Frying heap, also known as hemp balls, hemp balls, it is made of glutinous rice flour with sugar, coconut, sesame seeds, etc., put into the pot and fried in oil. Earlier, fried heaps were a necessity for the New Year's Festival. "Frying piles, gold and silver full of houses" is widely circulated, indicating the good intentions of "happy and prosperous".
Lianjiang fried pile is the most famous in Hengshan Town, and it is full of color, fragrance and type. There are dozens of fried heap shops in Hengshan Town, among which the fried heap located at the baoge stall on Jianshe Road in Hengshan Town has captured the hearts of many diners, and the customers who come to help are endless. Its Yokoyama pan-fried pile is loved by everyone, and the secret behind it, in addition to exquisite craftsmanship, is also the feeling of traditional craftsmanship.
The children grasp the fried pile with their hands and take a mouthful of incense.
The small workshop hides the old brand
Before getting off the bus, there was a burst of sesame aroma in the distance, only to see that there were many diners around the table outside the store, and a golden fried pile was surrounded by it, and Chen Kangbao's wife was greeting warmly. The workshop is just inside the house, and on the table are pots of fillings made of shredded coconut, black sesame seeds and sugar, and Chen Kangbao and his father Chen Qin are expertly making glutinous rice flour skins.
Press the dough into a pie shape
"A pound of glutinous rice flour should be accompanied by four or two white sugars, which is not light or greasy." The 60-year-old Chen Qin has been making fried heaps for more than 30 years, and his craftsmanship can reach the point of pure fire, taking advantage of the steaming heat, Chen Qin reconciled the dough three or two times.
Wrap the filling and roll in circles
"The most difficult thing to make a frying pile is to close the mouth, this mouth is well received, and the fried pile is round and round." Chen Kangbao took a small piece of dough and kneaded it into a thin semi-round bowl shape to show the author. Only to see his right hand slowly pinch thin, the left hand of the tiger mouth gradually shrink to make the dough mouth into a hole, and then quickly pinch the mouth, the frying pile blank solid, within a few seconds a round and slippery frying pile will be formed. "If you squeeze too hard, it will be very thin, and you must be evenly fried throughout the pile." When the dough sticks to his hands, he also uses a little glutinous rice flour as hand flour, which is skillful.
Within an hour, a frying heap was kneaded and the sesame seeds were rolled. "Rolling sesame seeds is also skillful, soaking the sesame seeds softly, and sprinkling some water before rolling the sesame seeds, so that the sesame seeds are full."
Fill with shredded coconut, black sesame seeds and sugar
The oil pan on the side was already boiling, and with a "whoosh" sound, the white fat frying pile put down the pan, and the oil flowers were everywhere. If you want to make an authentic Yokoyama fried heap, the key is to look at the process of frying. Chen Kangbao, who is on the edge of the pan, holds the chopsticks and flips in the oil pan, and constantly uses the bottom of the sieve to gently press and circle on the frying pile, turning while frying, so that it is consistent in thickness and heated evenly.
Fry the heap along the edge of the pan
The children sat around and marveled, witnessing the frying pile slowly expanding and becoming rounder at this moment, the more "Lu" the bigger, the color also changed from white to light yellow, dark yellow, golden yellow. The mellow peanut oil slowly dips the frying pile until golden brown, and the smell of incense fills the outside along the wind. The frying pile that kept tumbling in the hot oil slowly expanded, and the frying pile that originally sank at the bottom of the pan slowly revealed its face and floated on the surface of the frying pan, and the frying pile gradually turned golden yellow and emitted a seductive fragrance. Gently scoop it up with a sieve, shake it off and put it in a dustpan.
The aroma of freshly panned hot fried heaps is overflowing
The freshly panned Yokoyama pan-fried heap is sticky and delicious, and the glutinous rice on the skin has already hugged the sesame seeds tightly and overflowed with sweet aroma. Biting open slightly, the teeth leave a "mark" on the frying pile, and the sweet filling increases the layering of the taste, soft and tough, the lips and teeth are fragrant, and the aftertaste is endless.
Yokoyama Pan-fried heap is golden in color, round and full, crispy and thin in skin
Exquisite skills have been passed down from two generations
Since 1984 began to sell fried heaps, so far more than 30 years, Chen Qin said that customers are long, often busy, up to a day to sell nearly 5,000 frying piles, by selling fried heaps to feed the family. Perhaps like most "family businesses", Chen Kangbao still has a little resistance to inheriting his father's business. Since he was a child, he was called by his father to help in the workshop, and his major in college was not comparable to that of fried piles. At the beginning, with his own job, he did not want his son to inherit his father's business. As he grew older, Chen Kangbao had a new understanding of inheriting handicrafts, and tongdi also regarded his father as his "idol".
The fried heap contains many beautiful meanings
Chen Qin will let the family supervise every process and never let go of any detail. Now, Chen Qin brings his son to make fried heaps, and 30-year-old Chen Kangbao is the inheritor of "Baoge Fried Heaps", although he is young, his craftsmanship has been passed down from his father. Chen Qin said that this craft should be passed on from generation to generation. The son and daughter-in-law are now helping out in the frying stalls.
Fried and sold now, the supply exceeds demand
Nowadays, Yokoyama fried heap has become a favorite delicacy of people, and many stalls that specialize in selling fried heaps have emerged. According to incomplete statistics, there are no less than thirty stalls operating in the local area of Hengshan frying pile. Sales usually reach tens of thousands of units per day, and tens of thousands on polder days and holidays. Aunt Chen especially likes to eat Hengshan fried heap, "When I was young, I heard my grandfather say that Hengshan's fried heap is very famous, and it has a history of hundreds of years. "The exquisite skills passed down from generation to generation, the good quality of excellence have been favored by more and more repeat customers, and in recent years, many orders have been received, and sales are getting better and better every year." In addition to bringing some dry food to many migrant workers, Yokoyama fried pile has gradually become the first choice for gift-giving. The foreign tourists who have eaten the Hengshan fried pile all raise their thumbs and praise.
The list of customers is endless
Perseverance does not mean that it is static, and Chen Qin's father and son have also tried to innovate in the process, adding a frying heap with bean paste lotus and glutinous rice chicken as fillings. In the past, when making fried heaps, there would be a phenomenon of "walking filling", but he later avoided this situation through some small tricks, and the appearance was more beautiful.
"Fried heap, gold and silver full of houses", people like the crisp and delicious taste of Yokoyama pan-fried heap, like its round and slippery shape, golden color. Yokoyama Pandui is a traditional delicacy and a cultural heritage.
【Written by】 Liao Weiying
【Photo】 Guo Longbi
【Author】
【Source】 Southern Press Media Group South + client
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