Shanghang Net today
At the end of the year, the humidity is still good. With the completion of this batch of turnips in the year, the production of dried radishes enters the final stage.
"A family opens an altar, ten miles to smell incense." With this taste, the soul returns to its hometown. "This Song of Western Fujian points out the unique flavor and spiritual status of Shangshang Dried Radish. As one of the "Eight Great Stems" of western Fujian, it enjoys a high reputation and is the lingering tongue-tip memory of the children of the Hakka family in Shanghang for hundreds of years. The "Shanghang County Chronicle" contains: "Shanghang dried radish, as early as the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, enjoyed a high reputation, dating back to more than 500 years ... History records that it is 'best-selling in Fujian and Guangdong'. "After the introduction of modern production technology, in order to adapt to the modern sense of population, the people of Shanghang began to try to improve the taste. Recently, the reporter came to Shanghang and embarked on a taste-seeking journey of dried radish in Shanghang.
Authentic radish, passing on the craft from the ancient method
Overlooking the shanghang district, the Tingjiang River turns out an "s" shaped bend in lincheng town, giving fertile alluvial plains to coastal farmers.
"The sandy loam soil of the river beach is thick and loose, which is especially suitable for the growth of radish, and the turnips produced are tender and sweet." Liu Fuxi, director of the county economic station, said, "To do a good job in Shanghang dried radish, the production area of raw materials is an important factor, and Shanghang has geographical advantages. In terms of seed selection, Liu Fuxi said that since ancient times, Shanghang dried radish has been made of special "Ninghua seeds", and the meat of Ninghua radish is sweet and crisp, which determines the tender and crisp taste of the dried radish skin. "I have also tried to introduce seeds from other provinces, but the effect is not as good as 'Ninghua seeds'." He said.
Lincheng Town Tupu Village is located on this alluvial plain, which is the representative area of Shanghang for making dried radish. In winter, large pieces of turnips are dried on bamboo racks at the mouth of the village. It is understood that it only takes three days of sun exposure to dehydrate and form, and the whole body appears golden.
"In other places, dried radish is dried first and then pickled, while we are first pickled and then dried, so that dried radish is more flavorful." Liu Wenrong, head of the Hangfeng Vegetable Professional Cooperative, said that following the ancient law, four or five kilograms of fresh radish can make one kilogram of dried radish.
In order to ensure sufficient supply of raw materials, Liu Wenrong adopted the "cooperative + farmer" model, signed purchase agreements with more than 140 growers, and implemented high-yield, high-quality, high-quality, efficient green pollution-free standardized cultivation technology.
Que Shikun, deputy director of the county agricultural bureau, said that in recent years, Shanghang County has increased its support for the main body of radish planting. Taking Hangfeng Vegetable Professional Cooperative as an example, nearly 3 million yuan of support funds were given around the construction of base infrastructure, brand building, agricultural industrialization, "five new" technology demonstration and other aspects.
"With the help of funds and technology, we have built 80 acres of standardized steel frame facilities greenhouses and supporting water and fertilizer integration, and also established a special freezer, which has greatly improved its ability to resist risks." Liu Wenrong said that in 2015, the cooperative's planting base was also rated as a provincial-level urban non-staple food (vegetable) base. In 2016, the cooperative also led the surrounding farmers to set up a "Ninghua Seed" cultivation base to avoid the inconvenience of introducing seeds from Ninghua last year.
It is understood that the planting area of radish in Shanghang County is stable at about 22,000 mu today, and the annual output is more than 34,000 tons. The county can produce and process 1,000 tons of dried radish throughout the year, with an output value of more than 20 million yuan.
Exquisite snacks, spreading the "taste of Shanghang" in the blue sky
In the past, every household in Shanghang would prepare dried radish. According to the "Shanghang County Chronicle", in the early days of the Republic of China, the annual output of dried radish in Shanghang reached about 100 tons.
In order to create local characteristic agricultural products, in 1996, Shanghang County listed Shanghang dried radish as one of the seven pillar industries of agriculture during the "Ninth Five-Year Plan" period, and guided non-governmental forces to establish Shanghang County Zijin Dried Radish Factory, Tingjiang Vegetable Processing Factory, JiaoyangFeng Agricultural Food Factory, Lincheng Minrong Food Factory, Lincheng Fruit and Vegetable Processing Factory and other enterprises, trying mass production and external large-scale sales.
"Due to the complex production process and high cost of dried radish in Shanghang, it has affected its market competition and expansion in the outside world. Moreover, dried radish has long been regarded as a side dish, and it is difficult to have a qualitative breakthrough in market demand. Que Shikun said frankly that many processing enterprises are declining day by day, and the main position of making dried radish was once relegated to a family workshop.
Liu Wenrong, who has been dealing with dried radish for more than 30 years, does not believe in evil, and in 2016 he established Hangfeng Food Co., Ltd.
Walking into the company's production workshop, hundreds of large vats are neatly arranged, and dried radish is stored in it. "It must be stored for a year before it is formally processed to release the excellent taste." Liu Wenrong said.
Pickling, drying and hiding are all carried out according to traditional processes, and the processes that follow are carried out with the help of modern equipment. On the processing line, seven or eight workers are skillfully operating automatic or semi-automated production equipment such as slicers, packaging machines, and disinfection machines. "The company has invested more than 4 million yuan to purchase machines and train workers." Liu Wenrong said with a smile that this is a big money for a small business such as dried turnips, but it paved the way for the subsequent Xiamen Airlines contract.
"In 2016, after Xiamen Airlines came to visit the company, it decided to officially sign a contract with us. We produce 15 grams of Shanghang Luo Bugan small packaging series products, which officially become Xiamen Airlines small dish food! Liu Wenrong said, "A small bag of dried radish flew into the blue sky and was sent to the tip of the tongue of travelers across the country and even the world." ”
He is also proud of feedback from partners, "Shanghang dried radish has been repeatedly praised by tourists." Last year, a new agreement was signed, and the cooperation period was extended from two years to three years. Today, the cooperative supplies nearly 20 million packages of dried radishes to Xiamen Airlines every year, mainly supplying Xiamen Airlines passenger aircraft parked at Fuzhou, Xiamen, Jinjiang and Tianjin airports.
Traditional dried shanghang radish is pickled and slightly salty in taste. Therefore, we have specially added a desalination process to reduce salinity and make it healthier. Liu Wenrong revealed the mystery of winning to reporters.
In addition, Liu Wenrong also registered two trademarks of "Hangfeng Brand" and "Eleven Pu", relying on e-commerce platforms such as Xinhang Mall and Longyan Greentown Trade to expand sales channels.
Now, Hangfeng Food Co., Ltd. has developed into a leading enterprise in the production of dried radish in Shanghang, with 12 series of products such as aviation food side dishes, and the annual production and sales of dried radish reach 500 tons.
The protagonist of the feast, conquering the taste buds on the modern table
"In the past, I only needed to check the pesticide residues, colonies and other food safety indicators of dried radish, and now I also have to check the taste of salinity and spiciness." Lai Ronglan is a inspector at Hangfeng Food Co., Ltd., and her workload has increased, but she is happy to see these changes.
"Originally, there was only one flavor of dried radish, but later we developed different flavors such as original flavor and spicy flavor to meet the needs of consumer groups everywhere." For example, the spicy series sells very well in Jiangxi. Liu Wenrong said.
For the people of Shanghang, the sale of small bags is not satisfied. They also plotted to make it into a big dish and bring it to the table.
Chen Wen, general manager of Tianfu Villa, has been exploring the creation of "Shanghang Radish Dried Feast" since he founded the farm in 2011.
"To make an authentic banquet, the first choice of local specialty ingredients, Shanghang dried radish is not to be let go." Chen Wen said, "In the past, dried radish was a small dish even if it was put on the table. For it to be the protagonist of the feast, it must stimulate stronger vitality. ”
In the exploration, Chen Wen found that shanghang dried radish is very malleable in the use of ingredients and can be compatible with various ingredients. Therefore, his team integrated other Hakka ingredients and developed specialties such as dried radish beef soup, dried radish ball soup, locust pork stewed dried radish, dried radish stir-fried duck fillet and so on.
Food has always been inseparable from culture, and there are many stories of dried radish in Shanghang since ancient times. Chen Wen collected materials extensively and compiled a number of moving food stories on the basis of his predecessors. "The Shanghang dried radish feast connects the stories of young people's courtship and marriage proposal, and there is a story behind each dish name." Chen Wen said.
Last year, the "Shanghang Dried Radish Feast" of Tianfu Villa in Shanghang was included in the "Theme Banquet of Chinese Regional Cuisine". "Many people come to the table and ask for a feast of dried radish." Chen Wen said, "Shanghang dried radish has evolved from a home-cooked side dish to a hometown feast that carries the memories of hakka and conveys family affection. ”
Over the past few years, Shanghang has continued to exert efforts in brand building and communication, and promoted Dried Turnips in Shanghang. In 2015, "Shanghang dried radish" officially became a national geographical indication certification trademark. "In the next step, Shanghang County will be guided by market demand, guide the development of dried radish in the direction of diversification, and continue to tap the potential and continue to build a characteristic brand." Que Shikun said.
Source: Minxi News Network