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Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

author:Lan Hungry Food Notes

In the elegant hall of the Guangzhou restaurant, a plaque of "Drinking and Eating Virtue" handwritten by General Cai Tingkai was once hung. This was an impromptu gift he had come here in 1947 to drink and feast. At the same time, the window of drunk driving impressively takes the four words of "food in Guangzhou" as the call, taking a pun, that is, both eating in Guangzhou City, and eating in the restaurant.

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

General Cai Tingkai inscription

The predecessor of Guangzhou Restaurant was Southwest Restaurant, which was founded in 1936. From the late 1930s to the early 1960s, for almost two decades, regardless of scale or technical strength, the restaurants in Guangzhou were among the best, and they had the title of "the first in Guangzhou".

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

The predecessor of Guangzhou Restaurant is Southwest Restaurant

At that time, this gorgeous garden restaurant, the upper and lower floors can not only place a hundred and twenty-three-circle banquet, but also exquisite dishes, famous chefs. In the 1930s, there was Liang Rui, a provincial and Hong Kong food god-level celebrity chef; in the 1940s, there was Liang Xian, who was made of "World Chef King" (Liang Xian once attended the Panama International Culinary Competition conference in the 1930s and won a gold medal); in the 1950s, there was Wu Luan, the "Wing King"; in the 1960s, there was Huang Rui, the master who created "Moutai Chicken"...

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

A large restaurant in Guangzhou during the Republic of China

In 1956, the sensational Guangzhou Famous Dishes and Beauty Points Expo was also held here, which showed the grandeur of the limelight. Later, the North Garden and Panxi rose one after another, the South Garden also opened and expanded, and the number of first-class restaurants increased. However, the cooking skills of Guangzhou restaurants, rich in traditional local characteristics, novel dishes, and fresh seasons, are still famous brand restaurants in Guangzhou.

Guangzhou restaurants are famous for their three-poultry system. Its famous dishes such as Wenchang chicken, Moutai chicken, oyster king smoked chicken, red cotton plus duck, hundred flowers fried duck palm and Guangzhou roasted whole goose have been unanimously praised by Chinese and foreign gourmets. In particular, the characteristics of the features, the leader of the kui: Wenchang chicken, is the leader of the Cantonese chicken food, and the production method is unique to the peak.

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

Famous Wenchang chicken

Liang Rui, a famous chef in the 1930s, heard that the chickens in Wenchang County on Hainan Island were delicious, and specially organized manpower to go to investigate. After trying, it was found that the fat meat was thick, but the only flaw was that the bones were hard and the taste was not good. So he came up with a way to get the flesh out of the bones.

The method is to soak the slaughtered and washed chicken until it is just cooked, dry it, remove the bones of the meat, and cut it obliquely into a Japanese glyph shape for a total of 24 slices, at the same time, the chicken liver is also soaked and cut into 24 slices, and the ham is cut into 24 slices the size of chicken slices. Then, the three are combined to form a unicorn on a long dish, together with the chicken head, wings, and tip of the chicken to form a chicken shape. After steaming the chicken in a basket, drain the water, arrange the mustard hearts twice, and finally beat the mustard, add sesame oil and lard and pour well on the chicken.

This talent is beautiful in appearance, bright sauce, light and delicious, and the three kinds have different tastes side by side, and have been the top sellers of the restaurant for decades. It is very coincidental that because of its production method, There is Wenchang chicken, and the restaurant is located at the intersection of Wenchang Road, so it is simply named: Wenchang Chicken.

Later, in the late 1970s and 1980s, celebrity chef Huang Rui used the unique aroma of Moutai wine to cook chicken and become another restaurant's main dish. Unfortunately, this famous dish is expensive due to its complicated workmanship, and now Guangzhou restaurants are no longer selling.

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

The Moutai chicken whose scenery disappeared for a while

In the early 1980s, Shu Zizhang, a famous American journalist and international activist, said: "I have been to no less than a hundred countries and eaten an unknown number of novel and delicious dishes, but they are not as good and exquisite as they were eaten at the Guangzhou restaurant tonight." Food in Guangzhou, it is indeed worthy of the name. "Due to the leading position of Guangzhou restaurants, it receives countless foreign guests every year. Several American energy experts also praised after tasting famous dishes such as "Moutai chicken" and "pot sticker sea bass pieces" made here. "Chinese food is famous all over the world, Cantonese cuisine is famous in China, and Western food is also eclipsed in front of Cantonese cuisine." We were very satisfied with what we ate tonight. ”

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

In the 1970s, because the food was at a good price, the customers were weaving

Another major feature of Guangzhou restaurants is that food is relatively affordable and the price is relatively cheap. Chen Ming, the former manager of the store, entered the industry in the early 1930s to work as a miscellaneous worker in Tao Tao Ju, and in 1939, he began to work as a chef in a restaurant in Guangzhou (his person was a veteran of cooking brine kung fu, good at making soy sauce chicken, and was nicknamed Oil Chicken Ming); in 1957, he was promoted to manager. He is familiar with the market situation of the catering industry, has a good operation, and has a way to make money. In the past, large restaurants used seafood and river fresh, and rarely used pond fish. In the 1950s, Chen Ming took advantage of the inexpensive price of fish in the pond to engage in a whole fish feast. A dozen dishes cooked with pond fish, such as "Chicken Balls", "Silver Lake Fish Green Breast", and "Lan Zhi Nian Father Soup", have been created in a row, which are cheap and beautiful, and are very popular with customers.

Later, he used this experience to engage in duck feasts and sheep feasts. At the same time, we are also digging up potential internally and carrying out great innovations. The "chicken three flavors" of the general restaurant cannot be steamed, baked, and soup. But he was ingenious and ingenious, and made a "new chicken three flavors": fried chicken shredded leeks, pot with gizzard liver, stewed berries chicken bones. While using all the scraps to eliminate waste, the price is 30% or 40% cheaper than other restaurants. Therefore, being good at arranging raw materials and being good at making coarse materials makes Guangzhou restaurants have an incomparably strong vitality.

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

Today's magnificent Guangzhou restaurant

Ups and downs: the leader of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou - Guangzhou Restaurant and Wenchang Chicken

Until now, Guangzhou restaurants still maintain their antique color

Guangzhou restaurants have stepped out of history and run to a new era. The newly renovated architectural style is very oriental ethnic color, the entrance courtyard is tall, the courtyard is tall, the kapok is straight, and the banyan shade is like a cover. The newly opened rooftop restaurant, flowers, bonsai show, elegant hall, is indeed a good place to taste tea and drink banquets.

Attached: The practice of Moutai chicken.

Raw material preparation:

Ingredients: a light chicken, weighing about one and a half pounds; shrimp glue three two six dollars, fresh mushrooms three two (twelve grains).

Ingredients: crab yellow five dollars, red shallot head one or two, ginger paste one or two, coriander leaves twenty-four pieces, Moutai wine five dollars, maltose two dollars, short vegetable soft four two, two soup three two, wet horseshoe powder two dollars, mustard soup two two, refined salt, sesame oil, star anise, water, top soup a small amount. Two pounds of peanut oil (fried shallots and chicken, consume two or two).

make:

Wash the light chicken, rinse it in boiling water, remove it and let it dry. Spread the maltose with boiling water over the chicken. Heat the oil to 70% heat, fry the shallots, fry the chicken until golden brown, remove the oil.

The fried shallots are mixed with ginger, Moutai wine (three coins), salt, and star anise, and coated on the chicken in about the usual amount, and the rest is put into the chicken cavity and spread evenly, then steamed for about 20 minutes, and then picked up after cooking.

Knead the shrimp gel into 12 balls on a plate, put in the crab yellow, paste two coriander leaves on each piece, steam for five minutes over a low flame and set aside.

Pour out the various ingredients and juice in the chicken cavity, remove the star anise, put the green onion and ginger on the plate, and lay the chicken chop pieces into a chicken shape.

Stir-fry the vegetables softly, splash one or two soups, stir-fry and drain the water for later. Then, the fresh mushrooms are boiled in two soups and then fished out; the oil is dropped, the wine is splashed, the fresh mushrooms are added, the soup is added, the soy sauce is beaten with wet horseshoe powder, the sesame oil is under the sesame oil, and the tail oil is fried evenly.

The soft vegetables are accompanied by the sides and tails of the chicken, and the shrimp balls and fresh mushrooms are arranged on the soft vegetables and cut into a "peacock open screen" type.

Pick up the wok oil, top the soup, beat the mustard with wet horseshoe powder, add sesame oil, and pour the tail oil on the shrimp balls. Immediately boil the original juice and Moutai wine (two dollars), and use wet horseshoe powder to push the glazed mustard on the chicken body.

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