Tangchang tofu milk "long taste"

□ so sensitive

Before the Republic of China, Shuzhong Dayi had the order of "one new (new field) two Tang (Tangchang) three irrigation mouths", of which Tangchang Town ranked second among more than 30 towns due to the lively prosperity of the city, and was famous for producing delicate and slagd tofu milk inside and outside Sichuan.

In the past, the Sichuan people called tofu milk "mud tofu" or "mud ash dumpling", which means that it is soft and tender like white mud, and as delicious as Shuzhong fragrant rice. At that time, all the old people in Sichuan who were seventy or eighty years old were accustomed to this folk name "calling" it. Later, the workshop brewer felt that it was indecent to call mud tofu, so he removed the "mud" word in front of the tofu and added a "milk" word after the tofu, which had a new name of "tofu milk" full of style. The production of tofu milk in Tangchang has a long history and a long history. As early as the Ming Dynasty, there was a tradition in Tangchang Village to brew tofu milk in their own workshops. At the same time, the Tang site is located on the banks of the Dayi Xiejiang River, so it naturally forms a water and land wharf and a distribution center for agricultural and sideline products in Tangchang. At that time, the especially economically minded Huguang people loved to run business in Dayi, and were attracted by Tangchang's good trade land and golden port, not only established the Huguang Guild Hall here, but also lost the opportunity to purchase Tangchang tofu milk and return to their hometown to sell it for money. Over time, Tangchang tofu milk has become more and more famous and has become the favorite "next meal" for Chinese people.

The relevant information of Dayi shows that the brewing of Tangchang tofu milk is closely related to this water and soil. Tangchang is located in the subtropical monsoon climate zone, the climate is mild and humid, the precipitation is abundant, there is no severe heat in summer, no severe cold in winter, the four seasons are distinct, the temperature difference between perennial temperature and day and night is small, and the humidity is large. This regional environment is particularly suitable for the growth of microorganisms in the cellar. The water quality of Ziyin Tangchang is weakly alkaline, which can convert the non-water-soluble proteins in soybeans into water-soluble proteins. It is this regional environment that is conducive to the deep refining of tofu milk, thus forming a unique flavor of Tangchang tofu milk.

The brewing method is to first screen the soybeans to remove impurities, soak for about 10 hours for refining, take out the okara and then point the pulp, wrap and squeeze evenly, and make a tofu blank. The tofu blank is then cut into pieces and sent to an environment with an appropriate temperature to ferment and implant mold. Then add a small amount of salt and spices to the drained tofu blank, put it in the pool and seal it for 8 months, open the pool once, squeeze out the osmotic juice, and seal and ferment again for 4 months before it can be packaged and shipped.

Legend has it that during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, there was a Taiwanese adult in Chengdu Who suddenly fell ill with malaria, did not think about tea and rice, and occasionally tasted the tofu milk given by the master of the house, and suddenly felt the aroma and appetite increased greatly. He asked, it was brewed by the Liu clan of Dayi Tangchang. Thereafter, the table must be eaten at every meal. Guests arrive, the station is treated with products, and all the guests give wonderful praise and compete for fame. It has been spread for a long time, and there are many people who buy food.

During the Republic of China, the scope of tofu milk sold in Tangchang became more and more extensive. According to the "Dayi County Chronicle", in the fifth year of the Republic of China, Tangchang tofu milk was respected by merchants and was transported to various parts of Chuankang for sale. Fifteen years after the Republic of China, production gradually expanded, because Tangchang tofu milk is famous inside and outside Sichuan, trafficking is increasing, Tangchang tofu milk is not only shipped to Chengdu, Renshou, Jianyang, Chongqing and other places, but also along with the rice, oil, salt, cloth horse gang, porters along the tea horse road to Xiaojin, Wenchuan, Lixian, Ya'an, Hanyuan, Xichang, Tianquan, Luding and other places.

After liberation, the tangchang tofu milk brewing culture has been well inherited. In the 1980s, the state-owned brewery in Dayi County and the Tangchang Tofu Milk Factory produced Tangchang tofu milk. In the planned economy period, it is very difficult to buy this product, and it is necessary to purchase tickets according to the plan.