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Bean blossom steamed bun or called bean blossom bubble, is derived from Fengxiang's one-flavor snack, for many foreign friends, not only may not have heard of, but also will be quite surprised - how to soak bean blossom steamed
Xi'an's lamb bubble is famous and mouth-watering, so in the logic of most people's lives, it is understandable to use lamb broth to soak steamed buns, but it is really surprising to pull bean blossoms and pot helmets (steamed buns) together.
In the 1990s, the bean blossom steamed bun broke through the Fengxiang mainland and spread to several neighboring counties, and is currently popular in the urban areas of Fengxiang, Qishan, Qianyang and Baoji in GuanzhongXifu, which is a smaller regional local cuisine, but is highly favored by the people here. It can be said that for some Baoji people, just like Beijing people like to eat fritters for breakfast, Henan people like to eat peppery soup, Wuhan people love to eat hot dry noodles, and Guangdong people are used to drinking morning tea, so that they cannot be abandoned.
As a breakfast, bean blossom steamed bun has many benefits: vegetarian, flavorful, warm, these many benefits are known to the locals: chàn live! It means extremely comfortable.
Whether it is a county town or a township, or a city in Baoji, the life of Xifu people is not hurried, slightly ancient. Every time I go to Baoji, it seems that it is most natural to take bean blossom steamed buns for breakfast. In its birthplace of Fengxiang, the small shop of bean blossom bubble bun is more concentrated, every time I go, I live near the East Lake, the hotel does not have to include breakfast, a few steps out, is a large and small bean blossom steamed bun restaurant.
East Lake is a scene of Fengxiang, which has a prototype in the zhoushi and is called "drinking phoenix pond". During the Northern Song Dynasty, Su Shi served as Fengxiang Tongjue, changed to dredging, planted willows and lotuses, and built pavilions and pavilions, which were renamed "East Lake" because they were at the east gate of Chengguo. It is said that during his term of office, Su Dongpo once tasted the local bean blossom steamed buns, and was surprised by its taste, appreciated it, so he used the local saying: "East Lake Willow, girl's hand, golden jade qiong pulp is difficult to give up, wonderful scenery, clever people, good taste, is really three must also!" Su Shi replaced the "Xifeng wine" in the folk proverb with "jinyu qiong pulp", which became the image metaphor of bean blossom steamed buns, in which "gold" refers to yellow steamed buns, "jade" refers to bean blossoms, and "qiong pulp" is the reputation of soybean milk. Whether this praise is from Su Shi's mouth, of course, cannot be verified, but this concise few words are the visual aesthetics and original form of bean blossom steamed buns. In the past ten years, with the improvement of material life and the improvement of regional differences, bean blossom steamed buns have changed their old appearance, and the colors and condiments have become more diverse.
Once, a friend who was quite good at food suggested that he should take us to eat authentic bean blossom steamed buns. Early in the morning, when it was early in the morning, we walked along the alley that was quite meaningful, and after a few bends, we arrived at a family, which was not a shop, just a stall. The door was opened in the frontage compartment, the space was extremely small, and the customers were full of doors, but most of them could only sit on the side of the road, small tables, small stools, and large bowls and thick basins. The main family was busy, and he couldn't look at people squarely, reported three bowls, and quickly put them on the table, bringing a small bowl of soy milk. To say that it is authentic, it is that the steamed bun maintains the most simple traditional appearance, almost no ingredients, only put some salt into it, the soup is very white, slightly yellow, with a flat spoon to the bean flower, smooth as gelatin, soft and lovely, a faint bean fragrance from between the teeth and the nose. This kind of plain bean blossom, because of the single flavor, does not cover the clear taste of the beans themselves, so it must be tasted slowly, but to be honest, for young people who have adapted to many taste stimuli, the old bean blossom steamed bun may be a little tasteless.
Judging the quality of bean blossom steamed bun naturally lies in the bean blossom first. In the minds of children, the name "Bean Blossom" is beautiful and magical. "Flower" is the name of many beautiful things in Guanzhong, such as "face flower", "tie flower", "twist flower", etc., and so on. On the dexterous fingers of the townspeople, these "flowers" are actually a kind of external release of their "heart flowers". Bean blossom is a kind of food between tofu brain and tofu, from the experience handed down from generation to generation, beans can be made into different kinds of soft and hard food, the old tofu in the Guanzhong area, the hard one can even be directly hung on the scale, soft tofu brain, but like the clouds in the sky, the dew on the lotus leaves.
Good food is often associated with a good heart. In order to express this mentality, farmers often work tirelessly.
Choosing beans is a quantitative work, but farmers have their own way, pouring the right amount of soybeans into the dustpan, shaking slightly, stroking with their hands, round and full of particles will naturally cross the horizontal willow, jump down with joy, moldy, thin, wrinkled and even broken soybeans, will be stopped by willow branches. The preferred soybeans should be washed several times in water, soaked for about six or seven hours, and then stone-ground after they are drafted. Of course, the use of stone grinding to grind beans has now been replaced by machines, and although the efficiency has increased, the delicate handmade taste has also faded. The beaten soy milk needs to be filtered with gauze, the dregs and the pulp juice are separated, and then the pulp is boiled over medium heat, during which the pulp juice should be continuously stirred to prevent sedimentation in the paste pot until it boils, and the cooked pulp should be slightly cooled down to 90 ° C. The next step is the most critical step – point brine. When I was a child, I used to watch this magical change in my uncle's tofu shop, and I felt that my uncle, who was usually bland, suddenly seemed to have become a magician, and the pulp gradually closed and thickened under the stimulation of brine, becoming a paste, and the texture and taste points of tofu or bean blossoms were all in the grip of experience. The soy milk that has been marinated should be left to a large vat and should not be disturbed or moved.
Good bean blossoms are slightly harder than tofu brains, and it is better to have "flower spots" on the paste. In this way, the pot helmet can be covered without going out of shape. The pot helmet used for bean blossom steamed buns is made of dead noodles, but unlike the lamb steamed pancakes, which are about three or four centimeters thick, and after being burned and cooled, sliced with a large knife, about two millimeters. This kind of pot helmet should not be crispy, otherwise, it will fall away after being soaked in the soup, but it is not as stubborn as the dead noodle cake soaked in lamb, because it does not need to be boiled repeatedly. Nowadays, there are also ways to eat with twist flowers instead of pot helmets, but the soup absorption performance of twist flowers is slightly weaker, which is not very compatible with bean blossoms.
Bean blossom steamed bun belongs to fast food, all the flavors are prepared in advance, easy to operate, and will be ready soon after ordering. The skilled master first grabbed a pot helmet piece and laid it on the bottom of the bowl, scooped the soy milk to soak it, then filtered it out, and then used a wide flat spoon to take the appropriate amount of bean blossoms, covered it on top of the steamed bread, and then scooped a little soy milk with an iron spoon. After the main ingredients are complete, it is the flavor, the main role of the flavor is chili, the oil is poured with a small spoon, you can add a lot of color, next, soybeans, coriander, pickle shreds, etc. are sprinkled one by one, and a bowl of hot bean blossom steamed buns is presented to the table. Nowadays, most restaurants also pair it with two "companions", one is shredded cabbage, pickled in salted water, and served on small plates, and the other is a small bowl of hot soy milk.
When the bean blossom bun comes out of the pot, it is steaming hot, but it is not hot. Before entering, you usually use chopsticks to divide the large pieces of bean blossoms, mix them with chili oil, and then turn over the pot helmet pieces at the bottom of the bowl to make them melt and soak the taste. When eating, you don't use a spoon, and the two main ingredients with different soft and hard flavors will complement each other in the bubble of soy milk. Although the bean blossom is soft, it has toughness, no need to chew, just swallow, after the bubble of the pot helmet piece is soft but with a little tenacity, coupled with crisp cabbage shreds, it is really a double satisfaction of taste and touch.
At present, the bean blossom steamed bun restaurant, the environment is not exquisite enough, the desires of diners are full of bowls, the simple Xifu people are not good at words, a few simple greetings, sincere feelings are in the rice.
Bean blossom steamed buns are suitable for eating in all seasons, especially in winter, with a large pot outside the store, steaming, cloud mountain fog cover, even if you don't need a hanging sign, the locals know the content of the meal.
Walking to the door of the store, the owner usually greets you: sit inside! Let's say: Big bowl! Everything!
This is the tacit understanding of local life.
2016.10 In Mai Yunju
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