Before the advent of "gutter oil", soy milk and fritters were the first choice for many people's breakfast. At that time, there was little oil and water in the stomach, and it was a very happy and luxurious thing to be able to eat fritters.
Fritters
When I was in high school, there was a separate half-room house on the south side of the school canteen, specializing in fried fritters, every morning after self-study, the first thing was to sprint to the canteen, so often wait for you to run out of breath, the window for selling fritters is already crowded and airtight. There are well-armed students who can climb over people's heads, hand over meal tickets, money tickets to buy fritters and then return safely, and there have also been classmates who have squeezed out the waistband of their pants for buying fritters, which also shows people's love for fritters from the side.
According to legend, the original name of the fritters was "fried juniper", but the common people hated the Southern Song Dynasty traitor Qin Juniper, so it was called. In the continuation volume of Zhang Xilin's "Trivia" in the Xianfeng Annual Magazine, there is a text that writes about fried ghosts: "Fried noodles are like cold utensils, and all the provinces in the north and south eat this snack, or call fruit, or call oil embryos, and Yu Province is also called hemp sugar, which is oil bun, that is, the fried ghost in the capital." Ghost word does not know what word to use, Changqingyan observes Zhenyun, should be used as a juniper character, that day Qin Juniper died, the people are angry and can not be released, because of the face of the shape of the fried and eaten, over time its shape gradually fell off, its sound gradually changed, so it was called fried ghost, the language is also similar. "At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Xu Ke's "Qing Barnyard Banknotes": "Fried juniper, up to a foot long, pounding the noodles to make it thin, with two strands twisted as one, such as rope, fried in oil." At its beginning, it was in the form of a portrait, with the upper second hand and the lower two feet, slightly like the X character, and the Song people were evil qin juniper's mistaken country, so the pictogram was also cursed. The book "The Legend of Hangzhou : Fried Juniper" also records: "Originally, fried juniper was two face-to-face people back to back. It takes a lot of work to make a fried juniper, and it is too much trouble. Later, it was gradually simplified and became what it is now. Ordinary people ate fried juniper in order to dispel their hatred. "The simplified approach is to fold the two pieces of dough up and down, use a short stick to press a ditch in the middle, then pinch the two ends to lengthen, and then fry in the pan. Until now, many places in the south have called fritters "fried junipers" and "fried ghosts".
Tianjin area called fritters as "stick mallet dumplings", Tianjin famous eating "pancake dumplings" inside is the sandwich of the stick mallet or dumplings, now write more "pancake fruit", this is not right. "Fruit" refers to the fruit of the plant, "Shuowen": "Fruit, wood fruit also." The elephant fruit is shaped on top of the wood. "Yi Shuo Gua": "For the fruit." Lu Deming explained: "Ying Shaoyun: Wood fruit, grass fruit." ...... Zhang Yanyun: There are nucleated fruits, and there are no seeds. "The Song Dynasty official government set up "four divisions and six bureaus" (referring to the account set division, kitchen division, tea and wine division, Taiwan pan division, fruit bureau, honey frying bureau, vegetable bureau, oil candle bureau, fragrant medicine bureau, platoon office), the fruit bureau is the head of the six bureaus, responsible for the preparation of new fruits, south Beijing fruits, etc., and later the fruit bureau evolved into a fruit shop collective name, "fruit" has also become a synonym for fruit, Huangxian dialect to the fruit called "fruit wood", to the fruit tree called "fruit tree", also from this development. "馃" refers to pastry foods, "Yu chapter food department": "馃, cake also." "Dumplings" is a general term for old-style dim sum, and Huangxian dialect is called "dumplings", such as: eat some dumplings to make up for the pads. And because walnut crisp is the cheapest and most common, sometimes it is said that the convention refers to walnut crisp, such as a guest at home, or boiling water to drink (poached eggs), or drinking from a bowl, which is a reason for referring to slices with dry food. Huangxian folk July 7 qiao bao, also called "qiao bao'er", is for children to eat as a snack, so it should be written "rao". In the old days, dim sum shops and pastry shops were also called dumplings, shiku bureaus (highlighting the fashionability of dim sum), nan yu bureau (selling southern snacks in the north), dumpling shops (there are also "fruits", the Japanese call Japanese dim sum "Washiko",
Hengxingmao mooncake advertisement
The advertisement on the mooncake trademark of Hengxingmao Pastry Shop in Huangxian County in the Republic of China is "Shishi-style Pin", and "菓" is a variant of "fruit".
A poinsettia advertisement
The advertisement imitation list of the Longkou Yipinxiang Food Factory in the Republic of China reads "homemade various sweet and fat sugar dumplings, seasonal dumplings, and canned food", and the use of the words "菓" and "馃" is clearly distinguished). "Dumplings" also refers to fried foods made of flour, Zhou Libo's "The Tempest": "Carrying a basket of sesame oil dumplings and selling them on the road." "Sesame oil dumplings" is the name of the northeast for fritters, not fried in sesame oil (sesame oil), but to describe its fragrance. Northeasterners also call it "big bunting".
"Dumplings" is a general term for fried foods, that is, in terms of Tianjin, dumplings include more than 30 varieties of long billets, stick mallet dumplings, dumplings, dumplings, dumplings, dumplings, buns, ring dumplings, egg dumplings, sugar peels, tiger claws, buns, forks, hedges, etc.
Long billets
The "long billet" is two noodles, the two ends are pinched, the middle is divided in an arc, and a large bundle of bamboo sticks or reed sticks is prepared for the seller, and the customer buys it and picks it up. Because it is fried with open legs, it is crispy and crispy. Later, in order to save trouble, the link in the middle of the support was removed, and the two noodles were pinched together and fried with legs, which looked thick and long like a mallet, so it was called "stick mallet dumplings", which is what we usually call "fritters", and "strips" also refer to its shape. And because fritters are more common, sometimes "dumplings" refer to fritters.
Rao
In the early days, pancake dumplings were mostly wrapped in "dumplings", which were utensils with holes to be used to trap objects, such as bamboo grates for steaming food. When making a grate, the noodles are extremely thin, and some small holes are poked to facilitate frying, which looks like a grate, hence its name. Because it is extremely thin and crisp, Beijingers call it "thin and crisp".
Egg dumplings
"Egg dumplings" are also called "egg cloth bags", beijingers called "fried pockets", and egg cakes are similar, the noodle blanks are fried to a fixed shape, and one side of the opening is filled with eggs and then re-fried in the frying pan. "Sugar peel" is a brown sugar oil noodle with brown sugar on one side of the dough, which is a favorite of children.
Ring dumplings
"Ring dumplings" are two noodle blanks put together into a buckle, and then fried.
Row forks
"Row forks" are flowers that Huangxian people fried in the New Year.
Many Beijingers themselves think that fritters are fried ghosts, which is not true. Mr. Liang Shiqiu wrote an article entitled "Burnt Cake Fritters": "I grew up in Beiping, and when I was a child, my breakfast was almost always a set of burnt cake fritters - no, called fried ghosts, not fritters. "Mr. Liang was born in Beijing and grew up in Beijing, and he is clear about the eating door of old Beijing, and knows that fried ghosts and fritters cannot be confused. Qi Rushan's "Beijing Native Dialect" "Fried Fruit" article: "Fruit, read like a ghost, the ancient sound of the north is also." Every morning, the burnt cakes and fried fruits sold in the alleys are also. Xu Shirong's "Beijing Native Dictionary" believes that "fried dumplings" means "oil dumplings" ("dumplings" are pronounced guǐ): "Similar to fritters, white noodles are made into long circles, two strands overlap, and fried until crisp." Usually eaten as an early snack, it is eaten with burnt bread. '馃' guǒ transliteration. Its "scorched circle" article: "One of the Beijing-style snacks, that is, fried dumplings and the like, is ring-shaped, the size of a bracelet, and is particularly crispy." Usually used for breakfast. Mr. Zhu Jiaxuan explained in the "Preface to the Old Gourmet Man's Pen": "Eating 'horseshoe roast cake' with 'fried fruit' is the most beautiful 'big pickled radish'." The fruit character pronunciation of 'fried fruit', which is the yuan dadu sound preserved in the northern song. The term 'jiaoquan' is a new Beijing dialect, which used to be called only 'fried fruit'. In summary, this kind of fried food should be written as "fried dumplings", "馃" pronunciation, "馃兒" continuous reading, and syndication reading like a ghost. There are many types of fried dumplings, according to the shape of the long ring, round ring, small ring, which should be Tianjin's ring dumplings. The small set of rings used to be eaten in horseshoe roast cakes, which was called "a set of burnt bread dumplings". To make horseshoe cakes, a rectangular brick hanging stove is used, underneath which is a coal fire, with holes in the top, and several horseshoe concave round impressions on the top of the stove. When baking the baked cake, the half-hair noodle cake that has been reconciled on the board is glued with some sesame seeds, and then brushed with a layer of oil and sugar water, pasted into the mold on the top of the stove, and after a while, a horseshoe-shaped baked cake is baked, the outside is charred and hollow, and it is just clipped into a small ring, which is crispy and soft to eat, and the aroma of the noodles is mixed together. There is a saying in old Beijing, "The east is a bunch, the west is a bunch, eat horseshoe baked cake and dumplings early", which is what it says.
Bean juice, charred rings and horseshoe cakes
The scorched circle that is often eaten now is also a kind of fried dumplings, and the old Beijingers call it "little oil ghost" because it is the smallest, such as the bracelet worn by a woman. There is also a kind of tar dumplings, the frying temperature is larger, the color of the scorching baking, crisp, when fried, the two ends are glued together, the shape is like a small boat, which should be like a long billet in Tianjin dumplings, the middle is open and fried, fried thoroughly. Lao She "Camel Xiangzi" Chapter 13: "Lao Cheng returned, carrying two large bowls of sweet porridge, and an unknown number of horseshoe cakes and small tar fried ghosts." "Little tar fried ghost" is one of the kinds of tar dumplings, and judging from its horseshoe baked cake, it is somewhat like a small set of rings. Fritters are the only name of a large number of foreigners entering Beijing after the founding of the People's Republic of China, and the old Beijingers call it "stick hammer dumplings", also called "bars", compared with fried dumplings, it looks silly and black.
Laohuangxian dialect calls fritters "máteng", many people write "Ma Teng", why are fritters called Ma Teng? What exactly is said in this, no one knows. Later, I came to see a food program, which said that the standard breakfast for Henan people is peppery soup and spicy hot. Hemp hot is also called oil bun head, similar to fritters and slightly different, there are single strands, there are double strands to twist a similar twist, there are double strands in the middle of the cut to dig out similar to the fried flowers, some hemp hot or even reunion like flowers, in short, hemp hot and fritters are very close, but not as slender as fritters, not as smooth as fritters, relatively thick and short, the fire is also larger, the outside is tender. Why is it called "hemp hot"? "Hemp" refers to some twists and twists to make a twist shape, but also refers to the crispy frying, and "hot" refers to the fact that it is a little hot just out of the pot. It can be said that the hot hemp is the pinduoduo version of fritters, and the people of Laohuang County call the fritters "hot" or have a basis. In The Huangxian dialect, "hot" gently rhymes, "ang" is pronounced as "eng", "place", "bookstore", "clothes" are all read in this way. Writing "Ma Teng" is the result of not knowing the law of phonological changes in Huangxian dialect.
In my impression, soy milk fritters belong to the people in the city, a bit petty bourgeois. On the rural market, it is a one-color noodle fish with tofu brain. Fritters are "chirping and squeaky" (Huangxian dialect means slim and well-proportioned), and the noodle fish are laid out like tortillas.
Noodle fish
The method of noodle fish is similar to the fritters, they are to put aside the good yeast with salt and alkali and noodles, and put them in a warm place to ferment, but the noodles of the fried fritters are harder, and generally put the alum, fried out crisp and crisp, straight a stick like a stick, if you do not add alum fried fritters will be soft collapse. The thinner the noodles of the fish, the better, sometimes so thin that they can hardly be lifted, so that the fried will be crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and the thick noodles will be fried out. Put the dough on the panel, divide it into several small portions (depending on the size of the noodle fish), take one of them, spread it by hand, use a knife to cut two knives on the dough sheet (this is cooked quickly, there are also not knives fried in the whole piece), pull up the dough blank with both hands, the middle part is first into the pot, let go after the basic molding, and fry until both sides are golden. Because the noodle fish is relatively thick, the temperature of the oil should not be too high, otherwise it is easy to appear uncooked outside the coke, but it can not be too low, the oil temperature is too low, which is not conducive to foaming, and the noodle blank will absorb too much oil. The fried noodle fish is soft and thin inside, unlike fritters, which have as many holes, are more elastic, and are more conducive to digestion for people with bad stomachs.
Huangxian people eat noodle fish is generally open brine, winter drink sheep soup with noodle fish is also very good (Huangxian people drink sheep soup with noodles there are four kinds, southeast mountain area is sheep soup with noodle fish, North Malaysia is sheep soup with fire, the old school to Xiaoluan sheep soup as a representative, with steamed dumplings, the current sheep soup restaurant mostly with small oil cakes as the main food). In the minds of the people of Laohuang County, if fritters are paired with tofu brain, noodle fish with soy milk will feel weird. Now people pay attention to health, know that the intake of aluminum is too much on the body is not good, so the fritters do not put alum, now often a pot of noodles can be fried fritters can also be fried noodles fish, but although it is the same basin of noodles, but very wonderful is that fried into fritters is fritters flavor, fried into noodle fish is noodle fish flavor. It seems that the shape of the food also has an impact on the taste, no wonder Old Master Kong was "not cut correctly and did not eat".
I always thought that noodle fish was unique to Huang County, and later found that there are similar foods in many places, but everyone calls them differently. Tianjin's dumpling cake, that is, Beijing's oil cake, is similar to the way noodles and fish are made and look. Tianjin's sugar skin, that is, Beijing's sugar oil cake, on the one hand added brown sugar oil noodles, one side did not add, fried out of the sugar side of the darker color, no sugar on the side of the light color, one side is fragrant, one side with the sweetness of brown sugar, different tastes in the mouth intertwined, this is an upgraded version of the noodle fish. Jinan also has noodle fish, but also in the middle of the two knives and then fried, they are called "fried stove grate", the same thing, the Huangxian people near the sea see the fish swimming in the oil, the inland Jinan people think of the iron grate under the stove. In the morning, a bowl of slightly spicy and salty sweet foam, accompanied by a fried oven grate, is a satisfying breakfast in Jinan.
Eight batches of dumplings
The top luxury version of the noodle fish, have to count the eight batches of dumplings in Liaocheng, the same size of the noodle billet, to spread a little rounder, scratch seven knives, fried out is eight shares, so called "eight batches of dumplings" (according to this name, noodle fish is counted as three batches of dumplings), the more the number of shares, the more oil, of course, it is also fried more thoroughly, more crisp.
There are also some places in the north that call "noodle fish", which refers to the shape of a lion or a fish made of dough or wood bumps, which is colored and colored after steaming, and the line is finished, which belongs to a kind of handicraft, which can be placed at home to see, and can also be given to relatives and friends.
Noodle fish
Huangxian folk also have this kind of noodle fish, generally in July seven to do qiaobao, by the way, a few noodle fish (this kind of noodle fish is much larger than qiaobao, but compared with the fish cake when making steamed cakes, much smaller and thinner), together in the pot, when stringing qiaobao, noodle fish are generally strung at the bottom of the ground, sometimes it is a string of noodle fish in the middle interval, just like a small thunderbolt inserted in a whip interval. When the New Year's fried skin stems and fried flowers, the leftover dumplings and noodle fish should be fried together in the pot and distributed to the children, and the noodles are sometimes mixed with saccharin, which is sweet to eat. In the past, the oil was expensive, usually not willing to use fried things, too expensive oil, generally concentrated in the waxing moon twenty-eight nine a day, fried noodle fish, fried knife fish mackerel, fried balls fish, fried vegetable balls, these are used for the meal, the remaining fried skin stem fried flowers belong to snacks, as well as with the fish, lions and so on can also be directly fried in the frying pan, Huangxian dialect is collectively known as "fried flowers fried fish", because it is thinner, it is also easy to fry through. Compared to the dried dough fish of July 7, the newly fried dough fish is more crispy and fluffy.
The impression is that the New Year is fried noodle fish, never heard of anyone fried fritters, may be "fish" harmonic "Yu" "jade", and "every year there is more" "golden jade full of halls" and other festive words are related, the New Year fried fish is probably also the reason.
Some of the pictures are quoted from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the original author