This article was published in the 30th issue of Sanlian Life Weekly in 2017, and the original title was "Hangzhou Night Stall, The Stability of the Civilian World", which is strictly prohibited from being reproduced privately, and infringement must be investigated
Text/Wang Danyang
More than one person in the Hangzhou food industry told me that Hangzhou people don't know how to eat, so Hangzhou's food is mainly based on low prices and good quality. When it comes to the late night supper in old Hangzhou, in the eyes of "North, Shanghai and Guangzhou", it is not a living and fragrant, for them, noodles and stinky tofu are enough to entertain the long night.
Fat Big Sister's Stinky Tofu Shop, although the door is not large, but the customers are endless every night (Photo Zhang Lei)
<h1 class="ql-align-justify" > Lin'an Night Market is never there</h1>
"Hangzhou has no special characteristics of supper, except for eating noodles, the rest are not suitable for supper." Hu Beaver, who has been doing food reporting in Hangzhou for 17 years, said so. At first, I wondered why noodles could become a kind of night food, I thought that Hangzhou was a rich and prosperous place, "one night fish and dragon dance" should have something to eat, the record of its night market in the "Mengliang Record" is that all things gather, all walks of life and hundreds of cities, "from outside the Hening Gate to under the Guanqiao, there is no one who does not buy and sell."
This question has always bothered me, and later I learned that the wind and things are not the same as the past. The earliest record of supper in the "Record of Dreams" is that "it is the inner si means that the bureau is exquisitely supper and fruit, and the fruit is fried, sugar fried and marketed when the clusters of fine fruits are combined", the supper originated from the Northern Song Dynasty, flourished in the Southern Song Dynasty, and this Lin'an was once the source of the supper. A few years ago, Hangzhou people repaired the Southern Song Dynasty Royal Street, the geological team dug down, really dug at the bottom of the Southern Song Dynasty well-preserved cake brick pavement, vertical paved long stone, shaped like a cloud cake, so named; covering it is the marble bricks of the Yuan Dynasty, and then on the Ming and Qing Dynasties rocks and rubble mixed with the road ... Dynasties change, war and chaos, so that the initial prosperity is often short-lived, the Southern Song Dynasty trading day and night, night three or four drums, tourists retreat, five drum bells ring, selling morning market and opening doors.
Hangzhou people heard the night food stall again in the early 90s, that is the foreign language from Guangdong, so at that time, the residents near the Longxiangqiao Aquatic Market learned Guangdong, set up a shed in front of their homes, and fried a few small seafood for guests, and Hangzhou had a food stall. Hangzhou's earliest night stalls were called "Door Plate Restaurants", and in the 1960s, there was a restaurant called "38 Restaurant" on the side of Nanxing Bridge, which was mainly aimed at filling the stomachs of workers in three shifts at night. Door panel hotel, shaped like a long wooden board of the door panel, below the two long benches become a table, Hangzhou city passed between, this door board with unloading, installed is their own façade, dismantled as a desktop. The working people have written poems: the vertical door panel is horizontal for the table, and the coarse food is full of hungry people. Since ancient times, the delicacy is only because of hunger, hurried to eat and work.
Therefore, if it is said that Guangdong people eat supper is the civic culture under commercial civilization, then Hangzhou people eat supper purely as a need of the proletariat, especially in the "Yangtze River Delta" area of industrial workers, even if Shanghai is well-off, the 1980s and 1990s are nothing more than Yangchun noodles and chai wontons as a supper. Speaking of Hangzhou's proletarian supper can not avoid the East Bank of the West Lake, the West Bank of the Qiantang River Wangjiangmen, in the late 1980s, four noodle restaurants occupy a corner of the Wangjiangmen Railway Cross, every night at 12 o'clock, such as four night lights watching the railway tracks of the public security, state-owned factory workers, entertainment city girls and taxi drivers.
The alkali noodles of Wangjiang Facade Restaurant are the most worrying for Hangzhou people (Photo Zhang Lei)
<h1 class="ql-align-justify" > the "stomach-dropping" slice of night workers</h1>
Today's Wangjiangmen Railway Cross has shifted its entire position, the road is getting wider and wider, and the houses on both sides have been demolished and shrunk more and more. The railway bridge was still erected overhead, but the viaduct of Zhonghe Road blocked it from being conspicuous. The Hui Juan noodle restaurant opened in 1987 moved a few steps, Jia Huijuan is 67 years old, still staring at the noodle chef in the kitchen to make "Kataer Chuan". At the beginning, I don't know why this snow vegetable meat noodle has such a northern name, in fact, "Chuan" is a misunderstanding, Hangzhou dialect is called "汆", is a slang word, 汆 is the meaning of walking in boiling water, which means that this bamboo shoot slice of meat is in the water, and it is the old bottom taste that Hangzhou people are intoxicated with: fresh and tender.
This snow vegetable meat shredded shoot slice in Shanghai is only one of the toppings, but in Hangzhou it is the king of all noodles, so it is named separately. At the end of the 80s, the four noodle restaurants each have a dry fan, Kataekawa is the top brand on the menu, each noodle restaurant is surrounded by three circles outside the three circles, diners jokingly called "outer ring" and "inner ring", how many people gathered at night from the restaurant gathering in Longxiang Bridge, Qinghe Fang special taxi over, just for a bowl of greasy, fresh snow vegetable meat noodles, eat can "fall stomach" to go back to sleep.
Kata'erchuan pays attention to a bowl of one roast, definitely not the bottom of the clear noodles like Shanghai, the top of the top. Jia Huijuan told me about a bowl of snow vegetable meat noodles that she had eaten at the Shanghai Railway Station, and the most important thing for her was that the bamboo shoots were sweet, and the noodle soup was clear and watery, which was impossible for hangzhou people to make pieces of Erchuan. "That noodles can be eaten?" I can't eat it after one bite", for her, the common machine noodles in the Shanghai vegetable market can not be on the table of Hangzhou Laodizi, they grew up from the alkali noodles of Wangjiangmen.
The base is freshly fried, and the poured tuk dish that Hangzhou people like is the source of all deliciousness, which looks like pickled snow vegetables, but it is drier and fresher than the latter. Of course, Jia Huijuan will make upside-down vegetables, stacked with mustard greens, dried, cut, piled yellow, and kneaded with salt into the urn tight and firm, the secret lies in the altar mouth upside down, so that the fermentation waste liquid naturally flows out and is buried in the cool mud. The crushed powder ate the brine thoroughly, and it tasted so salty that "the eyebrows fell off", and the people of Hangzhou took a bite. After the base is fried, add three spoons of water, the fresh stir-fried vegetables and bamboo shoots will begin to open in the pot, the soup water will be rolled, three or two alkali noodles will be cooked, and it will take a few seconds to roll to pick up, in order to let the noodles eat through this fresh. This is called a bowl of a roast, pickled for a month of tuk vegetables, the natural operation of heaven and earth fermentation work are condensed in this bowl, not to mention that Hangzhou people are still adding salt and soy sauce in the process of rolling noodles, this is their home favorite, saturated and fresh, is a bowl of good noodles.
Several bamboo tents hang outside the door, and there are five or six rooms of Hui Juan Noodle Restaurant on Wangjiang Road, which was replaced here around 2000 because of the transformation of the old city at the Railway Cross. Dark marble floor, Hangzhou gray marble round tabletop, elbows on a slight sense of inability to wipe off, weak central air conditioning volatilizes the dampness of HuangMeitian, a bowl of plastic big red bowl of slices on the table, a layer of oil "clothes" floating on it, I remember Hu Beaver reminded, "Hangzhou people eat noodles is like to put a lot of oil and MSG." The noodles are hard tendons, from hu Xueyan's former residence opposite an old noodle shop into the alkali noodles, thirty years as a day, this side is flour and alkali plus water and into, alkali is more yellow and astringent, not easy to cook, less alkali is also rising, so the noodles also have to be compared with the old mage. The soup water that is burned into sauce and the noodles are blended with water and milk, and the two boxes are properly arranged, although the heart of the Hangzhou people is not very nutritious, unlike the Shanghai people who eat pickle meat noodles and iterate into yellow fish noodles, but there is a kind of affordability and stability that always reflects the poverty era.
< h1 class= "ql-align-justify" > noodle shop for 30 years</h1>
Wangjiangmen is the southeast gate of the ancient city during the Shaoxing period of the Southern Song Dynasty, outside the door is the Jiangtu field, the door can be seen from afar to see the Tide of Qiantang, the villagers to grow vegetables for the industry, so there is a "Wangjiangmen outside the vegetable burden" rumor. Jia Huijuan began to do it in this area at the age of 7, claiming to be illiterate and a bitter person, in the late 80s, in order to make money and take care of her family, she gave up the rushing vegetable business and went home to open a noodle restaurant. "All the noodles are my own, we just don't look good, not luxurious but full, others want to learn that is not learned..." She wore a flowing chiffon dress, and her lips were painted red, which made her look more outstanding in the oily kitchen. At the beginning, the four noodles of Kataekawa, Mixed River, Meat Silk Noodles, and Squeezed Vegetable Meat Noodles were actually a common practice that pleased a fixed group of people, but later various people who followed her could not restore that specific taste 100%, after all, the gesture techniques vary from person to person.
She has a flaw in this person and does not trust others. "My daughter told me to retire a long time ago, but I was not at ease, and I slowly raised it like my own child." This grandmother-like kind old lady has her own nagging and stubbornness, she is a well-known sonorous rose in the civilian catering industry in Hangzhou, everything in the store has to pass her hand, "It can be said that there is no boss in Hangzhou who is in the store every day like me." She arrives at 10 a.m. every morning and leaves at 8 p.m., which is a regular shift, and the evening shift is taken care of by her brother, but she doesn't sit down and chat with you. That day we were in the waiting area outside the storefront pulled two round chairs pulled, at 5 o'clock, the guests have sat in half the store, Jia Huijuan pulled me out just to not occupy the storefront, but also a strong worry about the recent business is not good, "not good, recently Huang Meitian, rain on the guests are few, usually are queuing up to call the number ..." She waved her hands, very dissatisfied.
Later, many varieties were born under her research, and in the 90s, the old duck pot of "Zhang Shengji" swept Hangzhou, Jia Huijuan thought about whether to use duck into the noodles, so she created a bamboo shoot dry ham old duck noodles; the kuiyuan hall of the state-run old noodle restaurant produced eel fried shrimp noodles, so the various jianghu noodle restaurants began to follow suit. But it is also a pumped bone, over-oiled eel segment, from each pot are crisp and soft, if burned into noodles, it is more difficult to grasp the key to the crispy outside and tender inside, so those new varieties have more or less changed the base of the slice of Erchuan, some can not be fried soup, they will use broth to cook noodles and then pour. Times have changed, the Luli City Square in Wangjiangmen has been razed and moved, the taxi drivers who open the taxi are no longer locals, the taxi drivers who still come to fill their stomachs every night are not necessarily accustomed to eating Tuk Tuk dishes, Hui Juan Noodle Restaurant has green snow dishes, and also makes tomato eggplant noodles...
In Hu Beaver's view, the noodle shops around Wangjiangmen are heavy in oil and have a lot of MONOS, which is an old-school taste, plus over the years, Huijuan Restaurant and so on have also opened a chain, "The noodle thing cannot be standardized, it must be tattered, 'dirty and not pulled' in the restaurant is delicious." With such a trendy diner, Jia Huijuan did not dare to let go for a moment, and the ratio of the amount of flour and the amount of water was all on her side, lest the new chef who was working like a flowing water had no measure on his hands, which would affect the freshness. Seasonal vegetables themselves run to the vegetable market every morning to pick, "Buyer I don't believe it!" "After all, she is a vegetable farmer, Pan whip bamboo shoots in May, Pan hollow cabbage in July, Tao Green Snow Vegetables in November... Buy more than a dozen pounds every day.
Familiar neighbors will still come in an endless stream, and see the lady boss greeting, "Don't be green" and "Know". Green finger green vegetables, Hangzhou people eat noodles do not like to add green leafy vegetables, refreshing green leafy vegetables after all and pickled salty taste is not all the way, but in order to cater to the four visitors, green vegetables can also be requested below. Jia Huijuan told me that there have been many tourists who have come to eat in the summer recently. "I'll be ready to renovate in November, it's too old." She shook her head again, never satisfied with the status quo.
Jia Huijuan (left), the owner of HuiJuan Noodle Restaurant, is a well-known "sonorous rose" in Hangzhou's civilian catering industry (Photo by Zhang Lei)
<h1 class="ql-align-justify" > "Hang version of Guan Zhilin"</h1>
The Pingle Noodle Restaurant next to Hui Juan Noodle Restaurant is also the leader of the Wangjiangmen Late Night Supper Noodle Restaurant, and the rest of the noodle shops have disappeared after the transformation of the old city, so it and Hui Juan Noodle House are equally divided. Speaking of Pingle, it was mainly stir-fried vegetables and noodles supplemented, because it was to eat vegetables, so the open air every night was very large. The boss did agricultural wholesale in that year, but also saw the wind of the night market of the railway cross, so the storefront with a rolling shutter door opened a restaurant, in fact, the house could not open the market at all, so even the briquette stove was placed outside, and the tin fence was made into a cooking area. At that time, to do the piece of Erchuan, a person on the coal stove to burn the juice head, next to the stand a noodle cook to catch the noodles under the pot, the coal stove fire is strong, the flames will be surrounded by iron pots, the oil smoke "poof" straight into the clouds, the old people are recognized as the coal stove burned pieces of the river delicious.
This year, the boss died, and Pingle fell into the hands of her daughter Chen Ping, who in her 20s in the early 90s was known as "Hangzhou Guan Zhilin". I met her in the restaurant, and sure enough, I told me in a sweet and sticky Hangzhou Mandarin, "Not now, no one will say that now when I'm old." When she was young, Pingle's cashier was also set up on the street, and she helped her mother to cash in, seeing that the stove was too busy to come, and she would also help with the noodles. After 9 o'clock, I went home with my mother on time, and the night shift was handed over to relatives...
Many people come to Pingle, drunkard means to take a look at Chen Ping on the cash register, once a group of male guests came over with a lot of care, "Look, like Guan Zhilinfa? The rest of the people responded one after another, as if they had discovered a new continent. Chen Ping was embarrassed for a moment, she did not know who Guan Zhilin was, but "Hangzhou Guan Zhilin" was circulated from the "City Express". As the only daughter of the boss of Pingle, she had already driven a small Xiali car in that era, driving in the crowded houses of Wangjiangmen, and after she was older, she and her girlfriend went to visit the earliest Esprit shop on Pinghai Road, and even the clerk knew, "Isn't this the daughter of the boss of Pingle?" ”
Recalling the past, there were three religions and nine streams in a museum, as if it was a microcosm of society, chen Ping recalled that it was "quite interesting". Of course, some little came to eat and stirred up her, but she knew that it would not be how, they were all in that kind of wine and meat field, taking advantage of the opportunity to eat and play, and they were familiar with each other. She squealed "Huh", and the other party was honest. "I said you old wine eat less Oh, they all listened", she said, and later these people also started a family, some of them became famous as the boss in Hangzhou, and they will not come again.
Shrimp slices at Hui Juan Noodle Restaurant (Photo by Zhang Lei)
The first batch of private restaurants in Hangzhou like Pingle are absolutely well-known in the jianghu, and the boss's connections are also extensive, but the bottom is still the world of civilians. Chen Ping's father and Jia Huijuan are also familiar with each other, he does wholesale, she does "Hangzhou sellers", all of them are farmers' circles, and later they all opened restaurants, and Jia Huijuan also rode a yellow fish cart to the door to sell eggs. At that time, there was a couple of noodles in Jiangxi, the wife was in Huijuan, the husband was in Pingle, the two looked at each other across the street, the level was the same, once which one was not burned, the guests could eat it, so Pingle and Huijuan did not dare to snub them.
Hui Juan has duck noodles, Pingle has lake lamb noodles, is specially imported from Huzhou lamb, according to the workmanship of the lamb pot, but will cut the lamb into cubes and divide into a part of the base. Of course, this can not be made freshly, so half of the base material is returned to the pot and burned, and the noodles are added. Pingle's noodles are thinner and wider than Hui Juan, Hui Juan's noodles are thick and round, using the alkali noodles of the same noodle shop, but the rolling method is different, here there is a big emphasis, the lasagna is thin, so it sucks more soup; the round noodles are thick and less soup, but more powerful, so, just from the surface, Pingle and Huijuan's "fans" should be clearly distinguished.
Later, Hu Beaver told me that Hangzhou still has a distinction between the south and the north, there is alkali in the south, there is no alkali in the north, and the people in the city love alkali noodles, so they disdain the noodles in Yuhang in the north of the city... I was thinking, the feeling of the noodle residue of Shanghai egg noodles, for them must not be very happy in the sense of food, and Suzhou fine noodles, although hard, but also not enough Q bullets, so Jia Huijuan and Chen Ping have opened a noodle restaurant for 30 years, have not eaten Suzhou noodles, Hangzhou noodles seem to have their own world.
<h1 class="ql-align-justify" > the arrogance of "old bottom"</h1>
At that time, there was a saying that "the south is expected to be a river noodle restaurant, and the north has a Tianshui Bridge bridge noodles", and later the bridge rice noodle shop closed, and the Shen Yinhua wontons in the Drum Tower and the Wonton King of Jianguo Road gradually grabbed the stomach of the night shift workers. The old Hangzhou people's supper is indeed a heavy food, the kind of real stomach, the same rice and noodles, Guangzhou's intestinal noodles and Shanghai's small wontons are exquisite and lighter. As for the barbecue, seafood and crayfish that later swept the country, Hangzhou also blossomed everywhere, but it was not the taste of Hangzhou in the bones.
The wonton king on Jianguo Road was closed a few years ago, and the jianghu rumored that the boss was not in good health. Hu Beaver said that the wonton shop was very impressive, the filling was only fresh meat and vegetable meat, and the husband and wife shop made limited quantities every day, "That soup is really delicious, only green onions, clear soup, and I have never drunk such a good wonton soup again." I have a hard time imagining what the threshold for a delicious ravioli soup can be. But a store can be printed in the hearts of Hangzhou people, and there is no shortage of people who deliberately patronize it. There is a section, Jianguo Road Fengqi intersection suddenly appeared a lot of wonton king, each family said that it is the secret recipe of the wonton king, Hu Beaver to find the boss who has been idle at home to ask the end, the boss replied: "I really do supper to make the body collapsed, you must know that I would rather not do wontons in this life, and I will not pass on the housekeeping skills to others!" ”
Old Hangzhou people will not go to Longxiangqiao Commercial Street at night, but will come to the noodle restaurant in Jiangmen (photo Zhang Lei)
I have seen too many restaurants call themselves "Laodice", I have asked Hu Beaver, what is "Laodice", the answer is the meaning of "before", this is Hangzhou dialect. There are a lot of civilians eating in the restaurant of Laodizi, some of which have only the same flavor for decades, and their wildfires are endless: closed and opened, opened and closed, the business is very casual, the name of the shop has also obtained a unique boss's personality, Shunmin snacks, Shen Yinhua wontons, fat big sister stinky tofu ... They are all well-known names in Hangzhou. Hu Beaver remembered that more than ten years ago, he had just worked as a food reporter in the "City Express", when the full-page food introduction was almost all jianghu small shops, and at the end of the article, there were reporters' telephone numbers, and newly opened stores could contact reporters to report, but there were some local bosses who had a lot of muscles, and you didn't pay attention to you when you found them.
"They think it's enough for him to have regular customers, and they don't need you to report at all, and there are a number of small shops in Hangzhou that have a lot of personality." She once went to a very popular restaurant, the owner said bluntly "we don't need", put her aside, when she walked out, stood across the street to take pictures of the storefront, suddenly "uproar", the boss poured a bucket of noodle soup on her from the side, and also had the words "who told you to shoot". Since then, as soon as Hu Beaver came into contact with a boss with a slight personality, he retreated.
There is a legendary Mixed River supper stall is also so high and cold, opened in Wushan Square next to the Drum Tower for 25 years, fighting guerrillas with the city management every day, the time and location of the stall are uncertain, and it is also a dragon for diners. Over time, the diners gave him the name "Wushan Mixed River King", mixed sichuan is mixed and mixed, essentially a kind of fishing noodles, the mixing of this mobile noodle stall on the river and lake is famous, which also seems to be a kind of epitome of the fine work in the slow-paced life of Hangzhou. Stir sichuan to use lard to fry the toppings, usually the meat wrapped in starch first, and then pour in leek sprouts, dried tofu with soy sauce and oyster sauce stir-fry incense, then the cold alkali noodles that have long been blanched are waiting to be stirred into the pot, the soy sauce-colored oil soup sinks at the bottom of the pot, and the noodles are overheated and mixed to eat the taste.
Too many young people who are entangled in hungry insects at night and can't sleep deliberately take a taxi to Wushan Square to find Sister Jin, in order to sit on the door table and eat a bowl of mixed sichuan in an enamel plate. Sister Jin's van may be parked opposite the Qingbomen police station or under Wu Shanming at any time, and five or six tables have magically come out. In order to negotiate with the urban management over the years, the stall time has even been extended to after midnight, but after midnight, as long as you can find her, you will definitely be able to see her and her husband a blanched noodles and a stir-fry, the trolley stove is always pyrotechnic, and the smell of cooked fried sauce is scattered in the beeping sound. She is said to be able to sell 300 bowls a night.
Why is a bowl of mixed noodles that can be drunk without fear of deep alleys? Sometimes you can't believe what it's so special about, but Sister Jin will say that as long as it's a gas stove, as long as she burns it, it must be delicious, or "I let go of more salt than you've eaten noodles", or the oil and salt sauce and vinegar of the commoners, but the legendary shopkeepers use tricks to attract people with the right taste. Since April this year, Sister Jin's WeChat circle of friends has been like performance art, predicting the time of the stall every day, "tonight rest", "tonight × open", "rain break", almost in this way and 4,000 "fans" interaction.
Recently, the "King of Wushan Mixed River" suddenly set up a storefront near Wushan Square, and finally ended his 25-year guerrilla career and started a regular business. This matter exploded in the Hangzhou food circle, the food public number competed for the headlines, the first day, Jin Dajie's business was still depressed, and the next day the queue was lined up outside the store. That night, at 9 o'clock, the goods were out of stock, Sister Jin was boiling lard in the kitchen, and every three or two minutes there were OFO bicycles or cars stopped outside the door, and a couple of couples and groups of young people came in, looking at the empty storefront one by one. "I'm sorry, boy, it's sold out", Sister Jin didn't know how many times she said hello that day, obviously after changing to the regular army, those night animals that haunted at night were not adaptable. After Closing, Sister Jin left with her daughter in a commercial vehicle, and a flipped sign quietly hung inside the glass door, "Sorry, the materials are sold out." There are still people running from afar, talking and taking pictures around the storefront that has turned off the lights, and they can't help but regret that Bai has come.
Fat Big Sister's stinky tofu and fried skewers are already Internet celebrity snacks for Hangzhou people (Photo Zhang Lei)
<h1 class="ql-align-justify" > stinky tofu civilian jianghu</h1>
I think of some small wonton stalls that were once popular in some corner of Shanghai, and even if they were hot at the time, they have long been swept into the dust of memory today. But in Hangzhou, it is different, a mixed Sichuan shop can survive the temptation of many taste buds of modernization, and has never been overwhelmed by the preferences of petty bourgeoisie and middle class, making people worry about being able to eat through half the city. Just as the "post-85s" Dongdong, who sells stinky tofu, said to me: "What do I want to eat for my supper?" The burden of small ravioli, pot stickers, buns, crayfish and barbecue is too heavy to eat! He has known Sister Jin since the 90s, when he washed the dishes for his mother who sold stinky tofu on Pinghai Road, played in the game room, and then walked two kilometers to Wushan Square to eat a bowl of mixed sichuan, and then went home to sleep.
But he also said that Hangzhou people have a kind of "Hangzhou's madness" that they also admit, that is, they like to rush up to everything, and the embodiment is super ability to queue, "even if the people in front of him say that it is not delicious, he also wants to taste it himself." DongDong's mother's "Fat Big Sister Stinky Tofu" is the craze of Hangzhou's stinky tofu, and the mixing river with Sister Jin is the legend of the two major roads in the 90s. Fat Sister was fried stinky tofu and meat skewers opposite the West Lake Cinema on Pinghai Road at that time, when watching night movies began to become popular, nightlife sprouted from the cinema to grow, selling fried things not only her, but stinky tofu is her most fragrant. DongDong stayed by the side of the fat big sister to help her wash the dishes since she was 6 years old, and the water pipe of his grandmother's house on Pinghai Road was connected to the door and dragged to the street to reach into the plastic bucket to wash the pots and pans. Now, the Apple flagship store in Hangzhou has stood on the former stronghold.
Now, fat big sister is the first sister of stinky tofu in Hangzhou, and has her own workshop of brine stinky tofu. According to dong dong, the secret of making stinky tofu is the key to time, there is no difference between tofu and brine, but the degree of fermentation is changing almost every minute. Stinky tofu is to fry off the most fragrant mold immediately when the mold is not yet moldy, when the color is gray and green and white, but this critical point is difficult to grasp. "The rate of fermentation rises geometrically according to the rate of cell division, and it is not right to spend two minutes in the summer." He spoke with a trick. He intends to make a living as a lifelong business, saying that the store will not be let go if it is borrowed. But obviously the fat big sister is not a small business, she has been on Wang Han's food program, when she was still playing guerrilla on the street, there was no shortage of celebrities patronizing, some were sitting in the nanny car, letting the assistant come down to buy, but like Jay Chou disguised on the stall to eat.
When Jay Chou came, he may be sitting on a certain street table and chair, Dong Dong did not find it at all, and the next day a TV friend came to inform him that Dong Dong was remorseful, "He is my idol, I knew that I would go up and sign it!" "Dong Dong follows the fat big sister brine stinky tofu every day, studying the ratio of oil temperature and different edible oils, only in this way can we improve the boiling point and control the degree of stinky tofu crispness." In his case, whether it is fried into charred skin or crisp can be adjusted by fermentation time and oil temperature.
Hangzhou people have a natural passion for fried food, such as one of the famous dishes "dry fried bell", in fact, is fried oil skin meat rolls, but they will relish the taste of the outer skin, thin as cicada wings fried well is the kind of light crispness. Stinky tofu is also, the oil temperature is high, take the water fast, will be crisp, the oil temperature is low on the shell hard, can be achieved, but the fat sister is going in the direction of crispness. In the past two years, the number of shops making stinky tofu in Hangzhou has soared, each with its own flavor, but the stinky tofu of the fat big sister is the fat big sister's.
Some of the rich second generation of catering tycoons are also idle, opening stinky tofu shops, and there are ordinary young people who have joined the stinky tofu army, saying that they know Winter and Winter to attract customers. But Dong Dong did not think so, this 30-year-old "stinky second generation" firmly sat in the top seat of the jianghu boss, he thought that those rich second generation out to play is rich and there is nowhere to spend, but he is serious about doing it. Whenever it is night, two rows of round stools are lined up on the terrace on the second floor of the West Lake International Trade Ladder, and people sit solemnly and wait for the call of the fat big sister, and it is not unusual to wait for half an hour when the business is good. How many media want to come to shoot, winter and winter have declined, this storefront was originally borrowed next door to sell eel rice friends a passage-like area, "what is there to shoot ah, people can not squeeze in." Winter and winter are not uncommon in publicity. Sometimes, some video public accounts support several relationships to say love, and Dong Dong is embarrassed to let shoot.
Hangzhou's dining circle is a jianghu with no secrets, it is full of righteousness, hostility, and also has no shortage of the length of the Wang family and the Li family, and as soon as there is wind and grass, it is full of wind and rain. Dong Dong learned to cook at the age of 20, and his master is Hu Zongying, the grandmaster of Hangzhou cuisine, hu Zongying is now the general manager of the Hangzhou Hotel, and everyone in the jianghu knows it. But one day when he was interning at a hangzhou restaurant, he was annoyed by a serving chef, picked up a spoon and smashed it on the other person's head, and has never had a chance with the kitchen world. "Chefs in Hangzhou are very grumpy." He said. At that time, the study and art were all talked about worshiping the master, and the child was driven by his parents to go to a restaurant on the street to talk to the master, and those who had a little talent were accepted after seeing the right eye. Whether it is the stinky tofu boss who is low to the dust, or the chain store boss, the famous store chef, there is no high or low in this circle, each has a world, and when they meet, they smile, maybe have a drink together, and then divide things.
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