We also talked a lot about the eight major cuisines, and then talked about Jiangsu cuisine and Zhejiang cuisine, and today we mainly talk about the cooking techniques of Jiangsu cuisine. Jiangsu cuisine (referred to as Su cuisine). Su cuisine consists of Jinling cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Suxi cuisine and Xuhai cuisine. Its taste is fresh and fresh, slightly sweet in salty, xi shang wuxin, pay attention to the original taste, and enjoy a high reputation at home and abroad.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="4" > cooking techniques for Jiangsu cuisine</h1>
Su cuisine is good at stewing, stewing, steaming, stir-frying, pay attention to the soup, keep the original juice, the flavor is fresh, thick but not greasy, light but not thin, crisp and loose without losing its shape, smooth and crisp without losing its taste.
Nanjing cuisine tastes and mellow, exquisite and delicate; Yangzhou cuisine is light and palatable, and the knife work is fine; Suzhou cuisine is sweetened and elegant. The style of Jiangsu cuisine is fresh and elegant, which is reflected in the fine knife work and changeable knife techniques. Whether it is a craft cold dish, a hot dish, or a melon and fruit carving or deboning, or a carving and cut through, it shows superb knife craftsmanship.
Su cuisine is based on Huaiyang cuisine. Huaiyang is located in central Suzhou, east to Haiqitong Taiyanfu, west to Jinling Liuhe, south and Jingkou Jintan, north to Lianghuai. Huaiyang cuisine is characterized by rigorous selection of ingredients, pay attention to knife and fire, emphasize the original taste, highlight the main ingredients, light and elegant color, novel shape, moderate salt and sweet, peaceful taste, so the adaptation surface is wider. In terms of cooking techniques, the method of stewing, stewing, simmering and simmering is mostly used. Among them, Nanjing cuisine is famous for cooking duck dishes, and Zhen and Yang cuisine are known for cooking chicken dishes and rivers; Its finess are won by fermented pastries, blanched pastries and puff pastry.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="43" > knife worker for Su Cai</h1>
In fact, any local dish will attach great importance to ingredients, knife work, heat and seasoning, but in contrast, Huaiyang Cuisine's emphasis on knife work is almost harsh. Huaiyang cuisine's emphasis on knife work also makes its one-dish production contain many processes, which can make a lot of not-so-expensive ingredients feel very advanced, but not exaggerated.
The famous Wensi tofu soup is the ultimate knife workmanship, and its main ingredient is just a piece of tofu. The traditional Pactera tofu uses tender tofu, and after the emergence of lactone tofu in the 1980s, it switched to lactone tofu. Although the lactone tofu has a delicate texture, it is also more tough and not easy to break. Therefore, the chefs of Huaiyang cuisine can play the knife work to the fullest, and a box of lactone tofu can be as high as 10,000 tofu shreds as thick as hair.
To make Pactus tofu, first divide the lactone tofu into two pieces, then cut the tofu into slices with a jumping knife, and then cut the tofu jumping knife into strips in a different direction. Then, bring the ingredients and broth to a boil, then slowly push the thinly sliced tofu into the pot and use a spoon to push the shredded tofu in one direction.
Another dish that can especially reflect the Huaiyang kitchen knife worker is boiled dry silk, and its main ingredient is also a piece of soy product - Huaiyang Fanggan. Compared with other dried tofu, Huaiyang Fanggan is characterized by thick, large, very tight, except for Yangzhou, there is no other place to produce this dried bean. Generally speaking, the production of large boiled dry silk, a 2 cm thick square dry, to be sliced into 20 pieces to be qualified, and then jump knife cut into filaments.
Mr. Tang Lusun, a eater, once recalled: dry silk can be boiled or boiled, and the selection of ingredients for boiling dry silk, such as chicken shredded, eel, shrimp, must be selected for the best goods, and the "head" of the great white dried silk is simply abandoned, "which shows how those famous tea houses attach importance to dry silk at all costs!" ”
Whether it is Wensi tofu or large boiled dried silk, it is the "visible knife work" in Huaiyang cuisine, in fact, there is also an "invisible knife work" in Huaiyang cuisine. Typical is the lion's head. Instead of grinding pork into puree or mincing meat, lion's head is cut into pomegranate-like sizes, and lean meat is paired in a ratio of 3:7 or 4:6. Lean meat particles are less than fat meat particles, so after the meat particles are stirred evenly, each lean meat particle is surrounded by fat meat particles, this structure is unattainable by the meat paste, and it also makes the taste of the lion's head more tender.
The pinnacle of "Invisible Knife Worker" is three sets of ducks.
The three sets of ducks are the removal of the bones of the pigeons, domestic ducks and wild ducks using the whole bird deboning technique, while maintaining the shape of the whole bird. Three kinds of poultry are then set up layer by layer, and after blanching water, simmer over low heat to make them crispy. Because of the cumbersome production, nowadays Huaiyang restaurants generally have to be booked to eat.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="44" > the characteristics of Su cuisine</h1>
The materials are mainly fresh water, the knife work is fine, pay attention to the fire, good at candles, smoke, extinguishing, glutinous; The pursuit of the original taste, fresh and harmonious, salty sweet and mellow. The style of the dishes is elegant, the shape is beautiful, crisp and boneless without losing its shape, smooth and tender and crisp and show its flavor.
The representative dishes of Jiangsu cuisine are "soft pocket long fish", "gun tiger tail", "crystal hoof", "braised big fish head", "steamed anchovy", "wild duck vegetable rice", "silver sprout chicken shredded", "chicken soup boiled with a thousand silks", "stewed crab powder lion head", "double skin knife fish" and so on.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="45" > famous Su dish</h1>
Stewed crab powder lion's head
Stewed crab powder lion's head is one of the famous dishes in Yangzhou. Legend has been said to be nearly a thousand years old. The so-called "lion's head" is, in Yangzhou dialect, is big meat. If you use the Beijing dialect, it is a large meatball. Because after the large meat is cooked and matured, the surface layer of fatty minced meat has been largely dissolved or semi-dissolved, while the lean minced meat is relatively convex, and the trance gives people a rough feeling. Therefore, people with a sense of humor call it "lion's head".
Stewed crab powder lion head is a famous dish in Huaiyang, the lion's head is fat and tender, the crab powder is fragrant, the green vegetables are crisp and clear, the fragrance is full of flavor after eating, and the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, which can not be forgotten for a long time.
Large boiled dried shreds
Big boiled dried silk, also known as chicken juice boiled dried silk, is a refreshing, but also nutritious dish, the beauty of its flavor, has always been pushed as a table of delicious food, is the Huaiyang cuisine in the housekeeper dish. The raw materials are mainly Huaiyang Fang dry, the knife work requirements are extremely fine, the fresh flavor of a variety of condiments is cooked, compounded into dried tofu silk, eat refreshing and appetizing, exceptionally precious, not tired of food. This dish is beautiful in color, the dry silk is fresh and tender, and the soup is fresh and mellow.
Crystal hooves
Crystal hoof, also known as crystal dish meat, is a famous dish in Zhenjiang, Jiangsu Province, which has a history of more than 300 years. The crystal hooves of Zhenjiang's "Yanchun Restaurant" are even more worthy of the name. When the crystal hoof is served, it can be cut according to different meat textures, such as "glasses dish", "jade belt hook dish", "lantern stick dish", "triangle dish" and so on. After the crystal dish is cooked, the meat is red and white, smooth and crystalline, and the brine is transparent, just like crystal, so it is called "crystal". When eaten, it has the characteristics of lean meat crisp, fat meat is not greasy, crisp and tender, etc., accompanied by ginger shredded and Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, it is a unique flavor. There is a poem praising: "The scenery is infinite, and I love Jingkou meat and roast even more, not greasy and slightly crispy, and the red and tender frozen crystal dishes." ”
Squirrel mandarin fish
"Squirrel mandarin fish" is a traditional dish in the Suzhou area, and it has always been listed as a top dish at banquets throughout Jiangnan. Mandarin fish has long been used in various places, generally steamed or braised, and the mandarin fish dish shaped like a squirrel is first of all in the Suzhou area.
Legend has it that when the Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty went down to Jiangnan, he once served a meal at the Suzhou Songhelou Restaurant, the chef used carp out of the bone, carved a pattern on the fish meat, added seasoning and slightly marinated, dragged on the egg yolk paste, into the hot oil pot tender and fried to mature, poured with boiling hot sweet and sour marinade, shaped like a mouse, crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, sweet and sour. The Qianlong Emperor was very satisfied after eating. Later, the Suzhou government rumored that Qianlong ate fish in the Songhe Tower, and this dish became famous in Suzhou. Subsequently, the operator made mandarin fish, so it was called "squirrel mandarin fish", and soon this dish spread throughout Jiangnan. This dish has a history of more than 200 years since its creation, and now it has become famous at home and abroad, becoming one of the most famous dishes in China.
Liangxi brittle eel
Liangxi crisp eel, also known as Wuxi brittle eel. It is a unique traditional dish in Jiangsu eel cuisine, which is well-known at home and abroad. The Liangxi crisp eel was first created during the Qing Dynasty and was handed down by an oil stall owner surnamed Zhu in Huishan Zhijie. Made of eel fried twice, the appearance of the sauce is brown, dark shiny, the taste is sweet and with a belt, crunchy and delicious, even if it is stored for a few days, it will not be soft. On the palate it is crunchy and crunchy.
Crisp eel, also known as sweet eel, is said to have originated in the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom period, and in the late Qing Dynasty and early Min, crisp eel has been used as a feast dish. After 1920, Zhu Bingxin, the owner of the "Erquan Garden" shop in Huishan, carefully studied the family heirloom crisp eel making method, making it more crisp, delicious, quite distinctive, and famous far and wide, because Zhu Bingxin was accustomed to wearing large glasses to cook, so people also called this dish "big glasses crisp eel".
Double-skinned knifefish
Double-skinned knife fish is a typical Huaiyang dish, it has no bones and no spines, the flesh is extremely tender, its taste is delicious, the Qing Dynasty poet Lin Lanyi in the "Three Hundred Yin" in the cloud: "Pi Li bee mang meat is even, Seiko search in the whole body." It refers to the process of processing double-skinned knife fish, so this dish is also called "knife fish". This knifefish maintains its original shape, the meta bone spines, the meat is extremely tender, and its taste is delicious. Double-skinned knife fish, squirrel mandarin fish, steamed anchovies and called Gangnam Sanwei.
Dismantle the braised silver carp head
"Braised silver carp head" is a traditional dish in Zhenjiang and Yangzhou areas. Legend has it that at the end of the Qing Dynasty, a rich man invited guests, bought more than ten kilograms of silver carp, and asked the chef to cook the fish meat pieces on the table and cook the fish heads for the migrant workers to eat. The chef chops the fish head in two pieces and puts it in a pot of water and cooks it until it is cut off, removes the fish bones, and adds fresh soup to cook a dish. After eating it, the migrant workers felt that the fish was tender and tender, and the soup tasted extremely delicious, and they praised the chef's superb craftsmanship. Later, the chef improved the selection of ingredients and preparation methods, and listed the dish "Boiled Silver Carp Head" in the shop. After tasting it, customers think that this dish is delicious and unusual. The dish became famous in Jiangsu and became the most famous dish in the region. The head of the braised silver carp is mainly made of silver carp head, and the cooking is mainly stewed vegetables, and the taste is salty and umami. Taste: The skin is sticky and smooth, the fish is fat and tender, the soup is thick, the taste is delicious, and the nutrition is rich, which is a winter delicacy.
Steamed anchovies
Steamed anchovy, silvery body, tender and delicious, refreshing but not greasy. When eating, if you dip it with Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar and ginger minced, it is even more flavorful. This dish is one of the three flavors of Gangnam.
"Steamed anchovy" is an ancient dish, according to relevant records, a moving story of the Eastern Han Dynasty. After Liu Xiu established the Eastern Han Dynasty, he mobilized Yan Guang to join the dynasty to assist. Yan Guangshu said that he lived a leisurely and self-reliant life in seclusion, and he relished the delicious taste of fresh anchovies steamed and wine when he fished. Speaking of Liu Xiu, he did not feel that his mouth was full of life, and he even said yes. Yan Guang finally refused to give up the delicious anchovy and politely refused to become an official again.
Wild duck rice
Belongs to the famous cuisine of Jiangsu, the taste characteristics: the rice grain is tooth yellow, supplemented by a variety of raw materials cooked together, its taste is complementary, the mouth is oily, the taste is delicious, and the meal is excellent. Wild duck has a special flavor, plucking the wild duck to remove the impurities, washing and cutting it into pieces, or steaming, or stewing, or brine, or stir-frying, all of which are delicious. "Wild duck rice" is even more unique, full of fragrance, full of wild food, and is not known to ordinary people. Wild duck rice is emerald green in color, fat but not greasy, and its taste is unusually delicious.