the autumn of 1926 in Haining Jiaoshi, does not need to be said again, from which Xu Zhimo's creation, friendship and marriage can be seen. The poet's reputation is so prominent that the display in the former residence and the story behind it are already quite familiar to those who know Xu Zhimo.
The most striking chinese and Western-style building on Dry River Street, Xu Zhimo and Lu Xiaoman lived for only a month. The Old West River Street Mansion where Xu Zhimo spent his childhood and youth was demolished in 2001.
Interior view of the former residence
In fact, compared to visiting this former residence, I still want to find a more special trace of Xu Zhimo.
However, the old mansion does not exist, and the Xu family's industry - electric lights, telephones, money houses, transportation, silk industry... It has long been drowned in the tide of history.
I heard that the Xu family also has a sauce garden called "Yufeng", just on my way back to Hangzhou - No. 77 Xinghua Village, Chang'an Town. However, the former Yufeng has become Haining Yufeng Brewing Co., Ltd.
What does it have to do with Xu Zhimo?
【2】
Following the navigation, I found this sauce garden.
It is really a sauce garden, a tall pink wall of an old building, with the word "sauce garden" written innocently.
The old building of the Yufeng brewery area
The sentence at the entrance of the factory area, "Famous for one hundred and seventy years in Jiangnan, the mellow spice theory passed down by the poet's family" answered my initial question.
In fact, this slogan is already "old".
Overlooking the entrance to the Yufeng brewery area
Xu Zhimo's grandfather Xu Xingzai founded Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden in 1836 (the sixteenth year of Qing Daoguang), and is now 185 years old.
Xu's original origin was Kaifeng, Henan, and during the Zhengde period of the Ming Dynasty, Xu Zhimo's ancestor Xu Songting went to Jiaoshi to do business and settle down, and began the breeding of The Jieshi Xu clan.
Perhaps, a sauce garden is the foundation of the Xu family's prosperity.
By The time Xu Zhimo's father, Xu Shenru, the Xu family's industry has been involved in various fields.
Xu Zhimo's father and mother Picture from Xu Zhimo's former residence
From 1907 to 1935, Xu Shenru served as the premier, president and chairman of the Kip shek Chamber of Commerce for nearly 30 years. The reason why Xu Zhimo became Xu Zhimo is that he has a huge relationship with his father's management, including material abundance and extensive connections.
In the book "Zhi in Modernity", Xu Zhimo's grandson Xu Shan once wrote:
If you also had a grandfather who was a brilliant poet and wanted to follow in his footsteps, I'm afraid you would have a deep experience of what "influence anxiety" is. But the environment in which the four of us grew up was completely different from that of our grandfather, so we were also exempt from this "anxiety." We are not as fortunate as our grandfathers to be born into wealthy families, and we can pursue artistic creation to the fullest, without any food or clothing.
Because of this, Xu Zhimo's grandchildren, no one took the path of their grandfather. As Xu Shan once said: "In the United States, the four of us are immigrants, so we must be pragmatic. In order to earn money as soon as possible after graduation, we can only choose majors such as science and engineering or finance that are easy to find jobs. ”
And Xu Zhimo's life, probably the most important thing is to "pursue as much as you want", it can be said that the Xu family's sauce garden is a starting point for this kind of life.
【3】
There are not many records of Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden.
At the time of its establishment, its store was located outside the Kip shek Henggang Bridge, and later moved to Kip shek North Street. Many articles only mention Xu Shenru about him running Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden during the Republic of China and making it the largest in Haining. But most of them are brushed over, and there are not too many details.
In Mr. Liu Peiliang's "Xu Shenru: The Father of the Poet Xu Zhimo", there is a passage that I have seen about Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden.
The book included an advertisement in the Haining newspaper at the time, saying that Yufeng Sauce Garden on North Avenue was a "leader of the Kip shek sauce liquor industry".
Xu Yufeng's advertisement from "Xu Shenru: The Father of the Poet Xu Zhimo"
The title of "leader" is worthy of the name. In addition to "Haining is the largest", in Shanghai, it also has a certain influence, of course, this has a great relationship with Xu Shenru's appeal in the business circle.
Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden also led to the development of the industry, "Xu Shenru: The Father of the Poet Xu Zhimo" mentions: "In addition to Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden, in Jiaoshi successively opened Sauce Wine Workshops under the names of Yichangtai, Zhenfengheng, Wanfengsheng, Xiechangxiang and so on. ”
Watching the tide season, no matter from any village or field in Haining, or then to the Qiantang River, you can always see pieces of soybeans, which begin to bulge and full of pods, vigorously growing on the field, ditch, or pond.
Soybeans can be found everywhere in Chang'an Town
There were beans, there was sauce. The taste of Gangnam is always so natural when fermented.
However, how did Xu Zhimo's sauce garden come from Jiaoshi to Xinghua Village in Chang'an?
From the records of Fang Zhi such as "Chronicle of Jiaoshi Town", "Chronicle of Chang'an Town", "Chronicle of Haining Grain and Oil", etc., a clue can be roughly sorted out.
When Haining was liberated in 1949, the larger sauce garden had more than 10 families such as Xu Yufeng, Zhenfengheng, Wanfengsheng, Xiechangxiang, Yichangtai of Jiaoshi, Jiuzhengxin and Hengfengqia of Chang'an, Dingxinliang and Evergrande of Yuanhua, Weng Xiangmao of Xieqiao, and Yuanfeng of Xucun.
After the industry-wide public-private partnership in 1956, the production of Haining's condiment brewing industry was concentrated in Haining Brewing Factory (renamed in 1958) based on the original Xuyufeng Sauce Garden as the main site, and Chang'an Brewery in Chang'an Town. Later, Chang'an Brewery turned to MSG production and changed its name to Haining MONOS Glutamate Factory in 1979.
In October 1994, it was restructured into Haining Yufeng Brewing Co., Ltd., and in 2000 it was relocated from Jiaoshi to Xinghua Village in Chang'an Town. In 2008, it was renamed as "Haining Yufeng Brewing Co., Ltd." (hereinafter referred to as "Yufeng Brewing"), which has been in operation so far.
Yufeng brewery factory area
Open a copy of the "Geographical Names of Haining County, Zhejiang Province" published in November 1985, and under the entry of "Xinghua Village", it is written that there is a Haining MONOS glutamate factory in the village.
That is to say, more than a hundred years ago, the Haining wine sauce brewing industry led by Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden achieved a kind of aggregation at today's Xinghua Village No. 77, and the name it started from 185 years ago finally returned to our daily life.
【4】
On that day, Zhou Qing was also in the factory area.
If it were not for the name of Yufeng Brewing, I believe that many people are not strangers to Zhou Qing.
As China's first generation of advertising media people, Zhou Qing has many dazzling titles. He is the planner of many common brands in our lives, such as Wahaha, Youth Treasure, Conn Bay and so on. And Hangzhou people have a closer "contact" with him - have you ever been to Peach Coffee? Zhou Qing is its founder.
However, in the past two years, Zhou Qing has often been immersed in this sauce garden, which is an hour's drive from Hangzhou.
Follow Zhou Qing around the factory area, just like the brewing enterprises in Zhejiang, the whole factory area, the sauce is rich, some of the old tanks originally used for production are stacked in an orderly manner into a conical tower without a spire. "In the past, there was a non-hereditary heir of the curium tank in the factory," lest we not understand, he added, "that is, the craftsman who repaired the cracked sauce jar." ”
Nowadays, however, those sauce jars or jars have become a landscape.
The jar altar is no longer used much
Here, modern operations have replaced ancient brewing methods. But Zhou Qing stressed that the taste of Xu Zhimo's home is still there.
Sauce Garden has always played an indispensable role in the life of Gangnam. The taste of each sauce garden is different, and for people born and raised in a region, this taste has grown in the bones.
When I searched for "Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden" on the Internet, I saw a post posted by a netizen in 2008, Ta said: My classmate's grandfather used to like to use "Shima soy sauce" to cook vegetables, he would like to know if "Xu Yufeng Sauce Garden" is still there today?
This question is marked with 2603 readings below, which is not low for Haining's local interactive forum, and it is also followed by some questions and nostalgia.
From the past and present of Yufeng Brewing, it can be guessed that xu Zhimo's soy sauce "ruled" many haining people's taste buds.
Does Xu Zhimo's soy sauce really retain its original taste? Zhou Qing said: Yes.
Because today's Yufeng brewing still follows the old formula, the so-called formula, that is, in the brewing process, various raw material ratios, temperature and humidity and other conditions, are maintained unchanged.
Moreover, mechanized production, in addition to being more hygienic, also realizes a constant process such as fermentation.
Of course, mechanization is not always good.
The soy sauce that could be produced in 180 days in the sauce tank was extended to 210 days using mechanical simulated sun exposure. Naturally, the cost increases.
【5】
The "Shima soy sauce" that people think about, today has a new name "Xu House", which is a high-end brewing series brewed by Yufeng Brewing.
Zhou Qing, who has launched so many well-known brands, why is he content to work a bottle of soy sauce and stand in the queue of the founders of the Xu Zhai brand?
This is a question I wonder.
Leaflets for the factory area
Zhou Qing said that Jiangnan cuisine, of course, needs jiangnan seasoning, which is a kind of exploration that has made him addicted in recent years.
It just so happens that I was recently reading the new work "The Land of Fish and Rice" by Fuxia Dunlop, an Englishman who has studied Chinese food for 20 years, and this time, she let herself write about Jiangnan cuisine.
How should the food culture of Gangnam be described?
Chen Li, who prefaced the book, said: All kinds of proportions make Jiangnan's diet represent a unique culture of Jiangnan: not extreme, not ostentatious, harmonious and co-prosperous, and able to tolerate the opposites that have nothing to do with themselves in their own connotations. This is not only the charm of Jiangnan culture, but also the charm of the entire Chinese culture.
This paragraph also made me better understand the current Zhou Qing, "Xu Zhao" is not his interpretation of himself.
"Xu Zhai" has 185 years of roots, but also has a narrative based on the present.
It is written from the calligrapher Lu Dadong. Shortly after visiting Yufeng Brewing, I listened to a lecture by mr. Wang Dongling, a calligrapher, at The Xiaofeng Bookstore in Hangzhou, and Lu Dadong was one of the guests. Lu Dadong said that he was a follower of Wang Dongling, saying that he "everything about modern calligraphy comes from Wang Dongling's teacher." ”
Calligrapher Lu Dadong's "Xu House"
The picture of the bottle body of "Xu Zhai" comes from a Shanxi illustrator Niu Jiang , Zhou Qing said that he was a strange person. Gangnam dishes, either braised or freshly mixed, are included in Niujiang's pen. It is reminiscent of the fact that perhaps it is precisely because a drop of soy sauce goes down that the table is suddenly full of life.
Illustration from Shanxi painter Niu Jiang
I think that 98 years ago, Xu Zhimo saw the boat dishes eaten on the ship on the tide road on August 18, and probably also had the participation of soy sauce. Otherwise, how can those "big white meat, powdered bun head fish, tofu cabbage, and taro" make "everyone eat very happy".
Yufeng brewing is near the river, if you go from the entrance to the end of the factory, open the door is the river.
Zhou Qing said that in the era of developed river transport, this door was opened to the dock, and in the early years, the sauce gardens led by "Xu Yufeng" were sent to various places through large and small docks.
At that time, the situation was similar to this 1938 advertisement for the Xianghua Bridge south of the Xianghua Bridge outside the west gate of Jiading City The picture is from the modern Chinese video database
The factory area on weekends is relatively quiet, but behind the busy assembly line and the high list of finished products, there is a light and rich taste of life tide, it is also the tide of the trend.
August tide on the Qiantang River
After shopping yufeng brewing, along the Wengjin line parallel to the river, find an entrance to the Qiantang River, and even catch the tide at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, although it is not monstrous, but it has a different taste.
Well, the tide that should come, will still come.
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Source: Qianjiang Evening News Hourly News