Floating like a cloud in the city's food street, I was lured into a Wang Ji soba pancake shop by the strong aroma of soba pancakes. In the more than 10-square-meter shop, in the workshop separated by glass, three women are singing the scene of freshly made soba pancakes. Xu Niang's half-old woman, with a warm smile on her eyebrows, is not in a hurry, the cashier is looking for silver, and the hand breeze is quick to wrap the dishes ordered by the guests with soba pancake rolls, put them into paper food bags, and hand them to the guests with both hands. The indigenous dishes of sautéed shredded potatoes, lean meat, green pepper shredded, red pepper shredded, native eggs, green shoots, cold mixed beans, shredded white radish, and shredded carrots are lined up on either side of her. Two women in their fifties and nearly confused, wearing white hats and black bibs on their chests, holding a spoonful of water in one hand, slowly pulling the water line into the basin of gray and soba noodles, and stirring circles in the basin with chopsticks in the other. In the blink of an eye, I saw them change their grandmother and mother in the kitchen kiln of the dark slipway 50 years ago.
My hometown, a sycamore leaf on the mound. The land is brown and dry, the yellow cotton soil is fertile, what is planted, what is not planted, and the fierce wild flowers and wild grains occupy a magnificent family. Of course, if it were not fertile, more than two thousand years ago, the Zhou people who stayed in Yuzhi (present-day Qingcheng County), carrying eight large sedans, would not have come to the yuan district to open up the territory and expand the territory, so that the yuan district could shine the dawn of human agricultural civilization. Half a century ago, the rice of the peasant family on the sycamore leaf was coincidentally reversed from today's, with autumn noodle vegetables as the staple food and wheat noodles as the tooth sacrifice. The family has eaten autumn grain noodle vegetable rice without soba noodles for three or five days, and my grandmother and mother have a soba pancake to change the appetite of the family and improve the family's life. Buckwheat cool taste slightly bitter, spread pancakes, rolled noodles, hard in the wind, if you eat as a staple food, eat every day, stomach swelling stomach discomfort in the disease is difficult to escape. At that time, my family and I almost dreamed night and night, but we never had a dream of soba pancakes turning into Qingyang-style cuisine.
Gray buckwheat pancakes, rolled on home-cooked vegetables on hot days, pickled vegetables on farmers on cold days, grandfather had never eaten a pot of dry smoke, and two rolls of buckwheat pancakes fell into my sister's stomach and me. Every time, when I was over 10 years old and my sister who was less than 8 years old, I ate the corners of my mouth and pulled the strings, and my cheeks bulged like the third uncle's "Zhuge Liang Hanging Filial Piety" song when he was over the white thing. The skinny grandfather with the dry smoke pot in his mouth sitting on the kangtou smiled and admired the indecent eating of the two hungry cat granddaughters. On the next meal, I closed the drip of oily vegetables and ate sorghum, rice jade, and millet noodle rice, and there was a problem with my grandfather's stomach, and my helpless grandfather, in accordance with the doctor's advice, avoid eating soba noodle pancakes that are colder than corn, sorghum, and millet noodles, and drink the wheat noodle batter soup that his grandmother cooked for him after the family had eaten buckwheat pancakes.
My grandmother taught me to spread soba pancakes when I was 15 years old. Catch the spoon melon hedge, scoop the soba noodles from the crock pot to pour the basin, according to the noodles two water ratio, one hand chopsticks, the other hand to hold the cold water melon hedge, while slowly pouring water into the basin, while using chopsticks to stir like a stirring dough, when the chopsticks are pulled away from the basin, the chopsticks pull the long gluten-like noodle line for the batter to stir the batter. If the batter is thin, stir and look at it while sprinkling the noodles with your hands. If the batter is thick, slowly add water to it while stirring. The batter is combined into eggs, plus one or two; there is wheat noodles, add one or two, also while adding and stirring. Egg wheat noodles are not available, but do not add. Soba pancakes with eggs are soft and fragrant, and those with wheat noodles are tightly glued, and there are buckwheat and wheat aromas in the mouth. Sexually anxious people can't eat good pancakes. Stirring the batter is the key to spreading pancakes, and it must be stirred clockwise and counterclockwise. So stir for many rounds, the pancakes are spread out, thin and even, and delicious to eat.
Spread the pan of soba pancakes, the best pot, and count the flat-bottomed thick iron pots. There is no one at home, and the black pointed bottom thick iron pot can also be used. Heat the iron pot with wheat grass without burning your hands, pinch the oil rag and dip it in the clear oil, and evenly coat the bottom of the pot with a clear oil circle of about one foot in diameter. Heat the wheat straw at the bottom of the pot, avoiding the surrounding area of the clear oil circle heart. An iron spoonful of batter and a pancake spread. When the iron pot is hot, hold an iron spoon of rice, scoop flat an iron spoon of batter, slowly slip the batter from the round edge of the iron pot to the center of the circle, fill the whole circle, and cover the pot lid. When the hot air in the pot rushes out from the edge of the pot, remove the lid, gently insert the bottom of the cake from the side of the pan with a spatula in one hand, extend five fingers with the other hand to hold the cake surface, gently rotate the cake three or five times, and then turn it over, cover the pot lid and burn it. Burn for about three minutes and the cake will come out of the pan. A soba pancake full of soba noodles with a fragrant aroma and a whole gray luster can be eaten hot with wrapped vegetables.
The pancakes at the wheat noodle stall are better than those eaten in the middle of soba noodles, and the stomach is also quiet. However, in the peasant families in the people's commune years when food was scarce, the lack of wheat noodles seemed to meet the annual bread, and the wheat accounted for only 10% of the rations that the family received from the production team and the family population in a year. Wheat milled noodles, kept for the New Year's Festival tooth festival, the family came to eat a meal or two, that can be the same as the current time when you want to eat when you want to eat. If there are babies in the family who owe milk to eat, sick and weak people, wheat noodles can only be sprinkled with paste soup to supplement nutrition.
In the fields of the production team, the buckwheat with wide flowers and dense flowers and white snow, buckwheat in the autumn grain family, belongs to the coarse grain, but the pancakes of the stall are delicious, especially the most famous in huanxian people's stalls. I have consulted my grandfather, who read a lot of hemp paper books, why is the pancakes at the soba stall more delicious than the rolled noodles? The gist of my grandfather's reply was that due to the essence and aura of soba noodles, they were activated by a hot iron pot in the stall, and it was natural to chew in the mouth than to eat soba noodles.
When the package was delivered to the household, the farmer ate the wheat noodle steamed bread noodle slices that he had dreamed of, and while eating, he became greasy and missed the good of the soba pancakes. Helplessly, the yield can not catch up with the wheat buckwheat, the sycamore leaves on the mound, the farmer who insists on planting is as sparse as the bright moon and the night star, and the buckwheat to gold is like the wheat of the past. People are so paradoxical, they do not cherish the dishes they eat frequently, and even eat raw annoyances, once they have eaten a greasy and annoying meal for many years, they will no longer eat it, but they will miss it well. The distance is delicious too!
I stood in the small shop, and finally did not get harassed by hungry insects, despite the pain of eating the stomach and intestines of the soba noodle pancake roll wrapped in pickles, I asked Zhang Fu out of a flat-bottomed thick iron pot with liquefied gas fire stall wrapped in fried meat shredded soba pancakes. It was slightly scorched yellow in the skin, and in the pinch of his hands, he took a bite, and the fragrant fragrance filled his mouth, and he was amazed.
On the sycamore leaf-like mounds, the soba pancakes from the coarse grains are not enough years of the townspeople to change the appetite of the rice, the butterfly change people once again change the appetite of the rice, is undoubtedly a microcosm of the new China that has smoothed the bumps along the way. And its future fills me with endless reverie.
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