Wen 丨 Rural Kobayashi Zi (original, welcome to reprint and share)
Today, I would like to introduce you to the practice of anchovies. As early as thirty or forty years ago, anchovies were popular in Jiangsu and Zhejiang restaurants in Taiwan, often appearing in the four appetizers, and they were all canned goods. Because of its rich taste, it is also delicious and suitable for appetizing wine, so it is very popular. I have loved this since I was a child, and I will be excited whenever I see it, and I will not get tired of eating it. However, in the past ten years, the price of canned anchovies has remained high, and there are very few restaurants in the restaurant, and they want to kiss a cream, only self-reliant relief, trying to find canned food. With the increase of horse teeth and the abundance of over-the-top delicacies, it is no longer keen on this.
Recently, he talked to a friend about wine, and he pointed out that anchovies should be fresh to be delicious, especially when the fish is full of fat in season, it is slightly hot, that is, it is crisp and crisp, and it is tempting to salivate. I was touched by it and asked him if he had a way? He said, "As soon as you get your hands on it, call you as soon as you get it." A few days later, I received a call from him, saying that the fish had arrived and was waiting for the honorable driver tonight. I listened to the great joy, and all day long my soul was not guarded, and I waited bitterly for the night to fall. At the appointed time, I took a bottle of "Jinjiu" (produced in Tianjin, which is both fragrant, fragrant, and slightly sauce-flavored Daqu Baijiu), and took a brisk step to go directly to the destination - the "Shanghai Xiaoguan" just a few arrows away from home.
The first thing to be served was the crispy fried anchovies, about fifty or sixty, tired and staggered on the plate, bulging like a mound, I looked forward to it, I could not care about the image, busy with a chew. This fish is indeed delicious enough, the first bite is very crisp, then slightly tough in the glutinous, the roe is fragrant and refreshing, and the whole tail can be eaten. After chewing slowly and swallowing, take another sip of white dry, that happy energy, although it is not easy for thousands of households. About a third, my friend was afraid that I would only sell this taste, and I served two thousand fried yellow croakers and three steamed small yellow croakers. Then each plate broke through the iron curtain, defected to the free stir-fried fava beans and collapsed vegetables, and at the end, it was a large pot of Shanghai lane-style curry beef tendon brisket.
After I enjoyed these delicacies to the fullest, I didn't feel refreshed, but I didn't have improvised poems, so that I could take a bite of Fu qi yuan. However, although there were many delicacies that passed the night, what I never missed was the hard-won plate of fresh anchovies. It belongs to the genus of the order Chosolin, the scientific name of the anchovy, is a coastal migratory fish, distributed in all estuaries along the southeast coast of China, and is the main economic fish species in the coastal estuarine area. Every year in the spring and summer, it must migrate to the mouth of the river to lay eggs. At this time, the female is full of eggs and is called a sub-whale.
The "Wenzhou Fu Zhi" contains a very detailed, Yun: "Oujiang Jiangxin Temple (located in JiangxinYu) is rich in dissolved fish, long tail flat body, abdomen and back like a knife, with children, the name of the solution, its meat is tender, delicious and delicious." Xiang is on a par with Yandang Mountain Tea and Tea Mountain Plum, known as the "Three Treasures of The Medical River".
China's anchovies into the food, about the beginning of the Southern Song Dynasty, in addition to the "Record of Dreams" recorded, Liu Zai also has a poem praise, cloud: "shoulders shrugged at the thunder, blush new out of the water." Pen with ginger cinnamon pepper, half-cooked fragrant floating nose. "Because the anchovies are small, they don't need to be scaled and dissected, but only need to remove the internal organs from the mouth, and then they can be cooked. After firing, because the bones are soft, they can be eaten with bones.
In general, fresh fish can be steamed and braised, but the most delicious fried food is used as cold cuts and appetizers. Wenzhou people often dry it until semi-dry, mixed with fennel, tea and sugar, first soak the fish, and then put it on a small bamboo basket and dry it with fire, the finished product is crispy and yellowish, the flavor is unique, and it is a gift of sincerity. In addition, local people often send this dried anchovy to relatives and friends at home and abroad to share the warmth of their hometown and win the reputation of "a bag of anchovies, a hundred miles of nostalgia". Regarding the anchovy, located in Wenzhou at the mouth of the Suijiang River, there are still two beautiful legends circulating to this day, the male protagonist is the same person, both of whom are Wang Shipeng during the Southern Song Dynasty. His elder brother Dian tried to win the championship in one fell swoop, and was a full-fledged Champion Lang, and the later official was a member of the Longtuge University.
Before Wang Shipeng was born, he sent a study of the history of the scriptures at Jiangxin Temple, often sipping tea and playing chess with the Zen master in the temple, and composing poems. It was the spring and summer, when the ten friends read until the middle of the night, the crisp and bright reading sound surrounded the riverbank, attracting flocks of anchovies to come to observe, but when they saw the silver light, they refused to leave for a long time, and since then they have formed a routine, and they have come to report every year and spread it as a good story.
Another saying is quite artistic, saying that after the ten friends finished their night classes every night, they relied on the river pavilion to admire the moon, and often improvised poems, one of which said: "The deep waves of the Zhejiang Hai River, the diligent thoughts are complaining and sorrowful." The guest officer guarded the cold window accommodation, and the road was free to travel near and far. At this moment, I suddenly saw the silver light on the river, and when I heard the sound of "splashing thorns and prickling", it turned out that it was a flock of anchovies jumping out of the river, gathering to listen to the ten friends chanting poems, so it was not lively.
The next night, the people were silent, the moon on the river bank sprinkled with clear light, the ten friends stepped on the cold dew of the moss and returned to the apartment, glimpsed the green bamboo bushes beside the camellia blooming, a light fragrance wafted into the interior, and could not help but say: "White camellia flowers are all over the isolated island, and the moon worship is only natural." The original jade people poured bamboo leaves, and the infatuation was constantly returning the soul. "
Suddenly smelling the slight sound of tea and bamboo, the ten friends rolled the curtains to watch, and faintly saw a woman in a light makeup dress and a graceful posture. Ten Friends then asked, "Whose woman?" Why is the night so far? The woman approached, slapped Zhu Lips and smiled lowly: "Lang Jun mo is not shocked, it is not a secret, the concubine is the silver phoenix fairy girl in the Ou River, admiring the name of the Jun to ask for poetry, it is not overnight to come here to listen to the poem." Shi Peng said happily, "On this rare and good night, it is indeed a blessing to meet the fairy goddess, and Xiaosheng should give a volume of poetry." The woman took the poem and flew away, and in the blink of an eye, she did not see a trace.
Having tasted the fresh and canned anchovies, I have a small wish in my heart, hoping to get the crispy and fragrant dried anchovies as soon as possible, choose a beautiful scenery, send it to the mouth with white dried fish, moan randomly, and draw a gourd like this, isn't it also a joy in life?
I like to eat fish maw, especially the big yellow croaker. Mom's braised yellow fish is a must, the skin is thin and smooth, the meat is like a garlic clove, snow white and tender, the entrance is soft and dissolved, and the soup and condiments of onions, garlic, etc., are particularly flavorful. The leftover yellow fish, whether it is bibimbap with residual juice or the next yellow fish noodles, is a rare product.
However, what I covet the most is the slender fish belly in the belly of the fish, which is tender and smooth and beautiful. But this special object, which is my father's patent, does not allow me to touch it. When eating braised or souped yellow fish in a restaurant, it is strong to start first, and every time you think about it, it is always difficult to get your wish. After listening to my father talk about it, I learned that when the masters and masters were roasting yellow fish, they must first take off the fish belly, paste it next to the pot, and then cook it and send it to the mouth immediately. Obviously, there are similar hobbies in the mouth, such as no land and people, and it is difficult to satisfy the appetite. Now, the big yellow croaker has been caught indiscriminately, and it is simply delusional to want to eat that piece of fish belly, and I can only find another way to ask him for help in order to taste this good fish belly of jade, soup, fish white, and fish dart.
Later, the author went on a business trip to the east, and as soon as he arrived in Yilan, he ate ding bang belly, which was the favorite taste of local people. The so-called Ding Bang is the common name for sailfish in lanyang area. The beauty of this fish belly, that is, in a crisp word, quickly fried and eaten, is both crisp and fresh. In fact, the production period of the swordfish is in the winter (December to March of the following year), and when the north wind rises, the dart flag boats are out of the way, riding the wind and waves, chasing the big sailfish with the dorsal fin out of the water, which looks like a large flag waving in the wind, specializing in its flesh, belly and intestines.