(Xin Dongwang oil painting "Early")
How delicious is the pot dish, the unique Tianjin snack? The late cultural scholar Li Shiyu, who was born in the early 20s, has a memory before his death that when he was a child, near Liangjiazui in Tianjin, a pot shop called Zhang Ba opened by a man named Zhang Ba on Miaoqian Street in Tianjin: "In the morning, Zhang Ba shouted a throat pot and a pot dish was cooked, and every family came out to buy ... I have loved to eat this since I was a child, and every morning when I heard the shouts after the room, my mother asked the maid to carry the pot to beat it. Zhang Bakai's stall price is nearly three times more expensive than Da Fu Lai (also near Liangjiazui), one is seven cents, one is two cents, I would rather spend three times the price to eat Zhang Bawei'er's pot dish! ”
Now there are two most famous pot dishes in Tianjin, one is Da Fu Lai, and the other is Zhen Su Cheng, both of which are chain operations. Eat a bowl of Da Fu Lai pot dishes, and then imagine a pot dish that is three times more delicious than this, that is, Zhang Ba Pot Ba Dish, which only exists in legends.
(Pot dish)
After a few words of gossip, the book returned to the truth and began to talk about pot dishes. Regarding the source of the pot dish, Zhang Lan, a descendant of Zhang Qing in the Liangshan vegetable garden during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, came to Tianjin from Shandong to open a pancake shop near the mouth of the Sancha River, and Qianlong Ye got off the boat and entered the shop to eat pancake rolls and green onions, after eating thirst, wanted to drink soup, Zhang Lan was anxious and wise, shredded the pancakes and added spices to boil water, invented the panba dish. However, this matter is over, Tianjin snacks like to lean on the emperor, such as the dog ignores the bun was given to Cixi by Yuan Shikai, and the stone gate kansu bao Cixi also ate, all of which are legends.
However, the pot dish is definitely related to the Shandong pancake. Shandong people love to eat pancakes, after the stall is dry, they will cut the pancakes into strips, pour the brine, put on the seasoning, called pancake soup, similar to the Shanghai people's soup to make rice. Pu Songling wrote "Pancake Fu", in which "there are more layers of folding, broken kitchen knives, vertical and horizontal chaos, absolutely like cold Tao, soup with salt sauce, end of the blue pepper, boiling water in Dingzhong, scattered gold bars", describing the Shandong pancake soup, which can be seen as the past life of pot dishes. After being brought to Tianjin, Shandong pancake soup has evolved several times and become more and more adapted to the tastes of Tianjin people, and finally became a unique flavor of Tianjin.
(Old Tianjin Wei)
The so-called pancakes, that is, the eight points of mung beans, two points of millet or rice (also with pure mung beans) ground noodles into a paste, spread with a wood-fired stove, spread as thin as possible, spread out the pot for three days without deterioration, do not change the taste, cut into willow leaves for thin slices for later.
When brine, first use shallots, ginger, sesame oil to simmer, fry coriander stalks until browned, coriander stalks are the key, and then add noodle sauce, soy sauce, large powder, after the pot is opened to make a brine. Bring water to a boil and stir with salt, melt and combine the two pots into one, then add minced ginger and spiced noodles to the pot, and use corn starch to contour.
When selling pot vegetables, first put the pot in a large pot of soup and marinade, stir it, put it in a bowl, pour it with sesame sauce, soy sauce tofu juice, chili oil, sprinkle with chopped coriander, and fry the dried brine beans. The coriander stalks sprinkled in the bowl and the coriander stalks when boiling the brine can be called the secret of the pot dish. In addition, the old tofu and the brine of the pot dish that are laid early seem to be the same, but in fact, it is two pots, and the brine of the old tofu is basically the meat brine of chicken soup, with yellow cauliflower, wood ear fungus, etc.; the pot dish is vegetarian brine.
(The so-called pot)
In Tianjin in the 1930s, there were stalls selling pots and pans everywhere, and there were more than a dozen merchants with a name, mainly Da Fu Lai, Wan Shun Cheng, Zhang Maolin, Bao HeXuan, etc., which continued so far only Da Fu Lai, the rest have disappeared, founded in 1979, Zhen Su Cheng came to the top, and Da Fu Lai went hand in hand, and branches all over Tianjin.
Da Fu Lai was founded in the Qing Guangxu years, the founder was called Zhang Qifa, the initial name was "Zhang Ji Pancake Shop", because his wife gave birth to a fat son, Zhang Qifa was happy, gave the child the name of "Da Fu Lai", and later his family's pot dish was also called "Da Fu Lai".
Located in the northwest corner of The West Dawanzi, Dafulai moved to No. 29 Liangjiazui after the public-private partnership, and the store was expanded more than ten times from the two facades. Da Fu Lai pot Ba cuisine later opened a lot of branches, always slightly more expensive than other pot ba dish, the earliest pot ba dish generally sold six cents a bowl, Da Fu Lai price eight cents, now generally three or four dollars a bowl, Da Fu Lai five or six dollars.
(Beef roast cake tea egg is a perfect match for pot dishes)
Although Wan Shuncheng disappeared, he left many fragments of memory. Zhang Shouchen's 1930s work "Exaggerated Elegance" mentions the food names of Beijing and Tianjin at that time: "Quanjude's roast duck, Daoxiangcun red braised chicken, Sen Chunyang plate duck, Pushizhai tube chicken, Tongxingtang sweet and sour fish, Zhimeizhai grilled fish head, Zhimeilou braised claw tip, Fengzeyuan sugar lotus seeds, HSBC Tang steamed rice duck, Xinfenglou lion's head, Sha pot ju pig eight kinds, Huixianju fried liver, Dengyinglou grilled sea cucumber, Tianhe Yujiu turn large intestine, Baikui roasted lamb, Tonghe Xuan Tasmi, Liangyixuan pot roasted half a stick, XichengLou stewed beef, pie Zhou Bao stew." , Jinyang Lou over the oil meat, Taifeng Lou braised three fresh, Zhoujia canteen family portrait, six flavors of vegetarian mix, Wan Shuncheng's pot dish. Wan Shuncheng's pot dishes are among them.
Wan Shuncheng first started his business in Dongxing Street, Nanshi City, selling rice porridge, and in the late 20s, wanshun ingredient shop was added at the intersection of Liaoning Road and Changchun Road to make and sell pot vegetables and eight treasure porridge. During the Republic of China, Wan Shuncheng sold pot dishes all day, and the food writer Liu Fang wrote in the book "The Art of Eating", "Wan Shuncheng is often full of customers every night, and everyone has a bowl of pots in front of him." Later, Wan Shuncheng changed its name to Beijing-Tianjin Snack Bar, which mainly played small bean porridge, donkey rolling and the like, and pot dishes were no longer sold.
(Eat pot dishes must be accompanied by fried dumplings)
The difference between Wan Shun Cheng and other pot dishes is that it is meat and brine. The gourmand Tang Lusun wrote in "Eating Jingu Snacks in China": "In tianjin, vegetarian brine pots and pans have to be bought everywhere in the morning. There is a meat slice brine of the pot dish, in the green tram road French church in a hutong mouth, the brine is fat lean meat slices, plus yellow flower fungus hooked out, that is much more delicious than vegetarian brine, it is said that this is the only meat brine in Tianjin. There is a set of secrets for hooking and brine, a bowl of pots and pans, and it is not diarrhea to eat the bottom of the bowl..."
Makoto is after the late stage of the pot dish. Zhen Sucheng three characters, the Republic of China was originally the name of a sesame oil mill, located in Hebei Avenue Sanjoshi. His descendants worked in the state-run early shop of the Guanyin, and the family lived in the vegetable road entrance of Jingangqiao. In 1979, 21-year-old Liu Yaru, his parents and sister's family, using the name of Zhen Sucheng, opened a private breakfast shop in front of their homes, which was the first batch of self-employed households in Tianjin.
Zhen Sucheng's brine contains secret five-spice powder, a small bowl of pots and pans sells one or two grain coupons, a dime, and a large bowl of one or two grain coupons, two cents. Sold every morning from 5:00 to 9:30. Later, Zhen Sucheng moved to Truth Road on the Hedong Central Ring Road, and now has developed more than 20 chain franchise stores, such as Xiaoli roast chicken, Meiling ramen, second sister-in-law pancake dumplings, etc., which have become legends of Tianjin catering in recent decades.
Tianjin is located in Bohai Bay, itself is a salt production area, Tianjin people eat food taste is relatively heavy, Tianjin cuisine is also based on fresh and salty, the old Tianjin people say "to relieve hunger, spicy salty", pot dishes are salty and spicy. Tianjin-style snacks include steaming and grilling, frying and braising, just say early, dumplings, vegetarian roll rings, pancake dumplings, baked cakes; pulp, old tofu, pot vegetables, wonton, known as the "eight king kong", although now destroyed by gutter oil enough, but Tianjin people are still inseparable. A bowl of pot vegetables, accompanied by dumplings, sugar crusts, beef pancakes, tea eggs, as you like, eat as you want.
Born in Tianjin and later living in Shanghai, the Peking Opera name Dan Tong Zhiling loves to eat pot food, representing a wanderer's heart, and also talks about the status of pot food in the folk: "I grew up in Tianjin, so I love to eat Tianjin's early pot food, which looks like spring roll skin, which is a local flavor snack, like Beijing's bean juice, Shanghai's tofu flowers, are cheap and good public food." (Text: He Yuxin)