I love this mapo tofu. I also like the story of Chen Ma Po. I like it because it's homely. Homely, only the warmest and warmest, only the most intimate stomach, the people live is the day, is homely, a mapo tofu, can put down three bowls of rice, a virtuous woman like Chen Ma po, in order to accompany a lifetime. The homely taste of the city is the real fireworks.
The so-called life is nothing more than eating men and women. So someone once said that the love of food should be like the love of beautiful women. And attaching beautiful women to the food, what noble concubine chicken, Zhaojun duck, Xi Shi tongue, is even more vivid and fragrant, so that people can not give up when they see the name, and want to be close to the "beauty".
But I think that these beauties are far less kind than Chen Ma po, and those delicacies are far less than the "bashi" and "ease" of Chen Ma Po tofu, which feels like floating from the clouds to the kitchen full of fireworks, full of the smell of life.
When it comes to history, it is a matter of ancient and modern times, all of which are laughed at. Since it was a joke, not to talk about it, so my thoughts returned to Chengdu, back to the mapo tofu I had eaten, and it was as if I saw Chen Mabo telling the story of herself and the tofu.
The story takes place during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, there is a "Chen Xingsheng Restaurant" next to Chengdu Wanfu Bridge, the owner Chen Chunfu passed away, and the hotel was run by the hostess. The lady boss has a slight hemp on her face, known as "Chen Ma Po". On the Wanfu Bridge, there are often peddlers and pawns who stop here and sharpen their feet. Often buy some tofu and beef, and then scoop some vegetable oil from the oil basket and ask the hostess to process it on her behalf.
The tofu cooked by "Chen Ma Po" is fresh and spicy, and the taste is "Bashi Deban", so as the days go by, the name of "Ma Po Tofu" spreads. "Jincheng Bamboo Branch Words" has a record: Ma Po Chen clan is still famous, and tofu is the most refined. The curtain on the side of Wanfu Bridge is moving, and Mr. Hegu Chun is drunk...
The story of "Chen Ma Po" is moving, but Ma Po tofu is even more delicious and tempting.
Tiger had the honor to go to Mianyang to take a picture of the book for Master Lanming Road, and also learned a lot about the cooking principles of Mapo tofu he made with Mapo tofu, and knew a good mapo tofu, "hemp, spicy, crisp, fragrant, hot, tender, and boiling" The seven-word magic trick is indispensable, he is the hemp aroma of peppercorns, spicy is the spicy of Pixian watercress, and the crisp is the crisp of fried beef buns. Incense is a thick bottom flavor, hot is to eat hot, tender is the smooth tenderness of bile tofu, and the word "bundle" is the last hook of mapo tofu. It is said that in the past, the taste of eating it felt like one word less than not giving money.
Good taste naturally requires good ingredients, and raw materials must be exquisite: tofu should be good, and to be tender and fragrant salt brine bile tofu. Beef to tender tenderloin, must not be ribbed, spices are more exquisite, Tongchuan tempeh, erjing pepper noodles, green onion ginger garlic rice, soy sauce white sugar green garlic seedlings are indispensable, the most important thing is the pepper noodles, preferably Hanyuan Da Hong Pao, and to be freshly made, to maintain the fragrant flavor of peppercorns. And the most important thing is to have a good Pixian Watercress.
Do it also exquisitely.
Beef tenderloin is cut into finely chopped lamb by hand, and sautéed in hot oil until crispy, the so-called "crisp" word in mapo tofu refers to the fried crispy beef.
Cut the bile water tofu into small square pieces, boil in water, add a little salt, order a few drops of soy sauce, blanch the tofu, add salt to give the tofu to remove the bean smell, set and base into the flavor. Soy sauce is for the sake of adding some sauce and then adding some color.
Start the stove, sit in the pot, hot oil in the pot, the old oil should be mixed with lard and rapeseed oil, the ratio of 1.5.8.5 in winter, and the ratio of 37 in summer is better. Wait for 60% of the heat, add chopped Pixian bean paste and tempeh, green onion, ginger, rice, garlic rice, stir-fry, and then sprinkle a spoonful of two thorn pepper noodles, while Lan Minglu master uses knife-edged chili peppers, which are sautéed with chili peppers and peppercorns in very little oil until crisp, and then chopped with a knife. The sautéed soup is red and shiny, and then add a part of the sautéed beef belly Titian. Then add blanched tofu, add broth to boil, sprinkle white sugar drops soy sauce, white sugar to improve the color of fresh soy sauce, and then turn the heat to simmer into the taste, there is a saying in Sichuan, Mapo tofu is not "burned", but "(dǔ)", now this word is generally abbreviated as "Du", refers to the sound of food in the pot grunting small fire slow simmering, Jiangnan famous vegetable pickled Tuk fresh, Tianjin's tuk gluten, is this meaning. The so-called thousand rolls of tofu and thousands of rolling fish, so the essence of mapo tofu in addition to the wonderful use of spicy, but also must rely on the "tuk" of the heat of the simmering ah.
It is said that good Mapo tofu should be hooked three times, because tofu will repeatedly come out of the water in the process of "Du", and the first course will make the taste into the tofu. The second channel has a better pulling effect. The third course makes the tofu completely bond and no longer spit out the water. Therefore, hooking three times will ensure the smoothest and tender feeling of tofu, which is also the "bundle" of tofu in Mapo tofu.
For the last time, sprinkle the garlic and the remaining beef buns. From the pot to the plate, the utensils must be hot, Mapo tofu to eat is a "hot" word, and finally sprinkled with a layer of sesame pepper powder, a plate of authentic Mapo tofu is finished.
When the mapo tofu is served, the snow-white tofu is tender and dripping, wrapped in a circle of translucent bright red red oil, red and white, the color and taste are fresh, the red minced beef is dotted on it, the oily green inch long garlic seedlings, the emerald green is very colorful, the dots of pepper powder are interspersed, and the aroma that comes from the nose makes people salivate. Sandwich a piece, fragrant, hemp, spicy three flavors in the mouth immediately spread out, that soft and smooth tofu, delicate and soft, fresh soft and smooth, fragrant overflowing, really spicy, hot, fragrant, crisp, tender, fresh, live eight flavors are complete. It's like green bamboo, endless, the taste is partial and layered, without hiding the original bean aroma of tofu, and then a bowl of rice, it is simply perfect.
Once, I ate a Guizhou version of Mapo tofu at a shop in Guiyang called Qishi. It's also very interesting. Compared with the Sichuan method, the other is almost the same, the difference is that the folded ear root is added, and the crisp whistle that Guiyang people love to eat, it has another flavor. I love to eat.
The most extravagant one of the ma po tofu I have ever eaten is in Lan Ting Thirteen Chef in Mianyang, master Lan Ming Road. Boston lobster roast mapo tofu, the lobster and tofu together, so that a piece of mapo tofu suddenly became a "rich mapo tofu", but large pieces of lobster meat, and smooth and tender tofu pieces, wrapped in spicy and fragrant sauce, is indeed enjoyable and delicious.
Chef Lan's innovative crispy mapo tofu is my favorite, after the mapo tofu is cooked, wrapped in a thin piece of glutinous rice paper, dragged with egg liquid, dipped in crumbs, into a 50% oil pan, fried until the skin is golden brown, and plated, like a plump pomegranate, beautiful and delicious.
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I think that whether it is the men who sell oil at the end of the Qing Dynasty or the men who love to eat Mapo tofu now, they are probably the same as tigers, and the reason for the addiction to Mapo tofu is not only addiction to taste, but also the yearning for this virtuous Chen Mabo, right? Although Chen Ma Po is not necessarily beautiful, she is diligent, strong, intelligent, and most importantly, virtuous, and... That kindness.
For meals, the mapo tofu under the meal is the best. Marrying a wife, or the virtuous Chen Ma Po is so good.
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