Qianjiang Evening News - Hourly News Reporter Zheng Jianjin \ Wen Wu Xiapan \ Photo Some of the pictures and videos were provided by the interviewees
"Come, let's take a look at the difference between these two teas?" Now I brew it with the same grams of boiling water at the same temperature, and you can taste the difference in taste. "Two identical lid bowls, each bowl into the 2.5 grams of Longjing tea leaves that the naked eye can hardly distinguish, 100 degrees of boiling mountain spring water along the bowl wall rushed into the lid bowl, the original slender and flat leaves suddenly stretched out, about 3-5 seconds later, filtered out the tea soup, the color is almost transparent.
On March 19, at No. 86 Xiamanjuelong, West Lake District, Tang Xiaojun, the king of stir-fried tea in West Lake Longjing, was demonstrating for Qianbao reporters the difference between taste, aroma and tea soup after eight boiling water bubbles in West Lake Longjing in different production areas.
Whether the tea is brewed or not is clear
After boiling water has been soaked for eight times, the leaves of the West Lake Longjing are still firm
The weather in Hangzhou these days is not good, it is cold and humid, and it rains almost every day. 500 meters along Manjuelong Road, the car window is full of bustling traffic, and many tea farmers have set up large iron pots in front of their homes to stir-fry Longjing tea on the spot. In the distance is a tea garden full of greenery, with a moist delicacy, but also has a unique gentle freshness in the Jiangnan area.
The staff told me that Teacher Tang had been roasting tea all night the day before, and he didn't go to bed until dawn, so he had to wait a little. Looking around, all kinds of colors, different shapes of lid bowls, as well as various awards, trophies, it seems that Teacher Tang's top position in the industry is stable.
Dressed in a pair of green cloth clothes, flat head, tough and straight posture, sit down and go straight to the subject. "We talk casually, like friends. Today I will brew you two kinds of Longjing tea leaves, they come from different production areas, you see, smell, taste, where the difference is. ”
From the naked eye alone, the tea leaves in the two tea trays are almost identical in appearance and color, except that the leaves on the left are tighter and flatter, and the leaves on the right have folds and textures. Put 2.5 grams of tea leaves in two identical lid bowls, brew 100 degrees of mountain spring boiling water for 5 seconds, and then pour into the glass synchronously. At a cursory glance, there is not much difference, almost transparent tea soup, it must be said that the difference, that is, the color of the tea soup on the left is slightly yellowed." You smell it before you taste it. The money newspaper reporter opened the two cup lids and smelled them separately, and the aroma in the bowl on the right cover was more thick, and it was a shallow taste, the left one was slightly bitter, and the right one was lighter.
Next, the second bubble. The bitterness of the tea soup on the left is aggravated, while the sweetness on the right is somewhat sweet. "You will taste the third bubble later, and the difference between the third bubble will be more obvious." Sure enough, the third brewed tea soup can be seen by the naked eye, the left side is cloudy, the right side is clear; on the taste, the left side is still bitter, and the right side is unusually sweet.
"Whether the tea is good or not, the brewing is clear." The tea leaves with good raw materials in the process are quick to return to sweetness, and the floral fragrance is rich, mellow and smooth; if the process and raw materials are general, the taste is bitter and astringent. This explains the difference between the processing technology, the mountain field of fresh leaf raw materials, the different grades, creating a tea with different grades. Tang Xiaojun told the Qianbao reporter, "Many people say that green tea is not good for the stomach, and it will also cause trouble, in fact, the processing technology of tea is not in place, and it is not done thoroughly." Good tea is exactly what helps to condition the stomach. ”
By the seventh brew, the tea leaves on the left were already light and tasteless; the tea soup on the right was getting sweeter and sweeter. "In fact, the tea production area, raw materials and processing technology on the left are already in the top product, but there is still a difference between longjing and the core production area of pure hand frying." You see, the tea color of the tea on the left becomes green, and the tea leaves float on the surface, indicating that the tea base of the cup on the right is not completely fried; while the tea bottom of the cup on the right is yellow and bright, and each tea bud is naturally stretched and blooms at the bottom of the lid bowl, and the phrase 'good tea is not afraid of boiling water bubbles' is extremely appropriately used in the West Lake Longjing. ”
After eight bubbles, Tang Xiaojun took out the tea leaves in the left lid bowl, and the leaves were softly pulled on his hands; after taking out the tea leaves in the right lid bowl, the buds and leaves were still upright and firm, maintaining the activity and color of fresh leaves.
4 and a half pounds of green leaves are made into 1 pound of finished tea
Good mountain field of handmade Mingqian West Lake Shifeng Longjing 1--60,000 yuan a pound
Tang Xiaojun's tea garden, located in the mountains behind the White Crane Peak of Manjuelong, was located in the early years when others changed to longjing 43, which was born early and had a high yield, he still insisted on retaining the native species of the West Lake Longjing group in these 20 or 30 acres of tea gardens.
"A good West Lake Longjing, raw materials and processes are indispensable, only a good mountain field and good technology, in order to make a good West Lake Longjing." The key to forming the unique quality and aroma of West Lake Longjing tea, in addition to tea varieties, environmental climate and other elements, soil and fertilizer are more critical. In the words of our industry, the soil quality of the tea garden is most generally red mud, and the superior is the white English sand weathered rock sandstone. Tang Xiaojun told the Qianbao reporter, "And the soil of Baihefeng is the white sand sand weathered sandstone, and the tea grown from the white quartz sand weathered sandstone is the most superior quality." ”
It is also the lion name that people are familiar with - Shifeng Longjing.
This year's picking of green leaves is about ten days earlier than last year, and the large-scale picking of No. 43 Longjing in West Lake is in these two days. "This year's West Lake Longjing tea growth trend and previous years are still relatively large differences, at present, not the sun directly hit the block of tea but grow better." The top bud of the head stubble is a small amount, and a pound of West Lake Longjing generally needs about 4.5 pounds of green leaves. From green leaf picking, fresh leaf stalling, green killing, sieving, tide return, glow pot, sieve, long head, pile, ash collection, etc., each process is exquisite, stir-fry a pound of dry tea, all handmade, it takes about 8 hours. Tang Xiaojun said.
Across the road, in Tang Xiaojun's tea making room, 12 shiny stir-frying tea pots were arranged in two rows, and the staff was busy working separately. "The amount of raw materials has not come up in the past two days, and there is just a little bit of Aoba left, so I will show you." A grasp, a shake, a pinch, a ride, just now is still a large piece of fresh leaves, has become a smooth, straight, beautiful and vitality of Longjing tea prototype.
"Longjing tea is touched by the hand piece by piece, and the tea master raises his hand to see the real chapter." You put your hands on the pot to feel it, the temperature of the pot is now about 200 degrees, when the green is 260 degrees, the gesture is not right, it is easy to burn the blisters. You see, I now have red dots on my hands, because I have a thick layer of cocoon 'protective body' because of the perennial roasting of tea, and when the apprentices first learned, they often had their hands full of bubbles. "The Qianbao reporter took a closer look, and Tang Xiaojun's two thick palms were covered with calluses."
Hand-made tea is not only technically difficult, but also requires excellent physical strength, and it is normal to be unobtrusive for several days and nights when it is busiest. "Many guests want to get my handmade tea early, in fact, spring tea is really better than good." For example, the group planting picking is late, and my tea leaves are put into the limetray after frying to 'collect the ash' for 7-15 days before handing it over to the customer, so it is normal to get the tea after the Qingming Festival. Tang Xiaojun said that the West Lake Longjing did not have the term Mingqian tea before, but the West Lake Longjing after the head wave bud that specifically referred to the "Mingqian top bud is as expensive as gold" will be piled up in April and only started to be sold after grading in May. Therefore, drink tea do not blindly seek early, buy the right tea, drink the right tea is really beneficial to the health.
Speaking of the price of tea before the Ming Dynasty this year, Tang Xiaojun said that it is similar to previous years, and the basic price range is generally between 10,000-60,000 yuan per kilogram.
The tea made by people with good character is righteous
Retain some special grade spring tea to be added to the autumn kiln osmanthus Longjing
In the core production area of Longjing in the whole West Lake, there are two hills belonging to the lion name, one is Lion Peak and the other is White Crane Peak. These two hills are the top of the first-class tribute tea production area, as the first of the top ten famous teas, Tang Xiaojun insists on passing on this skill with the handicraft inherited by the old predecessors.
When the Qianbao reporter interviewed, he pushed the door in and came in a tea guest, Mr. Wang, from Liaoning. After taking a seat, we tasted two longjing teas from the first and second production areas together. "I just passed by the sliding door and came in, and I didn't expect to have the privilege of learning the craftsman spirit of Teacher Tang." Tang Xiaojun said, 'I really like to make tea, I just want to make tea, I used to be a physical education teacher, I want to have the most basic teacher morality.' Mr. Wang was moved, "Today I really gained a lot, drank good tea, and also saw what is really a tea maker." ”
"Since making tea, my original intention has not changed in the past few decades, and my friends have laughed that this is a sweet poison, because after drinking good tea, I really can't accept other teas." Ten years before I started making tea, I was more stubborn, and as soon as I heard that the father's tea in the village was fried well, I immediately rushed over; whose son's tea was well received by the guests, no matter how late I would knock on the door. Slowly figured it out, if you want to fry the tea, the pot, gestures, heart, character, all are indispensable.
To make tea, we must first do a good job of people, and the tea made by people with good character can be full of righteousness. "Stir-frying tea is very boring, and I often encourage my apprentices to try to make roasting tea a pleasure. To make private tea, the person who understands is Bole, and the niche tea belongs to the top of the pyramid, which should be given to people who really understand tea or love tea. ”
After about 40 days of busy work from the beginning of March, Tang Xiaojun will go to Yunnan, Fujian, Anhui and other places to exchange skills with his peers. "Although the origin is different and the tea varieties are different, the principle of making tea is common, and for decades, we are all learning together and making progress together."
Every year after the autumn, Tang Xiaojun will also use the special grade and first-class tea reserved in the spring to make some osmanthus Longjing. "I have osmanthus trees in my own home, and these osmanthus trees are more than two hundred years old. Go up the mountain at two or three o'clock in the morning to pick the slightly blooming osmanthus flowers, the best of the osmanthus flowers is sandalwood cinnamon, which has thick petals, mellow aroma and positive color. When doing it, the osmanthus flowers should be wrapped up and prepared first, and then mixed with longjing tea leaves after three or five days, wrapped tightly with soil paper and then put into the limetra for two weeks to twenty days, during which the osmanthus flowers should be added continuously, and it should be replaced about 6 times. ”
Tang Xiaojun said that when the sweet floral fragrance of the old tree osmanthus flowers is integrated with the unique sweetness of Longjing, no matter the taste, the degree of integration of the aroma and the mellow thickness of the tea soup are absolute. "Good green tea is something full of treasures."
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Source: Qianjiang Evening News Hourly News