laitimes

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

author:Little Yang's life tavern

As a master of Chinese cuisine, Lao Zhu is not idle after retirement.

The world's only love and food can not be disappointed. Every day, Lao Zhu carefully cooks a series of hearty dishes for his daughters.

Traditional plum button meat, Jiangsu cuisine squirrel fish, Dongpo meat, classic chicken stew in Cantonese cuisine, crab powder cage, hot double crisp in Sichuan cuisine...

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine
From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

At the beginning of the movie "Eating Men and Women", there is the taste of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", and the cuisine of Tiannanhaibei is presented one by one under Lao Zhu's skillful technique, and the fragrance seems to float out of the screen, making people salivate.

There are many kinds of Chinese cuisine, delicious delicacies, countless dishes, including Sichuan, Cantonese, Su, Fujian, Zhejiang, Xiang, Hui, Lu and many other cuisines.

The so-called "the world is divided by mountains and rivers, there is a difference in sound; born of the land, there is a difference in diet." Relying on mountains to eat mountains, relying on water to draft water, so different cuisines have emerged.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

The major vegetable patches are usually only popular in the local area, and if you want to taste the food of the local area in one place, it is Shanghai.

Originally, the popular dishes in other places in Shanghai were collectively referred to as Waibang cuisine.

This so-called "gang" is not a gang underworld. Similar to the Shang gang formed after the development of the urban economy, the vegetable gang is a combination of professional guilds, which has a long history and has appeared in the cities of the Song Dynasty. This kind of business gang operating in the city often has a very distinct regional nature.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

Caibang can be said to be the product of the socio-economic changes since the opening of Shanghai. Before the opening of Shanghai, the population was only more than half a million, and after the opening of the port, the population from all over the country poured into Shanghai in large numbers, representing different flavors of vegetable gangs in various places, and they attached themselves to different business gangs to enter Shanghai for development.

The first foreign cuisine that entered Shanghai with the Shang gang was Hui cuisine.

Huibang merchants are all over the world, and since ancient times, there has been a saying that "no emblem is no town". As early as before the opening of the port, Huishang merchants were already active in Shanghai, and Hu Xueyan, the "red-top businessman" who was rumored to be a good story, was one of the Huishang merchants, and they had an important impact on Shanghai's economic development.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

The influx of Hui merchants has made Hui cuisine all over the beach, and almost every street can see one or two Hui restaurants. At that time, the popular bullet phrase "Yangchang Recipe Opening" in Shanghai Bookstore said: "The best thing is Hongyun, braised noodles three fresh to eat Jubin." Jule, Dingxin and its essence, drunken white garden opened in the small east gate. "It's about the Huibang restaurant that was popular in Shanghai at that time.

Huibang cuisine is good at stewing, heavy oil and color, mellow and strong flavor, and can maintain the original taste, such as ham stewed turtle, braised chicken, simmered sea cucumber and so on. There is also no shortage of stir-frying, such as stir-fried eel back, stir-fried paddling and so on.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

Subsequently, local merchant gangs have advanced into Shanghai, each vegetable gang in Shanghai beach showed a hundred flowers in the situation, in order to highlight their own characteristics and local flavor, often in the store signs to add the word "authentic" to attract different business gangs living in Shanghai with customers.

Inside the store, the hall of the running hall put a white towel on his shoulder, stood outside the door with a smile and greeted, and welcomed the guests to the seat, all of which were rural sounds. The Tang Ofan of Yongbang Zhuangyuan Building is a "allah" Ningbo person, the Subang Restaurant Tangqiao speaks Wu Nong soft language, and the Huibang Restaurant Tangqiao speaks Hui tone. If you go to a certain restaurant and don't know its local tone, you will suffer cold reception and white eyes.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

After a period of operation, the various vegetable gangs found that the narrow concept of geography was very unfavorable to expanding the business, so they began to learn from each other and imitate each other, and made new dishes suitable for more Shanghainese tastes.

One of the most representative examples is the Meilong Town Restaurant. The name of the shop is taken from the Beijing Opera's "Dragon Play Phoenix", which originally had only one façade on Weihai Road, serving a dish broth bao Weiyang snack. Weiyang flavor of Yangbang cuisine, finely made, sweet and salty moderately heavy taste, good at stewing and simmering is its specialty.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

Later, meilong town restaurant from Yang into Sichuan, Sichuan cuisine pays attention to seven flavors, heavy spicy, and Huaiyang flavor is completely out of tune, and one in the head of the Yangtze River, one at the end of the Yangtze River, each doing its own thing, but the two dishes with unique flavors are combined in Shanghai, and a new "Haipai cuisine" was born. Among them, representative Haipai dishes include stir-fried shrimp, raw fried eel back, squirrel cinnamon fish, lion's head boiled dried shredded and so on.

Nowadays, what most Shanghainese call "honbang cuisine" is actually another name for "Haipai cuisine", and the local dishes that are really heavy in oil and sauce have been diluted.

From "Eating Men and Women", we can see the past and present lives of Haipai cuisine

The rise and fall of different gangs of Haipai cuisine is the trajectory of "foreigners" in Shanghai from survival to landing. The development and formation of Haipai cuisine carries the past memory of the development of Shanghai so far, and reflects the inclusive vitality of Haipai culture.

Read on