#吃在贵阳 #
Original: Chen Buyi A big bite of the food list
50 years ago, my grandfather worked hard to get out of the mountains, entered a medical school in Chongqing, and bid farewell to his hometown of "no three days clear, no three miles flat".
50 years later, I stood on the streets of Guiyang, stuffed my mouth with food, inquired about local housing prices, and pondered whether to return to Guiyang to settle down in the future.
The high-speed train from Chongqing to Guiyang is open, which only takes two hours, which is very convenient. I still remember the first time I went to Guiyang, I sat for a whole night in green skin.
In my heart, I think that Qiancai is delicious and does not lose Sichuan and Chongqing. But why is sichuan cuisine famous? In the end, it is still the rare ingredients there, and in the young students whose cold chain technology is not developed, outsiders are not blessed.
01
Gold Medal Luo Ji Intestinal Noodles
9:00 a.m
The so-called "intestinal wang" has the meaning of "chang wang", and also refers to the two ingredients of fat intestines and blood wang. There is a unified standard in the industry for the treatment of these two ingredients - the intestines should be soft and the Wangzi should be tender. But that's not all about a bowl of sausage noodles.
In addition to the intestines, the noodles must be lye water eggs or duck egg noodles, which are bright yellow and curved, and the tendons are chewy; the soup must be a fresh soup made of barrel bones and bean sprouts.
As for the whistles in the noodle bowl, they are oil residues made by cutting four squares of fat pork marinated with sake. Guiyang people have a scale that is not bad in the heart of the crispness and taste of the whistle, which is also the factor that can directly reflect the quality of a bowl of intestinal noodles, and absolutely dare not be sloppy.
The Cheng Guanwang at No. 1 Longjing Road is my grandfather's memory of his hometown, which has been a benchmark in the industry for a long time, because of the old-fashioned, the spoonful of thick red oil makes young locals and outsiders daunted together, and now only a little elderly Guiyang people patronize.
The business of the Jiang family on Hequn Road suffered a major blow because of the demolition of the entire street, and somehow, it was his family's soup that also decayed, and the deliciousness was no longer what it was.
The only two have become the old shops of Internet celebrities: one is the gold medal Luo Ji, and the other is the south gate. These two are like Ximen Chuixue and Ye Gucheng at the top of the Forbidden Purple, and they can't fault anything from kung fu, but as a 24-hour eating and drinking guide, my choice is the gold medal Luo Ji of Cai Jia Street - because 300 meters away from the Gold Medal Luo Ji is the next destination we want to recommend - Ding Jia Crisp Whistle.
02
Ding jia crisp whistle
9:45 a.m
Located on Minsheng Road, Dingjia Crispy Whistle is the first crisp whistle specialty store in Guiyang, which began in 1978. The model of the front shop and the back factory makes this store fragrant for all seasons.
The former Dingjia crisp whistle only sold crisp whistles made of fatty meat, and later the soft whistles made of lean meat were also well received, and the half fat and half thin five flowers could make everyone who tasted it exclaim amazingly.
I don't know when it started, Ding Jia Crisp Whistle also began to sell lard. Passing by the door of the store, the smell of lard wafted out of the house, the cauldron heard a grunting sound, the white lard was put into a plastic bag, and the dark brown crisp whistle, soft whistle, and five flowers were placed together, breaking into the memories of the Guiyang people, stirring them up.
03
Minsheng Road Vegetable Market
10:00 a.m
Opposite the Ding family's crisp whistle is a vegetable market that can be treasured. In June and July of each year, the stalls selling mushrooms come alive. Yellow silk fungus, purple flower fungus, these things that seem to the people of Guiyang are lost half as soon as they are transported out of the mountain fragrance.
Guiyang's mushrooms are not as diverse as those in Yunnan, but the Guiyang people who rely on the mountains to eat the mountains enjoy a treasure that is inexhaustible. The gifts in the mountains are far less than the mushroom food, and the treasures like wood ginger emit a cold fragrance.
And all of the above is just describing a small stall at the entrance of the Minsheng Road Vegetable Market, with small can not see the big, the taste can only be tried in person.
04
Old Kai slang sour soup fish
12:00 p.m
A provincial capital is a collection of provincial flavors. After the county's restaurants became famous in the local area, most of them had to conquer the taste buds of the people in the provincial capital before reaching the national market, and the old Kai slang sour soup fish that opened all over Guiyang was one of them.
Qiandongnan has the habit of eating sour soup, with Kaili being the most famous. Carey's family makes sour, there are red and white points:
Red acid is the result of tomato fermentation, and white acid is the product of rice soup fermentation. No matter what kind of sour soup you make, you will use wood ginger. Wood ginger has a high status in spices, like peppercorns but not numb, with the fragrance of juniper seeds and lemons.
The old Kai slang sour soup fish on the provincial capital road is a shop that everyone in Guiyang knows, and the taste is really good, it is too sour. I believe that Guizhou people have the ability to taste fresh through sour taste, but for people from other provinces, ordering good fish does not make much sense. A sharp-billed fish, and then a few yellow rattans, are already a configuration of five people.
I came to Guiyang many years ago to eat sour soup yellow waxing, when the yellow salading was very small, the thickness of the thumb, a sip into the mud, it is wild, delicious. Now the palm size of the yellow lading abounds, fat, but the taste is low.
In addition, the old Kai slang's "millet" is worth a try.
Millet is a famous dish in Guiyang, the glutinous millet washed and rinsed dry water, mixed with brown sugar, lard and soy sauce marinated pork belly diced in a cage steamed out, it is simple to say, to really ask the store for details, they are also embarrassed but polite to say to you: "At home can not make this taste, if you really want to eat, please come often." ”
05
nectar one cafe
14:30 a.m
Hu Ying, a native of Guiyang. Four years ago, she won the World Barista Championship (WBC) China And the World Coffee in good Spirit, becoming the first barista in the country to win two top coffee competitions.
In 2016, she represented China at the World Barista Competition, successfully advancing to the semi-finals and finishing in the top 12. After that, she hid her merits and fame and returned to Guiyang to continue running the café called Nectar One , which is the n1 that allows coffee lovers across the country to go to worship.
Hu Ying's beans come from various boutique production areas around the world: Yunnan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Costa Rica... According to the different production areas, different treatment methods, different moisture content, density, etc. of each green bean, she first roasted through the sample, then carried out a large number of cupping records, and finally selected the roasting curves of different coffee beans.
With her pursuit of the ultimate flavor balance and imagination, she has let countless Guiyang people taste the real racing grade coffee.
When it comes to coffee, this native Guiyang girl is full of light, she knows that the road to let Guiyang people accept specialty coffee is very long, but as a champion coffee master, sharing specialty coffee is an unshirkable thing.
She loves coffee as much as she loves her hometown.
06
Izumi
18:00 a.m
There are many reasons to love Guiyang: maybe because you love your hometown, like Hu Ying; maybe because Guiyang's ingredients make cooking full of infinite possibilities, like Song Dexin...
Song Dexin is the head chef of Quanshang Restaurant, from Zhanjiang, Guangdong. Twenty-two years ago, he fell in love with Guiyang for the first time. He loved photography and food, and over the course of twenty years he traveled to every corner of the world before returning to Guiyang to open izumi, a restaurant popular with business magnates.
The signature dishes on the spring are related to Guizhou, but the vision is not limited to Guizhou. At the 2016 Guizhou Global Promotion Conference, Chef Song conquered the taste buds of 500 diplomats with a wide-open and harmonious dish, using ingenuity.
Wood ginger roast duck, using the smoke generated by the roasted wood ginger flower to smoke the fat duck, the flavor substance remains on the surface of the duck skin, and the duck meat is discarded. The smell of the oily duck skin is overflowing, the excess oil and gas is chopped under the horse by the wood ginger dipping sauce, and the confrontation of flavor is indissoluble on the tongue moss, and the afterglow is long.
"Sake goju beef" is a low-key dish name, who would have thought that it was yakuzaku wagyu beef sirloin?
Place the Wagyu Syring on top of a stone pot, heat the cobblestone pads to a nearly fully cooked level, pour moutai wine on fire, and let the whole Wagyu beef ripen in the last ten seconds. The volatilization of alcohol preserves the flavor of the sauce. The rich aroma of oil and sauce makes this dish incredibly mellow.
07
Shaanxi Road Night Market - Night Nocturnal Banzai Rice Bowl
22:00 p.m
A food stall on Shaanxi Road that makes rice bowls, called Ye Ye Xiang, was recommended to me by a friend of Guizhou TV station who made a food program. After I ate in Guiyang last time, I couldn't forget it, and this time I ran to make up a meal.
Every time the lanterns first shine, the night incense is set up at the door of the Construction Bank, and it has been done for 20 or 30 years, and the cauldron is full of vegetables and overflowing with fire. The plate tendon here refers to the pig plate tendon, which is rare in other places. In addition to the tendons that the "tendons" should have, there are also some lean flesh shreds attached to them.
The master chef of stir-frying seems to have a thousand pounds of strength, lifting the pot to ensure that all the ingredients inside are heated evenly, and the ingredients are thrown up and down like a wave, and the fireworks in the world are just like that.
08
Shaanxi Road Night Market - Liu Sanmei roasted brain flowers
22:15 p.m
It is reasonable to say that Chongqing people absolutely do not look at the roasted brain flowers in other places - and I, even the roasted brain flowers in Chongqing, do not like it. Brain flower smell fishy, whether it is hot pot or roasted, you must pull the hairy blood vessels attached to it in the water, the reason is understood, but it can be clean, it is also very few.
The people of Guiyang are clever, using the folded ear root (houttuynia cordata) to take the tender root and place it on it, and the little fishy smell of the brain flower that still exists meets the fishy defeat of the houttuynia cordata. Because it is a tender root, the taste does not rush to the throat, and even I, who can't eat houttuynia, can accept and like it.
As for why the roasted brain flowers of this shop are at the bottom with cabbage, the stall owner said that it is fragrant and absorbs oil, in fact, looking around the whole of Guiyang, only this one uses cabbage instead of tin foil roasted brain flowers, for the lovers of folded ear roots, this stall is definitely worth a try.
09
Gentleman's Court
23:00 p.m
According to people, this should be the only whisky in Guizhou Province. "Unique" is never a reason for us to try, but the Gentleman's Court will be.
Feng Ge, the owner of the Shengge Club, is a top collector in the field of single malt whisky in China, and he opened the shop into a corner of Guiyang Central Park, the so-called big hidden in the city center, but so. There are more than 600 whiskies in the Gentleman's Court, of which 300 are available for tasting by a single glass, including some single-barrel, limited-edition rare wines.
The poet Cao Zhenyi has been working hard in the stick village of Guizhou for more than ten years to develop the Taizhi ham for the treasure of the Shengge Society, so that the small night breeze in this park is more comfortable than the Jiaxiu Building.
10
Sheraton Guiyang Guihang Hotel
1:00 a.m
Even in the early morning of the summer in Guiyang, you can still feel a little cool when walking on the street. When I went back to the hotel to take a hot shower, open the curtains, and overlook the Jiaxiu Building, I deeply felt that "tonight's night is really beautiful" is not just a love sentence. In the heart of the city, only this small old pavilion bears witness to the city's ups and downs.
When you leave the hotel in the morning, the technical arbutus on the table is a locally developed variety. Suddenly, I found that the few grains that I didn't have time to eat were also replaced with old ones. Bayberry juice is placed at the head of the bed when the hotel opens the turndown, and a sip is not sweet, but it is indeed a good antidote.
Many people don't understand why Hu Ying, Song Dexin, Feng Ge, Cao Zhenyi... These dazzling stars in their respective fields are willing to settle in Guiyang, a land that is not very rich – in fact, if you look at Guizhou's GDP growth rate, you can see that the economic development lag is temporary, and the lack of understanding of top ingredients, coffee and whisky by Guizhou people is also temporary.
Even in the poorest years, guiyang people have never felt lack. Even if the wanderers who leave home go out of the mountain, the stomach will pull them back. Even if they don't go back, their children and grandchildren will follow in their father's footsteps and marvel at everything that is buried deep in their genes.