Eating is the memory of my hometown.
Lin Yutang said: "If there is anything in the world that deserves our careful consideration, it is not religion or learning, but eating." ”
Every time he went to a place, Lin Yutang first figured out the place to eat, high-grade, roadside, he had to try one by one.
However, nothing is more delicious than eating in my hometown.
Relatives in Xiamen sometimes come to Shanghai with them many souvenirs from their hometown, including homemade radish cakes, dried longan, and convex oranges, and bayberry marinated in sugar water, which is refreshing to even smell. More important is the meat floss, which is a favorite of the Liao family and is packed in a tin box. At that time, Xiamen to Shanghai was a big thing, you had to take a three-day boat, Liao Cuifeng cherished it, collected it strictly, and only occasionally took it out to let her husband and children taste it.
Lin Yutang prides himself on being a "believer in the Epicureans (hedonists)", thanks to the fact that he married a good wife.
The Liao family women in Gulangyu Are all hard-working people, they put all their wisdom and energy into the kitchen, the outside world is in turmoil, they only care about whose meat is finely sliced, whose meat is done well. Lin Taiyi once went to the street with Liao Cuifeng, and she planned to discuss with the president of the Academia Sinica about Reader's Digest. Liao Cuifeng said to herself, she will stop to buy some meat floss to bring back to Hong Kong, and then asked her daughter, do you say that it is good to buy meat floss, or is it good to have meat crisp? Tai Yi did not respond, she continued to say, the meat crisp is a bit like Fuzhou's small jerky, and fish pine, the taste is also very good; beef jerky is also good, spicy and not spicy, do the best to make wine dishes, send friends can also be; children seem to prefer to eat beef grains, do you want to buy a little? Three pounds is enough? Otherwise buy 5 pounds. Lin Taiyi smiled secretly, thinking that perhaps in his mother's mind, buying meat pine was much more important than talking to the dean of the research institute.
With her family's craftsmanship, Liao Cuifeng, who loves to be lively, is more popular than Lin Yutang in the social circle.
Her best steamed cabbage fat duck, the duck is steamed, the meat is tender and smooth, so fresh that people want to swallow even the tongue, the cabbage is soaked in duck oil, soaked transparently, put in the mouth and melted. There is also stewed chicken, first use ginger, garlic, green onion to fry chicken nuggets, and then add shiitake mushrooms, golden needles, fungus, soy sauce, wine candy, simmer for several hours, the mixed aroma of chicken and shiitake mushrooms in the house for a long time, Lin Yutang can eat three bowls of rice in one breath. His friends often came uninvited, and Liao Cuifeng did not have time to buy vegetables, so he cooked a large pot of Xiamen brine noodles, accompanied by pork, shrimp, shiitake mushrooms, golden needles, spinach, and slowly boiled with chicken soup. Several large men held bowls and ate all over the stove with their mouths full of oil. Sometimes Cuifeng will also make Xiamen rice, stir-fry shredded pork, dried shrimp, shiitake mushrooms, cabbage, cauliflower, radish flat, mixed into the rice and stewed, sprinkle some pepper and black vinegar when eating, the Lin family children like to eat this the most.
Overseas in a foreign country, making a hometown meal is a big day for the Lin family. Lin Yutang drove, and the whole family went out to Chinatown to buy vegetables. The wet market is noisy, all kinds of unpleasant smells are filled with it, Lin Yutang only chooses meat, from ordinary meat to raw seafood, no meat is not happy. Cuifeng pays attention to nutritional balance and buys more green vegetables. "Mom, I'm going to eat stewed eel!" That's right. "No, I'm going to eat steamed crab!" Tai Yi also rushed to shout. "All of them, all of them!" Cui Feng answered unbeatenly.
The third daughter is most like the Liao family, with little interest in literature, but a strong memory of food. When she was very young, she followed Lin Yutang to a dinner at a restaurant in the south of France, and she remembered the ingredients and methods of the dish many years later. She won the true biography of Cui Feng, and the mother and daughter collaborated to produce books such as "Chinese Cooking Secrets" and "Chinese Recipes", which were all best-selling, and the previous one also won the award of the Frankfurt Culinary Society.
Every New Year's Festival, it is like helping Cuifeng make Xiamen pancakes with complicated processes. Pancakes, also known as spring cakes, are used by Xiamen people to entertain VIPs. The crust is made with a special very thin and soft flour and baked aside. The material is also very exquisite, the pork, dried beans, shrimp, hollandaise beans, winter shoots, shiitake mushrooms and other shredded and diced, fried in a hot pot, and then put in the pot with broth boiling, the heat must be mastered, too dry no juice, not delicious, too wet, the pancake crust will break, too oily is not good, to boil for several hours to be just right. On small plates, flat fish crisps, chili sauce, sweet sauce, tiger moss, coriander, ground peanuts, and neatly cut shallots are placed on the table. Wrapping pancakes is more learned, first applying the ingredients to the crust, and then wrapping the hot ingredients into a spoonful of soups, so that they cannot be broken. One bite down, the crispness of the flat fish, the dry aroma of tiger moss, the coolness of coriander, the various flavors mixed together, it is really the best delicacy under the heavens. Lin Yutang was hungry, every time he wrapped a lot of ingredients in it, before he could eat the skin, it broke, the juice was left along the arm, making it all over, the daughters did not have time to laugh at him, and the hands quickly wrapped the pancakes and sent them to their mouths.
Only Xiamen people can eat pancakes well, a family feast, eat thousands of miles of nostalgia.
The famous painter Zhang Daqian passed through New York from Brazil to Europe and brought a fresh carp head to visit Lin Yutang. Cuifeng boiled it red, and likewise made a "roasted green pepper" to honor this artist from Sichuan. Lin Yutang did not drink alcohol, and after seeing his old friend for many years, he opened two bottles of Taiwanese flower carvings to help entertain. Raising the wine glass, the conversation box was opened, they recalled that in the winter of 1943, Lin Yutang went to Chengdu, Zhang Daqian returned from Dunhuang sketching, Zhang Qun received the wind for them, accompanied by Shen Yinmo, the guests and hosts talked very happily, and in a flash of so many years, the old friends walked away, the broken contact, and they had not returned to their hometown for a long time on the other side of the world...
Daqian returned from Europe and made an Eastern Banquet to invite Lin Yutang. They went to the famous Chinese restaurant Sihai Lou in New York, Zhang Daqian ordered the signature dish sturgeon big wings, Lin Yutang ate this shark fin soup from South Africa for the first time, and studied and joked. There is also a "Sichuan waist flower" invented by Zhang Daqian, and another wine steamed duck, which is fragrant and delicious.
"Well, there is the flavor of Shanghai's 'little and heavenly'!" Lin Yutang ate a few chopsticks and praised them one after another.
"Yu Tang, do you remember that when 'Little Heaven' entered the escalator, it was confronted by a couplet of Zheng Xiaoxu: Dao Dao is very Dao, every day is small and heavenly, very elegant!"
"Speak, don't salivate, know that New York has no heaven." Lin Yutang answered wittily.
They also talked about Qi Baishi, and Zhang Daqian said: "Baishi became a great painter because he hit two hundred boards of butts. Lin Yutang did not know the allusion and hurriedly asked what was going on. Zhang Daqian took a sip of wine and said slowly, it turned out that Qi Baishi was a carpenter when he was young, and he was very famous for carving flowers, and later for some reason, he was punished by the court for two hundred times, fled to Guangxi, and then began to learn to draw with an iron pen.
"Really? The next time I see him, I'll have a good meal! Lin Yutang patted his thigh and laughed.
Lin Yutang has a stomach with amazing digestive power.
He visited Liao's house for the first time, and the amount of food he ate made Cui Feng in the waiting girl still fresh in his memory.
He wrote to Cuifeng: "In my stomach, nothing can be digested except eraser. Cui Feng read it to her daughters, and several people laughed until they covered their stomachs and called.
Lin Yutang rarely gets sick, occasionally colds and flus, Cuifeng let him avoid mouth, Lin Yutang retorted: "I will treat my own disease, that is, the way to eat more, my illness will be better." When he couldn't find anything to eat, he begged his daughter for fruit.
He likes to get up in the middle of the night to eat. Once he felt hungry, fried 5 eggs, and ate two shortbread. Another time, he ate 4 cookies. Cui Feng teased him, and he said straightly: "Last night I felt hungry, I have been thinking about it for more than ten minutes, I don't know whether it is good to get up or not to get up." I felt ashamed again, just to eat, to get up when I slept, but if I didn't eat something and let my stomach empty, then I wouldn't be able to sleep. He ate another piece of shortbread and muttered, "Poor me! I feel better now, but I'm still a little hungry! ”
Lin Yutang is not a polite person, but when he is really hungry, he will pretend to say, "I don't want to eat anything." If you say, "The beef soup is delicious!" "It means another bowl." He's known for his fondness for roast beef, and when he eats it well, he eats it well, and when he doesn't do it well, he eats it well.
He hated people's meals after 8 o'clock or 8 o'clock, and when he encountered such a feast, he must have filled his stomach and then went.
He said in the article "Speaking of the Belly": "All animals have such a bottomless pit called the belly." This bottomless pit has affected our entire civilization. ”
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