Intestinal Noodles is one of my few thoughts about Guiyang.
I don't like Guiyang very much, and I've told a lot of people about it. The response was basically: Oh. Never had her eyes widen, like a silly girl, muttered to me: Why is this? So I didn't think much about why, maybe it was a simple aura that wasn't right.
And I went to Guiyang for too many business trips. Last year, I had 121 days in Guiyang. In July this year, the high-speed train from Guiyang to Liupanshui was opened, and before that, I took a four-hour green car to Guiyang every time. There has never been a carriage that is home, but every time you step on the train, it is as if you enter a house with no fate and no bathtub, which can be used to temporarily escape the huge and tedious life.
And a bowl of intestinal noodles can often hedge off some of the boredom of travel, and can also pull me back from the closed carriage back to reality and embrace Guiyang.
Every time I take the subway to the fountain, I feel like I'm almost home, B stop exit out, leave The People's Avenue, go to Hequn Road, Jiang Jia Intestinal Wang Noodle Restaurant. Don't be too anxious, I know in my heart, no matter when I go, there will be more than a dozen people in front of me, waiting for their intestinal noodles.
We all feel that Guiyang people are a bit rushed to speak, like to talk about small squatters, like to say that their mothers sell batches. We love to learn what they say and find it interesting. As one of the important towns in the southwest, it is advertised as "refreshing Guiyang", and everyone eats heavily, which is not far from the two neighbors Chengdu and Chongqing.
The breakfast of the old Guiyang people starts with a bowl of intestinal noodles. © Qian Manfu
The three-piece set of intestinal noodles has been announced to the world in its name: fat intestines, blood wang, and noodles. These three brothers met in the late Qing Dynasty, and now that the Qing Dynasty has been dead for hundreds of years, they have joined hands in the long river of time to make the road wider and wider, farther and farther. Some people will ask, how to walk in the river? In the Old Testament book of Exodus, Moses asked the Lord in the same way, and the Lord said, "What is the use of wailing?" Tell your people, just move forward! Then raise your cane and point to the sea, and the waves will part, making a clear road for the people."
Whether Master Fu and Master Yan believed in Moses' cane or not I don't know, but they lifted up fat intestines, blood and noodles, wrapped them into their own canes, and made a dry road in the long river of time, so that the three brothers walked toward us and walked to the hearts of the Guiyang people, so that they would feel indebted for a day; to the eyes of me, a foreigner, I could not wait to eat it, and the soup would be drunk without a mouthful.
At this time, I remembered what I ate and what it looked like. The smoke was already lit, but I had to get up quickly and give up my seat to the next wave of people. I walked on the People's Avenue, letting the wind of Guiyang wipe the sweat on my forehead irregularly, and let me be a small citizen who was satisfied. The little citizen wanted to say to Intestinal Wangmian, "In the hopeless place, to heal people's loneliness is the bodhisattva's way."
When the intestinal noodles first come up, they are colorful. Oily red, yellow face, green onion, white intestines, dark brown blood on top, but also carry a few crisp whistles. The crisp whistle also appears red, but like two lipsticks, the color number is different. Each ingredient contributes its own color, blended in a bowl into a richly colored, three-dimensional poppy oil painting. But such paintings cannot be preserved for a long time, and diners are not willing to be aesthetic connoisseurs or collectors, but are willing to add oil and vinegar and mix with chopsticks - this is a declaration of sovereignty, indicating that this is mine, and I want to eat it dry and wipe it clean as soon as possible.
Changwang, Changwang and Intestinal Wang are indeed a fairly beautiful coincidence, a somewhat broken harmonic stem. I guess at first it wasn't for the sake of auspiciousness. Because you see, "intestine" and "wang" are indeed in it. Maybe Intestinal Wangmian himself will think, the name is absolutely honest, as for the harmony with "Chang Wang", that is not my intention, but it is not bad.
Fat intestines white brine, before brine, blanch water, then add salt, vinegar kneading, change the knife into small pieces, add ingredients and simmer until the rake is soft and smooth. © Scattered
Intestines, when I look at the fat intestines in the intestinal noodles, I will have a momentary memory of the scene of killing pigs in the New Year when I was a child, and my uncle inserted a long bamboo skewer into the pig's intestine and turned it over to wash. I didn't plan to learn this skill, but I learned the skill of eating fat sausages easily. The fat intestines are kneaded and cleaned with salt and vinegar, and then smaller with a knife, and salt, vinegar and various spices that we cannot know are stewed and boiled, and put into the intestine noodles, handsome and clean, and have long since lost their original hideous appearance and pungent smell. Martin Sr. wrote valar dohaeris in A Song of Ice and Fire (High Valyrian, meaning "all mortals need to serve"), and I think that everything needs makeup. Take a bite from a bowl and bring it to your mouth, soft and smooth, chewy and not difficult to chew. This is my first bite of intestinal noodles.
Wang, in "Speaking the Text and Explaining words", writes 暀, Hikari Ya, from the sun to the sound, Yu Fang. Wang is a good word, Chinese like it. Mao Blood Wang, is the animal blood salt coagulated food, often have duck blood, pig blood, chicken blood and so on. The blood in the intestinal noodles is made of pig blood, very thin, but not scattered, not broken, eating extremely smooth and tender, the entrance will melt. As a diner, it is difficult to imagine the story behind this, Guo Degang often said, "Covered in iron, how many steel nails can be hit?" A cavity of blood, can you make a few bowls of hair and blood?" 」 How a pool of pig's blood was scalded, how it was sliced, how the master wielded the knife, how to boil it, how to sink to the bottom, how to salvage, were all hidden, and when he said goodbye, the master had already unified the rivers and lakes. This is my second bite of intestinal noodles.
Compared with rice noodles, Guizhou people are not so fond of eating noodles, or not so professional. The noodles used for intestinal noodles are alkaline water surface, thanks to the credit of buckwheat flour and eggs, the color is yellowish, the taste is crisp and crisp, there is an alkali taste, slightly like instant noodles that have not been soaked, red oil is attached to it, looking bright and spicy, it is actually not, very fragrant, I want to chew it up quickly, and then pinch it. Guiyang people are definitely not happy to hear this, saying that your little girl's mother sells batches how to talk, how is it like instant noodles? I said I didn't mean that, it was delicious, really delicious. This is my third bite of intestinal noodles.
Crispy whistle, formerly known as "crispy", is a crispy meat belly. ©aihuazhu.com
There is one more thing that must be mentioned in the intestinal noodles, that is, crisp whistles. At first, there was no crisp whistle in the intestinal noodles, so it did not have the naming rights, and perhaps "Intestinal Wang's crisp noodles" is also a good name. The addition of crisp whistles really makes the intestinal noodles go up a step, and it is more layered to eat.
The crisp whistle was supposed to be written as "crisp", guiyang people flat tongue indifference, the hawker wrote a typo, it is a mistake to the end. Crisp whistle, in fact, and oil slag is not much different, said and oil residue is not much different, and I have to say that guiyang people's crisp whistle is indeed better - oil slag is too primitive compared to it.
Take pork belly as raw material, fat and lean, cut into thumb-sized cubes, fry into thumb-sized oil residue, add wine, vinegar, soy sauce, stir-fry out of the pan, that is, crisp whistle. The crisp whistle in the intestinal noodles, like a naughty ghost, neither sinks to the bottom, nor floats to the soup noodles, likes to play hide-and-seek, hides under the fat intestines or bloody wang, finds a stuffed in the mouth, crunchy, is a small blessing. This is my fourth bite of intestinal noodles.
Cheng bites Jin with three axes: splitting the head, ghost teething, and plucking ears. After hitting these three axes, you can't call out the name. I didn't hesitate to let go, after eating these four bites, I was going to fight. Take a big bite of noodles and drink soup, no modern civilized people should have, and then call a brine egg, a piece of brine tofu into the noodles and swallow it together. The soup of the intestinal noodles is great, it looks red and spicy, but it is just right to drink, very fresh, so the soup can also be drunk without a mouthful. Based on intestinal noodles, each intestinal noodle restaurant has developed other noodles, plus other toppings, large ribs, spicy chicken, hoof flowers and so on. Spicy chicken is more popular, and there is a new name: chicken intestines Wang.
There are many gut noodle restaurants in Guiyang, and perhaps every Guiyang person has his own ranking in his heart. The general taste of some people queuing is not bad, the most famous is the Jiangjia Intestinal Wang Noodle Restaurant on Hequn Road, the other two are the South Gate Intestinal Wang Noodles and Cai Jia Wan Gold Medal Luo Ji Intestinal Wang Noodles, Shahe Street Lei Jia Intestinal Wang Noodles are also good, these are my foreigners to the "foreigners" recommendation. These noodle shops are open from early in the morning until 3 p.m., so they can only be served for breakfast or lunch.
Writing this, I have swallowed a lot of saliva, picked up my mobile phone to look at it, and received a notice to go to Guiyang for a business trip tomorrow morning. Thinking that tomorrow I can eat intestinal noodles again, I will sleep better tonight, and I only hope that the ha lazi in my dreams will not flow to the pillow of reality.