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Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

author:Eat with the garden

Original text: Lamb tripe soup: Wash the lamb tripe, boil it and cut it into strips, and simmer it with this soup. Add pepper and vinegar. Northerners stir-fry the law, southerners can not be as crisp as it is. Qian Jie Sha Fang Bo family pot roast lamb is excellent, will seek its method.

Qing Yuan's "Suiyuan Food List" special livestock list.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

Many southerners are not accustomed to eating these lamb tripe, and the smell is too heavy, but the old Beijingers are good at this mouthful. The general way to eat lamb tripe, in addition to using stir-fry, mix, morel tripe simmered soup to make soup, only the best way to fry. Lamb tripe is suitable for water bursting, oil bursting, soup bursting, coriander popping and so on. Oil bursting is the practice of restaurants and restaurants, such as oil bursting belly kernels. It is the method in Lu cuisine, after the belly is blanched with water, then fried in oil. Soup is blanched in water and then boiled in broth to brew lamb tripe, similar to belly soup. Coriander (often written as salt burst) is named after the addition of coriander (coriander) when cooking. Water bursts are the special skills of the city vendors, each with its own stunts. Water burst belly is what everyone often talks about the burst belly, requiring water to be hot and hot, according to the different parts, in the boiling water hot more than ten seconds, less than a few seconds, fished out after dipping small materials to eat, water burst does not need to completely cook the belly, and need more technology and experience to master the time and heat.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

What is a belly bump? Popcorn is a famous snack in our old Beijing, is a home-cooked small dish often eaten by the halal noble Muslims living in Beijing in the early years, to put it bluntly, it is to soak different parts of the stomach of cattle and sheep in boiling water, and then dip in the small ingredients prepared in advance to eat. According to the different parts of the stomach of the cow and sheep, different tastes, different names, make it more vivid and promote appetite. Liang Shiqiu recalled the style of bursting belly in "Yashe Talking about Eating": "The belly is a lamb's belly, the sheep in the north of the mouth is fat and large, and the sheep's stomach has several parts: sandan, gourd, belly plate, belly collar, with the belly collar as the thickest." The popcorn sold in the restaurant is limited to the belly collar, and it is peeled, so it is called belly kernel. There are three ways to fry belly kernels: salt bursting, oil bursting, and soup popping."

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

The lamb tripe is subdivided into gourds, food letters, belly plates, belly cores, belly kernels, belly collars, sandan, mushrooms, and mushroom heads. Different parts of the lamb tripe, the taste is not the same, the food letter is the esophagus, the taste is harder, not easy to chew. The belly plate is the rumen of the sheep, the taste is crisp, the taste is thick, and it is not easy to chew. Belly collar: A bulge on the rumen, the flesh is thick, the taste is crisp and tender, and it is very popular among diners. The belly removes the skin of the belly collar, leaving the white tender parts. The taste is the most tender, it is the most expensive part of the belly, and the price is 2-3 times that of the general belly. Gourd is a honeycomb stomach, generally cut into short strips, hard and has a special taste, the most difficult to chew. If the heat is slightly over, it is completely impossible to chew. Sandan is also called Sandan, the heavy flap of the stomach of sheep. Equivalent to beef blinds, the taste is more average, the taste is crisp and tender, suitable for early tasters. The mushroom is a sharp stomach, generally cut into circles, tender white, and tough on the palate. Due to its proximity to the lower end of the digestive tract, mushrooms have their special taste. The mushroom head is the end part of the mushroom, which is stronger and tougher than the mushroom. Due to the small output, it takes 6-7 sheep to put together a plate, which is the most difficult to see in various stores, and there are basically no small-scale popcorn shops.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

Beijing is an ancient cultural capital with a long history, and food culture is also a very important part. Beijing sells a lot of old brands of popcorn, Beijing's more famous popcorn has man, Zhang, Feng, Wang, etc. Several, Niujiekou also has a pop belly crooked, I have seen the old treasurer, the head is indeed a little crooked, now it is a posterity to operate, on the TV show, the reporter asked why the name of the store is crooked, posterity of its head crooked answer, because their shop burst belly is delicious, guests can eat a belly crooked every time and get their name, they cling to the tradition left by the elders, the flavor has its own characteristics, inheriting the endless aftertaste of snacks, not only the belly burst is good, The stories circulating among them are even more popular and intriguing. In the past, when it comes to eating authentic popcorns, many people will definitely say, find "bursting belly Feng" to go. However, there have been two "bursting belly Feng" in Beijing, and these two "bursting belly fengs" are located in Dongzhimennei Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing, with the name Jinshenglong bursting belly feng, and one is located in the front door frame hutong of the old Beijing snack gathering place, directly under the name of "bursting belly Feng". The two Feng families in Beijing City are very generous, the ingredients are fresh, washed clean, and the taste is crisp, tender and fragrant, and the play is very authentic.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

But this "burst belly Feng" is not one, originally these two are well water does not violate the river water, each doing a business, but the business is more and more prosperous, the name of "Burst Belly Feng" is also more and more loud. With the improvement of modern people's brand awareness. Finally, at the end of the 1990s, the two "bursting belly Feng" started a lawsuit against the court, and they both had to straighten themselves out, saying that they were the only real "bursting belly Feng". As the saying goes, a stroke can not write two surnames, "burst belly Feng" it is also coincidental, they have a lot of commonalities, first of all, they are surnamed Feng, are halal Hui, from time these two families have a hundred years above, in history are called burst belly Feng, the two Feng family's business is burst belly, the hometown is Shandong, more interesting is that the second generation of the Feng family has a golden word, Feng Jinhe, Feng Jinsheng, which makes this matter more dramatic, although five hundred years ago it was one. But on the issue of trademark disputes, I really wrote two Feng characters in one stroke. In 1997, the Qianmen Door Frame Hutong Exploding Belly Feng registered the trademark "Burst belly Feng", and "Burst Belly Feng" became the legal holder of the trademark "Burst Belly Feng" due to the trademark registration. Jin Shenglong Burst Belly Feng is not registered, and having "Burst Belly Feng" in the name involves trademark infringement. Therefore, the Dongcheng Industrial and Commercial Branch bureau decided to determine that Jin Shenglong had infringed the legitimate rights and interests of Qianmen Bursting Belly Feng in accordance with the Trademark Law, and ordered him to immediately stop the infringing act and dismantle the infringing trademark, and at the same time fined 9200 yuan. At this point, this noisy dispute between the two Fengs in the city, the public case between the Feng family and the Jinsheng Long Feng family in the door frame hutong came to an end.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

When it comes to "bursting belly Feng", the old Beijingers know it. As a famous snack in Beijing, "Bursting Belly Feng" is famous in the front door frame alley. Folk proverb: "In front of the East Four West Single Drum Tower, the front gate of Wangfujing is a large fence, and there is a small door frame alley in the sky." "Although the door frame hutong is small, its fame can be compared with several prosperous places in Beijing, because its Beijing-style snacks are deeply rooted in the hearts of the people." Feng Guangju passed away on December 29, 2014, an 82-year-old man who has been doing one thing all his life, reviving Beijing snacks. It is the "main heart" of the old Beijing snacks to borrow Mr. Yuan Ming's belly silk soup this time, because I know Uncle Feng well, let's talk about the "bursting belly Feng" at the front door to commemorate.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

"Burst belly Feng" is the Qing Guangxu years by The Shandong LingXian Feng Lishan entrepreneurship, the earliest in Beijing Houmen Bridge to operate the pop belly, the last year by the second generation of Feng Jinhe continued to operate the pop belly, in the operation of the delve into the study, elaborate production, so that the pop belly taste strong, deeply loved by the palace painters, eunuchs and flag people. Later, on the recommendation of the eunuchs on duty in the palace, the explosive belly Feng became a special supply point for the special stomach of the Qing Palace's imperial dining room, and until the Qing Emperor abdicated, the qing palace's exclusive supply was gradually canceled. In order to maintain business, Feng Jinhe moved to the front porch room Erjo and formed a snack bar with five restaurants, including popcorn horses and hot noodle dumpling horses, which was known as the Little Six Kingdoms Hotel by all walks of life at that time.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

In 1935, in the north section of the door frame Hutong Road East opened a pop belly Feng restaurant, became a famous door frame hutong snack stall in Beijing in the important cuisine, the third generation of Feng Guangju from childhood with his father to learn to inherit the traditional production methods, and the selection of raw materials to work hard, especially in the preparation of condiments carefully studied, bold innovation, so that its pop belly color, aroma and taste are good. From 1937 to 1957, it was the most beautiful era of door frame hutongs, the southern section of the door frame hutongs and tofu brain white, rice cake Yang, cook Yang, pop belly Yang, pea Huang Wan, rice cake king, Fushun Zhai sauce beef old shop, cheese Wei, etc. formed a door frame hutong snack street, many literati and inkers such as Lu Xun, Ba Jin, Ding Ling, etc.; Han Langen, Chen Yan, Bai Yang in the film and television industry; Jin Shaoshan, Qiu Shengrong, Xun Huisheng, Shang Xiaoyun, Li Wanchun, Tan Fuying, etc. in the opera industry are regular customers of the door frame alley. Because the TongxiGuan after the joint venture was continued to be responsible for the production of various snacks by the descendants of these joint ventures, it continued to win the favor of the film industry, the pear garden industry, the music art circle, and the literati inkers. Become an important place for them to taste the real Beijing-style snacks. Due to the advent of the cooperative joint venture and the joint venture movement, feng he entered the Tongxiguan restaurant in the door frame hutong, and the other stalls merged into the state-run tea house at the west entrance of the Dashilar, thus ending the fate of the door frame hutong snacks. At the time of the joint venture, Feng Guangju's wife Liu Fengwen entered the Tongxi Pavilion and continued to be responsible for the stall of exploding belly and shabu-shabu as a representative of the capital until his retirement in 1985. Due to China's reform and opening up policy, Feng Guangju, the third generation of Feng Guangju, with his sons Feng Qiusheng, Feng Fusheng and Feng Yunting, restored the old brand of Feng in 1985 at No. 24 Ertiao in the front porch. In 1995, he was registered with the State Trademark Office. From 1998 to 1999, Burst Belly Feng applied for and established Beijing Burst Belly Feng Catering Service Co., Ltd. In 2001, Beijing successfully bid for the Olympic Games, held a halal cooking technology competition, and Feng's "Three Products of Bursting Belly Ren" won the gold medal, and in 2000, it was rated as a famous chinese dish by the State Bureau of Domestic Trade.

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

After saying that the pop belly Feng, it is time to do the garden dish, Yuan Mei said, the treatment of lamb tripe northern people are good at, the southern people are not able to do it, do not do as crisp and tender as the north, but Mr. Yuan has a trick, using lamb tripe to make soup, can be described as ingenious, unique. With morel to make soup, it is best to use hundreds of leaves, belly board, boiled after cutting fine shreds, the pot on the fire to add chicken soup simmering, with boiled belly soup is better, this is a major feature of garden dishes, what dish with what soup, chicken with chicken soup, duck with duck soup, crab soup with crab soup, lamb tripe soup with boiled lamb tripe soup, put salt, shao wine, ginger juice, pepper to find a good taste, and then put the lamb tripe shredded, bamboo shoot shreds, boil on high heat, beat the foam, change to simmer into the taste, use water starch to hook, add fragrant vinegar to evenly, out of the pot to put coriander segments, lamb belly soup sour and spicy, appetizing

Suiyuan Food Talk The important symbol of old Beijing food culture: bursting belly

Some of the photos in this article are taken from the Internet, and I would like to thank you here.

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