A radiant girl on the moon jumping field | The southeastern dialect Yi costumes

This article was written by Wanx Lanfgar yif

"As the saying goes, 'Yi people can sing if they can speak, and they can dance when they can walk', perhaps only when they see the radiant girl on the moon jumping field, and the young man who plays and sings melodious and tactful ancient songs, can they understand the true meaning of this sentence"

Previous"The gorgeous clothes of "Ashima"| The clothing of the Yi nationality in the southeast dialect area of the southeast of Kunming will introduce the clothing of the Sani, Samei, Samo and other branches in the southeast dialect area around Kunming, and this article will continue to follow the introduction of the regional plus branch, and introduce the clothing of the Yi tribe such as Axi, Azhe, Azha and Awu mainly distributed in the north of the Nanpan River in Honghe Prefecture, and the specific distribution range roughly includes Maitreya in Honghe Prefecture, Yanshan, Malipo, Guangnan, Xichou and other places in Wenshan Prefecture.

Maitreya Ashi

The Maitreya and Luxi Yi branches north of the Nanpan River are dominated by the eastern dialect and the southeastern dialect, while the southern dialect and the southeastern dialect are dominated by the Pula and Muji dialects in the southeast, which are very different.

The Axi people are undoubtedly one of the most famous Yi ethnic branches in Honghe Prefecture, in addition to Maitreya and Luxi in Honghe Prefecture, the neighboring stone forests and other places are also distributed, the two major intangible cultural heritages "Axian Ji" and "Axian Jumping Moon" make the Axian people famous, and the rapid economic development of Maitreya City in order to enhance the cultural strength, the Axian people live in Keyi Village is developed into a national cultural tourism town, so that more people can feel the cultural charm of the Maitreya Axian people.

(A fine girl and a guy in the moon jumping field)

The costumes of the Axi people are relatively simple in the various branches of the Yi nationality, the Axi women's blouse is a long coat with a short front and a long back, and there are embroidery patterns on the neckline and chest; the linen cloth girdle is the characteristic ornament of the Axi people, with white linen cloth as the base, printed with black vertical line decoration, and the two triangular ornaments on the waist are also decorated with flower embroidery; the small shoulder bag is a concentrated display of the Axi embroidery, the front and strap of the bag are hand-picked embroidery, and the bottom is decorated with colored thread tassels.

The headdress is divided into new and old styles, the new hat has a large number of flowers, silver bubbles, beads, plastic sequins for decoration, there is a coin in front of the forehead, decorated with cloth tassels; the old model is a long black cloth strip, there are pick flower embroidery patterns at both ends, the traditional headdress is wrapped around the head with cloth strips, flowers, coins and other ornaments are embellished on the cloth strips, and middle-aged and elderly women wear a turban inlaid with lace every day.

(Maitreya Ashi women's costume)

(A thin woman wearing an old headdress)

(A fine woman's old embroidered head wrap and new headdress)

(The new headwear eliminates the need to wrap the head by hand, and is replaced with a black cloth hat ring, which is also more and more ornate than the traditional headwear)

(In addition to embroidered satchels, Ah Xi people also carry hemp satchels, which are generally used by the elderly)

(A thin twine shoulder bag and embroidery shoulder bag)

Compared with women, the traditional men's costume is a white linen gown, wrapped in black cloth and headed, which is generally only worn by Bimo in the clan when doing things;

(Asibmo in traditional men's clothes)

(Modern Men's and Women's Clothing)

Maitreya Azhe

Maitreya is the county-level unit with the largest number of Yi branches in Honghe Prefecture, and there are two famous Yi creation epics in one county, namely "A Xi Xianji" by the Ashi people and "Aizuo Aisha" by the Azhe people. The Azhe people are a southeastern dialect in addition to the Sani people, another branch of the Yi nationality that has Yi classics handed down, mainly distributed in several villages on the banks of the Nanpan River in Maitreya City and Kaiyuan City. In addition to the unique Yi and classic creation myths, the Azhe people are also very exquisite and distinctive, Maitreya's Azhe people mainly have two types of clothing, the first is to introduce the Azhe costumes represented by the inspection division town and Wushan Township, which is also the most common kind of Azhe clothing.

(Descendants of Aizo and Aisha - Yi Azhe)

The costume of the Acha people consists of three parts: a headdress, a blouse, a waistband, and trousers, which are decorated with intricate embroidery patterns except for trousers. Ah Zhe embroidery is mainly composed of four embroidery methods, one is the collar, cuffs, waist head, turban on the twisted embroidery pattern, very three-dimensional; the second is to pick flowers, in the cuffs, waist and headscarf have a small pick flower pattern, not very eye-catching; the third is flat embroidery, mainly in the center of the turban; the fourth is the patch embroidery, mainly in the center of the waist, with pink, white thin wire rope to outline the pattern; the most eye-catching is the embellishment of the small silver bubble, A Zhe clothing to blue and black as the main color, in the eyebrows, headscarf, placket, The girdle is decorated with small but dense silver bubbles, like stars in the night sky, very shiny.

(Exquisite Maitreya Azhe women's clothing)

(Ah Zhe dresses men and women, the silver ornaments on women's dresses are more abundant, and in addition to silver bubbles, the eyebrows are also decorated with multiple burnt blue flowers)

(Azhe women wrap their heads with flower towels every day)

The clothing of the Azhe people in Maitreya Jiangbian Township is another style: the women's clothing of the Azhe people in Jiangbian Township is relatively simple, there is not much embroidery on the clothes and waist, only decorated with zigzag patches and lace, the waist is generally tied very high, close to the neckline, the eyebrows are much wider than those of the inspection department and other places, the silver bubbles are inlaid into zigzags, the eyebrows are tied with embroidered patterns, the ends are decorated with colored woolen harnesses, and the headdresses are fixed with black woolen threads; , some use coins as buttons.

(Kawabe Azheto women's clothing)

(Kawabe Azheto men's wear)

The Aza people of the Pura ethnic group

In southern Yunnan and southeastern Yunnan, there is a scattered but very large group, they are collectively called Pula, Yi researchers collectively classify this group into the southeastern dialect of Yi language, but in fact, the Pula people can be divided into multiple groups with different languages. Although the Aza people in the Pura group are also called "Pula", their language is closer to Azhe and different from other Pura groups, so the author will introduce the Aza people in this article, and the other Pura groups will be introduced in the next article.

(The old grandmother of the Aza people who is hand-picking flowers)

The Aza people are mainly distributed in Wenshan City, Yanshan County and Maguan County, Wenshan Prefecture, and the clothing of the Aza people is relatively simple, generally composed of a headband, a blouse, a waist and trousers, but the details are very exquisite. The headscarf of the Aza women is decorated with many silver bubbles, buttons, embroidery and woolen tassels; the tunic is a long-sleeved cardigan with three to four different colors of cloth on the sleeves, and the collar and placket are decorated with embroidery, and the placket is generally covered with a trapezoidal white cloth; the girdle is the most exquisite part of the Aza women's clothing, and there are fine and delicate flat embroidery and flower patterns on the waistband, both sides of the girdle and the streamer, and the girdle chain is silver when dressed, and it is usually hung around the neck with a cloth belt or cord.

(Aza Women's Clothing)

(There are two types of Aza women's waistbands: flat and pointed, and the flat head waistband is also tied above the waist)

(Leggings are also included in the traditional Aza women's costume, which is now very rare)

The Azha branch in the Wenshan and Yanshan areas (?)

Although Wenshan Prefecture is not the main distribution area of the Yi people, the Yi tribes are numerous and complex, and the data is relatively small. There is also a branch of the Yi nationality in the area of Wenshan and Yanshan, mainly distributed in Binglie Yi Township, Weimo Yi Township and other places, the author has seen three different statements, because he has not been able to conduct research on the spot, the author can not judge which branch it is for the time being, but because its clothing is similar to that of the Aza people, and most of the information will be called the Azha branch, so temporarily put it in this part to introduce.

(The characteristic dance of Yakege Village, Binglie Yi Township - Magic Lantern Dance)

The costume of this Yi tribe also consisted of a turban, a tunic, a girdle and trousers, which was simpler than that of the aforementioned Azha. The turban is a solid color cloth, with tassels on the edge, and the wrapping method is similar to the three red branches of the Yi nationality in the area of Jianshui and Shiping in Honghe Prefecture; the jacket is a two-piece suit, with short sleeves on the outside and long sleeves on the inside, and the placket and cuffs of the short-sleeved shirt are decorated with lace or embroidery patterns; there are more embroidery patterns on the waist, and there are bright embroidered flower patterns on the waist and waist center, which adds a touch of color to the simple clothing. In addition to the costumes, the branch also has intricate embroidered straps that are much more elaborate than those on the garments.

(There is no embroidery on the placket of the old jacket of this branch, only the cuffs and waist are embroidered)

(Wang Lufen, the founder of the Yi embroidery brand of Huayun Baishapo in Yanshan County, she promoted and carried forward the embroidery of this Yi branch)

(The embroidered strap of this branch is embroidered with various patterns of flowers and birds with various silk threads, embellished with gold foil, and decorated with colored cloth as a superimposed diamond pattern)

Maitreya, Luxi Awu people

In the area of Maitreya and Luxi, there is also a branch of the Yi nationality called Awu, although the Awu people in the two places have the same name, but the clothing is quite different.

Maitreya Awu women's clothing is very exquisite, there are two kinds of headdresses, the head is wrapped with black cloth every day, and then a flower towel is wrapped outside, and the silver tassel is decorated with silver tassels and silver chains on the head of the black cloth bag when dressed; the top is a two-piece set, wearing a long-sleeved shirt inside, and wearing a cardigan outside, the more special place is that the button of the Awu women's gown is a silverfish-shaped child and mother button, and is decorated with silver bubble inlaid with zigzag at the placket; the pointed head is around the waist, the center of the waist is embroidered with floral patterns, the waist is inlaid with silver flowers, hanging silver chains, and decorated with silver bells, silverfish, Silver lions and other decorations, the details are very small and exquisite.

(Maitreya Awu women's daily attire)

(Modified Maitreya Awu Women's Costume)

(Maitreya Awu elderly women's clothing, abandon the complicated lace and silver ornaments, and the gown is also changed to a simple slanted black velvet gown)

Compared with the clothing of the Maitreya Awu people, the clothing of the Luxi Awu people is simpler, the women wear the cockscomb hat decorated with embroidery and silver bubbles, and use braids and silver chains to coil on the cockscomb hat, and also decorate the silver ornaments, beads, tassels and other decorations; the jacket generally wears a white-based long-sleeved shirt, and is decorated with black cloth and lace in the placket, collar, sleeves, etc.; the waist of the Awu woman is generally embroidered with four braids or appliqué embroidery patterns on the waist and ribbons, and there are also flat embroidery, pick flowers, The pattern of the appliqué is inlaid with two large hollowed-out silver flowers around the waist, connecting one or two smaller silver flowers and a girdle chain, which are hung around the neck, and black cloth trousers are worn underneath, with a small amount of lace on the trouser legs.

(Luxi Awu woman wearing a cockscomb hat)

(The embroidered waist of the Luxi Awu people, in addition to embroidery, there are lace and color thread hook decoration)

(Luxi Awu people dressed in full traditional costumes)

A native of Malipo Mengwu

In Malipo, Guangnan, Xichou and other counties in Wenshan Prefecture, there is a branch of the Yi people called the Mengwu people, and some sources mention that Awu also has the nickname of Mengwu, so the Mengwu people are temporarily put in this part for introduction. At present, the author only found the clothing information of the Mengwu people in Malipo: the women of the Mengwu people in Malipo wear black cloth headscarves, and the traditional blouse is made of blue cloth and decorated with parquet cloth at the cuffs, and now the blouse is also made of black cloth and decorated with lace. The top is shaped like a collared shirt, but there are still buttons on the left side of the body, and a long skirt with blue cloth and black cloth is worn underneath, and the shape of the clothing is very similar to that of the Wenshan Zhuang people.

(Malipo Mengwu traditional women's clothing)

(Malipo Mengwu contemporary women's clothing, lace is increased, lace and embroidery decorations are also added to the headband)

(Malipo Mengwu men's clothing, except for the bandana with embroidery edging, the whole set of clothes is very simple)

(Nowadays, only older women wear traditional clothing, and some men no longer wear cardigans)

This article mainly introduces the southeastern dialect Yi branch north of Nanpanjiang River in Honghe Prefecture and the surrounding areas, but because there is less information about the southeast dialect Yi branch, the content introduced in the article may not be comprehensive, and I hope that readers and friends can provide more opinions, criticism and correction!