I often hear the word "hanging soup", and I often make fresh soup, but I have never seriously analyzed the use of various and various types of fresh soup.
Although soup plays an auxiliary role in cooking, in the period when there is no MSG, adding fresh soup to dishes is the simplest and most effective way to add freshness. To this day, when many high-end hotels make high-end ingredients, it is still indispensable to use fresh soup to ensure the original taste of the dishes and add color to the dishes.
Ah Qian in the previous article before there is no MSG we mainly use it to improve fresh, learned to cook without MSG can be in the article, simply talked about the production of fresh soup: the choice of raw materials, the classification of fresh soup, the general steps of making fresh soup, today, we specifically explain the specific production methods of several fresh soups that are usually commonly used.
According to the color and concentration of fresh soup, we generally divide fresh soup into two categories: white soup and clear soup. White soup is divided into ordinary white soup (mao soup) and thick white soup (milk soup); and clear soup is divided into ordinary clear soup and high-grade clear soup (also known as broth, soup, top soup), according to the production process, that is, the number of "hanging soup" processes, high-grade clear soup is subdivided into "one hanging soup", "two hanging soup" and "three hanging soup".
White soup
Broth
Ordinary white soup belongs to the simplest production process and is relatively less time-consuming fresh soup. This kind of soup is relatively rough to make, called hair soup. Ordinary white soup in the industry is a relatively common kind of soup, the material is more extensive, the use of a variety of uses, whether it is a star hotel or a small street shop can afford to use, whether it is noodle soup, or burn a sauerkraut fish, braised pork, stewed some dishes, are more suitable.
When making ordinary white soup, the choice of ingredients is not particularly strict, and some scraps such as chicken racks, duck racks, pork bones, and meat skins can be used. When making, first blanch the ingredients, remove blood foam, impurities and odors, put cold water in the pot, add green onion, ginger, cooking wine to remove fishy, keep boiling state for 2----3 hours after boiling, and wait for the soup to become milky white.
The ingredients selected for ordinary white soup can be reused with water, and the longer the time, the lighter the soup color, the more you can fish out the re-made soup, or you can add new ingredients to continue boiling.
Hair soup
Compared with ordinary white soup, thick white soup requires a little effort when making it. The most critical difference between thick white soup and ordinary white soup is the heat and time. The thick white soup is not only thick and white, but also the umami taste of the ingredients can be released to a greater extent.
When making a thick white soup, it is also necessary to blanch the ingredients, wash it, add green onion, ginger, and cooking wine to the pot in cold water, and after the water boils, turn it into a low heat, so that the surface of the soup can boil slightly. After simmering for more than 6 hours, the soup is completely milky white, and the thick white soup is ready.
Thick white soup is time-consuming, laborious, when cooking, it is more suitable for cooking some of the ingredients that have a relatively light taste, suitable for stewing, boiling, stewing, burning, simmering some food, thick white soup as a medium, better stimulate the taste of the ingredients themselves, and the taste of fresh flavor is also relatively strong.
Milk soup
Compared with white soup, it is more difficult to make clear soup. The clear soup not only requires the preservation of the delicious taste of the ingredients, but also to avoid the containing of gum and fat in the ingredients as much as possible, so that the soup is thick and white. The preparation of clear soup should pay attention to the following points:
Choice of ingredients
The preparation of clear soup is different from the production of white soup, and the requirements for the finished product are very high, so it is not sloppy in choosing ingredients. The role of soup is mainly to add freshness to dishes, so the clear soup should choose ingredients rich in umami; the soup should be fragrant, the odor of the ingredients can not be too much, cows, sheep, fish, etc. are not optional, of course, to make beef clear soup and lamb clear soup except; to ensure that the soup color is clear, the fat, collagen, bone collagen, blood stains, impurities of the ingredients should be less.
Therefore, to make clear soup, you should choose old hens or lean pork, especially old hens.
Clear chicken soup, see a little impurity
As early as Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Food List", there is a record of the old hen used to boil the clear soup, and Yuan Ming had a high evaluation of the role of the old chicken in cooking. "The chicken is the most powerful, and the vegetables depend on it, so it is the head of the Yu clan, and he is attached to the birds, and the Yu clan is single." In the "Garden Menu", there are more than 30 kinds of chicken dishes about chickens.
Handling of ingredients
Before making clear soup, the handling of ingredients is also particularly critical, the processing of ingredients is to remove impurities, blood stains and odors of ingredients, and the common treatment methods are:
1. The raw materials are initially cleaned to remove impurities and blood stains.
2: Put the ingredients in a pot with cold water and blanch it, boil it and skim off the foam, in the process you can add a little cooking wine to and froth. At this time, the blood stains and impurities inside the ingredients are basically cleaned out.
3, blanch the ingredients, wash again, wash off the impurities on the surface of the ingredients.
4, when making soup, add green onions, ginger, cooking wine to fishy, but the amount of cooking wine should not be too much, because cooking wine contains caramel color.
Choice of heat
If you want the soup to be clear, in addition to not choosing ingredients that are easy to make the soup white, the heat of the soup is also a key point. If the soup is to be clear, it must be simmered slowly. When making clear soup, put cold water under the pot, turn the water to a low heat immediately after boiling, and see that the surface of the soup seems to be boiling or not boiling, and it can be slightly opened. This kind of firepower is maintained for about 3 hours, and the clear soup is ready.
If the fire is too large, the soup can easily turn white, and if the fire is not enough, the umami in the ingredients cannot be well emitted.
Huaiyang famous dish "big boiled dry silk", using clear chicken soup, that is, ordinary clear soup
High-grade clear soup, with the word "advanced", that is, clear soup plus, is an enhanced version of ordinary clear soup. High-grade clear soup is based on ordinary clear soup, and the "hanging soup" process is carried out.
What kind of operation is "hanging soup"? Hanging soup is actually the process of adsorbing impurities in soup with fresh ingredients.
The specific production process of "hanging soup" is as follows:
1, the cooked ordinary chicken soup let go, then the fat in the soup will float on the surface of the soup, the grease will be fished out first.
2. Use gauze to filter the ordinary clear soup from the oil to remove impurities.
3, the fresh chicken thigh meat or chicken breast or pork lean meat to remove the fascia and fat, chop into minced meat, soaked in water, add onion, ginger, cooking wine to fishy, soaked in bloody water.
4: Remove the green onion and ginger and filter out the blood.
5. Pour the processed minced meat into the clear soup after the previous filter, quickly open the fire and heat it, keep it slightly boiling for about 5 minutes after boiling, filter out the minced meat and other impurities, and get "a hanging soup".
6. Repeat the steps above 3, 4 and 5 once to get the "two hanging soup"; repeat the second time to get the "three hanging soup".
The soup used in "boiling water cabbage" looks like white water and is full of umami
The same is true of the high-grade clear soup used in the traditional dish of Sichuan cuisine, "boiling water cabbage".
Selection
In cooking, no matter what kind of dish is made, the ingredients must be fresh and non-spoiled, even if it is ham, bacon and pickles, etc., it is also necessary to ensure that there is no mold and deterioration, so as to ensure the flavor of the ingredient pattern. The same is true when making soups, where if the ingredients are not fresh, the peculiar smell of the ingredients will be brought to the soup.
Initial treatment
In the preparation of soup, the initial treatment of ingredients is generally three steps: changing the knife, cleaning, and boiling water.
The purpose of changing the knife is to make the ingredients adapt to the container, and to facilitate the distribution of raw material ingredients, such as boiling stick bone broth, you can first break the stick bone, if you make clear soup, the old hen whole chicken boils soup, do not have to change the knife, because the knife will produce bone residue, bone collagen will make the soup thick white.
By washing, we remove the unusable oil, lymph, trachea, and throat parts of the ingredients, and remove the blood stains on the surface of the ingredients.
Blanching water, one is to remove the odor of raw materials, the other is to remove the blood stains of raw materials, and the cold water can force out the blood stains inside the raw materials.
Water use
When making fresh soup, it should be boiled in cold water, and it is not advisable to add water twice during the cooking process. If you really want to add water, you can't add cold water, you should add boiling water. After the soup is made, the ratio of ingredients to water is generally 1:1.5, which is very appropriate, and the amount of water in the soup can be slightly less, and the amount of water in the clear soup can be slightly more.
If there is more water, the soup is not delicious enough, and the taste will be relatively weak; if there is less water, it will waste the ingredients, and it is not conducive to the dissemination of the umami taste of the ingredients.
Grasp of the heat
When cooking soup, when the water boils, the foam is skimmed clean, and then the firepower needs to be adjusted, the fire does not need to be too large, too large a fire is easy to boil the water dry, and the umami in the ingredients has not yet been fully emitted.
Heating time
The production of fresh soup in the cooking call, time is very important, this should be considered according to the number of ingredients, the shape and size of the knife, in general, to make the umami in the ingredients emitted, it takes about 3 hours, this is just a reference value, the specific situation is still determined according to the degree of soup.
"Chef's soup, singing cavity", in the materialistic flow, all kinds of compound flavor condiments are full of now, how many chefs can keep their hearts and quietly boil a good soup?
Eating its original taste has always been the pursuit of Ah Qian, but the rapidization of the catering industry, the worship of gold, the sluggishness of the chef industry and the situation of no one to succeed him are not able to influence it by himself, whining and mourning~!
PS: If you want to drill deep into cooking, in addition to hard practice, Ah Qian recommends that you read Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Menu", after reading this book, I believe that your understanding of cooking will go to a higher level, Ah Qian and the majority of chef friends to encourage ~ !
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