Today's spring, in the early morning drifted some snow, turned out an old article about spring cakes.
In recent days, the situation of all people has not been happy. Throughout the Spring Festival, people are either fighting the virus on the front line or self-isolating in anxiety all day long. Countless cities have been locked down by the epidemic, like islands in the sea of ice. Even when it's time to return to work, you still have to reluctantly survive this unprecedented and long vacation that has become unhappy.
At this time, such a fake is at most just brushing the mobile phone, and all the news is only related to the epidemic. How many cases were added on the day of the brush, when the fire god Thor was ready, brushing out a scene of human tragedy, life and death and separation, each story taught people to be sad, and the frustration that followed was suffocating. Under the epidemic, the smallness and powerlessness of ordinary people can only worry, and they can only worry about it, and they have ups and downs in their worries, worrying about others and themselves.
Yesterday, the stock market opened, not surprisingly a miserable green, compared to the red of the cross, it seems to want to use such a pure color to reflect this year's not so full of spring. It is said that in ordinary years, the most sensitive to the season should be the table, and as soon as spring arrives, spring cakes should be served. And this year everyone seems to have become a lot of blunt feeling, yes, the epidemic is the head, life is hanging on the line, hoarding alcohol, snapping up masks, is a first-class big thing.
But the days will pass, and although the evil plague will not know when it will end, it will eventually end. Even if they are anxious to suffocate in the situation of the blockade and the broken road, they can wait day after day with the expectation of life and the attachment to food, until the past is bleak, everything grows, and the luster of the long-standing relationship climbs on our faces again.
A rainy rain that didn't seem to really wake up the season. There seemed to be some huge energy surging under the earth's crust, which had accumulated a winter's cold in the soil and turned into moisture and drove it to the ground. The soil slowly darkened, and the ice gradually melted. It is difficult to see the white mist-like breath when traveling late at night, and the spring in the north seems to be really coming back.
In ordinary days, people always forget about the spring cake shop. It seems that it has really become a simple holiday food, making a companion for mooncakes. And on the right day of Lichun, even if the temperature is still steep, but in the spring cake shop that is usually not so lively, the threshold will almost certainly be flattened, and it is often a person who sits and eats behind the diners who stand and wait for the seat, and the real one is difficult to find. In fact, in the early years, spring cakes were eaten all year round, including but not limited to the beginning of the year. Every day when you are in a good mood and have plenty of time, you can make a table of spring cake rolls as a delicious meal for the family.
Spring cakes have been eaten since the Tang Dynasty, the name is elegant called "spring plate", the great gourmet literary scholar Du Fu wrote in the seven-word poem "Li Chun" "Spring spring plate fine lettuce, suddenly recall the two Beijing plum hair." Plate out of the high door line white jade, dish chuan fiber hand to send green silk. " sentence. In the Song Dynasty, another great gastronomic writer Su Dongpo also wrote in the poem, such as "Gradually feel that the east wind is steep and cold, and the artemisia annua yellow leek tries the spring plate." Such words. Later, eating spring plates was called biting spring, spring and biteable, Wang Zengqi said: "These two words, very beautiful."
In the Ming Dynasty, not only the people bit the spring, but when it came to the day of Lichun, the emperor would also "give the hundred officials spring cake at noon", and eat the spring cake in Lichun to take the meaning of welcoming the new. After eating the spring cake of the state banquet, jiajing nian's official Shangshu Shen Shixing also wrote a poem of thanksgiving: "Zi Chen's court listens to the transmission of the meal, and the jade cake Qiong Qiong dishes out of the big official." The day of fasting has not yet become a three-lord ceremony, and in the early spring, five spice plates are given first. The wind is warm, the snow is melting when the dagger is cold, and the food is accompanied by ten years of empty food, and it is difficult for Jun En to eat a full meal." This level is stronger than "you don't come, I'm fine".
The time is closer, spring cake is more popular, Tang Lusun, Liang Shiqiu, Lao She, these people have also written articles for it. It is said that in the old days, when the northern spring cake was sent to the sauce butcher shop to call a table of smoked sauce, the shop sent someone to deliver it to the home with a large food box. The food box is always indispensable to the sub-grid code on the "stove pork stove duck, smoked chicken sauce meat, pine nut belly, dried meat sausage", these are collectively called assorted assorted Su pan, plus a few plates of vegetarian dishes such as vinegar-cooked mung bean sprouts, vegetarian stir-fried vermicelli, a plate of fresh sauce a few sections of crisp onions, you can "chew according to the case, you can also eat a drenching pain".
Nanpai spring cake is another thing, Lin Yutang wrote about Xiamen spring cake: "The cake should be made of special thin and soft flour, and baked aside." The material is also very exquisite, the pork, dried beans, shrimp, hollandaise beans, winter shoots, shiitake mushrooms and other shredded and diced, fried in a hot pot, and then put in the pot with broth boiling, the heat must be mastered, too dry no juice, not delicious, too wet, the pancake crust will break, too oily is not good, to boil for several hours to be just right. On small plates, flat fish crisps, chili sauce, sweet sauce, tiger moss, coriander, ground peanuts, and neatly cut shallots are placed on the table. ”
Spring cakes are divided into tendon cakes and lotus leaf cakes, which are steamed and lotus leaf cakes are baked. No matter which kind, pay attention to the harmony of kung fu, to be soft and bullety, thin and not broken, you have to be hot and half hot, cold water is slow, the heart is not anxious, not slow, and the rules are very important. Cut the dough up and down, grease the middle and roll out into a cake. In this way, two pages are counted as one, and some people can do three pages a page and uncover them without breaking, that is a master.
Spring cake, size, thickness, soft and hard are all test kung fu, how much oil is used, and the old and tender are exquisite. The heat of the pancake should be pinched and measured, the fire is scorched, and the fire is small and sticky. Under the slight fire, you should also keep an eye on it, as soon as you see the white and tender cake body becomes slightly yellow, the middle of the air drum, you will immediately turn over the noodles, a little bit of burning will become, Zhang Zhang is light and soft, the face is like a full moon, Yuan Mei has to boast "thin as a cicada wing, big as a tea plate, soft and exquisite." To turn out such a cake, you must use your hands, not a spatula, otherwise you will accidentally puncture the cake, and the previous kung fu will be in vain.
The cake baked out of a pound of noodles can be distinguished according to the combined number, and the more the combined number, the thinner the cake, which proves that the chef is more skilled. But it can't be too thin, too thin and easy to break, can't hold the dish, a roll of bread has not been sent to the mouth first sprinkled a body is not considered to be a tribute to the immortal heavens, and not a Mongolian compatriot, back to wash their pants. In fact, spring cakes are best eaten while burning, not too much at a time, three or five people to a dozen or so is enough. The northern climate is dry, and the heat in the house for a long time has dried the side of the cake hard and mouthed.
The cake should be eaten with rolls. Enduring the heat of the hot hand that had just come out of the pot, he trembled and divided the cake into two pieces, and the moment he ripped it open, a steaming steam was intoxicating, in the end, it was for the dishes rolled in the cake. The dishes of the spring cake range from hot stir-fried vegetarian dishes to smoked sauce cooked food, which is rich and thrifty. When it is grand, bacon, elbow flowers, and roast chicken are all available, and they immediately become the first-class banquets of the people's homes. These cold meats or tears or everything must become silk to be good burritos, not greasy, salty and suitable, and the aroma of noodles, sauces, and vegetables are all properly matched.
The most traditional dish in the roll stir-fry is the combination of vegetables, the combination of beans to have bean sprouts, bean sprouts to be mung bean sprouts, pinch the head to tail quickly cook and fry, eat a fresh and crisp. In addition, shredded leeks, celery stir-fried powder and sour and spicy potatoes are served on a large plate. Some exquisite also have to spread an egg, noisily covered on the dish, called the dish cap. There are also eggs scrambled into soft and tender chunks rolled into the cake together to eat, bean sprouts crisp, leeks are fragrant, eggs are tender, the comprehensive effect of taste and taste is immediately in place, good or bad you will add up on your own.
In addition, there is a dish called sour cucumber stir-fried meat shreds, sour and clear mouth, but also can relieve the greasy cold meat, Harbin people eat spring cake is always indispensable to it.
Preparing spring cakes is complicated, rolling spring cakes are not simple, first of all, you can't be timid, each dish is only sandwiched with so many sticks, rolled out loose and collapsed, soft and weak, a bite down only the cake flavor, no vegetable meat aroma, disappointment; but also can not be greedy, the sample dishes are sandwiched with a big chopsticks, either can not roll up, or the cake is broken, or a cake barely forced to hold a variety of dishes, doggy to the mouth, not the destination, scattered flowers, vegetables sprinkled, sauce flowing a hand, bad heart.
A roll of perfect spring cakes, cake and dish balance is one of the key: a pancake from the middle of the perfect separation, flat on the plate, spread sauce sprinkled onion, and then according to the taste to pick up cold meat heated vegetables, the scale of the dish is all based on the size and elasticity of the cake to pinch, collocation is very critical, how to put open also exquisite, smooth horizontal and vertical, tension and degree, men's burrito left pressure right, women's burrito right pressure left, two ends folded inward, rolled into a column, a bite, cake beet aroma, meat in the vegetarian, green onion like a breeze, sauce like manna, hundred rivers and nakou, sublimated everything. A few rolls down the belly and ask you what is happiness? Enjoying food calmly and laxly in the spring, that is.
When the real spring blossoms, everything will disappear, and I hope that we can make up for ourselves with two rolls of spring cakes full of hope, so as to get rid of evil and be stained with joy. Of course, if the amount of food is large, ten volumes and eight volumes are not a problem.
Author: call me Max
Source: Pre-final set