Pharaoh
Pharaoh
As one of the popular men's robes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the Taoist robe was withdrawn from people's daily life due to the policy of changing clothes during the Qing Dynasty, and was only continued in opera costumes, Taoist robes and traditional costumes of the Korean Peninsula.
However, due to the differences of time and region, the shape and structure of these garments have undergone great changes.
What are the similarities and differences between the Taoist robe of the Ming Dynasty and other dynasties, and why did the requirements and specifications of the Taoist robe reach an unprecedented height in the Ming Dynasty?
1. The origin and development of the robe
(1) The origin of the robe
The Taoist robe, also known as pleats and sea green, was originally the clothing of Taoist interpretation. In the "History of Zen Zhenyi" by the Taoist people of Qingxi, there is a description of the costumes worn by Taoist priests when they go out:
He wore a scarf on his head and a halochrome silk robe. Or wear a black-threaded robe with a scarf on his head. ”
Regarding the shape and structure of Taoist robes, there are many depictions in the murals of Yongle Palace in the Yuan Dynasty.
In the painting, Lu Dongbin wears a Huayang scarf on his head, an ordinary Taoist robe, with a left collar and black edges on the sleeves, hem and neckline, and a draped silk waist.
After the Yuan Dynasty unified the world, due to the strong support of the Yuan royal family, Taoist activities increased, so that the costumes of Taoist priests frequently appeared in the public eye.
The Taoist robes worn outside of it were favored by the scholars and doctors because of their loose body and wide sleeves, which could reflect the elegant style of the literati.
Before the Yuan Dynasty, the Taoist robe followed the characteristics of Taoist clothing "not with the world" and "not from the world", and the shape and structure remained basically unchanged.
After the Yuan Dynasty, the Taoist robe became more and more secular, and was used as a men's idle clothing.
Black edges on the neckline, sleeves and hem are removed.
In the mid-to-late Ming Dynasty, the Taoist robe evolved into one of the most common robes for men, and was worn by all the emperor's relatives, serving officials, and the scholarly class.
For example, the Ming Dynasty scholar Fan Lian recorded in volume 2 of the "Yunjian Catalogue": "Eighteen bachelors are clothed...... Long and Wan, all use Taoist robes, and the ancients all use Yangming clothes, because their hearts are different, not good ancient...... Those who are young in Confucian childhood must wear light red robes.
Shanghai students, in winter must wear a velvet robe, and in the summer, they must use a scarf and a green umbrella. ”
At the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, Ye Mengzhu described in volume 8 of the "Reading the World": "His civilian clothes, from the official to the bureaucracy, as for the students." They all wear square scarves and wear various colors of silk silk robes. In the tomb of Zhu Yijun, 8 pieces of large-sleeved Taoist robes with collared silk noodles were unearthed.
It can be seen that during the Longqing and Wanli periods, the Taoist robe was popular as men's casual clothes for a while (see Figure 1).
After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, in order to consolidate its dominant position, the Qing government promulgated the policy of "shaving hair and making it easy to wear", forcing the Han people to change their Manchurian clothes and comb their Manchurian hairstyles.
Today, the robe can only be seen in opera costumes, religious costumes, and traditional costumes of the Korean Peninsula.
In the Qing Dynasty opera costumes, the Taoist robe developed into a "male pleat", which is a common robe in the opera costumes, which can be worn by civil and military, young and old, noble and low, according to the different identities and personalities of the characters, their colors, softness, and fabric textures are different.
During the Ming Dynasty, the Korean Peninsula, as a vassal state of China, was deeply influenced by Chinese clothing culture, and its clothing was basically similar to the Ming Dynasty clothing, among which the men's traditional clothing Korean Taoist robe was gradually evolved on the basis of the Ming Dynasty Taoist robe.
The placket is narrower, the waist is higher, and the lacing position is gradually shifted from the right side to the center, forming a Korean robe with Korean characteristics (see Figure 2).
Second, the shape and structure of the Taoist robe of the Ming Dynasty
By counting the data of 11 Taoist robes unearthed in various places and the old collection of Confucius, the shape of the Taoist robes and the structure of the four parts of the collar, sleeve, body and hem were sorted out, and the shape characteristics of the Taoist robes (see Table 1) and specific measurement data (see Table 2) were obtained.
(1) The shape of the robe
As can be seen from Table 1 and Table 2, as one of the men's robes, the robe belongs to the upper and lower cutting system, with an ankle-length length and a length of 124~143cm, which can be worn directly as an outerwear or used as a shirt.
Most of the robes are shaped like a collar with a white collar inlaid with a collar that can be removed and replaced.
The right side of the placket, there is a pair of ties fixed in the clothes, and there are two pairs of ties fixed on the right side of the chest, and the belt can be tied with a tassel. There are two types of sleeves, large and small, and the cuffs need to be tucked in. The left and right sides of the robe are slit to the armpits.
The front placket (large and small) is connected to an inner hem on both sides, and the inner hem is pleated and fixed on the inside of the waist of the back placket to cover the slits on both sides.
The waist and hem are A-shaped, but depending on the identity of the wearer, the shape of each style will vary slightly. As recorded in the "Chronicles of the Interior": "(Ministers) Taoist robes, such as the system of Taoist robes in the outer court, but the ears of the son are collared." ”
It can be seen that the Taoist robe worn by the ministers has increased the number of ears compared with the ministers.
(2) The structure of the robe
1. Collar structure
The collar is an important part of the men's robe in the Ming Dynasty, and its structure is mainly based on the collar and the collar. According to the different intersection of the two plackets, the collar can be divided into two types: the left and right sides of the placket are obliquely downward, called the oblique collar.
The left side of the placket is vertical, and the right side is obliquely downward. In addition to this, there are also collar types such as round neck, oblique collar, straight collar, and closed collar. The collar type of the robe is a collar, and its outer collar structure is unified, and the collar structure is divided into three types, as shown in Figure 3.
The inner collar is diagonally to the lower right, sewn with the left collar, and a piece of the same width as the collar and the length and hem of the collar is spliced at the left placket under the collar.
Straight down the broken jacket, the collar is sewn vertically on the jacket, overlapping with the jacket, wrapping the jacket.
Diagonally cut off, the collar is stitched together with the collar, not overlapping, and is located above the collar, and the collar type of robe is suitable for all classes.
There is a collar wrap on the outside of the collar, and the collar is generally made of white fabric, with a width of 3.0~13.5cm, narrower than the collar width, and detachable, which can not only avoid friction between the neckline and the neck, but also facilitate the cleaning and washing of the collar.
2. Sleeve structure
The sleeve structure of the robe is divided into two types: small sleeves and large sleeves, and both are folded, as shown in Figure 4.
The two sleeves of the small sleeve robe are 230~240cm long, the sleeve width is 35~40cm, and the cuffs are wider. This sleeve-shaped robe was mainly popular in the middle of the Ming Dynasty from Jiajing to Wanli.
Its cuffs are tucked in, and the sleeves are basically straight sleeves, and there is a curvature near the cuffs, because its shape is similar to that of the pipa, so it is called the pipa sleeve robe.
The silk robe with peony pattern unearthed from the tomb of Feng Ji Circle in Ningxia and the silk cotton robe with flowing water pattern unearthed from the Ming tomb in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province are typical small-sleeved robes.
The two sleeves of the large-sleeved robe are 232~253cm long and 54~70cm wide, which is mainly popular in the Chongzhen period of the Apocalypse. Its armpits are deep, the cuffs are wide, usually closed down at 1/3 of the place, to avoid exposing the clothes inside, and the cuffs are 18~25cm wide.
In the old collection of Confucius, the dark striped white Luo robes and the blue dark gauze robes are all large-sleeved robes.
3. Body structure
The placket structure of the robe is the right placket, the left placket has a set of straps tied on the left chest side, and the right placket has two sets of straps tied on the right chest side, and the two sets of straps can not only play a role in reinforcing the card, but also can be used to tie the tassel.
The short lacing width is 0.8~1.0cm and the length is 24~30cm, and the long tie width is 0.8~5.0cm and the length is 70~75cm.
Since the width of the cloth in the Ming Dynasty was limited to 64cm, there was a stitch at the center line of the front and back pieces of the robe. As can be seen from Table 2, the width of the body gradually increases from the waist to the hem, and the waist width is usually 55~62cm, and the hem width is 114~134cm.
4. Hem structure
The hem structure is an important basis for distinguishing whether it is a robe or not. It is recorded in the "Chronicles of the Middle": "The straight body is the same as the Taoist robe, but it is placed outside." ”
From this, it can be seen that the basic shape of the robe is the same as that of the straight body, the difference is that the straight body is placed outside, and the robe is placed inside.
The left and right sides of the robe are slit to the armpits, and there are two seams on the left and right sides when viewed from the front of the robe. According to the different ways of cutting and sewing the hem, it can be divided into three categories: ordinary type, omitted type and patch type, as shown in Figure 5.
(1) Normal type
There are two obvious seams on each side of the front of the normal hem robe, and the production steps are few, and the sewing method is simple, as shown in Figure 5(a).
Splice a piece of trapezoidal fabric on both sides of the front piece of clothing, first make two pleats of the same width inside the piece of clothing A to make it triangular, and then sew the piece of B clothing with the piece of clothing A, and fold the part of the piece of B clothing back to the inside of the piece of clothing after stitching for fixing.
This kind of pendulum type mostly appears on small-sleeved robes, such as silk robes with entwined branches and peony patterns, and silk cotton robes with flowing clouds and flowing water.
(2) Abbreviation
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, large-sleeved robes began to become popular, and Taoist robes were no exception.
The existing Ming Dynasty large-sleeved Taoist robe has a sleeve width of 60~70cm, and it is recorded in the "Zhizhongzhi": "However, when the rebellion against the sage, its sleeves are as big as two feet seven or eight inches (about 90cm), which is ridiculous." ”
The wide sleeves make the normal hem no longer suitable, and the two sides of the front piece are turned into two smaller trapezoidal fabrics, and the two wide dead pleats become a very shallow loose pleat and a seam.
Figure 5(b) shows the details. When sewing, first make a live pleat on the C clothing piece, and then splice the C clothing piece with D and E clothing pieces in turn, and fold it to the inside of the back clothing piece after stitching, which greatly avoids the waste of fabric.
The dark-striped white robe and the blue dark-flowered gauze robe in the old collection of Confucius are of this type.
(3) Patching type
Compared with the first two pendulum types, the production process is more cumbersome, and it is necessary to patch 4 pieces of fabric of different sizes on the side of the hem, as shown in Figure 5(c).
When sewing, first F, G, H, I pieces are spliced in turn, in order to avoid the conflict between the body and the width of the sleeve, a small piece of triangular fabric J is spliced under the armpit.
After completion, make a pleat on the F clothing piece, and then fold twice at the seam of the F, G clothing piece and G, H clothing piece, and fold it back to the back clothing piece to fix it after completion.
3. Restoration of the structure of the Taoist robe in the Ming Dynasty
(1) Selection of the object of robe restoration
1. Criteria for selecting restoration objects
(1) The selected restoration object must be typical
As a popular men's common dress in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the Taoist robe was worn by a wide range of people, not only literati and doctors, but even emperors.
There are many styles and structures of Taoist robes, and the selected restoration objects must have typical Taoist robe shape characteristics, which can reflect the clothing culture of this period.
Through the statistics and analysis of the collar splicing method, cuff width, length of two sleeves, hem structure and the overall length of the robe, the main structural characteristics of the robe in the Ming Dynasty are interpreted.
(2) The structural restoration study should be feasible
According to the different types of recovered samples, they can be divided into two categories: referring to the existing physical objects and using the physical objects as samples for restoration.
There is no physical reference, but there are clear images, which are used as samples for restoration. Compared with the latter, the former is more accurate. Depending on the content of the restoration, it can be divided into restoration in terms of structure, color, material, pattern, and shape.
In this paper, the physical object is used as a sample to restore the structure of the robe, which is feasible.
2. Determine the object of restoration
The styles of the unearthed robes and 11 robes in the old collection of Confucius were comprehensively analyzed, and the blue dark gauze robe numbered SDKF036 in the old collection of Confucius (now stored in the Shandong Museum) was selected for restoration.
The robe is well-preserved, the structure is clear, the style is a classic large-sleeved robe, and its neckline splicing, the width of the cuffs, and the structure of the hem all have the characteristics of the typical Ming Dynasty robe, so the robe was selected as the object of restoration for research.
The style and planar effect of the robe were obtained through the collection of museum materials (see Table 3) to ensure the accuracy and feasibility of structural restoration.
(2) Restoration of the structure of the robe
1. Restore the target style
Figure 6 shows the style of the restored object. Its outer collar is a cross-collar, the inner collar is a straight collar, and the outer collar is inlaid with white guards. The placket is the right side of the placket.
The sleeve shape is large sleeve with cuff cuffs. The front and back pieces of the body have a middle seam and are in an A-line shape. The slit is made in the form of a left and right side slit to the armpit. The hem is spliced with fabric on both sides of the front placket and fixed to the middle of the back piece, which is an omitted dark pendulum.
The tie method is fixed with two sets of ties on the left placket and a set of ties on the right placket. The cutting method is up and down. The fabric is mainly gauze, supplemented by cotton cloth.
2. Restore the size of the object
Measurement through data search and consultation with Shandong Museum, to obtain the physical tile measurement size, as shown in Figure 7.
The length of the body is 130 cm from the middle of the collar to the most protruding part of the hem.
The neckline width is the distance between the neckline and the left and right sides of the seam of the body and is 26cm.
The collar width is the vertical distance from the collar opening to the seam between the collar and the body of the collar, which is 13cm.
The total length of the two sleeves is the distance from the top end of the left cuff to the top end of the right cuff, which is 240cm.
The length of the sleeve is the distance from the seam of the sleeve to the cuff and is 66.4cm.
The length of the sleeve seam is 64 cm from the top and bottom of the same cuff as the body.
The width of the cuff is the distance between the ends of the sleeve after it is flattened, which is 70cm.
The hem width is the distance between the ends of the tiled hem and is 122cm.
The length of the side of the hem is 85 cm from the junction between the sleeves and the body of the robe and the hem after the robe is flattened.
The waist width is the distance between the left and right armpits, which is 60 cm.
The I1 short lacing has a length of 24cm and a width of 0.9cm. The length of the long tie is 73cm, and the width is 0.9cm on one side and 4.8cm on the other.
3. Draw the layout of the restored work
Draw a layout diagram based on the data of the restored object, as shown in Figure 8.
4. Restoration works and restoration objects
A 1:2 structural restoration of the blue dark gauze robe was compared, and the restoration as shown in Figure 9 was obtained. Lay the restored work flat on the table, observe the overall effect, and compare the restored work with the restored object from the front and back, cuffs, neckline, and hem details.
From the perspective of the tiling effect, the restored work is consistent with the overall shape of the restored object, which is a large placket and right road robe, with a collar inlaid with a collar, long and wide sleeves, cuffs and two seams on the left and right sides when viewed from the front, and a dark pendulum inside.
Due to the lack of physical renderings of the restored objects, it is impossible to carefully observe the wearing effect, so the wearing effect of the Taoist robe in the Ming Dynasty figure painting is compared with the effect of the restored work, as shown in Figure 10.
From the perspective of wearing effect, due to the difference in fabrics and the difference between the human body and the human platform, there is a slight difference between the wearing effect of the human platform and the wearing effect of the characters in the restored works, but the overall effect is similar.
From the overall structure, the two are basically the same, with a white collar on the neck, which fits the neck and chest.
The waist of the bodice is narrow, and the hem is pleated to form a specific amount of expansion, making it easy for the human body to walk.
The large sleeves are tucked in, and a certain amount of accumulation will form at the elbows when worn.
The dark swing on both sides can cover the slit to avoid the leakage of the inner pants and ensure the dignified feeling of the clothing.
epilogue
Through the statistical analysis of 11 pieces of Taoist robes in the Ming Dynasty unearthed from the tombs and the old collection of the Confucian Mansion, it is concluded that the Taoist robe is a kind of men's robe popular in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, which comes from the outer clothing worn by Taoist priests.
The shape of the robe is cut up and down, with a large placket on the right side, an ankle-length shirt, and a wide A-line shape at the waist and hem.
The main structure of the robe can be divided into four parts: collar, sleeves, body, and hem. The collar structure is mainly divided into three types: straight down broken collar, oblique lower broken collar and continuation, and the outer layer is inlaid with collar guards.
The sleeve structure is mainly divided into two types: large sleeves and small sleeves, and the cuffs are closed and need to be connected. The body structure is mainly divided into two types: placket and middle seam, and there are 3 groups of lace-ups on the placket, with middle seams at the front and back.
There are three main types of hem structures: ordinary, omitted, and patched. According to the size data of the restored object, the paper pattern of the robe is drawn, and the structure is restored in combination with the cutting method of traditional clothing.
Through empirical analysis, it is found that the shape and structure of the restored works are basically the same as those of the restored objects, and the wearing effect is similar to that of the Taoist robes in the Ming Dynasty figure paintings.
As a popular men's robe in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the combing of its shape and structure and the restoration of the structure are conducive to the inheritance of traditional clothing culture, and have certain academic value and historical significance.