Suzhou | Ju Xin Chun (GuanQian Street)
In a week, I went to Leqiao twice to do business, and I also went to the New Year to eat noodles twice.
I haven't been to Jiayufang for a while, and I was going to Go to Yuxing to remember the seasonal three shrimp noodles, or to tongdexing to review the long-lost Fengzhen big meat noodles, but I found the Juxinchun that I hadn't noticed before. Since Pingshui meets, let's go with fate.
It seems that the waiter of the hostess introduced this façade to move in early 2020, but immediately added that it is a long-established brand. To be precise, it was founded in the spring of 1864, and the first chef was called Zhang Xinchun, so it was named "Ju Xinchun".
"Intangible cultural heritage" does not refer to pasta, but to something else
The new address of the old business, the old tree and new branches full of spring light, indeed the interior looks more glamorous, no wonder there was no impression when passing before. However, daring to open a shop in the first-class war zone of pasta in Jiayufang, only history and decoration are not enough, the key is strength.
▲Since I was thinking of three shrimp noodles or large meat noodles, I chose the shrimp stewed meat noodles of the double pouring type when I first visited, and there were shrimp and meat.
Ju Xin Chun mainly promotes two kinds of soups, of which the braised meat noodles are standard with red soup, which is boiled with eel bones, chicken bones, pork bones, snails and other ingredients and a variety of medicinal materials. First drink a mouthful of hot soup to moisten the throat, slightly sweet, the taste is extremely fresh, do not envy the gods.
Stewed meat is almost a must-have in Suzhou's major noodle restaurants, in Tongdexing, Zhu Hongxing, QionglinGe and other shops have experienced, all of them are fat and lean meat in the good products, but the new spring stew is really fat and lean special even, Jingwei is particularly clear, and cut particularly square and beautiful.
According to the video in the store, the stew is cooked in a cedar barrel to remove deodorization and absorb wood aroma, which is the same logic as the book-storing lamb method. Whether it is true or not is not fundamental, but this piece of stewed meat is indeed rich and luscious, and the soft texture is like gelatin. It is not excluded that it is because I have not eaten stewed meat noodles for a while, so I feel that it is particularly delicious, but in Suzhou noodle restaurant, I can't choose the wrong stewed meat, and the "wrong" is also an exception.
Shrimp is not as impressive as stewed meat but also excellent. Although the grains are petite and delicate, the hue is clear, but the umami taste is not bad, and it is not overwhelmed by the fat of the domineering stewed meat.
The first meal was a light meal of "seeing stitches and needles, coming and going in a hurry", not even taking many photos, eating in a hurry, but also eating impressively. A few days later, I went back to Leqiao, but I had more time, and I could loosen my trouser belt for the second meal and kill him.
The second meal of bad chicken noodles, as well as a single (bottom left) vegetarian chicken and (top) tightly fermented steamed buns
▲In addition to the last satisfactory experience, the reason why I brushed the second brush is the second kind of soup promoted by Ju Xinchun - bad soup. I remember that the first time the store introduced this soup is especially suitable for summer choice, so the second time I ordered the standard bad soup is also obviously suitable for bad soup bad chicken noodles.
Rotten chicken noodles contain the bottom of the bad soup noodles
▲The bottom of this bad soup noodle is actually a red soup noodle base mixed with bad brine. Also drink a mouthful of hot soup to moisten the throat, the timeless mellow aroma pervades the original salty and sweet red soup, there is a feeling of immersion in the jelly. Naturally, it is impossible to drink any drunkenness from the bowl, but this bad soup is like a good wine that is not thin or strong, and if there is no strength, it tempts you to continue to taste. Smack your mouth, this soup makes people want to commit "alcohol addiction", drinking can not stop.
Let's pause a little, the bad chicken can't be left out in the cold.
▲The rotten chicken in the small plate is neatly stacked like noodles in a large bowl. I don't know what the selection of ingredients and the steps of pickling and drunkenness are somewhat elaborate, but it is quite delicious, the chicken skin is not greasy when eaten, the chicken meat is refreshing and delicious, and even the gnawing of chicken bones also feels that the cheeks are fragrant, which is really bad.
▲ An extra vegetarian chicken that rhymes with a bad chicken (this logic is not allowed to be questioned). This vegetarian meat-like side dish is not yet fake, but the taste is indeed somewhat similar to the chicken breast meat that just happens to be raw, and the salty and sweet taste is both bean flavor, which is a healthy noodle product.
▲In addition to the bad soup, the reason for the second brush is also the tight yeast steamed bun that is not the intangible cultural heritage of Suzhou City. Also known as oil-soaked tight yeast or Xinglong steamed buns, this special snack is not uncommon in Suzhou, such as the previous taste at Hu Shengxing Noodle Restaurant, but it is certainly rare to be among the ranks of intangible cultural heritage.
The fried clothes on the outside of the steamed bun are not only golden and brilliant, but also blistering significantly. This is the result of "one steaming and three frying", this complex process has many doorways, for example, the first frying needs to be boiled in the steamed buns while heating the pan and heating the oil until the outer skin of the buns is blistered, and then the second and third frying "oil" procedures are to pursue golden color and crispy texture.
The technique is ingenious, the skin is fried dry on the outside and kept moderately moist on the inside, and the dough is not too tight and fluffy because the dough is only mildly fermented (so it is called "tight fermentation"), it will not absorb the soup too much, avoid soaking it softly, and the outer skin is both fragrant and tendonic.
The outer skin of the bun is clearly layered on the inside and outside, and it is not fried thoroughly
The stuffing is also very elaborate. The material is theoretically derived from the lake pigs raised by Taihu lake farmers, which are made by taking their sandwich meat, adding meat skin jelly, and then adding sugar, secret soy sauce and white sesame seeds and other spices. It can be seen that the meat filling is full, the essence is flowing, the juice is sweet and fresh, and this non-heritage steamed bun is indeed extraordinary inside and out.
Steamed buns, toppings, soups, all the best... No wonder I'm not the only repeat customer at the table.
When I first ate noodles, I met a tourist from Beijing at the next table, a family of three. Listen to them chat with the boss, said that in the field has not met Suzhou noodle restaurants have not heard of Gusu noodles, do not know the original so delicious, in Suzhou and Changshu every day to find noodles, but the most favorite to gather the New Year, is the only two brush shop, before leaving also asked whether there is vacuum packaged noodles can be taken away (no).
Who says southern pasta is not to the liking of northerners?
Address: No. 21, Jiayufang, Renmin Road
Phone: 13776104260
Per capita: RMB 38
PS: Search my homepage for cities that interest you, maybe we've been to eat and write about, and it will suit your appetite. L and A are continuously updated ing~
PPS: There is also a mimian zhai not far from Jiayufang, not very traditional, love to play gimmicks, a little expensive, but also delicious ~ ~